
Where to stay in the Badlands – Cedar Pass Lodge.

Filed under South Dakota
Going Gothic, meeting a movie star in the grocery store: Southeast Iowa!
I knew this trip to southeast Iowa would be interesting but it was even more than expected. We stopped in the tiny town of Eldon Iowa and followed the occasional signs to the American Gothic house, made famous by Grant Wood who painted his famous portrait at this sweet little house with the Gothic window. The visitors center had costumes in all shapes and sizes for people who wanted to recapture the magic, so why not. I tried to produce my most dour face but not before cracking up.
We dutifully stood in line outside the house for some of the famous pile backed fresh by a woman who actually rents the house and decided to make and sell pies. The wait was ridiculously long but the pie was ridiculously good. Warm strawberry crumble pie wrapped for us in a brown paper bag with a pretty blue and white ribbon.
On to the villages of van buren county, pretty old tiny towns along the Des Moines river with stately red brick homes and mills, and then to our real destination, Fairfield. I was last here about 23 years ago and meant to return sooner. Interesting things going on here ever since the Maharishi Yogi’s representatives bought a defunct college here and made it into an internationally known center for peoplewho practice transcendental meditation. They are called “floaters” because apparently they levitate while doing TM in the golden domes on campus. There is also a Maharishi Business school here so the town’s pretty square is full of entrepreneurial efforts, ethnic restaurants (Indian, Turkish, Thai, etc) and galleries and shops. Plus there are lots of stately homes like the one we are sleeping in tonight, The Seven Roses Inn. We rode the gravel loop trail, which was fun and goes for about 15 miles. Stopped for a drink at funky cafe Paradiso, had so-so Indian food at the India cafe and went to check out the Raj spa and hotel here and the even more fascinating Vedic City, a brand new city built by TM-ers. Surprisingly lovely homes all facing east and with little nipple like ornaments on the roof in keeping with some mystic form off Vedic architecture.
Then I decide to go into the whole food grocery store at 9 pm because I always enjoy a good whole foods grocery store and there wasn’t much else to do and first thing I see: actor Jim Carey getting some of the areas famous Radiance Ice Cream (I think the cows do TM or some such). We heard he was in town today, giving the commencement speech at Maharishi U. But figured he was jetting back to LA. he couldn’t have been nicer and the day couldn’t have ended with a bigger bang.
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Filed under Iowa
Dining options during evening bike rides in Des Moines

Above is a rendering of what the Magnolia Kitchen & Grocery food truck will look like.(Photo: Special to th
In preparation for Ragbrai, we are trying to ride our bikes at least one weekday evening a week – often Tuesdays so we can eat at Tacopocalypse stand outside the Cumming Tap (in the small town of Cumming, Iowa.) But sometimes we ride on Wednesday or Thursday on the Great Western Trail south from Des Moines when tacos aren’t an option at Cumming Tap (Wednesday, we discovered last week, is steak night there, which is a bit heavy for us.)
So I was pleased to see other options available in Jennifer Miller’s latest excellent food column for the Des Moines Register. See below! They’re not in Cumming but they are along our bike route, which includes Gray’s Lake (where Confluence Brewing is located) and the trail at 63rd and Grand (where Pal Joey’s Lounge is).
Here’s the options:
TUESDAY Magnolia Kitchen & Grocery at Pal Joey’s Lounge; Tacopacalypse at Cumming Tap
WEDNESDAY Magnolia Kitchen & Grocery at Confluence Brewing
THURSDAY Magnolia Kitchen & Grocery at 515 Brewing on Friday evenings or The Levee, patio on the east end of Court Avenue. Woody’s Smoke Shack food, and Confluence beers. open 4 p.m. to midnight Thursday.
FRIDAY The Levee, patio on the east end of Court Avenue. Woody’s Smoke Shack food, and Confluence beers. open 4 p.m. to midnight Thursday.
