Category Archives: THE MIDWEST

Minneapolis by bike, the lakes, minnehaha falls, river; be’witched, salty tart, room and board outlet

imagefantastic day riding our bikes around the lakes in Minneapolis. Sure it could have been a little warmer, but it did get up to 55, which is practically a heat wave here and it was sunny, most of the time. We have long wanted to bring our bikes here to try out the nation’s most bike-friendly city, or so it’s been called (although a couple from Portland, Oregon who we met today at our b&b weren’t sure if it could beat Portland.image

must admit it beat Des Moines, much as I am a fan our our trails. These are just so well laid out and organized, with two trails, one for bikes, one for walkers, most of the time – at least on the portion of the grand round trail we rode.

then the scenery! I am still deciding which lake I want to live along, not to mention which of the many mansions and lovely homes. We rode from the lake of the isles to lake Calhoun and lake harriet(which as a very Nordic looking bandshell and then along a winding creek full of water, bordered by a parkway with more lovely homes to minnehaha falls which was full of water that came crashing down into the creek. There were still some very solid blocks of snow down there.image

we rode north along the Mississippi! past the first lock and dam; the frank gehry-designed museum at u of Minnesota ((which doesn’t look as shiny as it once did) and then to the super cool new Guthrie theater with the navy blue cantilever deck and behind it the old Gold Medal Flour mill that’s become a museum. the mill “ruins” park with the shell of an old building is on my list to check out more. We kept riding to the warehouse district and north loop where we tried be’witched sandwich shop (on washington age) and were more impressed with it than last time. Excellent pastrami sandwich and pulled pork sandwich.

We rode back to our Lowrey hill b&b through downtown on Nicollet Mall(good place for cyclists) , stopping to wave to the Mary Tyler Moore sculpture (or Mary Richards) then thru loring park and over the way cool siah aramanji bridge over one of the worlds more confusing intersections, past the sculpture garden and the Walker art center? great and pretty flat and easy ride.

Leave a comment

Filed under Minneapolis, Minnesota, Uncategorized

back in Minneapolis– evelo’s and spyglass coffee in uptown and Salty Tart

nice to be back in Minneapolis after three years. We stayed at our favorite b&b which we found 24 years ago, Evelo’s, an old charming house with parquet floors, shabby chic furnishings and a gorgeous collection of art nouveau Tiffany stained glass lamps. The owners were at the opera until 11 so we easily killed a half hour at the spyglass coffee house, nearby on Hennepin. bit precious but the coffee really was impressive (mine supposedly had a hint of s’mores which we decided would probably taste like a charred marshmallow with a little bit of grass on it after having fallen off the stick I dangled over the fire. Didn’t pick up that hint.)

On Saturday afternoon we went to the Salty Tart Bakery in the Midtown Global market, an international bazaar  of sorts in a cool old former Sears store. The bakery was sadly out of its famous brioche. Not to worry, they appeared at breakfast at Evelo’s on Sunday.

20140502-233145.jpg

20140502-233204.jpg

20140502-233219.jpg

Leave a comment

Filed under Minneapolis, Minnesota

Go WuShock and the Wichita State Shockers!

WuShock: A True Original

Fun to see WuShock (above) – the world’s weirdest college team mascot – in the news WuShock in the New York Times and even better to see Wichita State in the N.C.A.A. basketball tournament. I know I’m supposed to be rooting for an Iowa team or U of Kansas (this IS a Jayhawks household) but my heart is with underdog Wichita State, which gets scant recognition compared to powerhouses like Kansas and Iowa, and with WuShock (for the record: a shock – or bundled pile – of wheat that looks like, um, a demented version of the Wizard of Oz’s scarecrow (below).

Leave a comment

Filed under Wichita

good burger at NorthPoint one the Milwaukee Airport

I was sad to learn that usinger’s, the famous sausage maker, no longer has an outpost in the Milwaukee airport but I had a very good burger with cheddar cheese and grilled onions at NorthPoint in the main terminal. I could see the cook flipping the burgers on a grill through a window by my table. good frozen custard too. Best of all my flight left ahead of time. Only wish it was a direct flight to Des Moines, which used to be available a few years ago. Now you have to take two puddle jumpers, via Minneapolis.

