Category Archives: THE MIDWEST

Door County Day 4: Peninsula State Park, Pebble Beach, Wilson’s sundae, Door County Wildwood Market, Old Post Office fish boil, night stroll in pretty Fish Creek

(July 2020) We did a triathlon of sorts at Peninsula State Park, a huge chunk of gorgeous land jutting out into the blue waters of Green Bay. First we hiked the two-mile Eagle Trail, which was difficult as advertised in terms of having a lot of tree roots, rocks and mud to navigate but also stunning, with bits through the forest hugging the bay with giant rugged stone bluffs.

Then we rode bikes on the Sunset Trail about 9 miles which also took us through forest and along the coast. We skipped the beach since it was too crowded for a visit during a pandemic but we did have a picnic from a social distance and then found hidden Pebble Beach which may be our favorite place to swim yet here. It’s hidden in Little Sister Bay at the bottom of a curving road down from Highway 42 through the woods. It seemed a local hangout for very attractive young people. We sat on the area’s signature large white flat stones and swam in water that was shockingly green near the shore and then deep blue. So maybe this is why Green Bay is named Green Bay?

Wildwood Market

We finally got around to having ice cream at the famous Wilson’s in Ephraim, a cheerful red and white building from the early 1900’s. The mini tin roof sundae was excellent, eaten while sitting on a park bench across the street overlooking the harbor.

On the way back to our airbnb, we stopped at what looked like and was indeed a former migrant workers housing north of Sister Bay, a worn wooden very long version of a shotgun shack, tastefully transformed into an earthy farmers market called Door County Wildwood Market, which had good fruit and veg and beautifully dried flowers and pickled vegetables.

At night we went to a traditional Door County fish boil which turned out to be a lot of fun.  Who knew that boiled whitefish, red-skinned potatoes and ordinary onions could taste so good but they did. Very fresh and simple, served with melted butter and a shaker of mixed spice. We had a primo seat on the front porch of the Old Post Office Cafe in Ephraim so we watched yet another spectacular sunset. Last stop was Fish Creek which turned out to be a lovely town. We have been visiting these places at night because we don’t have anything else to do and we don’t want to go during the day when there are more people. It’s a coronavirus thing.

Fish boil

 

 

 

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Door County Day 3: Beach Road Biking, Ellison Bay pottery, Europe Bay beach/town park, Charlie’s smokehouse, bea’s ho- made cherry pie.

(From July 2020…a special hello to one of my favorite readers: Hi Aunt Shelby! x0x)

Spectacular weather. We took a 10 mile round trip bike ride west and north of our Airbnb along lovely shaded Beach Road, lined with trees and driveways cut into the woods that lead down to huge homes with water views. Easy peddling onto Porcupine Road and then Ellison Bay Bluff, where we watched the sunset last night. This time the water looked completely different. dark blue water with crashing waves. We chanced upon a lovely old farm on Beach Road near highway 42 that turned out to be a gathering place for the local folks, with communal gardens, (pick your own free) and old dark wood barns and buildings and a contemporary gathering spot with a big demonstration kitchen.

In Ellison Bay, we stopped at Ellison Bay Pottery where I bought a rustic covered baking dish in Door County colors (blue, green, tan) and we peeked in at the folk arts school, The Clearing, across the street, which was intriguing. We also stopped at  Turtle Ridge, an upmarket gallery/clothing shop with lots of cool handmade tooled leather goods. (I got a smock of sorts for $45, marked down from $179.)We also got some excellent cherry apple cider at Island orchard cider …no tastings, due to Covid. I like Ellison Bay a lot, more arty, laidback, rustic with good crafts and the amazing Wickman House restaurant.

Onto Europe Bay, a nice sandy beach, with more rocks than our nearby Sandy Bay beach and more people, plus biting flies. But beautiful. Europe Lake (not the same as Europe Bay) didn’t have a beach so we moved on, stopping in Gills Rock at Charlie’s Smokehouse for whitefish. We cooked in tonight…excellent brats from Waseda Farms, cherry pie from the famous Bea’s Ho-made. (Yes, that’s the name!)

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Door County Day 2: Baileys Harbor, Waseda Farms, Cherries, biking to sand bay Beach, wickham house bbq, Garrett Bay Boat landing, Ellison bluff sunset, Door County Creamery

(July 2020) I can’t believe this was one day. We did so much. It was raining so we took lovely county road F to Baileys Harbor for a very small farmers market at the town hall and excellent coffee and chèvre with honey and toasted nuts on a thick slice of sour dough at Bearded Heart. Almost everyone is wearing masks now (which is a relief) after a County mask order.