SATURDAY The Levee, patio on the east end of Court Avenue. Woody’s Smoke Shack food, and Confluence beers. open 9 p.m. to midnight
Filed under bike trails, biking, Des Moines, DINING
Dark Matter, Andy’s Thai Kitchen, the best photo location – Chicago
Went to a very good coffee house – if you like your coffee very strong and dark – in Chicago’s Ukrainian Village on Saturday called Dark Matter. Classic hipster hangout – edgy decor and clientele (except, perhaps for me…). Also returned to Andy’s Thai Kitchen which continues to impress. Only wish Andy accepted credit cards. Yet again, we were scrounging around for cash to pay. But for four of us, the bill was a remarkably reasonable $15 each. (The crispy pork belly is to die for; also the icky-sounding pork neck is delicious; also liked the squid appetizer with a tangy dipping sauce and the very spicy panang curry).
I took my adorable almost 2-year-old niece Lucy, who was visiting from Los Angeles, on a long walk on a beautiful Sunday morning, north on Astor Street, past all the lovely old homes with beautiful tulips, hydrangea, pansies and rhododendrons in orange, red, yellow, dusty blue-purple and pink into the park and across the bridge that goes above the rushing traffic on Lake Shore Drive. Along the lake front we watched all the action – a large group of people doing odd calisthenics, very fit shirt-less guys pounding volleyballs, runners, bikers, and I took a photo of Lucy (looking somewhat befuddled or irritated) at my favorite quintessential Chicago skyline location! City never looked better!
Filed under Chicago
Eatery A – Malo – Des Moines!
Eatery A was as busy and noisy on a Saturday night as expected last weekend – also fun and good food so that helped. Located in a former Blockbuster video store on Ingersoll Avenue in Des Moines, the restaurant is a mashup of middle eastern and Italian from what I can tell. Lots of lamb, pizza, harissa, figs, dates, feta. We ordered a few too many things with figs – including a pizza with figs and proscuitto and greens and a green salad with figs. But the lamb sliders were excellent as was the “cucumber salad” – although it was more delicate fresh greens, including a free mint leaves, with some cucumber slices, feta, pomegrate seeds and a tangy lemon dressing. The desserts were interesting – we had “donuts” served with lemon curd, which were a bit like beignets, light fried dough dusted with sugar and a cake made with cornmeal or polenta that had an odd but interesting crunchy texture, served with a dollop of very good dark chocolate ice cream. The decor is lots of distressed wood that looks like it’s from an old barn and fun chandeliers. It was a bit too dark to be able to read the menu – especially the red section of the menu. We had to use our cellphone flashlights. We’ll be back.
We also peaked in at Malo, the new Latin restaurant opening this week in the way cool new former 1930’s firehouse location of the Des Moines Social Club – how great to have all these new options in Des Moines. We also wandered over to nearby West End Architectural Salvage, which had some great albeit pricey crafts including some terrific bags made out of old seed corn bags.
Filed under Des Moines, DINING
Midtown Greenway in Minneapolis
We were very impressed last weekend with the Midtown Greenway, a 5.5 mile former railroad bed that runs across the southern bit of Minneapolis. It’s largely hidden from view (we had a hard time finding it from the trail along the Mississippi river) but is packed with people and runs parallel to Lake Street, past some cool places worth jumping off to visit including the Midtown Global Market. It took us right to South Bryant Street, where our b&b is and where we also found that by heading north, you go over a very handy bike bridge that leads right to Loring Park and downtown.
The Midtown Greenery on a brisk Sunday morning was full of bike riders, from older folks to families to hipsters with the prerequisite full-arm tattoos and pierces.
American Swedish Institute and Room and Board Outlet – Minneapolis!
We followed a Volvo into the parking lot and parked our Ford next to a Saab – which seemed like an appropriate way of arriving at the American Swedish Institute in Minneapolis. The museum is a hybrid of an elegant over-the-top 19th century Turnblad Mansion with rococo ceilings, elaborately carved mahogany woodwork and the most remarkable assortment of tiled stoves I’ve seen, plus an equally elegant but very spare Scandinavian modern wing with pristine white walls and spotless floors and pale wood.
