Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

red rocks and historic site @ Jemez Springs, Valles caldera, Los Alamos, cafe Pasqual’s & Santa Fe

Not Los Alamos
Not Los Alamos

I’d never been to a city that requires drivers to pass through a security check and show their driver’s license but now I have….outside Los Alamos. Not surprising given its the home of the atomic bomb and today, a national research lab focused on national security and “nuclear stockpile stewardship.” The guy at the security check post told not to turn right as we drove into town because that could be a possible security breach. Okey doke. Los Alamos seemed utterly ordinary after that, at least on the surface, as we drove through.

Not Los Alamos (again)

We preferred to spend our time elsewhere, taking a very scenic drive to Los Alamos from ABQ, stopping several times. In Jemez Springs, we visited the local historic site: the ruins of a Spanish mission church dating to 1621-22 adorning a rugged canyon. Beyond the thick stone walls of the San José de los Jémez church are rudimentary benches underneath a wide open sky, the roof presumably long gone. We followed a short interpretive trail though the ruins of a 700-year-old village established by ancestors of today’s nearby pueblo, at around the same time as Plymouth Rock. We also admired the area’s red rock formations. Next trip to do: self-guided tours of Gisewa Pueblo and San Jose Mission; visit natural hot springs.

The village includes a cluster of shops that might be fun to explore and hiking trails.

We also drove though the Valles Caldera National Preserves, a flat 14-mile wide prairie-like expanse with dramatic patches of dark and light as clouds moved slowly in a bright blue sky. It was created by a volcanic eruption 1.2 million years ago. Hiking, biking, wildlife-gazing, fishing and cross-country skiing are available to those who venture out of their cars. We couldn’t tell if our borrowed car was being photographed to charge us $25 to drive into the preserves or if our national park pass would work! But guessing we (or the person we borrowed the car from) was charged.

In Santa Fe, we wandered around the historic plaza and the railyard district, visiting pricey shops and eating excellent New Mexican food at the famous Cafe Pasquale’s. (Huevos, tacos, lemon meringue tart). Much as I appreciate the beauty and sophistication of Santa Fe, I find it more one-note and less interesting to explore than Albuquerque, one of those underdog cities I’m drawn to maybe because I grew up outside Detroit andlearned to appreciate unlikely places where I’ve lived (Wichita, Des Moines…)

Cafe Pasqual’s

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Village Well Books/Culver City, Huntington gardens and Daisy Mint near Pasadena – California

I’m not sure I’ve visited a bookstore as buzzing with activity as Village Well Books in Culver City … and I’ve visited a lot of bookstores lately. On a sunny Sunday late-afternoon, the light airy space was full of people, browsing books, eating in the cafe, sitting at long tables with their laptops, meeting in a glass enclosed room, playing with kids in the children’s area and… listening to me talk about my diary book.

We had a good crowd (for me)… about 40 people, including several young Asian gals and guys. The audience questions were very thoughtful. Bilingual diaries popped up: one woman first wrote her diary in Chinese and then English. Another woman told me she first write in Persian, then in Hebrew and then English.

After the event we went to dinner at a nearby place that has decent food but flakey service. Ex:,The frites to our moules frites arrived after we ate our mussels and only after we asked why we had not received them. They gave us a free dessert to compensate but still.

Today we squeezed in a visit to The Huntington Gardens outside patio which was lovely as ever. Roses were in full bloom and spectacular and lunch was good at a favorite Thai restaurant, Daisy mint.

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Literati bookstore and cafe Zola in Ann Arbor; Perch and Toadvine in Berkley; Cafe Nini and central public library in Grosse Pointe – book events in Michigan

We still need to explore Ann Arbor more, beyond Zingerman’s deli and its neighbors, but I did get a peek at the terrific Literati Bookstore, inside a century-old brick building downtown during an event there for my diary book.

Also had an excellent dinner with family and friends at nearby Cafe Zola (skirt steak, bolognese pasta).

At literati with high school pals

After excellent lunch (goat cheese, bacon, fig jam grilled sandwich, muffuletta, cheese board with Pleasant Ridge and St.Germain) at The Rind (part of the cheesemongers) in Berkley (the new Royal Oak/Ferndale with interesting affordable restaurants and independent shops), we quick perused Perch, a vintage/contemporary home goods store and Toadvine, jam-packed with quality used books.

