The cooks house, alliance, Spanglish — eating well in Traverse City

Botanical garden, village at the commons, traverse city

Botanical garden, village at the commons, traverse city

To date, we have had three meals in this foodie town, each unique and excellent. The Cooks House is just that, a small cozy house with some fine cooks using a long list of locally sourced products duly listed on a chalk board. We had a fresh vvegetable  first course (mine was a creative take on sweet potatoes) and then a very Hearty entree (excellent steak, pork, fish). Today we walked all around the city which is full of people and interesting shops. We walked down Front street (the main drag where our friends are urban pioneers, living ina stunning loft fashioned from the second story of an old sandstone brick warehouse, with a back porch with a dazzling blue of Grand Traverse bay) to a former “insane asylum” that has been converted into a series of little shops, restaurants, residential lofts.

Boardman River, TC

Boardman River, TC

 

We walked around a beautiful old farm with botanical gardens in an old horse stable, ate an excellent Mexican meal at Spanglish, sampled wines and cider at Left Foot Charlie next door. Later we stopped at several wineries on the old mission peninsula, with more spectacular views of hills with red, yellow and orange trees leading to Lake Michigan ‘s blue waters.

Tonight, we ate at Alliance, the hot new restaurant in town which is no small feat considering how many good dining options this small town has. Shared plates of food in one of a kind combinations with very fresh ingredients, vibrant and complicated flavor combinations. We thoroughly enjoyed.

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Fennville, saugatuck, on the road to Traverse City

img_0290GOrgeous fall day as we drove the second leg of our trip up north from an okay comfort inn in Joliet to TC. first stop, Crane’s apple orchard empire outside the sweet town of Fennville. “From your Iowa plates, you must not be part of the field trip,” said a cheerful guy directing traffic to rudimentary parking spots near the pick your own orchards. We picked our very own mutsu apples, one of my favorite breeds not readily found in Iowa and also discovered the cameo apple. We stopped nearby at the cranes cider mill and restaurant. Full of fall tourists, good not-too-sweet cider and many pie varieties. The restaurant had a clever “pie flight” with slivers of several varieties but we went on to Saugatuck, a pretty resort town I had somehow never been to. We ate lunch outside at a cute new diner called Grow. Clever food (my fresh take on a Michigan salad had Israeli couscous as well as pulled chicken, dried cherries, goat cheese and greens. Dirck had excellent fish tacos (which I don’t usually like but these had batter fried white fish, which provided some crunch and a good cause that kept them from being dry.)

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We hope to stay on our return trip at a cool Airbnb in fennville (“modern cabin in the woods”) that was booked. Next time. There appear to be some cool retro motels that are affordable. Just saw our first birch trees. Now I know we are up north!!

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Where to find used and repurposed Kimonos in Kyoto

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Hakone

Kimonos seem to be having a “fashion moment,” with fall 2016 magazines trumpeting kimonos and flowered prints as a fall fashion trend. So… click here for details about the store we went to in Kyoto that sells used and re-purposed kimonos/”designer” clothes made from old kimonos…My aunt found another good place selling “vintage” kimonos near The Philosopher’s Path/Walk in Kyoto.

 

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Hyde Park diner, walk over the Hudson, train to 125th Street

Walkway over the Hudson

Walkway over the Hudson

Another day of spectacular weather in the Hudson River Valley. After another morning hike around my friend’s beautiful 39-acre spread in Dutchess County, we went for brunch at a classic old diner, the EverReady in Hyde Park (eggs with spinach and feta…my favorite dinner fare, plus delicious grilled potatoes with onions, not your everyday hash browns, and fresh squeezed orange juice.)

