Category Archives: Ithaca

Sew Green, Moosewood, Simply Cookie’s Kitchen at former Wells College – Ithaca my Ithaca!

We rarely went to the famous Moosewood Cafe when we were Cornell students: too far from campus and too pricey. But we all had the cookbook, of course. We had a lovely lunch there. I had a Peruvian Stew that was excellent.

@ Simply Cookie’s

We also had more luck at Sew Green downtown which resells gently used Eileen Fisher clothing. We hoped to get to two other places downtown — odyssey bookstore and Found, antiques —but ran out of time. Same with Food Lab, an interesting looking restaurant downtown.

Dinner was at the golf course up on a hill behind the now defunct Wells College in Aurora, with hearty home cooked meals by a chef named Cookie. Hence the name: Simply Cookie’s Kitchen. Excellent burgers, fries, brisket bowls and quiche.

Dirck and Mike enjoyed the Sims-Jennings Preserve at Cayuga Cliffs, near the cottage, which has an almost 2 mile trail through meadow, woods, waterfalls and gorges. Next trip! Our favorite place was the new porch at our friend’s new improved cottage on Cayuga Lake. A mesmerizing view before and even more so now.

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Sundries, Ice Cream Bar, Taughanock Falls State park overlook – in and around Trumansburg, NY

Visiting Taughanock Falls never gets old. Always stunning to see the water shooting down, down, down between a split in the rocky gorge.

@Taughanock Falls

In nearby Trumansburg, we shopped at Sundries, a favorite store with well-chosen clothing, pottery, home-goods, jewelry, cards.

And we discovered Ice Cream Bar, half ice cream outdoor stand, half outdoor bar with alcohol. We went for the ice cream!

Ice cream at last

Dinner tonight got was at Salt Point Brewery in Lansing, with delicious thin crust pizza and Caesar salad.

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Watkins Glen, grist iron brewery, lively Run — in and around Seneca Lake

The waterfalls at Watkins Glen were running full as we trekked along the gorge trail, thanks to the recent rains and the views were as spectacular as ever, although the trail was wet and somewhat slippery. We parked at the main entrance which proved to be more convenient than the south entrance. We did the north rim trail back which was fine except at the end when there were lots of steps going downhill.

Lunch was at Grist Iron brewery, yet another brew pub that has popped up along the east side of Seneca Lake. Great views, decent food (bbq brisket, pulled pork, steak sandwiches. Then we drove east to the western shore of Cayuga lake to get some award-winning cheese at Lively Run.

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Shake shack (NYState thruway @ Angola, dog park & cheap gas (loves over the Ohio border on I90- heading home from NY

This time there really was a shake shack in an unlikely spot – the I-90 rest stop in Angola, NY. About 20 years ago I thought I’d found a shake shack outside Kansas City. But when we got to Overland Park we found a snack shack. Oh well. (My family has teased me about this ever since.)

I’m sure the KC plaza has the real deal now! And so does the rest stop literally over the NY state thruway in Angola. The burgers were great, as always, but the small outdoor eating area could have used some shade or umbrellas or a little fake grass. Millie took shelter under the picnic table, while we sweltered in the summer sun.

We waited until we crossed the Ohio line to get gas and were rewarded with $2.96 per gallon gas and a shady (!) fenced in dog park. Thank you Love’s!

Cottage “before” pic

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Ithaca Falls/Fall Creek Gorge, soft serve at cream at the Top, pavement @Ithaca Farmers Mkt — Ithaca

How I never made it to Ithaca Falls, part of Fall Creek Gorge, during 50-some years of visiting Ithaca I don’t know but two days ago, our friends suggested it in lieu of hiking up Cascadilla falls gorge on a muggy July day. Great option! We parked just south of Cornell’s campus and took an east short walk to the huge falls. I needed one more gorge visit before we left and this was perfect.

I’ve always had trouble remembering which falls belongs to which of the two gorges that run through campus. Ithaca falls is part of Fall creek Gorge, just below the Stewart Avenue bridge which is below the suspension bridge and then Beebe lake to Forest Home. (Next trip: check out the rim trail!) The second gorge, Cascadilla, connects downtown to collegetown.

From AI:

In essence:

  • Fall Creek Gorge is larger, with a more expansive feel and multiple waterfalls, including the impressive Ithaca Falls. 
  • Cascadilla Gorge is a more intimate experience, with a well-defined trail that allows for a closer look at the creek and its waterfalls as it winds through the gorge. 

