Tag Archives: trastevere

bella Roma — via Giulia, Tartuffo, Rosciola, taverna trilussa,

No surprise that I have my first major blister on my foot. we walked that much and no regrets. We crossed the bridge from Trastevere to Centro Storico, feeling like we crossed the the left bank to the right bank in Paris or from the Village to the upper east side in NYC. Definitely more posh although not too. and absolutely gorgeous streets to walk down like Via Giulia, apparently one of the most photographed streets in Rome – straight road lined with beautiful buildings and grand churches.

We walked down several popular shopping streets to campo del fiori, which had a big fruit and food market then onto what turned out to be our favorite shopping street, via del giubbonari, where Dirck bought a leather belt and I resisted the temptation to buy a soft leather purse.

We had an amazing lunch at Rosciola, a famous salumeria where the sliced meats and cheeses come from the old world counter at the front of the shop. I had the creamiest ricotta cheese I will probably ever taste, just spread on bread or even better without anything else.

After walking to various tourist hotspots I haven’t been to in 30 years (pantheon, trevi fountain…under construction ) we ended up splitting a Tartuffo, the famous ice cream treat served at tre scalini, overlooking Piazza Navronne. Thought about my mother who loved rome and insisted my sister and I have a Tartuffo at tre scalini when we first came here in 1978.

Dinner was unexpectedly at taverna trilussa in Trastevere, a very popular spot packed with big Italian families. When I called in advance I was told we couldn’t get in until 10:15 but when we happened upon the place at 8 pm they ushered us to a table in the warm cozy taverna. I may have to cut back on the pasta…but it sure was good.

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Ah Roma! Trastevere, casa di Santa Francesca Romana and other great finds

The ancient but hip Rome neighborhood of Trastevere is just what I hoped it would be, full of narrow streets paved with small square black stones, lined by gorgeous brick, stone and stuccoed buildings decorated with the old frieze or fresco or mosaic, with vines spilling over with flowers. The streets inevitably lead to wide open piazzas that have a stunning church (Santa Maria De Trestevere) or imposing building.

We ate very well just happening upon local places, a great deli called Giselda (on the main frag (52 viale di trastevere) where we just went up to various counters and pointed to what we wanted (fresh ricotta, sliced ham, a slice of pizza, some eggplant parm, beer); tonight we had pasta (bucatini with bacon and tomato sauce) and pizza with cheese and anchovies at a lovely little outdoor table around the block at Sette Oche in Altalena (via dei salumi 36). We finished with drinks across the street (alley really) from our hotel. It’s a tiny well place with quirky decorations called Niji.Our hotel is perfect and remarkably affordable 129 euro (about 150$) and full of character (it is a former convent that still has lots of catholic decor. it’s called Casa di Santa Francesca Romano — also great location on a relatively quiet street in this happening neighborhood.

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