Driving around northeast Sicily mountain/volcano area, Catania

We couldn’t deal with the possibility of more Amalfi Coast-like crowds in the Sicilian resort town of Taormina so we decided instead to take a very scenic drive south on ss185 though the mountains and small lovely hilltop towns north of Mount etna. Very glad we did. Lovely quiet towns and spectacular scenery with fog, rain, sun adding to the atmospherics. We stopped in one town, Novara di Sicilia, to pick up some of its local cheese and salami, then found an unlikely picnic table, very rustic, on the edge of a winding pass in a pine forest (the table was made out of pine trees). We also chanced upon a gorge, near francaville di Sicilia that was pretty impressive, even to this gorge-snob (which I became thanks to Ithaca, NY.) and we got caught behind a funeral procession of people walking solemnly behind a hearse in castiglione di Sicilia another hill town with amazing views out across the mountains.

Unenthusiastic about repeating our past near-disaster experience trying to drive to our b&b Crociferi in the central historic district of Catania, we returned the car early at the airport and took a taxi to the b&b (even the taxi driver was unclear about how to get to the b&b thanks to all the one way streets and pedestrian zones. He dropped us off several blocks away. We had another gorgeous room at the b&b, an old villa, and were greeted warmly by Teresa, who sent us to a nearby family trattoria, Nuova Trattoria del forestiero ( via Coppola 24) that had fantastic Sicilian fare but very slow service. I had pasta Norma (with eggplant, tomato sauce, basil and what was supposed to be ricotta but was a sharper hander cheese. Still great. Dirck had veal scapolinne, in a wine, lemon sauce. Delicious. Surprising how affordable veal is here. And I wish I could cook eggplant the way the Italians do. it’s velvety soft, full of flavor and moisture..

Teresa’s husband Mario drove us to the airport at 6:30 am for our return flight to rome. Again very glad not to have the car. when we next visit, I would like to spend more time in Catania and Naples. Both seemed really lively and interesting, with grand architecture and lots of bohemian street life.

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Motor scooter day on Lipari!

After about 10 minutes of sharing a motor scooter on the winding mountainous road of this small island, I released my death grip around Dirck’s waist and just enjoyed the ride and of course the scenery. There is one main road that runs around the island and it’s narrow, with lots of steep switchbacks. fortunately there wasn’t much traffic once we got out the town, except for the occasional whizzing past us scooter or car. Only encountered one tour bus and the public buses look more like vans.

we stopped for a hike on the southwest side of the island to a gorgeous somewhat secluded beach (Valle mare). After a longer rougher hike than expected, we arrived at a tiny bar on the beach with two tables with a thatched roof– one just waiting for us. perfect place for our picnic, especially since it started to drizzle. I had some of the local amber colored wine (yes, I am drinking wine. A little) and Dirck had a beer. We had a spectacular view of the rocky shore and mountains leading down to it and other rock formations and actual rocky islands in the sea. A handful of people were swimming and we met a few hikers on our way back up but overall very quiet. Lovely. We stopped twice in the smaller town, Canneto, known for its popular beach but we liked it because it was much less touristed than where we are. We stopped twice at the same little bar and had gelato (Dirck) and granita (me). Rental was from Bruno, nice guy who seemed amused by our adventure.

At night we had one of our best meals of the trip (and that is high praise indeed since we have had NO bad meals) at the Kasbah, which serves”modern Sicilian” cuisine in a very stylish environment with an international crowd (lots of French and Germans) but not snobby or stuffy at all. I had the best swordfish I’ve ever had, grilled over spinach with a little prosciutto and some delicious guitar pick shaped frites; Dirck had ravioli with ingredients we don’t really know what they were (no English menu here) but delicious. Chocolate panna cotta and limone Tiramisu for dessert. (Kasbah is not to be confused with 25 restaurant, located at the former site of Kasbah. We mistakenly ate there two nights earlier. Good but not as good.)

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Lipari/isole eolie: Diana brown’s, dolce vita, Stromboli, Panarea,

I owe a huge thank you to my Aunt Janet for urging me to tear up my itinerary so I could add a visit to the Aeolian Islands (isole eolie), an out worldly smattering of volcanic islands in the Mediterranean north of Sicily.

And here we are! amazing place. We are staying at Diana brown’s, a small guesthouse along a very narrow passage way on the main island of Lipari. charming place. Our room feels a bit like a beach cabana, with sliding wooden doors opening onto a one room efficiency.

