Category Archives: Uncategorized

Newberry Library/West Side Story at the Lyric Opera House/eating at the Ritz – Chicago

I had an interview with someone who works at The Newberry Library located in an elegant old mansion in Chicago, just west of the Gold Coast. I wandered around afterward and particularly enjoyed the gift shop, which has a great selection of Chicago books and cards. I also peeked in on an exhibit about dance in Chicago, including g a poster from the early days of Hubbard Street Dance, one of my favorite companies.

In the evening, a real treat courtesy of my sister — a live performance of “west side story” in the also elegant Lyric Opera House, which I had never been inside. We played it safe with our pre-theater meal and ate in the restaurant in the Lyric which was fine and best of all, quick. The show was fantastic – the “Maria” had the most glorious voice, the dancing was great, the sets and costumes and live orchestra all great too. I didn’t want it to end.

Today, for one last hurrah, my Aunt MAT took me for a delicious lunch at the classy restaurant in the Ritz Carlton. Not too shabby! And now, here at O’Hare, my carryon under-the-seat-only bag with the cheapest fare (aka basic) appears to have passed muster. What a memorable and action-packed trip to Chicago! Thx to my family there!!!

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Manet at the Chicago art institute, shake shack/Chicago Athletic Association /mon ami Gabi/rain — Chicago

Some of my favorite Manet paintings are not in the new show at the Art Institute of Chicago but that’s okay because 1) I look at them all the time (the poster versions of Olympia and The Balcony) 2) there was so much else to see. The show is small, much smaller than the Bonnard show at The Tate Modern in London that I went to in March. But the lovely colorful portraits of elegantly dressed women and still lives of flowers bounced off the walls. Being in rooms full of these paintings made me happy, although they were painted during a sad period in Manet’s life, when he was sick and nearing death.

We also popped into a nearby room full of American painter’s work including Grant Wood’s American Gothic, a famous Edward Hopper and other great works by Georgia O’keefe, Diego Rivera and Thomas Hart Benton. A few user tips: I was glad we bought fast pass tickets online a few hours before we arrived. Saved us from standing in a long line. What I should have done was bought a membership for $70, rather than tix to the museum/special exhibit which cost $84 for two of us. (I need to do the math to see what it costs to bring a guest as a member.) Members also get discounts at the museum store which has some gear stuff, including jewelry by Chicago artists. And of course members can keep coming back without further payment.

Inside The Chicago Athletic Club

After lunch we went to the Shake Shack across from the museum to accommodate pregnant Emma, who was craving a burger. I had a small “smoke shack” burger with bacon and some sort of sauce with hot peppers. Spicy and delicious. We roamed around the spectacular old world elegant Chicago Athletic Association. (A retro-looking Shake Shack is on the ground floor) which is now a very cool hotel and took in the glorious Chicago view from the balcony on the top floor restaurant Cindy’s. (Note to self: Go on a free 2 pm tour of the building.)

Dinner (yet another birthday fete) was steak frites and Cesar salad at Mon Ami Gabi, followed by a driving tour in the rain by a friend of MAT’s of the gardend and zoo in Lincoln Park, which somehow I have not yet managed to visit. The lily Pond there comes much recommended.

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Bike the Drive/Logan Square Bang Bang Pie Shop —Chicago

Yes, Bike the Drive was definitely worth getting up at 5:30 a.m.. The chance to ride a bike along Lake Shore Drive with nothing except other bikes, albeit thousands of them, was much-appreciated. The annual event was orderly and well-organized, with lots of helpful volunteers, very little red tape or lines, and plenty of free food (bananas, apples, cliff bars, even designer coffee.) I was riding a borrowed 6-speed Schwinn with a very comfortable wide seat. The only minor challenge was making it up several minor inclines. Otherwise the route was flat and very scenic. I spotted sights along “LSD” I’d never seen during decades of zipping along it in my car.

We got lucky with the weather. The sky was overcast and dark at times but it never rained beyond some drizzle. At points, the sun almost came out and the lake looked beautiful, as did the dramatic skyline. What a treat to see some of the dramatic high-rise architecture along the river leading to the lake from new vantage points. And for a moment you had a feel for what might be if we were all less dependent on our gas-guzzling cars. I did recall, at times, the thrill of riding on some bike-only bridge in Copenhagen and, of course, the temporary bike-only rural roads in Iowa during RAGBRAI.

I rode a few blocks from Emma and Rockets in Edgewater to the BRyn Mawr entrance onto the Drive and rode south 8 miles to Grant Park where I met up wi5 my sister Jill and two of her friends who took the El in from Oak Park. I wanted to keep riding south but we sort of ran out of time (there are some timing issues to keep track of – and I am glad I started at 6:30 am) so we rode back north. next time, I may being my bike and ride all the way down and back, the earlier the better.

