Hot off the Presses: second edition NYT 36 Hours USA (with three stories by me)

amazon51wDt3y14iL._AA160_The second edition of the New York Times’ 36 Hours in USA and Canada guidebook just came out ( I just received my complimentary copy in the mail) and  it includes three stories I originally wrote – that have since been updated. I had two stories in the first edition. What was added? Des Moines – I’m pleased to report!

I’ve long used these pieces when I go on three-day weekends around the USA – and as the starting point for longer trips. I’ve also used the 36 Hours pieces written about foreign lands – most recently the one on Rome.

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Ebola and the High Line and me

It turns out that I was walking in NYC along the High Line and took the 1 subway line north to 108 street almost exactly 24 hours before the young doctor who is now in a hospital with Ebola. He’s also from my home state of Michigan, in another Detroit suburb near mine…grosse pointe as it turns out. It is strange how close this horrible epidemic is getting to us all and hard to know what to think. I did get a flu shot today. I hope the young doctor is okay. He sounds like an amazing person.

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High Line and Nutty end of day thanks to delta airlines

New High Line sectionSo by midday I had already received a text from delta that my 7:30 pm flight to Des Moines from LaGuardia was delayed til 8:00. By 1:26 or so it was now leaving at 9:30 pm so I leisurely sauntered along the new section of the High Line down to Chelsea Market at 15th street, ready to eat a leisurely late lunch. But no, another text at 4:19 pm had arrived. I figured it was another delay or even a cancellation. But no, the flight was now leaving at 7:35 again. at first I thought I’d read a previous text but I called to check with delta and sure enough, the flight was back on time. And I was late. I rushed out of the market, hustled over to the subway and made it back to 108 th and riverside drive  at 5:15, grabbed my bag, skipped my plan to take the m60 bus to the airport and jumped in a cab.

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Just my luck I had a newbie driver who took me to the wrong terminal but eventually I made it with time to spare and we will see if this does in fact leave on time.  This appears to be a new or revamped terminal, with much improved food, New LaGuardia 2fress iPads for use everywhere and lots of plugs to recharge all our gizmos. Now if they could just get the flight notification process under control. And the flights to leave on time. At 7:15 came a development that does not surprise me at all. our flight is now delayed until 8:15. We have a plane but no pilots. Post Script: we finally left the gate around 8:30 and the tarmac about 9 p.m.

 

The new LaGuardia

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Fall in beautiful Salt Point, NY

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Cafe le perche for brunch in Hudson New York, Mutsu apples everywhere!!

Lovely day in the Hudson Valley with my old friends from London. We are staying at M’s gorgeous 1820’s eyebrow colonial farmhouse full of antiques, cozy couches, artwork and great food and drink set on a hill overlooking forty acres and beyond of red, yellow, orange leaves blanketed rolling mountains.

Today we drove about an hour north from Salt Point to Hudson, NY, stopping en route for some Mutsu apples, my favorite at one of many fruit and veg stAnds. Hudson was, as billed, a hipster haven full of NYC types and old storefronts filled with shops – antiques, boutiques, high design furniture, clothing, cosmetics, Turkish ceramics, you name it. we had a good brunch (yes brunch) at Cafe Le Perch (excellent locally sourced eggs, bacon, home baked bread).

We are having a very relaxing girls weekend, five friends who all worked together in London in the early 1980s, two of us Brits still in living in London, three yanks (in NYC, Tucson, and Des Moines). My flight in on Thursday took an unexpected turn…we ended up being diverted to Allentown, Pennsylvania after we ran out of fuel, allegedly, circling over LaGuardia which was messed up due to bad weather. Fortunately we only stayed briefly on the Tarmac in Allentown then flew back and landed in a suddenly sunny NYC.
Circling over

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In honor of the KC Royals– recalling when I met George Brett 25 years ago

Since the Royals are in the World Series for the first time since 1985, it’s time to share again my chance encounter in about 1989 with Royals Hall of Famer George Brett at the old now demolished Stroud’s road house in KC, MO.