Today we went on a 9 hour cruise on a small boat with about 30 people to two other islands, Panarea and Stromboli, dropping anchor twice to jump into the sea near a huge volcanic rock /tiny island for a swim in warm clear blue water. heaven! On each of the islands we had time to walk around and explore for an hour or so. Both were fancier and less commercial than Lipari. Panarea seemed particularly well heeled. We found a very friendly family run trattoria for a terrific lunch of spaghetti (vongole, another one that tasked a bit like my puttanesca, using the excellent local capers). in Stromboli, we had the best gelato I have ever had. The chocolate was so rich and creamy, almost seemed like the consistency of frosting, although not sickly sweet. Stromboli is where I’d stay if I visit here next. Tropical, lush vegetation and flowers and crops. And the entire island is an active volcano. At sunset, our boat hovered in the waters next to the volcano, giving us a perfect view of the red slovs trickling down the mountain. Our handsome Italian boat crew member poured us small cups of sweet wine/liquor. The excursion company, dolce vita (run by Diana browns daughter and son in law) knew what it was doing.

Risotante da l’eolian, Panarea
Subba pastries, Lipari,
Lapillo gelato, Stromboli
Totem trekking Stromboli,
Market
Fruit

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Palazzolo Acreide, Noto, colamosche, Anapama b&b, Modica, Ragusa

very behind in blogging, in part because there is no wifi at this very hidden agritourismo, Anapama b&b, down a very steep narrow winding dirt road leading into a valley in the shadow of the high walls of the hilltop Palazzalo Acreide.
some highlights:
Anapama – beautifully rescued Sicilian stone farm house with lots of rough hewn stone, tile, wood, ceramics, art, Turkish rugs. Feels exotic and lush. Run by elegant older woman named Vivian who looks like an older age fashion model. She lived on a commune outside Santa Cruz in the 70s and tried organic farming in Tennessee, of all places before moving here at some point after marrying someone from Siracusa ( she’s from Milan) and having three kids and opening a bar in Siracusa. gorgeous place with a pool and horses and many dogs and cats but drive here is challenging and the dogs started howling at about 3 am. Great breakfast.
Noto, Modica, Ragusa– all hilltop towns with magnificent caramel colored limestone baroque cathedrals and chock a block homes tucked into the hillside. As I expected, I liked Modica best. Ragusa was beautiful but a bit too posh. Noto was picture postcard perfect. Palazzalo Acreide is more of a real place but also has it’s astonishing churches.
Coalamosche- beautiful pocket beach between two cliffs jutting out into the Mediterranean. Warm water. I was the only one piece suit on the beach.
Restaurants– too good ones in Pallazzalo: trattoria del gallo, homey place, wehearty food, we were served what the waiter offered. No menu. All good. Tonight went to Andrea — little fancier, excellent. No one spoke English and no translated menu which was sort of refreshing. We did ok.
We had a really lovely drive through the Sicilian countryside to get to Modica. Classic olive-grey and khaki fields with winding white stone fences and crumbling or restored stone farmhouses, olive trees, lemon trees, vineyards, persimmon trees, cactus and agave. Vaguely reminded me of Crete. So glad we came here.

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Siracusa: Ortigia, Greek temple/duomo, hotel gutkowski, Sicilia in tavola,

The Ortigia peninsula of Siracusa is spectacular! it’s a small fat finger of land gutting out into the Mediterranean, densely packed with narrow streets and alleyways lined with three story creme colored stone buildings, many with gargoyles and crazy curving wrought iron balconies and then a wide open plaza with what feels like polished marble floors, dominated by a cathedral that is so old that you can see the original huge columns of the Greek temple that served as a skeleton or bone structure of sorts for the eventual ornate baroque cathedral. Wow!

we stayed at the hip but not haughty Hotel Gutkowski, in two old buildings that overlook the crashing waves of the east side of Ortigia. I was lucky to snag one of the handful of sea view rooms, which we could see through our opened French doors. The place was full of texture, rough hewn wood beams, earthy stone tile floors, shabby chic furniture, a jumble of old stuff and new, contemporary art. Very well done. And the staff could not have been nicer. Free granita was served in the early evening on the roof, with a glorious sea view.

