The ancient but hip Rome neighborhood of Trastevere is just what I hoped it would be, full of narrow streets paved with small square black stones, lined by gorgeous brick, stone and stuccoed buildings decorated with the old frieze or fresco or mosaic, with vines spilling over with flowers. The streets inevitably lead to wide open piazzas that have a stunning church (Santa Maria De Trestevere) or imposing building.
We ate very well just happening upon local places, a great deli called Giselda (on the main frag (52 viale di trastevere) where we just went up to various counters and pointed to what we wanted (fresh ricotta, sliced ham, a slice of pizza, some eggplant parm, beer); tonight we had pasta (bucatini with bacon and tomato sauce) and pizza with cheese and anchovies at a lovely little outdoor table around the block at Sette Oche in Altalena (via dei salumi 36). We finished with drinks across the street (alley really) from our hotel. It’s a tiny well place with quirky decorations called Niji.Our hotel is perfect and remarkably affordable 129 euro (about 150$) and full of character (it is a former convent that still has lots of catholic decor. it’s called Casa di Santa Francesca Romano — also great location on a relatively quiet street in this happening neighborhood.