In our tiny room in Tokyo

Dirck tries out his onsen robr

Dirck tries out his onsen robe

We haven’t been in this small a room since Bordeaux in 2006 but it’s what we expected from our “inexpensive” hotel (which cost about 22,000 yen or  $220). Unexpected was a really nice onsen, or public bath, for women only that I found very relaxing after a very long day and flight.  I knew the flight was long when I realized after the first six hours that I’d be in London, by then. Instead we had five more hours to go. This on top of two hours waiting nervously in the Des Moines airport, which was dealing with pop-up summer storms, and two hours in Minneapolis, after the one-hour flight from Des Moines.

So far so good with my bum back post-flight. I made sure to get up every few hours to do odd stretches in a relatively clear space near the bathroom (in front of rows of passengers). I wasn’t alone. There were a few other Japanese people doing stretches, foot-stomping and what look d like Tai Chi. Delta was impressive, especially after our dismal Air Canada flight to Lisbon last year. Great entertainment system, lots of movies, music (Deer Hunter, Fritz and the Tantrums) and cool flight tracker map that showed us just north of Kodiak, Alaska during one check.

We took the Narita Express train into Tokyo Station, as our Japanese friend Tom suggested, and although it was much more expensive (62,000 yen/$62 for two) than other options like the bus,  it was very efficient and we were eager to get to our hotel. We were hugely impressed by the fastidiousness of the train. When it pulled up at the airport and passengers got off, we had to wait while men carefully cleaned the floors and dusted. Imagine that happening on the Long Island Railroad at Penn Station.

Tokyo Station was as bustling as expected but we managed to find the tour office where we picked up our discounted tickets for the bullet train to Tokyo tomorrow and after a little bit of wandering we chanced upon the hotel we had reserved, Super Lohas Tokyo, which is very pleasant. We ate delicious tonkatsu (pork cutlets from black pigs) at a branch of Maisen, the famous tonkatsu place that is conveniently located in a department store next to Tokyo station. Exhausted and must get to bed.

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highlights and misc: Jackson Hole, SLCity and beyond June 2016

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

Best Luxury Resort we cannot afford to stay at again: Amangani in Jackson Hole

Best air bnb we can afford to stay at again (if it’s still an air bnb): Kelly, Wyoming (I won’t reveal more than that.)

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

Best Airbnb dog: Grace (in Kelly)

Best Airbnb host and kids: Kelly again

Best breakfast out: huevos rancheros at Nora’s Fish Creek in Wilson

Best breakfast in: Kelly air bnb (brioche and granola from Persephone bakery; Pearl street bagels)

Best breakfast food and scenery: the overlook at the Amangani

Best room patio and view: amangani (and best electric powered window shades)

Best deck (top and bottom floor)  views: Kelly

Best sandwiches: The Kelly at Gros Ventre (grow vant) roast beef, Vermont cheddar, on marble rye with horseradish and spicy mustard.

Best raspberry milkshake: Le Beau’s at Bear Lake

Best ethnic fare: Mazza (middle eastern) in salt lake. (The Himalayan kitchen wasn’t bad but their medium is spicy in our book)

Best steak and s’mores and band: rehearsal dinner, Spring creek ranch

Best Pool: amangani, preferably all to ourselves at night under a full moon or at daybreak with my sweet niece Lucy

Bluest Waters: Bear Lake (Utah/Idaho)

Best Hike: hard to say…Jenny lake inspiration point to cascade canyon, maybe although ski lake hike from Wilson good and hike from our bnb along the rushing river

Best drive: again hard to say 191-89 out along Teton range or gros ventre road east of Kelly or 89 between Logan and garden city Utah

Near AnselAdams shot, Tetons

Near AnselAdams shot, Tetons

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Air bnbs in Utah and Wyoming: Pros and a few cons

SLC air bnb 1st street

SLC air bnb 1st street

This was our first trip relying on air bnb lodging and overall, a very positive experience. Kind of takes me back to staying at B and Bs in England in the early 1980s, when they were an affordable spare room in someone’s house rather than a pricey  inn experience with sometimes uncomfortable shared breakfast dining with other guests.