We did a quick spin around the Ithaca Farmers market’s semi- open air pavilion, picking up some sugar snaps and trying to resist the heirloom tomatoes (since we’re driving home right now). Yes, the rough gravel parking lot has been replaced by pavement, losing some hippie scruffiness and gaining some boho practicality.

For our final (and third) visit this trip to Cream at the Top, our favorite ice cream stand, miraculously carved into a cornfield in Lansing, we shifted from our favorite hard ice cream flavors (white lightening, queen of hearts, grasshopper pie, Michigan pothole, Rush hour) to soft serve chocolate dipped in chocolate. Big decision and good call. It was so creamy I could swear it was frozen custard. We’ll be back.

Cottage sunset

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Antique boats, rollercoaster roads, Doug’s fish fry – to Skaneateles and back

What a tricky name to spell and province but Skaneateles is as pretty as I remember from our last visit here, some 25 years ago. I forgot it’s only a 50 minute drive from “the cottage” (our friends’ place in Lansing/king Ferry).

We had fried fish but also a shrimp po boy and lobster roll at Doug’s fish fry, a local haunt with a much-appreciated picnic area perfect for our dog (and us) with picnic tables and umbrellas for shade in a enclosed picnic area with a green lawn bordered by pretty flowers.

The village feels much more well-heeled and touristy than Ithaca, with well preserved old buildings all my Main street and upscale gift shops and a pretty old inn overlooking Skaneateles Lake. The lakefront park is charming, as I remembered, with a dock where an old fashioned cruise boat takes visitors out onto the narrow finger lake. There happened to be a vintage boat show, with shiny wood boats as old as the early 1900s.

We did a loop drive, coming up the west side of owasca lake and returning by driving along the east side, both pretty routes through emerald green farm fields, narrow rollercoaster roads up and down the hills, past worn farmhouses, dairy farms, and small old towns.

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Hike from upper Treman, Tuesdays at taughanock – Return to Ithaca

Our near-annual trip to Ithaca (thank you Myra and Mike) has produced a few discoveries to share:

The parking is free at state parks here for people age 62 and over. Alas I did not discover this until age 66 (now) and have dutifully shelled out $10 at parks including our favorite, Treman which has a gorgeous trail hugging a gorge.

The money shot at Upper Treman

A ranger also told us that when we use the pay machine (in lieu of a ranger) we can scan our license with our birthdate to get free parking.

Tuesdays at Taughanock is a summer music series on the patio of the charming inn at Taughanock falls, which I first went to for dinner with my parents as a kid. (When it was as the Taughanock farms inn.) It sits high above Cayuga waters (not as high as Cornell to the east). $20 gets you a large burger, chips and a beer or glass of wine, plus the music, in this case a low-key performance by singer Annie Burns, of Burns sisters fame (a popular local group we last saw maybe 20 years ago.)

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Ithaca is Gorges @ Robert H. Treman State Park, Cascadilla Gorge, Fall Creek Taughannock Falls

At upper Treman

I love a good gorge and this part of the world (the Finger Lakes) is full of them. In and around Ithaca, my favorite is to walk from upper to lower Treman, much of it along stone paths, steps and bridges along the gorge, with water crashing down on mossy-stones, through the sun-dappled forest.

Taughannock Falls

The light, sun, breeze, sound is dazzling and reminds me of my parents who love/loved these gorges too. Fall Creek Gorge is also a stunner, especially as seen while crossing over the suspension bridge high above, but the views are obscured by the metal netting, a sad necessity to discourage suicidal jumpers.

Our final gorge of the trip was the big Kahuna — Taughannock Falls, which is the highest in the area and, word has it, taller than Niagara (albeit with much less volume.)

At Cascadilla

For old time’s sake, we ate nearby on the west shore of Cayuga Lake at Glenwood Pines, in a knotty pine-walled dining room with big windows looking out at the occasional white sailboat gliding through the blue water and the wooded sloping shore beyond, on Cayuga’s east shore. Excellent “pines burger” but sadly the Ithaca Times restaurant review I wrote in 1980 was no longer tacked up on the wall. It was still there about 25 years ago when we last visited., to my amusement. The kids were impressed as I recall.