The rain was in and out most of the morning, adding drama to the bucolic waterfront and farm scenery. We stopped at my dream organic farm, Waseda Farms, to pick raspberries in the drizzle, taking refuge on the porch of a late 1800s school house during a downpour that made the gardens, full of flowers, fruit and vegetables, even lusher.

On to cherry land along Highway 42 from Egg harbor to Fish creek to Ephraim. We stopped at several varieties of cherry store from strange old-fashioned with grandma behind an old cash register (hyline) to sleekly commercial (laughenbach). We came home with raspberries, blueberries (from Michigan!) sweet cherries, brats, goat chèvre, and leftover bbq brisket and ribs from the lovely Wickham house in Ellison Bay. The main house is closed due to Covid but diners and takeout customers enjoyed the lovely gardens-side dining. Every one is improvising due to the pandemic with good results. Wickham house was serving only bbq and it was excellent.

After splurging on a caphrina in the garden we found an amazing empty spot overlooking a surreally calm bay to eat out takeout on a bench, driving deep in the woods until a clearing by the water, at Garrett Bay boat landing. On the way back to Sister Bay we hit a scenic overlook at the end of another clearing in the woods just in time for a spectacular sunset at Ellison bay bluff. We got to Sister Bay just before Door County Creamery closed for some goat milk gelato and then wandered the almost free of tourists main drag. I almost forgot to mention our 5 mile bike ride down Waters end road to Sand Bay, a small beach with soft sand, where we swam in Lake Michigan which was gentler and warmer than I remembered from childhood trips up north in Michigan. Glorious.

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Day 1: Madison and Door County

(written last week of July, 2020)

 

Feels great to have a change of scenery – this is our first trip since the pandemic began in earnest in March. Our behavior hasn’t changed much though. Still social distancing, wearing masks outside in public when it looks like we are nearing a clump of people. We did go to our first restaurant since March. Waited over an hour for an outside table at the sweet Trixie’s in the lovely tiny village of Ephraim. There were inside tables but we aren’t doing that yet. No hardship waiting. We sat on a comfy bench far from others in the grassy park across the street overlooking the bay and the setting sun.

The meal was good, especially the tempura fried white fish with tzatziki and cucumbers. Felt so good to be a little less isolated. I do wish more people were wearing masks here outside. Very hit or miss even though Door county just issued an edict to wear masks and people must wear them indoors.

Our Airbnb is lovely and as promised secluded and spotless. It’s in the woods and meadow just north of Sister Bay in a cool contemporary house, blue shingles with white trim. We have a high ceilinged loft above the garage with bed, couch, small table and kitchen (no stove). All white walls, white comforter, tan wood, very Scandinavian pristine which feels right in this perilous moment. (This is also our first time staying outside our home during the pandemic, which feels a little verboten, if not risky. I’m less paranoid about surfaces than being around other people. No other people here.)

We stopped en route in Madison for a cheese exchange with our friend Jane who lives in Madison and knows I love Bleu Mont, the local bandaged cheddar. She ended up joining us (from six feet) in a park to eat said bandaged cheddar for lunch. The drive was uneventful up to Sister Bay. This area so far reminds me a bit of Up North (Michigan) which is just across Lake Michigan from here and Martha’s Vineyard with the tiny white clapboard buildings in Ephraim. 

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When next in Omaha – Farine & Four, Time Out Foods, Block 16.

This courtesy of the NYTime’s Sam Sifton: (although I gotta say, I DO know what crag rangoon is (after 30 years living in the vicinity of Nebraska) and putting it on a burger sounds, well, awful.

 

Good morning. I was in Omaha over the weekend, talking food and culture with the good folks of Lauritzen Gardens and driving around town with Sarah Baker Hansen, the food critic for the Omaha World-Herald. We drank tall lattes from Archetype and ate ridiculously good focaccia at Farine and Four, then woofed down fried chicken for elevenses at Time Out Foods in advance of lunch at Block 16, downtown. Later there were slabs of Flintstone’s-style beef from Omaha Steaks.