At their best, the air bnbs are not only affordable and interesting accommodation but offer a slight glimpse into how life is lived in the place you’re visiting, which is what I like the most about them. You get to talk to people, find out what life is like, the politics, schools, neighborhood concerns. And you get great tips on where to hike and eat and shop,  what to see.

SLC 1901 bnb

SLC 1901 bnb

The two places we stayed in Salt Lake City were each run by attractive single women who each seemed to have helpful boyfriends and a strong fixer upper mentality and design sense  (which may be a functioning of what I look for when thumbing through the listings). Both were in leafy old neighborhoods revived by young people, in early 1900’s homes, with old wood, glass, brick,  but also contemporary art and furnishings (except for the claw foot tubes, which are charming but tricky for older folks in particular to get in and out of.) Both were about the same price $84/$75 for a room for two. WHile the first one had lots of antiques and walls filled with paintings (the owner paints) the second one was very spare with mostly white walls, muslin curtains, earth-toned nubby hall liners, very Scandinavian (the owner is from Sweden). The first one gave us free reign of her kitchen and refrigerator for breakfast; the second one didn’t offer any food  (but there was a good coffee house, the red moose, a block away.) With each, we had lots of freedom and no overbearing hosts, just the opposite. It was sort of amazing that both hosts left while we were there. pretty trusting considering that we were total strangers. (Although I guess we didn’t look too dodgy, and “discriminating” hosts can decline guests, which I gather can cause discrimination issues and charges of racism, sexism, other isms.)

Kelly air bnb

Kelly air bnb

A few downsides: for older or physically limited travelers, hauling suitcases up steep wooden staircases can be challenging; then there is the aforementioned claw foot bathtubs. And at our second SLC bnb, there was a rather dangerous (in the dark) sheer drop staircase at the end of the hall next to the bathroom. One false step during an evening bathroom run could lead to a tumble. (I would have been particularly worried if Traveling with a young child.)

Kelly deck

Kelly deck

Our third experience in Kelly was a whole other ballgame, since we rented an entire house for a family vacation rather than a room for two. It wasn’t particularly cheap and was not unlike other rentals we have done through VRBO and HomeAway and way back in the widespread pre-Internet 1990s, through newspaper classified listings. But we got to know the owners and their kids and they had tons of great suggestions and when we left, we felt like we were saying goodbye to friends (unlike the SLC digs where we never really said goodbye, we just let ourselves out in the morning and left the key behind).

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Kelly Wyoming: gros ventre road, deli, Jenny Lake, Kelly warm spring

gros ventre road

gros ventre road

Still in paradise and blogging from the rooftop deck of our cottage, with green pastures and sun still shining strong at 6:39 pm above the jagged, snow-capped Tetons. YEsterday we took a scenic drive conveniently located just outside Kelly along gros ventre road, stopping at Kelly Warm Spring which unlike most of the bodies of water here is warm enough to wade into (although there is a little E. coli risk we learned), then drove up and up a rustic road past dude ranches and forests and red rocks the reminded us of Sedona, stopping at lower slide and upper slide lake overlooks. Stunning views. We turned around awhile after the road turned to gravel.  We had excellent sandwiches at the one business in Kelly, a deli and coffees shop called Kelly at the Gros Ventre, one of three cabins (the other two are the post office and the home of the deli owners, who are very cheerful welcoming folks.

gros ventre road

gros ventre road

dirck and I wandered into Jackson to pick up provisions, stopping for brioche at Persephone Bakery and at Pearl street Bagels and Smiths grocery store.  It stays light so late in the day that we had time for a walk along the roaring river behind Kelly, accompanied by Grace, the sweet dog. we grilled out for dinner and the teenagers who live here gave our “kids” a tour of their treehouse. THis place has been an incredible find – owned by Amber and Michael Hoover. ITs also very easy to get to the airport, which is even closer from here than from Jackson (although you’d never know it.)

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

After returning to paved road near Antelope Flats

We had a great day exploring Grand Teton Park although it start d on a somewhat nerve wracking note when we found ourselves driving on a very rutted gravel road, paralleling the Teton range. We were very happy to return to paved road, finally. WE took the boat across Jenny Lake and hiked 2.5 hours up past inspiration point and onto Cascade Canyon. One of the best hikes I’ve done, not only because of the alpine scenery but the thoroughly pleasant weather. 79s, sunny, breezy, no humidity. it started a bit uphill but nothing too steep, and the trail went across and along a rushing torrent of aqua ice blue water into a canyon lined with vast craggy mountains, some with waterfalls spilling down from crevices.

