Flying the new Southwest route from DSM to NYC via St.Louis

It wasn’t bad. But it could have been. MY 50 minute connection in St. Louis was cut in half due to delays last night but fortunately the gate for my connecting flight to Laguardia was nearby (I dashed from E20 to E12.) so I arrived just as the flight was boarding.

I wasn’t pleased when Southwest changed the eastern hub for Des Moines from Chicago to st.Louis but maybe it will be okay. The flight I was on was continuing onto Newark which, if it’s a standard thing, would perhaps be easier than rushing to another airplane. The flight is only 45 minutes to st.Louis (slightly shorter than To Chicanos midway) but I am not a fan of connections under an hour. it was nice to have the outbound flight short so I had less time to worry about making my connection and more time on the second flight to relax.

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Good bagels in Des Moines area!

I confess: I’m a bagel snob. But the new  5 Borough Bagels in Clive is the real deal (“New York-style” although I’ve never seen a “French Toast” bagel in NYC. It’s not bad.)

Just hoping Iowans appreciate and keep these young bagel entrepreneurs in business! They even offer onion bialys, which are heavier than I’m used to but delicious.

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Unexpected Ride along the Wapsi-Great Western Line Trail  – Northeast Iowa

imageThe weather didn’t cooperate on Labor Day — it rained in the morning in Lanesboro – so we scrapped our original plan to ride a third leg of the Root River Trail (from Lanesboro to Fountain , or another option – Lanesboro to Preston or Harmony) and drove south to sunnier skies and another bike trail in Iowa. We found both – sort of (there was sun but also thunder, lightening and clouds in the distance that fortunately didn’t result in rain) – in Riceville, Ia, where we hopped on the very pleasant Wapsi-Great Western Line Trail, riding through forested corridors lining corn fields and then through open cornfields, past Amish farms. There was scenery to delight both me as a Michigan native (a rare, for Iowa, strand of Birch trees) and Dirck, as a native Kansan (prairie, with yellow and purple flowers.)

prairie grass!

prairie grass!

To do a loop, we did have to ride on a country road but noticed that some Amish cyclists we passed were taking the same approach as us – riding in the oncoming traffic lane so we could see the rare car coming our way and get out of the way. It seemed safer than having the traffic to our back, even if it may have taken the oncoming driver by surprise.

Birch trees!

Birch trees!

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Peterson-Houston portion of the Root River Trail, Aroma Pie Shoppe in Whalan, Habberstad House, Old Victorian Hall Restaurant — Southeast Minnesota  

The eastern section of The Root River Trail was also well worth riding and less traveled. The trail asphalt is rougher, especially the five miles between Peterson and Rushford but Minnesota is on it…the section is slated for replacing this month. There also is a steep uphill and downhill between Miles 37 and 38, as forwarned, but it wasn’t too bad and we are used to more ups and downs on other trails.  For families with little kids, Houston has a neat nature playground and near Whalan is a low key miniature golf course. We did backtrack to Whalan to stop at Aroma Pie Shoppe, which come much recommended. At 4 pm there was little left so we tried two kinds of pies we have never had before, both very good: sourcream raisen and Vermont maple (as sweet as pecan pie, with coconut). Dinner was good at  Old Village Hall Restaurant where we ate on the patio on a perfect summer night. I was glad we stayed one night in town (at the lovely old Habberstad b&b, in the Orchid Room) especially so we could get a feel for the place once it has quieted down. IT was nice to walk back to the inn along quiet residential streets at night after dinner.

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Airbnb/Java Johns/Oneota Coop in Decorah

We made a quick stop in Decorah during our Lanesboro, MN trip. Not long enough unfortunately to visit the Agora Arts gallery. BUt we did find a good Airbnb just south of town that was very easy Ina no out, clean and affordable $56. And we found one coffee house (among several) open on Sunday morning — thank you Java John’s. The Oneota Co-op also was open at 10 am so we lingered long enough to get picnic supplies there.

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Root River Trail, Pedal Pusher Cafe in Lanesboro, MN  Burdy’s Cafe nearby and Decorah, IA (Topping Goliath)

Peterson, MN

WE finally made it to southeast Minnesota to ride our bikes along the much-touted Root River Trail and it was as lovely (and easy to ride) as advertised– at least the 15 mile stretch from Lanesboro east through the tiny town of Whalan (with its famous pie shop) and the slightly less tiny town of Peterson, where we had excellent pie at Burdy’s Cafe, an unassuming little place with cheerful teenage girls as our servers. The trail was largely flat but not dull. It follows the wide,often fast moving river for the most part, through woods and fields, past picture perfect old farmsteads, tidy towns and wooded stone bluffs.  We also lucked out with the weather, low 70s, sun but cloud cover.

