Both the New York Times and Midwest Living have published glowing articles about tourism in southwest Michigan, around New Buffalo, an area we’ve come to know well thanks to my sister who moved to Bridgman, a short walk from Weko Beach, a perfectly sandy stretch along Lake Michigan, just north of Warren Dunes State Park.
This trip we stopped at Farmette, outside New Buffalo, a farm-to-table food store and bakery with delicious breads and a good selection of cheeses, dips, pastries. No great sandwiches. Farmette reminded me of the Farm Club outside Traverse City.
We returned to the mango dispensary in new Buffalo that, yet again, didn’t have the sleep gummies I like (Camino sours, deep sleep).
We have eaten very well this trip at sophisticated, veg-driven farm-to-table places with lovely gardens and garden ingredients. The “farmer’s Scramble” (eggs, cheese, sautéed onions, squash and tomatoes) at PennyRoyal Cafe on the outskirts of Saugatuck was wonderfully fresh and tasty, served with perfectly browned crispy potatoes and muesli bread.
The place looks humble from the two lane BluE Star Highway, outside downtown Saugatuck but chef Missy Corey is a James Beard award semi finalist producing interesting takes on classic fare, with a focus on quality ingredients. We waltzed in at 1:45 pm on a Saturday and ate in a lovely shaded courtyard with native plants but the small casual dining room is cool – with an open kitchen, copper bar for seating and landscapes by a local artist. Easy in and out, minus the tourist crush in downtown Saugatuck.
Esch beach, Honor, MI
We also made a quick stop at the Fulton Street Market in a transitional neighborhood of Grand Rapids. The open air market is one long corridor, with a roof, packed with Michigan produce. We arrived around 1, when some vendors were looking to unload their produce. We may be eating green beans and basil for days.
Last stop, two cannabis dispensaries (yes, you read that right) in New Buffalo. I’ve been trying CBD/CBN gummies as a sleep aid but both stores I visited (Mango and Bowdega) were sold out of the kind I’ve been using (Camino deep sleep) so I ended up with another brand and a bunch of free samples that I don’t know what I’ll do with!
Glad to be back here in the summer although the lake was tempestuous yesterday with 5-7 foot waves and frigid temp (58 degrees).plus Canadian smoke that dulled the fiery red sunset. The major evening activity here in Bridgman on Weko beach is watching the sunset and listening to someone play taps on the bugle. gotta love that.
We finally got around to eating lunch at Ray and Al’s, a charming little “lunch room” in an old building on the small main drag of the rural village of Galien, about 11 miles east of Three Oaks. It’s got that nice mix of nothing fancy but well done food (excellent tuna melt, hero sandwich) with dabs of antique decor and appealing (and remarkably reasonably priced) contemporary art.
The same people have opened a coffee place inside Commune+Market, a new community gathering spot in Three oaks with individual vendors inside a contemporary building. A few more spaces need filling but there’s a sweet stationary, small press shop there now. Viola’s cafe has opened under new management and is supposed to be good Cajun. We also visited two excellent galleries – Judy Ferrara and 3 arbors art (which represents the stunning art photography of Chicago artist Jessica Tampas, who took the author photo for my book. See bottom right of photo montage above.)
Next stop, Homecamp flower farm where we walked up and down the rows of the small farm clipping zinnias, wildflowers, ornamental thistles for a huge bouquet. Good value at $20. Tonight, we watched taps on the beach. Perfect.
Next visit to try: Out there and Farmette
Note to self: skip getting gas’s off interstate in Michigan city on an August Saturday. A zoo.
First, we did not ride a century (100 Miles). Fortunately this celebrated annual bike ride in southwest Michigan offered plenty of route options (15, 25, 37, 50, 100) and there was no shaming. We all rode the same last stretch into Three Oaks, Mi. there was no way necessarily to know who rode 15 miles or 100. Dirck and I contemplated chatting loudly as we rode into Three Oaks about how “the first 75 miles were a breeze, but those last 25, man they were tough.”
In truth we road about 34 miles, we think, since we shaved off one wee bit of the 37 mile route (that dipped into Indiana). It was a lovely ride. Mostly flat but with a variety of scenery, from farms with old barns, yellowing corn and browning soybeans outside Three Oaks to big mansions and charming small cottages, old inns (Gordon Beach and Lakeside Inn) and camp along Lake Michigan in New Buffalo and Lakeside to exurbia who-knows-where-exactly with the occasional McMansion or Hamptons-like faux chateau or denser communities of luxury houses or mobile homes on the way back through the woods to Three Oaks.
We couldn’t help comparing the ACC experience to RAGRAI, the Des Moines Registers’s annual great ride across Iowa, which I have partially ridden several times (1 to 3 days) and dirck has done in full (seven days). We saw several RAGBRAI bike jerseys and one woman bragged that she’d ridden ragbrai 21 times. Interesting to find out that the ACC ride and Ragbrai are both 51 this year. RAGBRAI is much longer (a week not a day) and much more of a production to ride and organize. It’s also a lot hillier, windier, hotter (in late July) and challenging, often with 70 or more mile days, one day after another.