This afternoon we went to the Sunday farmers market in Logan Square and to delicious Bang Bang Pie shop, which serves, yes, pie — sweet and savory. We had excellent chocolate caramel pie and key lime pie (they’d run out of strawberry rhubarb) and sampled the chicken pot pie. Also had great homemade lemonade with free refills. We also walked Millie around E & R’s lovely Edgewater neighborhood.

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Dodging tornadoes in Iowa/cheese 101 at Eataly in Chicagol

We somehow managed to drive from Des Moines to Chicago last night without directly encountering any of the storms that were popping up all around us. Outside Iowa City on I-80, we saw scary looking white clouds (which may or may not have produced the tornado we learned touched down about 25 minutes before we passed through) and in Illinois, lightning lit up the dark night just south of us and north of us off and on. Needless to say, we were very happy when we got to Chicago around midnight.

Today, the weather was much more pleasant than anticipated in Chicago, sunny and warm instead of rainy. We spent two hours at the scoula on the second floor of eataly, taking a very fun cheese and wine tasting class that emma and rocket got me for my birthday. Great gift idea and we sampled 6 cheeses, and 3 “natural” wines and learned everything we ever wanted to know about to cheese from the cheesemonger.

Cheeses we tried and enjoyed (all of those served): casa Madaio, Canestrato, Campania; Jasper hill, Bayley Haven Blue, Vermont; Agriform,, Parmigiano; Arrigoni, quartirolo Lombardo; ca de’ambros, Nocetto di capra (goat cheese) Guffanti, sola…wine: micro Marriott I, Bianco dell’emilia

Dinner was very good at a place with the unappetizing name:Income Tax in Edgewater. Mediterranean fare.

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For my next trip to DUMBO (in NYC’s Brooklyn)

I’ve long been curious about Brooklyn’s Dumbo neighborhood but the few times I’ve walked under the Brooklyn Bridge to explore it, I wasn’t sure if I’d really found it. (DUMBO actually stands for down under the Manhattan Bridge overpass.” It’s the area between the two bridges and a few blocks east of the Manhattan Bridge.) So this recent walking tour of Dumbo offered by the NYTimes may some day come in handy. See below:

The Dumbo neighborhood of Brooklyn, once warehouses and longshoremen, is now hot and hip. On an itinerary inspired by The New York Times and conducted by Urban Adventures, discover one of the most fascinating neighborhoods in the city, including some spots off the tourist trail. Catch the ferry from Manhattan and have an experience that combines local sights with hands-on and exclusive access.

New York Times Exclusives:

  • Tour the Smile to Go bakery with a staff member to watch pastries being made and taste them fresh out of the oven.
  • Pour your own beer at Randolph Beer, where the beer is also made.
  • Meet the staff at innovative places like Powerhouse Arena and the Brooklyn Roasting Company.

Trip Highlights:

  • Travel like a local on the commuter ferry from Manhattan to Brooklyn.
  • Visit Brooklyn Bridge Park, built partly on old shipping piers, and get breathtaking views of the Manhattan skyline.
  • Learn the history of Brooklyn’s waterfront and how it has transformed from industrial to recreational.
  • Try the offerings at some of the neighborhood’s favorite local food creators and businesses.
  • Feel the vibe that has attracted artists, innovators and tech companies and revitalized the neighborhood.

Schedule Details

Duration: 3 hours

Meeting point: Entrance of Pier 11 just east of South Street and Gouverneur Lane, underneath the F.D.R. Drive in Manhattan

Starting time: 9:00 a.m.

Ending point: Randolph Beer

RESERVE

Duration

3 hours

Cost

$99 USD

Maximum Group Size

12 people

Activity Level

Easier

Questions?

Terms & Conditions

Terms & Conditions

Days of Departure

Tour operates daily

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A City Tour gift certificate is the perfect present for any occasion. Select a specific tour and date, or choose the value and let the lucky recipient decide how to redeem it.

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Hour 1: Views of Manhattan and Brooklyn

Meet in Manhattan and hop the commuter ferry for a short ride across the East River to Brooklyn, with great views of the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. Land in Dumbo, named not for the elephant, but because it is “down under the Manhattan Bridge overpass.” Long home to shipping piers and industrial warehouses, this charming and historic neighborhood is now one of the most desirable in Brooklyn because of its access to the waterfront, breathtaking views and historic architecture. Walk through Brooklyn Bridge Park, built largely on those old piers, to learn how the waterfront changed from a source of food to a thriving industrial area (where entrepreneurs did everything from process tobacco to create the first cardboard boxes) to an unsafe abandoned slum to what it is today: a beautiful park for recreation and home to modern businesses. Stop at Jane’s Carousel, from a 1920s amusement park. It was purchased by a local artist who restored it, and a glass-enclosed ride offers a view of modern Manhattan from a historic perch.