Leave a comment

Filed under DINING, Milwaukee

Milwaukee in the snow

Amtrak finally got me to Milwaukee, but three hours late. Our 10:25 am train was delayed and delayed until it merged with the 1:05 pm. Oh well. Much of the ride was thru a white out of snow. In Milwaukee I had to trek through pelting snow up the hill to my hotel, the hilton city center. I was one of the few people on the street at 3 pm and although the snow was so intense I couldn’t look up without pf getting hit in the face with snow, I made it to the Milwaukee public market where I had a very late lunch at a salad/sandwich/juice bar called The Green Kitchen and then wandered thru the snow to explore the Third Ward warehouse district. I had an early dinner at Kiku, a Japanese place near the hotel, and returned to the hilton looking like the abominable snow woman, my boots caked with snow, my jeans wet, snow covering my blue coat. very happy to be in bed watching white and Davis from my home state of Michigan win the gold Olympic medal for ice dancing.

20140217-222136.jpg

20140217-222157.jpg

20140217-222217.jpg

20140217-222229.jpg

Leave a comment

Filed under Milwaukee

What to see en route from Ames Iowa to Coffeyville Kansas?

 

Largest Community Rolled Ball of Twine in Cawker City, Kansas

From time to time, I field questions from friends like the one below (a Kansas native, I might add,  who is a longtime Iowa transplant.)

A friend is driving down to Coffeeville, Kansas from Ames and wants to know what weird and wonderful things he should stop and see along the way. So up your alley!
 
Is the biggest ball of string even remotely along the way? He’s willing to go a little off the beaten path, and loves quirky things.
 
What can you recommend?

Wow – that route is a challenge. If he takes 169 south from Kansas city – which appears to be the fastest route – he’ll just miss the Flint Hills, which are one of my favorite Kansas places. If he takes 69 south, another option, he’ll go through some places I remember as interesting – Fort Scott, Baxter Springs and Pittsburg. He should check out this story on southeast Kansas from the NYTimes Frugal Traveler done http://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/07/travel/in-kansas-museums-fried-chicken-and-yes-oz.html last summer.

 As for the aforementioned “biggest ball of string, ” it is actually “the second largest ball of twine” (or sometimes the largest depending on the definition) and it’s in Cawker City – in North Central Kansas so not on your friend’s route, alas.  How weird is it that I know this stuff?

Route 66 Soda Fountain, 2008 in Baxter Springs!

2 Comments

Filed under Kansas, Kansas misc

Milwaukee in February – why not?

It’s hard to get excited about a trip to Milwaukee in February – especially when it’s been so darned cold here in the Upper Midwest. But the NYTimes travel section yesterday had a story about the Walker’s Point area that got me a little psyched. (Granted I’ll be there more for work than pleasure but hope to sneak in a quick walk around town.) Here’s the story:  In Milwaukee a district for a bite or a brew

Of particular interest to moi:

BRAISE

Servers note that 90 percent of ingredients used at the two-year-old restaurant — with the exception of coffee, tea, spices, citrus and chocolate — are sourced from regional farms. Menus change daily, but the cooking by the chef David Swanson is consistently hearty and robust.

1101 South Second Street; 414-212-8843; braiselocalfood.com

CLOCK SHADOW CREAMERY AND PURPLE DOOR ICE CREAM (The cheese appeals more than the ice cream this winter)

A cheesemaker and a separate ice cream business share production and retail space in the newly built, LEED-certified Clock Shadow Building. Tours ($3) offered by the urban creamery (come Wednesday or Friday to see the popular cheese curds being made), culminate in cheese samplings. The popular Purple Door, known for unusual ice cream flavors like whiskey or chai with pink peppercorn, plans to move at the end of the month and reopen nearby in March.

Clock Shadow Creamery, 138 West Bruce Street; 414-273-9711;clockshadowcreamery.com. Purple Door Ice Cream, 205 South Second Street; purpledooricecream.com.

ANTIQUES ON SECOND

The biggest of several antiques stores in the area, this one opened in 2010 in two merged early-19th-century warehouses. Shoppers can ride the operator-manned freight elevator between three floors stuffed with vintage clothes, wood chests, record collections and eclectic finds like a midcentury vinyl living room set.

1039 South Second Street; 414-645-9640; antiquesonsecond.com

Leave a comment

Filed under Milwaukee

From a frequent Nebraska visitor: Alexander Payne gets it right

Thoroughly enjoyed Alexander Payne’s movie Nebraska, an affectionate, matter-of-fact, funny, respectful, honest and true-to-life depiction of the kind of small worn-out rural town in Nebraska (or Kansas, Iowa, and South Dakota) that I never dreamt I would know so well. But I do. (Witness the photo below of Kinsley, Kansas.)