It was a wild day of eating, and if I remain haunted by the Time Out chicken and the size-large T-bones, it’s the food of Paul and Jessica Urban at Block 16 that I’ll be messing around with in my kitchen at home, no-recipe cooking to recall their sly, joyful takes on late-night Midwestern restaurant food. First up, their Three Happiness burger, named for a local Chinese restaurant known for its crab Rangoon — fried won ton dumplings filled with crab-flecked cream cheese.
The Urbans cover a griddled burger with that filling, top it with a stir-fried coleslaw and chile sauce, and serve it on a soft sesame-seed bun. This is shockingly delicious even if you are not inebriated — even if you’ve never heard of crab Rangoon! —

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Art exhibits to see Fall 2019 in NYC, Chicago, LA, Minneapolis and Bentonville

Thanks to the NYTimes listings, I know what’s on my to-see list during trips East, West and North this year.

In LA – Betye Saar: The Legends of “Black Girl’s Window” – LACMA Sept. 22-April 5.

In Chicago – Photography + Folk Art: Looking for american in the 1930s: Art Institute of Chicago Sept. 21-Jan. 19, 2020 ….In a cloud, in a wall, in a chair: Six modernists in Mexico at Mid Century (thru Jan. 12)

In Minneapolis: Theaster Gates: Assembly Hall – at Walker Art Center thru Jan. 12.

In Bentonville, Ark — The Momentary, which appears to be an outpost of the fabulous Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art.

In NYC: Kenyan-American Artist Wangechi Mutu’s sculptures at the MET – the first-ever art commission for the museum’s Fifth Avenue facade niches (her “Water Woman” sculpture at the Des Moines Art Center is a bit hit with the fourth-graders I take on tours) ; also on my list: the Amy Sherald show (she of the Michelle Obama portrait)…

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Filed under Arkansas, California, Chicago, Illinois, Los Angeles, Minneapolis, Minnesota, museum exhibit, New York, THE ARTS

60th bday bash and mom’s day in Twin Cities

Late post:

So nice to be with my kids to mark these occasions. We are staying at an Airbnb on Ashland Street in the MAC-Grove neighborhood of St. Paul, not far from where noah and his pal for life Conor live (midcity.)

Dirck and I took an easy and scenic bike ride along Marshall and over then along the Mississippi to the Guthrie Theater where we met “the kids” (who drove in the black monster truck emma and rocket rented), which was a good starting point for emma who is in the twin cities for the first time. We took the long elevator in the Guthrie up to the cantilevered outdoor deck with stupendous views of water crashing down St Anthony’s Falls. Then we rode over the stone arch bridge past the falls to northeast Minneapolis to check out some great vintage stores noah, our guide, has found include Find Furniture (lots of mid century modern) and x, where I bought a lively patterned 80’s shirt jacket, complete with shoulder pads!

We rode back to St. Paul along the east side of the river thru dinkytown (the u of Minnesota college town) and the stadium, stopping briefly for some light rain to pass. The kids brought back delicious arepas from Minneapolis for an afternoon snack (we had a delicious brunch earlier at Rose Patisserie in St. Paul.. great quiche). we went to a nearby bar for drinks and then for a delicious dinner at Bar La Grassa in the Minneapolis warehouse district and stopped by the fabulous “bank” bar, an Art Deco masterwork that used to be the farmers and merchants bank (now a hotel) downtown. Couldn’t ask for a better bday with my family!

On Sunday, after a mom’s day brunch at Noah’s apartment on Edmunds Street we drove to Minnehaha Falls, which was full of water, and lined with visitors. onto Lake Harriet for a stroll past the Scandinavian looking pavilion, with lots of visitors too strolling, cycling and skateboarding. Also spotted an old trolley that I am not sure goes where. early Cambodian dinner (green curry, scallion pancakes, omelette), at Cheng Heng in Noah’s neighborhood.

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New restaurants to try in Madison, Wisconsin

We found some great dining options a year ago in Madison, including Forequarter, which is included in this story in this weekend’s  Minneapolis STribune, which suggests even more good places to eat!

 

Wisconsin’s capital and university town gets an A for its culinary delights.

The market wasn’t her only success. Piper also established L’Etoile in 1976 as one of the country’s great early farm-to-table restaurants. That it carries on today, even without her, proves that she wasn’t acting alone. Madison, a university town populated by global food-smart students and scholars, was ready to do some serious eating.