The main Grosse Pointe library, where I had another book event, turned out to be impressive in many ways including architectural/artistic. It’s a striking contemporary 1953 building designed by famous modernist architect Marcel Breuer with a large (and real) Calder mobile and mosaic piece by famed Detroit artist/family friend Glenn Michaels. Dinner (lasagna with spinach noodles in an orange bolognese sauce) was very good at nearby Cafe Nini.

AI report:

Grosse Pointe Public Library Central Branch, designed by renowned Bauhaus architect Marcel Breuer in 1953, is a landmark of modernist architecture located in Grosse Pointe Farms, Michigan. As one of his first major U.S. public commissions, the two-story brick building features distinctive floor-to-ceiling windows, open spaces, and integrated art, including a Calder mobile. World Monuments FundWorld Monuments Fund +3

Key Details of the Breuer Library:

  • Design & Structure: The building is noted for its unadorned, rectangular design, characterized as a “timeless” modern structure by Michigan Modern.
  • Art Integration: The interior was designed to showcase art, including a large Alexander Calder mobile, a Kandinsky-inspired tapestry, and a 22-foot steel sculpture by Lymon Kipp.
  • Significance: It is the only building designed by Breuer in the Detroit area, and it was commissioned by philanthropist Dexter M. Ferry.
  • Current Status: The Central Branch is recognized for its architectural significance. The Grosse Pointe Library Foundation supports the site through the Breuer Preservation Fund.

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Whitney Biennial, Chelsea market (Takomi Taco, muji)P&T Knitwear, Saigon Social in LES – NYC

Busy and fun NYC day. First stop: a members preview (courtesy of my Uncle) of the Whitney Biennial, with edgy thought- provoking art from across the country. A few impressions of trends: big full-room installations with video and/or sculpture and sound. Lots of sound in general. Unusual materials (dried breast milk and semen in one work), Palestinian theme including a poignant video installation about displacement and longing to return. very small delicate work next to very large work.

Lunch was Japanese inspired tacos at TacomiTaco, in the buzzing Chelsea Market which was even more fun to explore than I remembered. We sat at the counter and ate excellent tacos (short rib, the Japanese curry); bought hard-to-find Candy (Regal Crown sours, Rolo caramels) an outpost of the famous lower east side’s Economy Candy. I could have shopped for hours at Muji, a Japanese home goods and clothing purveyor.

After my book event at the cool bookstore P&T Knitwear on Orchard Street we had excellent food (ribs, dumplings, fried rice) at nearby Saigon Social. (Saltwater cafe turned out to be a good spot to meet an old friend.)

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Flying economy overseas – win some, lose some; how to fix a global entry cock-up; and thoughts on the new passport biometrics, new required UK ETA visa for US citizens, and global entry pros and cons.

Our flight on United from Chicago to London on a January Monday was surprisingly pleasant. The plane had tons of empty seats so we could stretch out. (I had three seats to myself. I may have even slept for an hour or so.)

San Vincente de La Barquera

Not so lucky on this return flight from Munich to Chicago on Lufthansa today, on a February Sunday. The plane has harder seats and is packed. The big guy in front of me reclined his seat, leaving me cramped and claustrophobic, even when I reluctantly reclined my seat, inflicting crampness on the guy behind me. It felt like the big guy’s seat was in my lap.

Long ancient bridge in San V

When I complained to the big guy, he didn’t budge. He argued that he was reclining because the person in front of him had reclined her seat. She created a chain (reclining) reaction, as the sympathetic flight attendant called it, when I sought her help. Reclining is bad enough but when the recliner is big, there’s even less space for the unfortunate passenger behind him/her. I knocked his seat whenever I got up, by accident of course. Oopsy.

And I got the flight attendant to request that he raise his seat during the meals so I could plausibly maneuver eating. (Truth is I didn’t eat. The food was awful. Except for Lindt chocolates served at the start and end of the flight.)

One more complaint: we had to check our luggage before we got on the flight to Munich, allegedly because our bags were “too big” which is bullshit. Our bags are regulation-small. The real issue was that the plane was full so it was presumably running out of luggage space by the time we boarded in the last group. But there was room in the luggage compartment above us!

I couldn’t find a direct Barcelona-Chicago flight, which explains our connecting flight in Munich. Next time I’ll try harder to avoid this. The first flight was about 2 hours, followed by a confusing transfer in Munich that involved going through passport control, complete with fingerprinting and photographing by a bored agent who blew a bubble with her gum (really) while she was scrutinizing my passport and tapping whatever on her computer. Why is this necessary for a one hour layover in the airport? On the plus side, this 8.5 hour flight is arriving an hour early. Amen!