To be honest, I didn’t know who George was but my husband filled me in after spotting him waiting in a crowd alongside us mere mortals for a table at Stroud’s (where the fried chicken was so good people were willing to wait for hours to eat it since the old place didn’t take reservations. Nor does the newer Stroud’s.)

Brett, for the uninitiated, was Kansas City’s best ever player (my husband reminds me of this today) and a key factor in the Royals last World Series win (in 1985.) So we were sitting next to a little boy, about age 8, who was staring at George in amazement. Awestruck. His mom was encouraging him to ask George for his autograph but the kid couldn’t do it. (In this day and age, he’d be asking George to take a selfie with him.) So I said I’d ask George and sidled over to where George was talking to several attractive blond women. He seemed uninspired when I mentioned the little awestruck boy and didn’t provide an autograph. “Jerk,” I thought as I returned to the kid empty handed.

But a short time later, as the little boy and mom were being led to their table, the boy left his jacket behind on his seat by mistake. “Son. hey son,” George called out to him. “Here’s your jacket.” And he handed it to him. The boy looked like he’d won the lottery. “Not a jerk,” I thought, revising my opinion of George Brett.

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Where to eat in Philly – Zahav!

I’ve been recommending this restaurant for about five years, ever since my son and I ate there during a college visit trip (and my son has since graduated from college) but I can never remember the name. So I’m posting it here for safekeeping (and because my stepdaughter, who is going on a weekend trip to Philly, asked for specifics.)

The restaurant is Zahav, serving Israeli/Middle Eastern fare, somewhat expensive as I recall but it looks like there’s some offshoots that may be less pricy.
See http://www.zahavrestaurant.com/ and for the interesting backstory about back story about how the chef had a drug issue see:  http://articles.philly.com/2014-08-13/news/52732976_1_zahav-philly-chef-chef-michael-solomonov

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Nothing wrong with brunch – especially at M. Henry in Chicago’s Andersonville neighborhood

I was surprised and irritated by the silly anti-brunch diatribe in yesterday’s NYTimes Brunch is for Jerks which I read a day after having an excellent brunch at M. Henry, a cheerful restaurant in Chicago’s Andersonville. Talk about a first world issue. (It was the writer who sounded like a jerk.)

There were a few people waiting outside M.Henry when we arrived around 1:30 p.m. (after long drive from Iowa to Andersonville to see our son’s new apartment there) but we were whisked off to a table in a few minutes. The brunch (or was it lunch?) menu had lots of good-sounding egg and starch (french toast, waffles) options. N. and I had a delicious fried-egg sandwich (eggs, bacon, gorgonzola on crispy country-style bread served with perfectly roasted and seasoned — and hot —  potatoes); D had an interesting Mexican egg dish with bean cakes and R. had a vegan stir-fry. The place was packed but plenty of elbow-room in a cheerfully decorated space and good service. We’ll return – NYTimes diatribe notwithstanding.