It has been eating well ever since, as one of the Midwest’s most adventurous culinary cities.

Madison is worth visiting for more than just food. It stretches between two lakes and makes for a fun weekend. Downtown’s anchoring State Street, running from the Capitol Square to the campus, is lined with art museums, coffee shops, bookstores and galleries. At dusk, people collect on the Memorial Union terrace, where bands play to the setting sun, brats get grilled and people paddle on Lake Mendota in rentable canoes and kayaks, past splashing swimmers.

A lot of the crowd is building up an appetite for dinner, and the best place for a taste of Madison’s most ambitious dining is Forequarter. Run by the Underground Food Collective, and headed by four-time James Beard nominee Jonny Hunter, the restaurant is zealous about local foraging and sourcing. That makes dinner, in the low-key dining room, a very model of purist locavore cooking (forequartermadison.com; 1-608-609-4717).

Start with the charcuterie plate and forget those luncheon meat platters that too many kitchens try to pass off now as serious carnivorous dining. The Forequarter plate is butchered at the Food Collective’s own Underground Butcher. A recent platter included Tuscan and Calabrian salamis, sobrassada, Prussian ham and coppa. Then dive into the veg-friendly menu, which changes daily, depending on what just sprouted. A shaved parsnip salad may come brightened by pink peppercorn vinaigrette and studded with cerignola olives; a plate of rainbow carrots may play off daikon tzatziki and hazelnut dukkah. Pan-seared lake trout might pair with roasted sweet potato and ginger broth. Hold out for dessert if it’s some version of the carrot layer cake ribboned with orange marmalade and pistachio.

If that feels too Noma-esque, book a table at Sardine. Sitting on Lake Monona, the airy converted warehouse of a dining room, fronted by a snaking bar, is one of Madison’s most handsome, and the menu follows glossy suit. Co-owner and chefs John Gadau and Phillip Hurley, Chicago transplants, know how to plate contemporary comfort food that skips a lot of borders, from French to Mediterranean. Their standout signature dishes range from a warm duck confit and frisee salad, roused by green beans, bacon lardon and a poached egg, to pan-roasted skate wing dressed with caper-almond brown butter. The kitchen’s namesake sardine burger — grass-fed angus beef dressed with a fig and caramelized onion jam — is a wonder itself (sardinemadison.com; 1-608-441-1600).

For straight-up comfort food, the pair’s homier Gates and Brovi serves a perfect chicken piccata (­gatesandbrovi.com; 1-608-819-8988). For pure tradition, though, Tornado, just off the Capitol Square, is everything a classic steakhouse should be (­tornadosteakhouse.com; 1-608-256-3570). The beamed dining room looks like Paul Bunyan’s North Woods cabin and the tenderloin comes with buttery hash-brown potatoes, fresh-baked breadsticks and a crisp iceberg lettuce wedge doused in French blue cheese dressing.

Just across the square, L’Etoile, now headed by James Beard winner Tory Miller, sits next to its more casual sister kitchen Graze (­letoile-restaurant.com, 1-608-251-0500; grazemadison.com; 1-608-251-2700). The most unexpected restaurant in Miller’s portfolio is his Spanish-themed Estrellon, where the tortilla espanola is worthy of any Latin mama and the paella Valenciana comes served in the traditional black pan and crowned with rich dabs of aioli (estrellonrestaurant.com; 1-608-251-2111).

Among Madison’s crowded run of other global restaurants is Italian restaurant Lombardino’s, its dining room packed with a winking collection of “La Dolce Vita” kitsch. The kitchen does right by a pan-Italian menu, from seasonal bruschettas to knockout pastas (lombardinos.com; 1-608-238-1922). The kitchen’s pizzas are fine, as well, but for a bona fide, beautifully blistered, straight-from-Naples version pulled out of a wood-fired brick oven, head to Pizza Brutta, on restaurant-jammed Monroe Street (pizzabrutta.com; 1-608-257-2120).

In a city dense with Asian students, there is an odd dearth of decent Asian restaurants. The exception is a growing constellation of Japanese eateries. Best among them is Muramoto at Hilldale mall, where the standard-issue sushi is augmented by a fantastic Asian slaw, calamari paired with ponzu mayonnaise, and a miso-marinated black cod (hilldale.muramoto.biz; 1-608-441-1090). The other strong option is Red, where the seasonal maki sometimes goes too baroque (consider the red paradise roll, a mélange of spicy salmon, asparagus, arugula, seared tuna, pineapple avocado salsa, fried garlic and pea shoots that reads more like a casserole than maki) but where the sushi itself is always first-rate (red-madison.com; 1-608-294-1234).