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

Ansel Adams photo site (with people and via cellphone)

After a return boat ride, we took the pretty wooded two lane moose Wilson road to Teton village and had a late lunch at tthe Mangey Moose, overlooking the ski slopes and tram. I am glad I decided not to stay in a condo there. our place is much more charming. We drove back north onto highway 191 and passed two famous overlooks, one where Ansel Adams took his iconic photo of the snake river snaking in front of the Teton range. And we finally saw some wildlife– buffalo, antelopes, but no moose. Next time. And I hope there is a next time.

Cascade Canyon above Jenny Lake

Cascade Canyon above Jenny Lake

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Morning in Kelly, Wyoming – recap of wedding and drive from Salt Lake

Blue sky, green pastures, snow capped jagged mountains pushing up against this tiny town, about 20 minutes north of Jackson Hole. That’s the view from the second floor deck of the rustic “cottage” we are staying in for a few days. it is very different from the Amangani, the fanciest place we have ever stayed. But it’s just as spectacular in its own way. I cannot get enough of the landscape here or the cool, clear air. Or the alpine vegetation, the shimmering Aspen leaves, the meadows with yellow, blue and purple flowers.

A rooster is crowing outside but otherwise it’s quiet. A few chickens are scurrying around and a dog running free. We are on a little compound in this cottage filled with Afghani rungs, animal pellets, wood walls, ceramic tiles…tasteful , warm, the castoffs of a wanderer (in this case, a wildlife photographer who used to be a hot journalist in far away places). Cannot wait to explore the tiny town and the mountains, lakes and hot springs nearby.

For future reference: places we’ve been in the last three days: Salt Lake City (Mormon Temple at night, Mazza for middle eastern food) Natalie’s Airbnb on 1st between N and M Streets; 4.5 hour drive to Jackson from Salt Lake on 89 off I 15 thru Logan (home of Utah state), Garden City, Utah (LaBeau’s of Bear Lake) for raspberry shakes and even better, a reunification n with my niece Lucy and her parents), turquoise blue waters of Bear Lake, a little Caribbean in the Rockies, driving through northeast Utah into southeast Idaho past some tiny real towns as opposed to tourist towns) like Montpelier and then into Wyoming through Afton (thru the antler archway and past the ticky tacky log cabin motel where Lolita, of Nabokov fame, holed up with her creepy old man) and then onto Jackson (the amazingly elegant Amangani Resort, nearby Spring Creek Ranch, dancing to great bands and djs, swimming with Dirck in a long stone pool at night under a full moon with stars, hiking north of Wilson on the ski lake trail) huevos rancheros at Nora’s Fish Creek, a float on the snake river, the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar.)

Today I’d like to see a moose.

 

 

 

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Chicago’s Miami-esque strip

chicagoMay20162.JPGI’ve always thought the area just beyond Lake Shore Drive on Sheridan Road in Chicago looks more like Miami than the Windy City, with its old school highrises blocking the lake views, with names like “Malibu” and “Tiara.” So it was interesting to finally see what the public beach looks like beyond those highrises.  Gorgeous views of the endless water and to  the south, the towers of downtown Chicago looking like a glittering, far-away Oz.

We’re accustomed to a much closer view of downtown – from North Beach near my Aunt’s “Gold Coast” apartment. But the Edgewater neighborhood’s view is lovely in its own way – sort of a reminder of the leafy, relatively quiet neighborhood’s distance (but also proximity) to Chicago’s more hardcore urban downtown. We visited three small patches of beachfront – one by a Jewish temple that I’d never noticed before, whose sanctuary must have one of the best views in the city. There’s a little cafe at one beach, a snack bar at another with handy and fairly clean public bathrooms. Not many people were swimming but  families and couples and other groups picnicked on the grass, played catch in the sand and admired the view on a rare holiday weekend when Chicago weather was at its best.

If you go: along N. Sheridan

Berger Park (with the Waterfront Cafe) north of Granville Ave.