At the Empire Stores, you’ll see the latest transformation. This brick warehouse block is believed to be the first place coffee was commercially roasted and processed, but was abandoned for many years as shipping moved elsewhere. Now, it has been revived as a community space with shops, cafes and restaurants, rotating art exhibits and an outpost of the Brooklyn Historical Society. Take in the panorama of Manhattan from a secret viewpoint, then head to the Smile to Go, a spinoff of a popular downtown restaurant, the Smile. See where all the pastries are made, watching the bakers at work as you hear about the process. Then sample an array of creative, chef-driven pastries fresh from the oven.

Hour 2: Layers of History

Walk down the old cobblestone streets to see more of the old warehouses and factories that have been converted into lofts, restaurants and art galleries. Stop at Powerhouse Arena. It’s a bookstore specializing in books on art and photography, but is also a space for art exhibitions and literary events, including book readings, launch parties and panel discussions. Meet a manager to talk about the community activities that happen here, and about the literary and art communities that inspire and visit the space.

Pass under the Manhattan Bridge archway and into another part of the neighborhood to visit the Brooklyn Roasting Company. It is housed in an old building that was part of the historic Arbuckle’s Coffee company, whose roasted coffee was a favorite of cowboys for years. Brooklyn Roasting has brought the coffee tradition back to the waterfront. Learn about their history and how it ties into the neighborhood’s past. Of course, sample some of coffee, which is curated and blended from beans from all over the world.

Hour 3: The New Brooklyn

Head farther into Dumbo and learn about the growing start-up and tech world in the neighborhood. Stop for a quick bite at Untamed Sandwiches, which uses sustainable and local food for its braised meat and vegetables. You might stop instead at CUPER, an unassuming cafe inside the Made in NY Media Center, a co-working space and incubator where you can usually find artists discussing projects and business people making deals. Finally, stop at the hidden gem of Randolph Beer. Craft brewing is all the rage, but the Randolph goes it one better and serves its beer where it’s made. Learn about the growing craft beer scene in Brooklyn, and pull your own beer from the tap. (You can’t get much more local than that.) End the tour sipping your beer and reflecting on how far Brooklyn has come, yet how close it remains to its roots.

 

Tour Inclusions: Local English-speaking guide, pastry, coffee, gourmet sandwich, pour your own beer, ferry ticket.

Tour Exclusions: Additional food and drinks, souvenirs and personal shopping, gratuities for your guide.

Children: No age limit. This is a child-friendly tour. Children between the ages of 6 and 11 inclusively are permitted on this tour at the rate listed above. Please select ‘child’ when booking. Children under the age of 6 are permitted to join this tour free of charge. Please inform us at the time of booking if you’ll be bringing a child under the age of 6. You can do so in the special request box on the checkout page.

 

 

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Improvising on the bike trails in Des Moines

Bike Riding in Norway (not DSM) in June 2018

Spring – and Des Moines’ bike trails beckon! But this spring, like many others, is tricky for riders (and walkers), thanks to flooding and construction. On our first ride of the season, yesterday — a gorgeous spring Easter Sunday — D and I set out on the Inter-urban Trail north of our house in Beaverdale and rode east toward the Neal Smith/Dorrian trail along the Des Moines River.   Within minutes, we encountered flooding and closures. Nevertheless, we persisted.

Crossing the trestle bridge over the river, we ended up going straight on a new dirt trail spur that led us toward McHenry Park (we think) and then back onto the Smith/Dorrian trail briefly. As we figured, the portion of the trail hugging the river north of Birdland Marina was flooded but we didn’t expect the road paralleling the trail to be torn up (apparently under construction). Instead of navigating dirt and gravel,  we ended up walking our bikes up a grassy embankment and taking what turned out to be another detour, in an industrial area near North High. We ended up just south of Union Park and Birdland Marina, where we again encountered torn up trail so we walked our bikes up the hill past Captain Roy’s, a popular riverside bar and restaurant. (Braver souls rode on the street.) From there we had smooth sailing past the Botanical Center into the East Village, past Principal Park and west along the Raccoon River to Gray’s Lake where we encountered more construction but it was easily navigated, in part because the road around the lake is closed to cars so it’s wide open for bikers and walkers.