For a return to regional flavors, Quivey’s Grove, on the far west edge of Madison, is one of the town’s best surprises (­quiveysgrove.com; 1-608-273-4900). Its Stone House dining room, in a 19th-century farmhouse, features a menu rooted in largely Scandinavian and German culinary traditions, making for big meaty plates that get cooked with finesse. The Friday fish fry is an ode to a Midwestern classic. So are the fresh-baked pastries.

But for the best sweet stop in town, head back to Monroe Street, where Bloom Bake Shop features cupcakes, biscuits, doughnuts and cinnamon rolls (­bloombakeshop.com; 1-608-509-7669). The antidote to the oversized cupcakes churned out by the chains, Bloom’s delicate cupcakes are made with locally sourced ingredients, so a lemon and blueberry version comes baked with real fruit, folded in like a smoothie, and topped by the lightest lemon buttercream. It makes for a bright last taste of Madison.

Food and travel journalist Raphael Kadushin regularly writes for Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic Traveler and other publications.

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Return to: Wheatfields Bakery/Lawrence KS, Arthur Bryant’s/KC and Arrow coffeehouse/Manhattan (KS)

We didn’t get too much time to hang out in Kansas (or Missouri) last weekend because the focus of our trip was attending the wedding of my niece Whitney in Manhattan, Kansas. But a family’s got to eat, right? So we stopped for lunch at Wheatfields in Lawrence, which was fairly quick in and out and had a solid selection of sandwiches (and excellent looking tomato soup). After a quick tour of his alma KU by Dirck, we drove another two hours to the Comfort Suites in Manhattan, which proved serviceable, as always. We stopped for coffee and iced tea at Arrow coffeehouse, where we also could have gotten cocktails as it doubles as a bar. The wedding was in Aggieville (the KState entertainment neighborhood), at a venue on Moro street next to…an offshoot of The Cozy Inn, the famous slider place in Salina, KS. (Who knew there was another Cozy Inn?) On the way home, after shopping for famous Kansas potato chips (Art & Mary’s) that we found out, sadly, no longer are made (Art & Mary went bankrupt about a year ago, we discovered), we ended up happily at Arthur Bryant’s. Emma, our pregnant daughter, was craving ribs and Rachel had never been to KC or for ribs (she was not long ago a vegetarian).  One of the few things I’m not that keen on at Bryant’s is the sauce (yes, I know, the sauce is beloved by many). It’s too peppery. But we discovered Bryant’s offers two other sauces including, I believe, the President’s sauce, which – dare I say it – tasted much like the sweet and tangy sauce served by its competitor, Gates. We had hoped to go to Joe’s (formerly Oklahoma Joe’s) but found out it was closed on Sundays. Good to know.

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First ISU cyclones game at Hilton (bad day for KU)/return to Provisions – Ames

2hiltonShockingly bad performance by the Kansas Jayhawks (our in-house favorite) at Iowa State University’s cavernous Hilton Auditorium in Ames – the Jayhawks  lost by 17 points. But it was fun to go to a game at Hilton for the first time. We sat high  in the nosebleed section so the noise from the increasingly joyful ISU near-capacity crowd was slightly less deafening and we had a good vantage point to see all the flashing lights, arm- waving fan cheers, perky pom-poming cheerleaders and the amusing half-time show with little kids doing somersaults while spinning basketballs.

We returned to our favorite Ames restaurant Provisions, sitting in what seemed like a new dining area near the bakery, a table away from a large party that included ISU’s new president.  I dared to try an Asian-flavored duck sandwich rather than my usual favorite, the salmon sandwich. The “five-spice” roasted duck was good –served pulled pork style with crispy bits, plum sauce and scallions in the same thick dark black brioche roll that makes the salmon sandwich so good.  The side salad, broccoli slaw and raisins, was too sweet. Dirck had excellent beer-braised short ribs served atop creamy polenta made with goat cheese.  We shared a lemon meringue tart that was delicious but the cookie crust was too hard. We had to pick it up to eat. Cutting it, especially with a fork, was too challenging and we risked sending flying projectiles of sticky crust toward each other. Or beyond.

 

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