Lane Beach Park (near Thorndale Ave.)

Hollywood Beach and Kathy Osterman Beach House (and snack bar), north of Hollywood Ave.

chicagoMay2016.JPG

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Terzo Piano, Maggie Daley Park– Chicago

  • EimageAnother gorgeous day in Chicago and we had a great vantage point to see the Big City in all its glory– Terzo Piano, the sleek all white and windowed restaurant in architect Renzo Piano’s new  wing of the Chicago Art Institute. A wedding party commadered the terrace but we had a fine view of the skyline and throngs of Sunday saunterers in Millenium park from the restaurant. Good food too – hearty bloody Mary’s served with a chunk of cheese, sausage and olive on a toothpick, the rim of the glass dusted with Aleppo pepper (which apparently is from Aleppo, Syria and getting harder to get as a result of the unending war there….and now, awkward transition, back to our relatively carefree existence…) Brunch was reasonably priced (apparently compared to other meals there) and delicious. I had brioche French toast, others had lox and bagel; biscuits and gravy, eggs with the best kale chips I’ve eaten (and I generally don’t eat them.)image image

We looked at a Gordon parks photo exhibit then took the cool elevated walkway over to the lovely gardens in Millenium park ((lots of purple and green and the occasional dazzling red poppies). Tons of bicyclists around (a reminder that someday we’d like to ride the bike the drive event, which took place today on lake shore drive. one fashion trend we have noticed this trip. Men wapearing heavy leather harnesses around their upper torso. Why?

ere

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Furama Dim Sum, Lickety Split, Big Jones, Foursided: hanging out in Chicago ‘s Andersonville/Edgewater

Edgewater living

Edgewater living

Great day exploring the Edgewater/Andersonville neighborhood surrounding our “kids” great new digs in Chicago.image THey bought a lovely condo in  100 year old brick building on a leafy street with a great deck in the back overlooking neighbors gardens and old housetops.

Lickety

Lickety split

Feels like an oasis from urban life but smack dab of n the big city too. We had good dim sum at old time place, Furama (get the crispy, fried stuff more than the gooey boiled stuff), frozen custard at Lickety Split, also on Broadway, and incredibly crispy but not greasy fried chicken at Big jones, which does lots of other southern staples. bought some cards and paper goods at Foursided. PErfect day.

Dim sum anyone

Dim sum anyone

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Hoq Restaurant in DSM not so Hot

I’m beginning to sound like the town sourpuss but yet another meh meal at one of Des Moines’ up-and-coming (or maybe not) restaurant. Hoq promises farm-to-table ingredients which this time of year apparently means that almost everything was made with asparagus, which fortunately is a vegetable we like but not in excess. My major complaint is that the food is overpriced. I had two tiny lambchops with asparagus and little cubes of potatoes for $36 (good flavor but grassfed so tough and not cooked medium rare as requested – one of mine was fine, the other well-done; one of our companions got two very rare chops and complained sufficiently to get his order knocked off the bill). D’s steak was a better entree – a big hunk of meat also served with asparagus (this time bacon-wrapped) and what looked like the same potato cubes that came with the lamb. N’s salmon looked good and she had no complaints. I think though there’s a reason the place was mostly empty on a Friday night. The food should be exceptional for the prices charged and it wasn’t.

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Great decor – meh food…Des Moines

I hope this isn’t a trend but yet again, we’ve gone to a new restaurant in Des Moines hopeful and left disappointed. Great decor in a cool old building downtown. Very unexceptional food. We probably won’t return. In the case of last night, we thought +39, an Italian restaurant in a beautifully renovated old building across from the sculpture garden would be interesting contemporary Italian  – which sadly we haven’t found in Des Moines to date – because the owner is from Italy and allegedly had a restaurant in Sardinia (as well as Ames, Ia.) But nothing we had was interesting or even particularly good – and in many cases it wasn’t even hot (cold pizza, cold pasta, even cold cappuccino) which was disappointing on a surprisingly wet cold May evening.  The raspberry gelato was indeed cold but it had the texture of ice cream. Good ice cream but not gelato.  This is the third restaurant we’ve been to lately in downtown Des Moines that looked great but tasted bland. I’d rather have bland decor and great food. Or better yet – great decor and food!

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