As expected, the exhibit we saw of exquisite papercuts (the art of “psaligraphy”) by Danish-Norwegian artist Karen Bit Vejle were remarkable – huge, intricate, lovely, I cannot imagine how she does such lovely things with a small pair of scissors. The papercuts were exhibited in both the modern wing and scattered around the mansion, which was cool. We also were impressed with the paper cuts (see below) of St. Paul artist Cindy McKeen, who studied at Grinnell and at Drake and whose work was reportedly influenced by her rural Iowa childhood. I found out later her work is on sale at Ingebretsen’s, the well-known Scandinavian Gift shop in Minneapolis.
The day before, we went to the Room and Board Outlet in nearby Golden Valley – and I found EXACTLY the chair I was looking for (or pretty darned close!) for $600 off the catalog price. How amazing is that? We saved an extra $100 or so on shipping. I am a longtime fan of Room and Board but never knew there was an outlet – this is the only one in the country and it’s only open on Saturday and Sunday. The place was packed and as I wandered around looking for “my chair” – I suddenly spotted it in a remote area of the cavernous warehouse, surrounded by couches similar to the I bought for full price a few years ago. But another woman spotted “my chair” too and promptly sat on it. I waited nervously for her to leave then jumped into it and held on for dear life until my husband arrived and could go fetch a salesclerk. It was the only one in the whole place!
Filed under Minneapolis, Minnesota, museum exhibit
Minneapolis by bike, the lakes, minnehaha falls, river; be’witched, salty tart, room and board outlet
fantastic day riding our bikes around the lakes in Minneapolis. Sure it could have been a little warmer, but it did get up to 55, which is practically a heat wave here and it was sunny, most of the time. We have long wanted to bring our bikes here to try out the nation’s most bike-friendly city, or so it’s been called (although a couple from Portland, Oregon who we met today at our b&b weren’t sure if it could beat Portland.
must admit it beat Des Moines, much as I am a fan our our trails. These are just so well laid out and organized, with two trails, one for bikes, one for walkers, most of the time – at least on the portion of the grand round trail we rode.
then the scenery! I am still deciding which lake I want to live along, not to mention which of the many mansions and lovely homes. We rode from the lake of the isles to lake Calhoun and lake harriet(which as a very Nordic looking bandshell and then along a winding creek full of water, bordered by a parkway with more lovely homes to minnehaha falls which was full of water that came crashing down into the creek. There were still some very solid blocks of snow down there.
we rode north along the Mississippi! past the first lock and dam; the frank gehry-designed museum at u of Minnesota ((which doesn’t look as shiny as it once did) and then to the super cool new Guthrie theater with the navy blue cantilever deck and behind it the old Gold Medal Flour mill that’s become a museum. the mill “ruins” park with the shell of an old building is on my list to check out more. We kept riding to the warehouse district and north loop where we tried be’witched sandwich shop (on washington age) and were more impressed with it than last time. Excellent pastrami sandwich and pulled pork sandwich.
We rode back to our Lowrey hill b&b through downtown on Nicollet Mall(good place for cyclists) , stopping to wave to the Mary Tyler Moore sculpture (or Mary Richards) then thru loring park and over the way cool siah aramanji bridge over one of the worlds more confusing intersections, past the sculpture garden and the Walker art center? great and pretty flat and easy ride.
Filed under Minneapolis, Minnesota, Uncategorized
back in Minneapolis– evelo’s and spyglass coffee in uptown and Salty Tart
nice to be back in Minneapolis after three years. We stayed at our favorite b&b which we found 24 years ago, Evelo’s, an old charming house with parquet floors, shabby chic furnishings and a gorgeous collection of art nouveau Tiffany stained glass lamps. The owners were at the opera until 11 so we easily killed a half hour at the spyglass coffee house, nearby on Hennepin. bit precious but the coffee really was impressive (mine supposedly had a hint of s’mores which we decided would probably taste like a charred marshmallow with a little bit of grass on it after having fallen off the stick I dangled over the fire. Didn’t pick up that hint.)
On Saturday afternoon we went to the Salty Tart Bakery in the Midtown Global market, an international bazaar of sorts in a cool old former Sears store. The bakery was sadly out of its famous brioche. Not to worry, they appeared at breakfast at Evelo’s on Sunday.
Filed under Minneapolis, Minnesota