Baluard bakery, Barcelona

Another good thing: Although D. couldn’t use his global entry on our departing flight to go through expedited TSA pre-select because of a government cock-up (his global entry lists his middle initial while his passport lists his middle name — the two need to be the same to use TSA preselect), he was able to use the global entry line when arriving back in the US. But, as with our October 2025 Italy trip, global entry didnt save much time. The regular line wasn’t long and moved quickly.

Building detail, Barcelona (on “block of discord”)

To correct/fix the global entry name, it’s fastest to go to the office at O’Hare or downtown— no appointment necessary. We learned this only after finding a real human to talk to, which took some time. We couldn’t get a real human on the phone at the two state of Illinois offices. I kept pressing the AI chatbot until I got a 202 number that led to a real human providing real help.

With my English pal!

We’re still getting use to the new biometrics passport control, which means you no longer show your passport or deal with a human when returning to the US. You just wait for your photo to be taken and then get a flimsy piece of paper saying global entry (or regular entry) that you give to an agent quickly and move on. I also miss having my passport stamped when arriving in the UK. Instead it’s all computer and biometrics. We did get a passport stamp when entering Spain and even when entering Germany as we were transferring planes in Munich with a brief layover.

Still another good thing: the newly required ETA (“electronic travel authorization”) Visa to enter the UK for US citizens worked without a hitch. (I brought a paper copy of my proof of Visa, just in case.) Getting the ETA online also was quick and easy, which is as it should be, this new requirement appears to be more about tit-for-tat (if the US requires Brits to get a visa to enter then the UK now requires the same of yanks) and a fees shakedown than about security or immigration control.

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Filed under England and U.K., flying, Passport control/visa/global entry/TSA preselect, Spain

Gordon’s wine bar/embankment, lamb & flag pub/ Covent garden, Maison Bertaux/soho – roaming around London with Evan.

We visited some old favorites while visiting with an old friend from Iowa. The weather finally cleared and London’s skyline looked lovely set against blue sky and sun. The whole city seemed to come out from inside, where the grey and rain kept us cooped up. We even ate outside at Gordon’s wine bar which is famous for its dark candle-lit cavernous interior. Instead we sat at an outdoor table with a heat lamp, sipping wine and eating cheese while looking out at a green garden along the Thames.

Maison Bertaux

Next stop Neal’s Yard, a tiny pocket where I used to go to a lovely bakery/tea house in the 1980s. Long gone but the cheese shop is still nearby where we bought some Stilton for the Iberia flight we’re on right now to Madrid, that won’t even give you water unless you pay for it.

Lamb and Flag

On to the Lamb and Flag, a pub from the 1600s in an alley (Rose Lane) in very bustling Covent Garden. Many streets are now pedestrian only, which is pleasant and we even reached a multi-directional crossing at Charing Cross that reminded us of Tokyo’s. We were ready to cross horizontal and then cross vertical when we saw people crossing diagonally and followed suit.

Final stop, maison Bertaux, a tiny French patisserie that oozes character. We found a rickety table upstairs and had tea, coffee, a strawberry tart and a surprisingly dry chocolate mousse cake, which may explain why the server brought us a free cream tea that was better.

London seemed good but our English friends are understandably outraged and aghast at what’s happening in the states, as are we. They have vowed not to visit unless we’re in dire need. At least one friend worried about whether she’d have trouble entering because she has been critical of trump on social media. So I guess we’ll be coming back to see them.

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Tate Britain, Westminster backstreets, Marylebone High street and lane – London

A fascinating exhibit of art and war photography by American Lee Miller lured us to Tate Britain, which I have visited less of late than its popular offspring, the Tate Modern. I forgot how Old England charming the original building and its collection are, not only the atmospheric Turner paintings but Pre-Raphaelite gems including John William Waterhouse’s 1888 painting, “The lady of shalott” my daughter’s favorite painting. (She inherited the poster from me, which I inherited from my mom.)

We saw it on her birthday! I was also dazzled John Everett Millais’s 1850s “Ophelia” (that emerald green!) and several huge John Singer Sargent portraits.