I was first introduced to East Coast diners by my college friends, who would take me to their hometown favorites in Forest Hills and Long Island.  And then there is our favorite stop on the way to Ithaca from NYC or Connecticut: the great Roscoe Diner. I love the shiny metal building, the encyclopedic menu, the huge showy cakes on display and all the locals hanging out over endless cups of coffee, not to mention the patient, efficient, seen-it-all waitresses.

imageNear the train station in Poughkeepsie, we walked half way across the footbridge over the Hudson, with spectacular views of bucolic waters in the distance and industrial workaday river scenes just below us. I envied the cyclists biking past us. As promised, the almost 2 hour train ride to 125th street offered great river views most of the way and then boom, I emerged in Harlem. I didn’t have to wait long for the m60 bus to Laguardia, a rare public transportation option to the airport and a much better deal ($2.75) than the ripoff black car I am embarrassed to admit I mistook for an Uber on my arrival at Laguardia. ($71…ouch. Lesson learned. Never get in a car with an uber sign unless you’ve ordered an uber online.)

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The bus took about an hour but the first stop, surprisingly, was terminal B where my grubby southwest gate was located. Now here I am at the St. Louis  airport with a 2.5 hour late night layover (again, a big change from my mad dash here a week ago with a 50 minute connection cut in half by delays.)

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Bard college, Red Hook, Tivoli, Germantown–Rambles in and around Dutchess County

Salt point scene

Salt point scene

 


Sadly, I am a little early for the mutsu Apple crop here (due the first week of October) but I did get some good honeycrisps at a roadside stand near where I am staying Salt Point. And we have had gorgeous weather – 70s and sunny with a slight breeze.

imageWe drove past the frank Gehry-designed theatre on The Bard College campus, which looked like his building on the U of Minnesota campus.Then we drove through the nearby towns of Red Hook and Tivoli, which were sleepier than usual because, we learned, places tend to close on Wednesday. We got sandwiches at Otto’s, an old timey grocery store in Germantown where we ordered at the meat counter.

Otto's in Germantown

Otto’s in Germantown

Now sitting on the slate patio with my friends of almost 40 years, enjoying the late afternoon at this beautiful place on Allen Road that I’ve been visiting for, um, 31 years. (Some of which is soon to be available via Airbnb…)

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Salt Point, Woodstock, Hudson River, Mills estate, culinary institute of America– NY

Salt point ny

Salt point ny

Fantastic day with my old pals from London at Merida’s lovely farmhouse in Dutchess County, NY. The trees are starting to change color but it was still summer warm as we took a short walk on a ridge overlooking a beautiful valley with wooded hills in the distance. We drove about 45 minutes on narrow winding roads lined with trees and dry stone wall fences, past old red barns and cream colored farmhouses to Woodstock which still has a refreshingly old hippie vibe, decades after the famous 1969 rock festival.

Woodstock lament

Woodstock lament

THen we headed south along the Hudson at sunset to the riverfront path below the Mills mansion and Norrie State Park to take in the river scenery.image

Along the Hudson

Along the Hudson

Dinner was at Bocuse, the French restaurant that is among several available to visitors to the Culinary  institute of America in Hyde Park, which is run by students. the food was delicious, modern takes of French staples  by chef Paul Bocuse.image

Making nitro ice cream at CIA

Making nitro ice cream at CIA

Very reasonable 3 course prix fix menu for $45 in a  contemporary but warm dining room with attentive service. Passed by but didn’t have time to go on the footbridge across the Hudson starting in Poughkeepsie. Next time!

Hudson happiness

Hudson happiness

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The new Whitney Museum — NYC

On a Whitney terrace

On a Whitney terrace with One World Trade Center in the distance

Finally made it to the new location of the Whitney Museum and loved everything about it – the architecture  (Renzo Piano building with great open terraces on the upper floors with dazzling views of the Hudson River, the downtown skyscrapers and the High Line right below the museum), the neighborhood (bustling art and commerce of Chelsea and the meat packing district with designer shops and old crumbling brick streets) and of course the art. The Whitney is big on figurative contemporary art, which happens to be among my favorite.

Inside the Whitney

Inside the Whitney

We saw a really interesting retrospective of photographer Danny Lyons work and thoroughly enjoyed the 7th floor exhibit from the museums’ portrait collection. We ran out of time so couldn’t see the 6th floor of portraits (which oddly wasn’t open because they were rehanging some work). NExt trip! Also enjoyed a light lunch in the top floor cafe, a Danny Meyer restaurant.