Our improvised routeGordon Beach inn
I loved that the ACC was so chill. Much smaller so no lines. I was surprised that there were no vendors along the route – no eating your way across Michigan, as in Iowa. No Mr. Pork Chop or loud hand -cranked ice cream machine or pop-up beer gardens. No beer at all, or circus. No “teams” wearing tutus or tiny port-a-potties on their helmets. Or riders trailing boom boxes blaring music.
Very different scene. The only vendor we encountered was a few girls serving free lemonade outside a contemporary house near Lake Michigan. A pumpkin farm also had free cider. We stopped at Roar, an art gallery in a big red barn in Three Oaks, which kindly laid out candy for riders and had the most immaculate port-a-potty I’ve encountered. I appeared to be the first customer, judging from the toilet paper roll which did not roll. (figuring out where to tear it was a challenge.) the gallery owner, whose work exhibited includes his own, also runs a cool Airbnb in Sawyer called Ozzie’s Place.
Roar Art gallery inside the red barn in Three oaks
We encountered only one official “sag stop” on the grounds of a pretty old yellow house in a clearing in the woods and much appreciated the free cider, apples, bananas, trail mix, cookies. water. At the end of the ride, people piled into a Catholic Church hall in Three Oaks for a free spaghetti dinner (spaghetti never tasted so good) and, shades of RAGBRAI, church women served slices of apple or pumpkin pie. No lines. No crowds. No traffic jams. No exhaustion. No major hills. Some families. Lots of Chicagoans. What looked like a few Detroiters.
I wondered how the five different routes would overlap and be marked. EASY Peasy. There were occasional spray painted apples on the street, each route coded a different color. We mostly followed the blue apple signs for the 37 mile ride. and there was enough overlap that we could edit the route, cutting off a little here (sorry, Indiana, maybe we’ll ride your way next time) and adding a little there (to make sure we rode along the lake, a highlight.) Anyway, totally fun and well run and we hope to return.
By the end of this busy day in southwest Michigan, we had a car full of bike shirts, democratic candidate fliers, apples, cider and pumpkins, which reflects the dual nature of the day. We spent much of it canvassing for democratic candidates in New Buffalo, volunteering on behalf of the Michigan Dems – visiting streets completely off the tourist path in New Buffalo, which was interesting. We encountered a mix of friendly Dems and sometimes hostile Trumpers. One woman slammed the door in my face after declaring she’d never vote for “that woman,” i.e. Kamala Harris. Other republicans were more pleasant.
More fun with skeletons
We also were in the area for the annual Apple Cider Bike Ride that happens tomorrow. We went to the registration in a Catholic church in Three Oaks, where there was also a very good sale on bikeshirts in a nearby tent. Later in the day, after canvassing, we returned to Three Oaks for the bike ride’s “ice cream social” which was fun. We lined up for free ice cream (Michigan pothole, my new fav, was an option) and popcorn which we ate in a little park in town where a blues band played in a gazebo.
Apple Cider Ride ice cream social
We took the backroad Cleveland (the name of our street in Chicago) to the Twin Maples apple orchard north of Galien (pronounced Ga-leen, home of Ray and Al’s cafe, which remains on my must-try list). (UPDATE: The cafe opened an offshoot in THREE OAKS — Commune+Market, a new coffee shop and expansive event space, is set to open its doors in the heart of downtown Three Oaks at 105 North Elm St. Source: Harbor Country News https://search.app/38eUeVg2UJQ85qfp8)
We picked up some Jonathan apples (uncommonly huge and red) for applesauce-making, plus some mutsu apples and honeycrisps for eating and some cider. We had a pretty drive further north (marred only by too many Trump signs) through Baroda, stopping outside st. Joseph at devries farm to pick up some pumpkins and unusual gourds.
Houndstooth fare: poke with avocado in blackberry ponzu sauce and Japanese milk bread with black garlic and chives.
Dinner at Houndstooth in Benton Harbor did not disappoint. It helped that the clerk at an outfitters shop (wanderlust) in St. Joes excitedly recommended what we should order, down to the drink (WaffleHouse, an odd name for what tasted and looked like elegant lemonade). The Japanese milk bread was fabulous (which I would not have thought to order had the clerk not recommended).
She also recommended the passion fruit panne cotta with little pieces of meringue for desert which was as delicious as it was beautiful to look at. Looked like mini birch tree branches in a creamy bright yellow sea. We sat on the patio which fortunately was not deserted but next time I’d like to try the dining room which was hopping. Strange to find such life inside a building on otherwise lifeless streets but I’m guessing affordable rents in this struggling town made it possible for a talented chef to set up shop.
We danced the night away at my niece’s wedding, held at White Oak Farm in the countryside near Michigan City, Indiana, only 12 minutes from New Buffalo, Michigan, but one time zone away.The weather was dry (amen) and in the 80s, with some intense sunshine during the early part of the outdoor service on a stone patio between two barns – not the old rustic barns but new fancy barns, one with chandeliers, designed not for livestock but for events including weddings. Great people, service, food, dj, dancing.