Marylebone fancy food (Bayley &Sage)

After a decent sandwich in the busy v &a cafe, we walked out into near sunshine, which was welcome after arriving in grey drizzle. We walked behind Millbank into beautiful old brick row houses with the occasional plaque of indicating the former home of someone famous (TE Lawrence, actor John Gielgud) to deans yard and Westminster school and then Westminster abbey and parliament where I was an intern 46 years ago.

Westminster hood

Dinner was at an Australian restaurant, Granger and Co. with two friends from our parliament days, my Londoner pal Francine and my college friend Patti, who is working in London. It was fun window shipping in Marylebone. Pro tip: visit the charity shops (Oxfam, cancer research) for some affordable finds. Otherwise the boutiques are ridiculously expensive. Also visit the charming Daunt bookshop.

Old friends

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Marie Antoinette at V &A, The little hive/mortlake and hare & Hounds/east sheen, jazz in west Ealing: Return to London

A dazzling exhibit on the couture and fashion influence of Marie Antoinette at the Victoria and Albert Museum turned out to be a perfect activity of a gloomy rainy day in London. We also enjoyed eating in one of the beautiful old tiled rooms of the cafeteria and cream tea in the members lounge with member Francine.

V&A

Breakfast with Una: pastries and egg concoction s was good at The little Hive, across from Mortlake station, a warm rustic place run by Albanians. we also had good pub grub nearby at the Hare and Hounds. And good jazz by a Francine friend at a pub in west Ealing, where I first lived in London as a student in 1980.

The weather is dark and rainy but at least not cold or torrential rain and there is occasional sun and bright green lawns and even some flowers so an improvement over frigid Chicago.

Note to self: Boston Manor tube was a much easier pickup than Hammersmith when arriving at Heathrow and pleasant cafe (#66) to wait

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myra Tuesday, Ruth Asawa show@MOMA, Shukette, queen of Versailles on Broadway, Marie’s Crisis, Nom Wah Tea Parlor -NYC

What a great NYC Day. We started at Grand Central Station to meet up with Myra for a post-Thanksgiving favorite: Myra Tuesday. It was raining so our usual wander around the city became a quick walk to MOMA where we lucked upon the excellent retrospective of Ruth Asawa, who used wire to make gorgeous hanging sculptures.

Ruth Asawa work

I loved her paintings and drawings too. We enjoyed a light lunch at MOMA’s terrace restaurant on the top floor – cubano, a fancy version of potato chips and onion dip, potato soup.

Dinner with Aunt Diane was delicious at Shukette, a middle eastern restaurant in Chelsea with a welcoming hipster vibe. Somehow Shukette managed to make hummus distinctive and delicious, it was creamier and lighter than I’m used to, with maybe extra tahini and oil? We chose Frena, a puffy Moroccan bread with garlic and oregano, that was chewy and full of flavor. Another standout: the lamb kebab, served perfectly pink.

The queen of Versailles was fun, if not the catchiest musical I’ve seen or heard. Great performances especially by Kristin Chenowith, seen up close and personal from fourth row seats in the pretty old St. James Theater. Always exciting to walk on Broadway at night, even with all the garish flashing billboards.

On to Marie’s Crisis Cafe in the Village, a tiny basement gay bar where people crowd around a piano player to belt out show tunes until 4 a.m. We left a little after midnight. So. Much. Fun! If only I knew Rent a little better.

On our last day, we wandered around the village, Nolita (mulberry street) and Chinatown on a sunny Wednesday, stopping for dim sum at the atmospheric Nom Wah Tea Parlor. (Reminder to self: cash only)

Downtown windows

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Salute to Sixt Car rental NYC

Amazingly enough, there was no line and no customers at the Sixt car rental office on a residential side street near LaGuardia Airport on Thanksgiving Day. We sailed right in and right out. In minutes we were driving a very large GMC Acadia SUV. Not the compact car we reserved (or paid for) but very comfortable and clean.

This Sixt experience was a marked improvement over recent rentals with Budget during Thanksgiving, when we had to deal with painfully long lines and rigamarole. This is the second time in recent months that we have had an excellent experience with Sixt (the earlier time was October in Bari, Italy) so we will definitely be return customers if the price allows! Apparently sixt is a German company founded in 1912 and made a deal in 2020 with Lyft so people can use the Lyft app to rent a Sixt car.

I’m not the only happy camper.

SIXT Named Best Rental Car Company in USA Today Awards

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