Lanesboro’s main drag was packed with people, cars and bikes but not awful. It’s lined with wellkept old brick storefronts. It’s not as well heeled as, say, Stockholm, Wisconsin or ticky tacky as, say, places I won’t mention.It has a nice local art gallery, a popular ice cream shop and the Pedal Pusher’s cafe, which has a hearty Minnesota vibe (the Norwegian meatballs were already sold out when we arrived at 6 pm). We picnicked for lunch in the city park, overlooking a little pond where people were fishing and families pitched tents. We particularly appreciated the public bathrooms there, at the library, with pay showers (who knew?), where we changed into our biking gear.

TOnight we are 45 miles south in Decorah, one of our favorite places in Iowa, staying at a pleasant and affordable Airbnb ($53) on a rural highway outside town. We stopped in town for ice cream and beer at Topping Goliath, an award winning local brewery. or so Dirck tells me.

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Hollywood beach, Rogers Park social club, Shaw’s — Chicago

So glad I didn’t spend this gorgeous day in the car driving home to Des Moines. Instead I got a long awaited swim in a lake, which I have been longing to do all summer. Better late than never and had a great swim in Lake Michigan at Hollywood Beach, a pleasant stretch of sand a short walk from where Emma and Rocket live in Edgewater — another great thing about their neighborhood!

Later we went to a funky place called the Rodgers park social club and made our own at the excellent Bloody Mary bar, which came with a chaser of beer or cider. Explored the neighborhood a little- a food store with lots of Midwestern products (and a shopkeeper from royal oak, Michigan …my hometown area; a little sculpture garden. Tonight we had a great dinner at Shaw’s where I tried a new dish that was as good as my aunt said it was – fresh grilled tuna in a soy ginger sauce with crispy thin sliced potatoes and chives.

Great to see our longtime family friend  from Pennsylvania, Marjorie V., after so long.

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DIA, Chartreuse, exploring Detroit!

We began the morning with the world’s best bagels (sorry NYC)…Detroit bagels, which are smaller and chewier than New York’s,and the onion bagel has the onion bits baked mixed into the batter, not burnt bits on the outside. The egg bagels are superb too.  But irony of  ironies, the bagel store on Woodward Near Ferndale has the unfortunate name, New York Bagels.

We took Noah for his first viewing of the famous Diego Rivera mural at the Detroit Institute of Art (DIA), which was even better than I remembered from years ago. A knowledgeable docent was conveniently stationed in the courtyard and provided all kinds of interesting information, including where to find Diego himself among the workers and the comic book character Dick Tracy. We also saw a really fun photography show on American Road trips.

Dinner was at Chartreuse, a charming place on Woodward near the DIA, with a rustic earthy decor (and lots of chartreuse) and inventive food, using fresh produce and local products. We had delicious ribs (with” togarashi, soy mirin glaze, raw potato and seaweed salad”) and pork (Niman ranch tenderloin, clover fed pork shoulder, salsa verde, cheddar jalapeño grits, black beans, radish), good appetizers and dessert. And I bumped into my high school choral director who I hadn’t seen in years. Another treat!

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Back to Royal Oak – Leo’s (Schoop’s in Michigan city)

Well at least we got Leo’s done right away. (Below) My son and dad are fans, especially of the Coney Island. En route to Detroit from Chicago we stopped for a good breakfast at schoopp’s  (way below) imagein Michigan City Indiana, off I 94. (We went there years ago and have never been clear on the right exit.)image

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Two new (to us) restaurants on Chicago’s Gold Coast

chicpix2We had some good meals at two restaurants on Chicago’s Gold Coast, off of Division, earlier this week:

  • Nico Osterio, on Rush, was a pleasant spot for a reunion with a long-lost cousin. Light Italian fare for lunch. Good salads (tuna raw, kale chopped) and sandwiches (tuna, canned) although some of our party liked our meals more than others. (Yes, I’m talking about you Mike.)
  • chicpix4
  • Eduardo Enoteca, which pleased all. Small rustic interior, sunny front patio on relatively quiet street (Dearborn). We shared lots of small plates (excellent brussel sprouts, with pancetta and caramelized garlic;  okay cauliflower, spicy but somehow bland) a thin crust pizza with pancetta and wild mushrooms, cheesier (mozzarella) than expected but still good, springy ramen-like pasta with a light sauce of lemon, pepper, Parmesan and rosemary.  I particularly appreciated the bottomless glasses of fresh lemonade on a hot summer day and the four-year-old amongst us enjoyed her lemon ice cream! And I forgot about our chopped salad with raw tuna…so maybe it was forgettable? The menu also included bresaola (a beef version of proscuitto), which I love but didn’t detect similar enthusiasm from my fellow dinners. Next time.
    Nearby Eduardo's

    Nearby Eduardo’s

    chicpix1

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