More smooth sailing in Waterworks Park, even along the river where there is often flooding. And no issues — except my out-of-shape body (this was my first ride in nine months, since breaking my arm in July 2018 in Norway) — as we chugged up the road past Ashworth Pool, Greenwood Park, The Des Moines Art Center and along Polk Boulevard and Roosevelt High school home to Forestdale. Oh happy day!

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Scenic retreat – Loya’s B&B near Ames

Rare to hear about an old-style bed and breakfast (vs. an airbnb) but Family Living (the Iowa Farm Bureau publication edited by my husband) recently did a big splash about a farm family that operates Loya’s Little House B&B, north of Ames in the Skunk River Valley, about 15 minutes from the Iowa State Campus. It looks like a very nice house in a lovely rural location, a former family farm on 80 acres. An unexpected touch: Costa Rican-influenced breakfast, thanks to a young farm family member who married a Costa Rica native. The B&B’s four bedrooms can be rented individually or in total, sleeping 16. Good to know, especially around Iowa State graduation time!

 

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Adventures in southwest Iowa – Sidney, Shenandoah, and Red Oak

Lovely drive through rural Iowa to visit a remarkable 99-year-old woman in the small town of Sidney, famous for its rodeo. I stopped at a 19th-century drug store. And in the town square, I admired the ceramic cowboy boots adorning the street lamps by the Fremont County Courthouse. In Red Oak, I admired Montgomery County’s elegant red court house.

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My story in Minneapolis Star Trib on Chicago’s Andersonville neighborhood

Here’s my story on Chicago’s Andersonville neighborhood with major assist from my kids. Click on the link to see who got the much-deserved credit for the photos in the story (which are not the photos below. )

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Emma at Hopleaf

MARCH 29, 2019 — 9:16AM

The Andersonville neighborhood offers a buffet of delights, Swedish and otherwise.

By Betsy Rubiner Special to the Star Tribune

Glögg goes down easy on a cold winter night in Chicago, as I learned recently when my son-in-law insisted I visit the venerable Simon’s Tavern to get a full-bodied taste of the city’s North Side neighborhood of Andersonville (andersonville.org).

With a sweetness that masks its punch, the traditional Swedish mulled wine is a Simon’s mainstay (served warm in the winter and cold in the summer, as a “glögg slushie”) and a robust reminder of Andersonville’s past, when mid-19th-century Swedish immigrants settled in what was then the boondocks north of Chicago.

Other signs of Swedish-ness endure — the most obvious being a water tower replica painted blue and yellow to resemble a massive Swedish flag, perched above a former hardware store housing a Swedish American Museum. Nearby is Svea, a Swedish cafe opened in 1924, serving meatballs, pancakes and a chicken sandwich named after Pippi Longstocking; and, of course, Simon’s, opened in 1934, with its landmark neon sign of a blue and yellow fish holding a cocktail, a nod to another Swedish delicacy, pickled herring.

But as the neighborhood’s Middle Eastern bakery, feminist bookstore, high-end art supply shop and other independently owned galleries and vintage/antique stores make clear, Andersonville offers a smorgasbord of stuff, Swedish and not. During frequent visits, I usually discover yet another enticing shop or restaurant, often with help from enthusiastic transplants — my young adult kids who have found relatively affordable housing in Andersonville and the surrounding Edgewater area.

Shopping standouts

Lined with low-rise, turn-of-the-20th-century brick buildings, some clad in creamy decorative terra cotta, Andersonville’s main commercial drag — a roughly milelong stretch of N. Clark Street — retains an endearingly small-town feel that sets it apart from the big city, making it ideal for wandering and people-watching.

My favorite shops, mostly concentrated in the eight blocks south of Rascher Avenue, tend to have a distinct sensibility, environment and mood. At the self-described feminist bookstore Women & Children First, which caters to Andersonville’s sizable LBGTQ community as well as women and children, it’s always interesting to see which books are prominently displayed, with helpful staff reviews, and I often discover unknown gems (womenandchildrenfirst.com).

Also carefully curated is Martha Mae Art Supplies & Beautiful Things. Owned by a young Art Institute of Chicago alumna, the small, light and airy shop sells a remarkable assortment of elegant utilitarian objects — from Swiss fountain pens, French stationery and Japanese papers to brass staplers and wrought iron scissors — impeccably arranged in uncluttered displays near the occasional contemporary painting and taxidermied animal (marthamae.info).

In contrast, the dense collection of vintage decor at Brimfield — heavy wool blankets, plaid thermoses, college pennants, wood tennis racquets, tweed sportcoats, flannel shirts, wicker picnic baskets, darts and scouting patches — feels like the set of a Wes Anderson movie (brimfieldus.com). Visiting the tiny vintage clothing store Tilly, packed with gowns and costume jewelry, is like stepping into the closet of a glamorous starlet from decades past (1-773-744-9566).