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Iowa after Italy

it’s been almost a week since we returned from Italy to Des Moines and now we are barreling down Interstate 80 en route to Chicago and Iowa in autumn is beautiful. Not Amalfi Coast, Mediterranean Sea, Aeolian Islands, Siricusa, Rome beautiful but still Beautiful.
At 7 am, just east of Des Moines, the white grey frost clung to rolling fields of rust colored corn almost ready for harvest and green grass, punctuated by the occasional pristine white farmhouse, worn barn, grazing cows and horses. Sure there were occasional garish billboards and the metal sheds of industrial ag but they were easy to overlook.
A few thoughts/lessons learned/reflections/things to remember for next time From our two glorious weeks in Italy:
— Places to spend more time next time: Naples, Catania
— New places to go: Matera, Puglia
— In the future when flying budget airlines like Ryan air and easy jet advance-pay luggage fees. Even our small bags were not small enough and the fee to check them was almost as much if not more than the flight (which was pretty darn cheap, under $50 but still.) Advance pay is cheaper than paying at the airport (which also takes time.)
— while we are on the topic of advance pay, booking train tix online in advance was cheaper (judging from some of our fellow passengers accounts of their tix price) although not necessary.
— Go to the Amalfi coast off season , which late September apparently was not.
— Remember that many a little b&b prefers to be paid in cash (or does not even accept credit cards) which can require a little advance planning since we could only take out 250 euros per day from an ATM.
— we saw people along the way who looked like: Robert Morley (complete with the plummy British voice), Mr Magoo, Peter Postelwaite, Cecily Strong, our friend Jamie.
— Favorite fellow travelers: Canadians from Winnipeg and Toronto, Sweet boys from Berlin, a funny gay couple from Covent Garden, another nice Berlin couple and a funny Australian couple, the dishy Italian church vestments salesman from Naples and a nice Croatian graduate student whose dissertation compares Julius Caesar’s selling of his Gaul campaign to the US presidents Selling of Vietnam and Iraq invasions.
– surprised that we encountered few americans but the few we did meet were surprising including a Vermont couple in their 60s who spent time (presumably in the 60s) on a commune in the northeast Iowa town of Decorah (one of our favorites, which we recently visited.)
– Interesting/favorite hosts- Vivien, the beautiful former Milan runway model now running an agritourismo is southern sicily; Teresa, our warm hostess in Catania, Diana Brown the plucky South African in Lipari. Good management at our first hotel in Rome, less so our second.
– best meal: hard to say maybe the Kasbah in Lipari, the Ravello restaurant, the famous salumeria in Rome, the pasta on the island of Panacea (that whole day boating around the aeolian islands was golden).
– worst meal: none.

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Return to Rome: street food, shopping, weather, sights

When we were here two weeks ago, I walked until my feet were blistered. This time my feet are battle hardened but my calves ache so badly they feel bruised. but I do not regret walking myself silly today, all over this city. And we will probably walk some more tonight because who can resist? The beauty of this city is irresistible.
We returned to an area we visited last week, in the central Storico and this time went to the less formal bakery of the salumeria we ate at last week — Roscioli il Forno where we had superb pizza slices served over the counter by a guy who hacks away at the pizzas with an exuberant chop. We had some pizza slathered with pesto and anchovies and tomato sauce; and another piece with ricotta, grilled eggplant, basil, tomato sauce. The place was packed for good reason! Up the street, I splurged on an amazing handmade leather purse, sold to me by a young woman who makes the purses with her father at a shop called Ibiz (via dei chiavari 39 ) I thought she might know a good tie maker and so she did, a nice craftsman in a little shop in Trastevere called La Cravatta (via di s. cecilia 12) near our first hotel (that we never noticed). Dirck got a beautiful tie. His splurge.

my new friend, the purse maker, also told us how to get to the neighborhood of Monti, which was a lovely walk that began in the former Jewish ghetto which still has kosher restaurants and a gorgeous synagogue which was packed (and this is how I learned it was Yom Kippur, my bad.) We had fun rambling around Monti, looking at the smattering of small boutiques and design shops around via Urbana, stopping for a fruit smoothy at a place called The Full Monti (get it?) and at an organic gelato shop. We are staying tonight at Villa della fonte near the Santa Maria Transtevere church. More expensive and may be noisier tonight but the place we stayed at last week was booked.tonight we had a totally new Roman dining experience featuring food that seemed more English than Italian but the battered cod fillets served at Dar Filettaro, a little hole in the wall, were selling like hot cakes all night, primarily to large Italian families who ordered plates of the fish piled high along with plates of fried zucchini and white beans. The cod was too salty for me but the batter was hot and crispy and the scene itself was delicious. We finished the night with some granita and wandered through centro Storico and Trastevere on a perfect Saturday night, the sky bright and clear, light breeze, amazed by all the people everywhere and the street performers and the great circus of Rome. We will be back!

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