for lunch, we had amazing fresh pasta with seafood done in Sicilian tradition at Sicilia in tavola, a friendly trattoria that immediately filled up,for lunch with reservations. But the hostess suggested we return in a half hour so we did and voila…a table! We had some unlikely combos that definitelY worked: spaghetti caserecci (clams, shrimp, pistachios, olive oil tomatoes) and a Sicilian specialty spaghetti alpar palermitana ( pine nuts, raisens, sardines, wild fennel, onions, bread crumbs, tuna). for dinner we ate at Gut, the restaurant in the hotel although not run by it. We had well seasoned octopus over a bed of thin sliced vegetable tempura and some simple fresh fish. the breakfast this morning was great. — finally some really good fresh fruit including very orange, very sweet cantelope, fresh figs, moist prunes.

in the evening, a big Saturday night, we followed the crowd down a narrow street to the duomo and past some hopping trattorias and bars blaring disco music and down to the castle like fortress at the tip of the pen insular where there was another bar and disco music. Fun to watch the crowd, everything from teens on the make to whole families with little kids out and about at 11 pm and a rollicking wedding party. Too much fun!

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Amalfi to Catania Sicily): bus, ferry, train, pizza, bus, plane, car, lost but finally found our b&b

Posting this a few days late…

Epic journey yesterday with many different forms of transportation and only two near disasters: 1) Dirck got lost on a mountain trail after a morning hike to an ATM in the small village of Atrani. Roberto, the proprietor of our B&b nearby came to the rescue in his car. 2) what was advertised as an 11 minute drive from the Catana airport to our b&b Crociferi lasted 2 hours thanks to a limited map and lots of one way streets. at one point things looked grim but suddenly we found the tiny street in the historic district we needed and our amazing little place in an elegant old mansion.

beyond that, other highlights included the ferry ride from Amalfi to Salerno, gorgeous again (and somewhat relieved to depart already tourist heavy Amalfi just as a giant tour boat was disgorging passengers via lifeboats for a little visit (not evacuation); a quick visit to Naples, where we got a taste of the cacophonous street life and some fantastic pizza! The famous place we tried to go to for pizza was mobbed but we did just fine at a little place nearby, Pizza Sorbillo on via Tribinali. We really liked the clutter and clatter of Naples downtown streets, hanging laundry, fish mongers, graffiti, vaguely dodgy at

Expresso at cafe Mexico, Naples

Expresso at cafe Mexico, Naples

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lunch in Naples (what else?)

lunch in Naples (what else?)

Atmosphere. Hope to return. it was also very easy to leave our bags at the left luggage office at the train station. Also enjoyed Cafe Mexico by the station where old fashioned guys in vaguely military like outfits served us expresso at the bar (not your typical yank barista.)
We were also impressed by the Naples airport.

Naples

Naples

Very stylish, with modern sofas in the waiting area that looked like something out of a shelter magazine ad  and incredible food (an airport mozzarella bar…take note LaGuardia airport rehabbers) and high end high design shops.

Once we finally got to b&b Crociferi in Catania, all was well and we found a beautiful people  crowd at a nearby outdoor cafe, Locanda Cerami, in front of a beautiful old stone church, at 10 pm and excellent food…my first salad in Italy (with small balls of creamy buffalo mozzarella, tuna and corn) and my first braesola with a little olive oil and asiago cheese. Yum.

Our room turned out to be an entire apartment, with  a fresco painted in the high ceiling and stylish modern furniture. We had our best breakfast to date, prepared by our friendly host Teresa and enjoyed the fellow guests, an Australian couple, a Berlin couple and two Vermonters (one of whom lived on a commune in Decorah Iowa, presumably in the 60s.)

 

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arriving in Amalfi by boat from Salerno

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Ravello – Villa Ruffalo, Trattoria Cumpa Cosima, walking back to Punta Civita

Dramatic weather accompanied the dramatic scenery when we visited Ravello today. Just as we arrived in a crowded bus winding up and up a narrow road past mountain sides covered with lush vegetation (olive trees, lemon trees, vineyards), a dark cloud burst with rain. it took about a half hour or so to quiet down and what glory it left behind, with fog lifting from the mountains and sun breaking through to turn the mountainsides even greener and the Mediterranean even bluer.
Ravello is ravishing. I could stare out at the mountains jutting into the ocean for hours. And did. We enjoyed this while also walking through the gardens at Villa Rufalo, where a crew appeared to be dismantling a stage used for the Ravello festival. Cannot imagine what it would be like to watch a musical performance with the Amalfi coast as the backdrop, let alone to be the performer. we had a fantastic lunch at trattoria Cumpa Cosimo — slices of veal in a lemon sauce, a plate of assorted pastas (all excellent), tomatoes sliced into wedges served with a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Simple but who needs more when the raw materials are so outstanding?
We took the long way home, a somewhat treacherous series of steps leading down the mountain to our new b&b, Punta Civita, which is even lovelier than our last across the road and promises to be quieter, since it is off the road.