I was worried the movie would be too bleak or depressing, in its black and white account of a mentally failing cranky old drunk who goes on a quixotic road trip from Montana to Nebraska with his long suffering sad sack son to collect a million dollars he mistakenly thinks he’s won through one of those bogus magazine sweepstakes. I also worried that the movie would ridicule the folks in these parts. But this movie wasn’t directed by the Coen Brothers, no snottiness here. it just tells it like it is. it feels dead-on, right and real.

Nor does the movie stoop to false sentiment or glorification of the place and people. There is greed and small mindedness and boorishness but also warmth and kindness. None of it flashy or effusive, of course. Payne captured the stark beauty of the treeless landscape, the quiet emptiness of small town Nebraska, the stoic solid nature of its residents, the lack of drama. Things do happen, the action ebbs and flows, the story moves forward, there are funny, sad, touching moments, but the tone remains steady and true. There is no swelling manipulative soundtrack.

I loved the movies’ silences (brave for a filmmaker), the soundless landscape, the sparse monosyllabic conversation, the quiet acceptance of surprises along the journey. I have grown to respect these places that are so foreign to the one where I grew up and Payne, who did grow up in Nebraska, obviously does too.

After the movie, the scene I encountered while waiting in line in the bathroom of the Des Moines theater felt like an extension of the movie.
“Did you like it?” An older woman asked her friend.
Silence.
“Yes,” her friend responded.
Silence.
“Might be hard to recommend to just anyone. Not like ‘Saving Mr Banks.'”
Silence.
“Yah. There weren’t a lot of lines.”

20140104-210143.jpg

Leave a comment

Filed under Nebraska

Tale of 3 restaurants: tres amigos/dodge city; saigon/wichita; & story./prairie village

The “El Capitan” cattle drive monument, Dodge City

Our dinner tonight at story., an upscale new American cuisine restaurant, in a fancy shopping area in the Kansas City suburb of Prairie Village could not have differed more from dinner last night at Tres Amigos, on Wyatt Earp Blvd. in Dodge City. But both were good in their own way. story. Has a clean dramatic decor with dimly lit white walls and large pieces of understated contemporary art. I had a beautifully prepared and presented piece of red snapper, with a slightly crispy crust but light and moist inside, atop a bed of sautéed spinach, salty bits of pancetta and a light lemon wine sauce. another stand out was the braised short rib with gnocchi and onion rings. best of all was the company, a favorite uncle who lives in Kansas City.

Tres Amigos is a much humbler place with somewhat ordinary Mexican fare but it easily accommodated our party of nine on a holiday weekday. Today in Wichita we stopped at our favorite Vietnamese restaurant Saigon, which was even busier than usual. but as usual, the service was brisk and the food (#45, bun with charbroiled pork and egg roll!) was fresh and tasty. Discovered the shrimp chips this time and they are much better than the ones I try to make at home. We also stopped at our favorite middle eastern restaurant in Wichita , N&J market, to pick up some hummus and pitta chips to take home.

Leave a comment

Filed under DINING, Dodge City, Kansas, Kansas City, Kansas misc

Oklahoma joes thumbs up

We are breezing down two lane highway 156 towards Ellsworth Kansas on ChristMas eve. Nary another car or soul in sight. The fields are snowy, the sky is a sunless white-grey, the temperature is up to 25, who hoo! Better than the frigid sunny 9 degree weather that greeted us this morning in the icy parking lot of the Baymont Inn in Lawrence (where I slept fitfully on a too soft mattress.)

Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ was indeed in a gas station in Kansas City, Ks, which added to its street cred and quirky charm. (Pix below) The ribs and brisket were, as reported, excellent. On a Mpnday night, the line to order at the counter was long but moved fairly quickly and everyone was in a cheerful, pre-holiday mood. The ribs were meaty and moist, well seasoned, good sauce on the sweet side, akin to Gates. Also had good sides …spicy coleslaw, beans with chunks of beef in them, seasoned fries. We will be back!

This morning we had an excellent breakfast at Milton’s in Lawrence, stopped to get some goodies at the bakery Wheatfield’s (surprisingly delicious rugelah, a rustic rosemary bread, pecan raisin bread) then hit interstate 70 west. man this road is empty (although behind us somewhere are our kids in another car). This annual road trip to Wright, Kansas, this time of year, always feels like we are driving to the end of the earth.

The sky has just turned hazy and we are not sure if there is fog or blowing snow ahead.

 

 

Leave a comment

Filed under DINING, Kansas, Kansas City, Kansas misc, Uncategorized