Robert Bechtle, 61' Pontiac, 1968-69 oil on canvas

Robert Bechtle, 61′ Pontiac, 1968-69 oil on canvas

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there but for the grace…go I– missing the explosion in Chelsea (NYC)

On the High line Friday

On the High line Friday

I was in Chelsea on Friday afternoon, about 10 minutes from the sight of an explosion by some sort of homemade bomb (last I heard) on Saturday night. SObering, especially after starting my day on Friday at the 9/11 Memorial. BUt New Yorkers seemed to take it in stride and today we passed soldiers on patrol in Grand Central Station that weren’t there pre-explosion yesterday and the attitude seemed to be “whatever.”

Zahah Hadid building on High Line

Zaha Hadid building on High Line

We had a lovely day and a half in Fairfield county, attending the wedding of the son of our dear friends Myra and Mike at a pretty Greek church in Bridgeport, with a reception, dinner,Marty and dancing to music from a great live band in Monroe. SHane and Mary (Takebetsywithyou readers!) are honeymooning in Santorini and Barcelona, among other places — and two of my favorites from long  ago wandering spin the 1980s. WE chanced upon a smaller farmers market in Fairfield before taking the train back to the city where we found more farm stands at a street festival on Columbus Avenue. Tried a delicious arepa (sp?) a Columbian street food, two pancakes made of sweet corn with a little mozzarella between them, grilled. I ❤️ NY.

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9-11 Memorial, TriBeCa, Hudson Street, Highline, lobster place in Chelsea Market

9/11 Memorial

9/11 Memorial

New York was stunning today. It helped that the weather was also stunning. I took the subway down to the 9-11 Memorial, which was as impressive and moving as expected and packed with tourists from all over. Also dazzled by the white winged Oculus trainstatuin/mall that I am assuming is a Calatrava design since it looks very much like his Milwaukee Art Museum. I kept walking north, stopping at Duane street Patisserie in TriBeCa for two tiny ginger snaps, then on along Greenwich and Hudson Streets to the Highline which is highlighting its Prairie Grasses (from the American Midwest…two park people were impressed I had lived in Kansas, aka home of the tall grass prairie) and they looked stunning blowing in the wind on a sunny September day. IN Chelsea market, I seemed to be the only one among the throngs eating salmon poke but I had my heart set on poke and it was an interesting version, with crunchy white rice noodles and edamame and some other things I didn’t recognize at added crunch and a slightly picked flavor. While waiting for my order I sampled several types of seafood bisque, all delicious.

oculus

oculus

I walked all the way to the end of the Highline at 34th street and would have kept walking if my back permitted. But no dice. I ended up taking a “select” crosstown bus which was confusing. instead of inserting your metrocard on the bus, you have to insert it at a machine by the bus stop that’s akin to the machines in the subway station you used to buy a metro card. YOu press a button, insert your card which spits back out and you get a paper receipt. Then you walk onto the bus. it reminds me of similar system in Berlin and Prague where you are on the “honor system” and I was warned there of periodic checks to make sure riders have paid and you get in trouble if you’re caught.  Today, I not only had trouble figuring the system out…a very nice bus driver explained it patiently.  But at the third stop, transit police boarded the bus and checked to see that we each had slips. One flustered woman didn’t although she quickly produced her metro card. So rider beware.

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Flying the new Southwest route from DSM to NYC via St.Louis

It wasn’t bad. But it could have been. MY 50 minute connection in St. Louis was cut in half due to delays last night but fortunately the gate for my connecting flight to Laguardia was nearby (I dashed from E20 to E12.) so I arrived just as the flight was boarding.

I wasn’t pleased when Southwest changed the eastern hub for Des Moines from Chicago to st.Louis but maybe it will be okay. The flight I was on was continuing onto Newark which, if it’s a standard thing, would perhaps be easier than rushing to another airplane. The flight is only 45 minutes to st.Louis (slightly shorter than To Chicanos midway) but I am not a fan of connections under an hour. it was nice to have the outbound flight short so I had less time to worry about making my connection and more time on the second flight to relax.

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