Suspension bridge over Fall Creek Gorge

Next time, we’ll try to spend more time at Ithaca Falls on Lake Street below Fall Creek gorge on campus. — and hike the Risley Trail (behind Risley Hall on North Campus) to the bottom of Fall Creek.

This trip, we also missed Flat Rock, the rushing water over, yes, flat rocks, in the tiny hamlet of Forest Home, and The spectacular Watkins Glenn.

Cascadilla

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New and old favs in Ithaca – East Shore Road House (breakfast!) and Johnson Museum/dairy Barn (Cornell) and old favs: Ithaca bakery, Greenstar, lake time, Ithaca beer, the commons, Salt Point Brewery

We had a rare (for this visit) rainy day, which fortunately didn’t last long but with the temperature suddenly fallish (60s, not 70s or 80s) we did some indoor activities, starting with brunch at the terrific East Shore Road House in Lansing. Local food producers, husband-and-wife operation, creative entries, cheerful service, short wait on a Saturday. Perfect.

Next stop the Cornell campus to go to the Johnson Museum, designed by IM Pei. Haven’t been there in decades.

On the arts quad

I didn’t remember the top/fifth floor with its long glass windows affording spectacular views of Cayuga Lake, the valley, Cornell campus and a classic tempestuous Ithaca sky. Another favorite was the second floor outdoor deck with a long, sloping, zero-gravity wood bench where we laid down and looked up at the ceiling dotted with flashing little lights, like stars in the night sky – an LED art installation.

Watching the stars (installation)

We walked around the campus, across the suspension bridge high above Fall Creek Gorge. We saw lots of unfamiliar new modern buildings on campus in addition to the old favorites — The Straight (student Union), Goldwin Smith Hall, McGraw Hall (history). Final on campus stop: the dairy barn (which isn’t a barn any more) for Cornell ice cream! Perfect.

East Shore Road House

Yesterday was lunch outdoors at the edge of a cornfield at Ithaca Beer Co. where I had a “Cornell chicken” sandwich…apparently Cornell chicken is a thing (cider vinegar and an egg are main ingredients) and I found the recipe on Epicurious. The day before was sandwiches from Ithaca bakery, grocery shopping at Green Star Market, and a quick stroll around the Ithaca Commons downtown (which sadly has little to offer.) we also had good pizza at Salt Point Brewery in South Lansing, which closes pretty early (9 pm) on a Saturday night, at least by Chicago standards.

At Johnson Museum

And of course, a highlight was another late afternoon swim at “the lake.” Millie our pup is a fan of the water too.

The Long View at the top of Johnson Art Museum.

At the straight

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Eating and drinking our way around Seneca And Cayuga Lakes

Gorgeous weather, perfect for a Finger Lakes food and drink crawl, starting with Apples and Moore which was as miserly as I remembered, with no samples to determine if you wanted to buy a huge bag of apples – the only option available in the shop. (Also, dog-unfriendly. Theyallowed out of the car despite the ample grounds.)

But we learned that if we picked our own, we could sample a few varieties. Our favorites weren’t readily available. (It’s too early for the fabulous snapdragon apple I discovered two years ago. It’s available in late September.) We did enjoy some delicous apple cider donuts and the glorious view of orchards dotted with red apples and the lake valley in the distance.

Finger Lakes Cider House

Next stop: Two Goats Brewery, on the east side Seneca Lake, which has a phenomenal view of the lake and valley beyond. We had roast beef sandwiches with mayo and horseradish on a chewy roll, and Golden Crush hazy IPA. then onto my favorite spot – Finger Lakes Cider House which is between the two lakes in another gorgeous spot, with a cut flower operation, a good gift shop, excellent food, friendly and dog-welcoming staff. We had a house flight cider, with our favs: honeyoye and fruit of the bloom.And a cheese board of Lively Run Cheeses, also local (and a place we’ve visited on the crawl in the past.)

At Two Goats

Last stop, Trumansburg, a quick stop at our favorite shop Sundrees and then on to the Wednesday night farmers market, which is refreshingly low-key and counter culture.(Word has it the Ithaca Farmers Market has become too popular, leading to weekend traffic jams.) In T-burg, a bluegrass band played inside a red-topped wooden gazebo, while a food truck sold mean-looking fried chicken, and other vendors sold exotic garlic varieties, fancy slices of cake, excellent focaccia, late season tomatoes and basil.

Trumansburg farmers market

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