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OMG Amalfi Coast!! Salerno, Amalfi, Ravello gorgioso!

How excited am I to be back here for the first time since I celebrated my 23rd birthdAy back in 1982, at a crazy party at a trattoria in Positano! So excited! And this place is as stunning as I remembered.

We are staying at a no name bed and breakfast on the impossibly narrow winding road between Amalfi and Ravello. The only way we found it was because Roberto, who runs the b&b Punta Civita across the road, flagged the very crowded bus we were traveling in and my name was passed down through the bus in various accents until it reached us and we got off. We are staying with Roberto’s cousin tonight until our room opens up tomorrow at Punta Civita. No problemo! We have a spectacular view of the Mediterranean and the mountains and a sweet little wrought iron bed with cream colored curtains tied at the corners.

Our fast train from Rome took only two hours and I spent much of it talking to a very handsome Italian from Naples who travels the world selling liturgical vestments and other catholic stuff made by his family’s company. He was full of suggestions of what and where to eat here and in sicily, including the aeolian islands and judging from the wonderful little family run fish place we went to in Amalfi tonight, we are all set. Best spaghetti vongole (with clams) ever (thought of you dad!) and a fresh baked fish in a light olive oil, garlic sauce. Trattoria dei Cartari, bravo! For dessert we had tangy refreshing creme di limone at a tiny stand nearby serving 4 different iced lemon desserts.

In Salerno I had a great pizza Napolino (tomato sauce, capers, olives, anchovies, no cheese) at Atlantide, which seemed to be popular with well -heeled locals. The ferry was well worth the wait …a 35 minute ride hugging the coast and looking out at the occasional cluster of buildings clinging to the mountainside. we shared the open air deck with lots of well heeled Chinese young people and assorted other tourists.

Amalfi was packed with tourists but I am pleased to stay they seem far away now. From our b&b we walked down a crazy narrow steep set of stairs, hundreds of them, all stone, past people’s tiled and flowered terraces, past a lovely village church, through narrow white tunneled passageways to the small unaffected village of Atrani,where we found a tiny bar in an unlikely spot on the beach, tucked under a huge brick aqueduct/bridge. great spot for a beer and we met a nice couple from Northern Ireland who were former Londoners.
tomorrow we will go to ravello proper. Preferably by bus since it is a very steep climb otherwise. So happy to be back in a place I have longed to return!

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bella Roma — via Giulia, Tartuffo, Rosciola, taverna trilussa,

No surprise that I have my first major blister on my foot. we walked that much and no regrets. We crossed the bridge from Trastevere to Centro Storico, feeling like we crossed the the left bank to the right bank in Paris or from the Village to the upper east side in NYC. Definitely more posh although not too. and absolutely gorgeous streets to walk down like Via Giulia, apparently one of the most photographed streets in Rome – straight road lined with beautiful buildings and grand churches.

We walked down several popular shopping streets to campo del fiori, which had a big fruit and food market then onto what turned out to be our favorite shopping street, via del giubbonari, where Dirck bought a leather belt and I resisted the temptation to buy a soft leather purse.

We had an amazing lunch at Rosciola, a famous salumeria where the sliced meats and cheeses come from the old world counter at the front of the shop. I had the creamiest ricotta cheese I will probably ever taste, just spread on bread or even better without anything else.

After walking to various tourist hotspots I haven’t been to in 30 years (pantheon, trevi fountain…under construction ) we ended up splitting a Tartuffo, the famous ice cream treat served at tre scalini, overlooking Piazza Navronne. Thought about my mother who loved rome and insisted my sister and I have a Tartuffo at tre scalini when we first came here in 1978.

Dinner was unexpectedly at taverna trilussa in Trastevere, a very popular spot packed with big Italian families. When I called in advance I was told we couldn’t get in until 10:15 but when we happened upon the place at 8 pm they ushered us to a table in the warm cozy taverna. I may have to cut back on the pasta…but it sure was good.

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