The “barn”
The morning after, my sibs and I checked out of our respective airbnbs at 10 am (a bit challenging when you’ve gone to bed at 1:30 am) and met at Issa Vibe Cafe, a cheerful easygoing spot with large breakfast paninis (request mayo/aioli on the side; consider sharing) and coffee drinks. It was a good place to hangout and a perfect way to end our family gathering.
Noah, D and I did stop for some Michigan pothole ice cream at Oinks on the way out of New Buffalo. We’re talking very chocolate ice cream with oreo cookie crumbs and mini-peanut butter cups, so not suitable for our lab Millie, who was with us. Amazingly, another customer came over to our table with a little dish of vanilla ice cream for Millie. How kind was that?
Finally made it to southwest Michigan on a day when the Judith Racht gallery in Harbert was open. (i.e. long weekends) And so glad to finally visit! terrific collection of contemporary artwork, some from local artists, as well as grassroots/folk/outsider art, and eclectic antiques. Sorry to miss the gallery’s Outsiders Outside Art Fair over Labor Day weekend.
We also stopped at an old favorite a little north in Fennville at The Roots Cafe. Not sure the b&b burger (blue cheese and bacon) was best item to share. Delicious and a mess. The onion rings and fresh lemonade were less messy and also delicious.
Overcast morning at the beach which proved to be perfect, especially with our sweet lab Millie in tow. We walked just past Weko Beach (no dogs allowed) to the edge of Warren Dunes Park (dogs welcome) and set up our chairs, with few neighbors due to early hour (10-ish) and cloudy sky. Millie loved the water and sand, rolling around in ecstasy, soon a wet sandy mess but so happy!
A woman who seemed like a serious stone collector (stoner!) filled me in on the tiny “Indian Beads” she was looking for, which look like a tiny button with a hole in the center. Good for jewelry and other crafts. I later found one (or near) and even more thrilling, a petosky stone!! Didn’t think they were down here!
Swedish bakery
The water temp was perfect, much warmer than our last chilly swim 🏊♀️ on july 4 when the water temp was 59.
Froelichs
We got some pastries at the popular Swedish Bakery where a small crowd patiently waited. Good cinnamon rolls, scones (soft not hard), blueberry muffins, crustless quiche. At Froelichsin Three oaks we ate a late lunch at the bar (corn elote salads; pickled chicken sandwich) and bought flatbread to take home. We loaded up on red haven peaches, sweet corn, first tomatoes of the season at the MichiganProduce stand, near Bridgman. Last stop: Oinks for ice cream in New Buffalo – half scoops were plenty. Michigan pothole, fresh peach, mint cookie. Excellent.
Such a treat to visit this lovely corner of southwest Michigan that I didn’t know about when I was growing up in southeast Michigan.
Thanks to my sister for sharing it with us. On weko beach at 9 pm, people dot the soft sand, two paddlers drift in Lake Michigan, everyone is looking west at the setting sun (shockingly red last night, perhaps due to smoke from the Canadian wildfires) as a bugler plays taps.
We have become periodic regulars at phearth in Bridgman, with great pizza and carefully selected gourmet market fare including Cottonwood Cheddar (from Kansas!) and at Haymaket, easy going outdoor dining with 🐕 in a clearing in the woods, with kids rushing over to greet our dog Millie, tables of friends, an older couple playing cards between bites of pizza. The Mason Jar perks up Benton Harbor (Cobb salad, lemonade, spotty service).
Finally made it back to southwest Michigan’s lake shore as the summer fades. The sky has been overcast but a wretched Midwest heat wave is over, leaving behind pleasantly warm lake water and giant whitecaps which were fun to swim in!
Red arrow roadhouse
We had excellent whitefish at Red Arrow Roadhouse in Union Pier, a fun casual spot. Judith Racht gallery in Harbert, which specializes in “primitive/outsider” art, located in an old school house, was closed for the week. I browsed inside SO (Stockholm objects) which had beautiful and expensive Swedish (and other) clothing and home goods.
On Saturday we took the three dogs for a walk along the beach and, as it turns out, a swim. All three labs love the water and Weko beach has a designated area for dogs south of the main swim area toward Warren Dunes State Park. Lunch was at The local, one of those little trendy touches in a still mostly ordinary small town, except there was one other trendy touch, a pottery gallery with ceramics from all over the world that was crazy expensive.
One pot, I kid you not, from an Australian ceramicist (for this price I’m not calling her/him a potter) was $4,600. You read that right and I did too after double and triple checking. Was it glazed in gold?
We went peach picking at a place in baroda and all decided peach trees are so pretty. The peaches are not yet ripe so here’s hoping. we went on a 17 mile bike ride leaving from Three Oaks, east on Kruger road and at the small town of Galien, we rode south on Cleveland, crossing the scary major highway (12) and then heading back east along very pretty Buffalo road which during the last mile was as A sandy gravel road that led to a dirt road (Avery) back over highway 12. Not a perfect loop but as close as we could get. We picked up an excellent Margherita pizza at patellie’s in Three Oaks.