At the midcentury furniture store Scout, the vibe is hip retro urban (1-773-275-5700), while the eccentric offerings at the shop/gallery Transistorinclude lamps made from old rotary telephones, slide projectors and desk fans (transistor­chicago.com).

Dining and drinking

A colorful history and atmospherics are a big part of the charm at Simon’s, opened by a Swedish immigrant who ran a speakeasy in the basement and a bulletproof mini-bank in what now looks like an abandoned broom closet in the bar.

Warm and welcoming, the neighborhood tavern’s dim, tunnellike space includes the original 60-foot-long mahogany bar with a ship etched into the glass, across from a long 1956 mural titled “The Deer Hunter’s Ball,” its canvas buckled with age. Nursing our glögg, served in a glass mug with a thin Swedish ginger snap, or pepparkakor, we could clearly see the mural’s deer in the wild and murkier scenes of people partying (1-773-878-0894).

A block south, Hopleaf Bar offers an extensive beer selection (craft, draft, bottles) and upscale Belgian-inspired pub grub, from mussels steamed in a Belgian beer broth to a Wisconsin smoked ham sandwich on dark pumpernickel bread with Gruyère and coleslaw. The pomme frites are delicious. Even better are the thin and crisp onion rings, served in a large mound.

We like eating at a wood table in the comfortable back dining room, which has old tin beer advertisements hanging on exposed brick walls, a wood-burning stove and windows overlooking a backyard patio. One heads up: no kids — or anyone under 21 — allowed. This is a bar, even though the backroom feels like a restaurant (hopleafbar.com).

Specializing in “heirloom Southern cooking,” Big Jones(bigjoneschicago.com) produces delicious crispy-not-greasy fried chicken, cooking it in lard seasoned with bacon grease. Its traditional Cajun-style gumbo is made with a proper roux. Need I say more?

At Lost Larson, a stylish Swedish bakery that opened last year, the traditional pastry cardamom buns, or kardemummabullar, taste pretty darned close to those we ate last year in Stockholm during many a fika, the Swedish coffee-and-cake break. But, psst, the cinnamon roll and monkey bread are pretty great, too (lostlar­son.com).

Next visit, I hope to try one of Lost Larson’s open-faced sandwiches, served on heavy Swedish rye, flavored with fennel, anise and orange peel. I also want to eat at Passerotto (passerottochicago.com), one of last year’s hot new Chicago openings, serving “fun Korean” dishes with “minor” Central Italian touches. Its cavatelli with nori butter landed on Time Out Chicago’s 2018 “Best Dishes and Drinks” list.

Before leaving Andersonville, I often stop at the Middle East Bakery & Grocery to order a shawafel wrap (a chicken shawarma/falafel mashup) to go at the counter and load up on hummus, tabbouleh, baba ganoush and cushiony barbari flatbread for the drive home (middleeastbakeryandgrocery.com).

Des Moines-based writer Betsy Rubiner (betsyrubiner.wordpress.com) writes the blog Take Betsy With You.

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Swedish goodies at Lost Larson

 

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Bonnard show at Tate Modern, Zizzi Italian, Oliveira Brazilian vegan food, Cote for brunch — London

I met another friend of 39 years, Jemima, who came all the way from her home in the northern town of Ludlow to meet up, for the first time in about four years. What a treat! She suggested an exhibit of work by Pierre Bonnard at the Tate Modern, one of my favorite London “it” spots. The exhibit itself turned out to be stunning (Go! Go!)

South Bank was packed with people, many speaking languages other than English, strolling along the Thames on a sunny day with a brisk wind. Such a buzzy place. London seems so vibrant, healthier than ever and yet Brexit looms, creating an odd sense of doom.

We had a good lunch at Zizzi, a chain Italian restaurant with surprisingly good food that, even more surprisingly, arrived at our table very quickly and still tasted good. (We shared pizza and a salad.) We also had a really nice view of the Thames and all the hubbub along the South Bank.

on Saturday night, Francine, Russ and I had highly unusual vegan and veggie Brazilian food at Oliveira in East Sheen. We are now back on Shalstone road where Russ is engrossed in a chess channel on YouTube that he swears by (Power Play Chess, should you be so inclined.)

On my last day in London, Francine, Russ and I had a nice brunch (English breakfast for Francine and I) at Cote restaurant in the pretty Richmond village of Barnes and then were blown by an intense wind along the Thames path, back to Mortlake.

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