Category Archives: Kansas misc

Tale of 3 restaurants: tres amigos/dodge city; saigon/wichita; & story./prairie village

The “El Capitan” cattle drive monument, Dodge City

Our dinner tonight at story., an upscale new American cuisine restaurant, in a fancy shopping area in the Kansas City suburb of Prairie Village could not have differed more from dinner last night at Tres Amigos, on Wyatt Earp Blvd. in Dodge City. But both were good in their own way. story. Has a clean dramatic decor with dimly lit white walls and large pieces of understated contemporary art. I had a beautifully prepared and presented piece of red snapper, with a slightly crispy crust but light and moist inside, atop a bed of sautéed spinach, salty bits of pancetta and a light lemon wine sauce. another stand out was the braised short rib with gnocchi and onion rings. best of all was the company, a favorite uncle who lives in Kansas City.

Tres Amigos is a much humbler place with somewhat ordinary Mexican fare but it easily accommodated our party of nine on a holiday weekday. Today in Wichita we stopped at our favorite Vietnamese restaurant Saigon, which was even busier than usual. but as usual, the service was brisk and the food (#45, bun with charbroiled pork and egg roll!) was fresh and tasty. Discovered the shrimp chips this time and they are much better than the ones I try to make at home. We also stopped at our favorite middle eastern restaurant in Wichita , N&J market, to pick up some hummus and pitta chips to take home.

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Filed under DINING, Dodge City, Kansas, Kansas City, Kansas misc

Oklahoma joes thumbs up

We are breezing down two lane highway 156 towards Ellsworth Kansas on ChristMas eve. Nary another car or soul in sight. The fields are snowy, the sky is a sunless white-grey, the temperature is up to 25, who hoo! Better than the frigid sunny 9 degree weather that greeted us this morning in the icy parking lot of the Baymont Inn in Lawrence (where I slept fitfully on a too soft mattress.)

Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ was indeed in a gas station in Kansas City, Ks, which added to its street cred and quirky charm. (Pix below) The ribs and brisket were, as reported, excellent. On a Mpnday night, the line to order at the counter was long but moved fairly quickly and everyone was in a cheerful, pre-holiday mood. The ribs were meaty and moist, well seasoned, good sauce on the sweet side, akin to Gates. Also had good sides …spicy coleslaw, beans with chunks of beef in them, seasoned fries. We will be back!

This morning we had an excellent breakfast at Milton’s in Lawrence, stopped to get some goodies at the bakery Wheatfield’s (surprisingly delicious rugelah, a rustic rosemary bread, pecan raisin bread) then hit interstate 70 west. man this road is empty (although behind us somewhere are our kids in another car). This annual road trip to Wright, Kansas, this time of year, always feels like we are driving to the end of the earth.

The sky has just turned hazy and we are not sure if there is fog or blowing snow ahead.

 

 

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Filed under DINING, Kansas, Kansas City, Kansas misc, Uncategorized

New places to visit in Kansas!

Somehow I managed to miss a Kansas travel story by “the frugal traveler”  in the paper version of the New York Times Travel section a few weeks ago but I did spot the ipad version. Frugal Traveler visits Kansas.

I Married Adventure by Osa Johnson

The story includes many places familiar to people like me who are familiar with Kansas (Flint Hills, Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, Strong City, Cottonwood Falls, Council Grove, Pittsburg). But it also mentions several (see below)  that I need to check out during my next visit(s). Curious to see what the frugal traveler makes of my current home state – Iowa (which apparently was his next stop after Kansas.)

Osa with a gibbon in an airplane

In Pittsburg: Gebhardt Chicken Dinners (and the better-advertised Chicken Annie’s and Chicken Mary’s)

In Chanute:  the Martin and Osa Johnson Safari Museum (safarimuseum.com)

In Strong City: Ad Astra, a locavore-ish, vegetarian-friendly restaurant and bar

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Filed under Agritourism, Kansas misc

Wichita’s Saigon market/NuWay and KC’s Gates

 

Original NuWay located on Douglas Avenue in Wichita, Kansas.

Must say I was impressed with the Best Western north of Wichita this time – more so than the last two. They seem to have bought new mattresses and a new chef who has improved the breakfasts. Nothing fancy but works well for our big crowd/family reunion.

I did sneak out for a few hours to show our Israeli visitor, who is living with us for a few weeks, downtown Wichita and we stopped for a milkshake at the quintessential soda fountain at the original NuWay – very American, very friendly place. She appreciated. Today, we went with a small group of relatives to Saigon Market, my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in Wichita – which is saying a lot since there are several. Good service, food, ambiance. And we did pick up some Gates BBQ ribs “packed to travel” on the way home – so we’ll have a ready made dinner tomorrow. The weather was strange in Wichita – usually it’s so hot you don’t want to step outside the hotel. This time, it was cool and this morning almost cold, with rain.

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Filed under Kansas, Kansas City, Kansas misc, Wichita

In Kansas, thinking of Pennsylvania

Morning in a small town in western Kansas, the wind whipping across endless green and tawny fields beyond the big bay window where my mother-in-law’s red geraniums thrive in intense sunlight. Even from inside the house, you hear the wind, thick and muffled, as it bashes into the walls and windows; and see the wind, in mighty gusts, as it buffets every which way the branches of the few trees out here.

This sprawling split-level, 1960’s tan-brick ranch house in an unincorporated Kansas town, pop. about 100, could not be more different from the upright two-story, early 1900’s red-brick row house in Easton, Pennsylvania, pop. 26,800 today (probably more when I was a kid in the 1960s) where my grandmother lived and I spent many a summer and holiday, visiting from Michigan.

But as I got up today and padded into this big empty home on the range in my bare feet, I felt like I was back in Grama Betty’s small house on the East Coast. Both were once so full of people and life, our lives, and now they’re not. Gradually they filled up and just as gradually, they emptied out, the shift going unnoticed at first and then suddenly painfully obvious.

Both remain so full of memories at every turn, memories big and small, of celebrations and gatherings and laughing fits and hurt feelings and big moments but even more, of commonplace, everyday events, the minor moments, I guess, but not so minor since, combined, they became the stuff of our lives. This is where we once were all together.

In the struggling industrial city along the Delaware River where my Grandma lived (once the proud home of Dixie Cup and Crayola, who needs the neighbors’ steel!), her three-bedroom house at the corner of 8th and Spring Garden Streets had small well-defined spaces, each with a clear, distinct purpose. Her house, our house, was one of many packed closely together on a narrow street, each with its front porch and tiny yard out back. My grandma’s block was toward the top of a steep hill and from a second story bedroom, I loved looking south down to town, at the fraying city way below. And that’s where the view ended. It was a vertical view, all up and down, top to bottom, so unlike the view from this big rambling house in a speck of a town surrounded by wheat, cattle, corn and the occasional feedlot, kill plant, wind turbine farm and nitrogen fertilizer factory (owned by the infamous Koch Brothers, no less).

Here outside Dodge City (which has about as many residents as Easton), the house’s main room is a high-ceilinged, open plan affair where the kitchen flows into the dining area which flows into the living room, shades of The Brady Bunch house, a precursor of today’s pompously-named Great Room. A smattering of other homes, tiny battered bungalows and more spacious, contemporary ranches, form a loose cluster around the tall, humming grain elevator, the town’s focal point. The houses seem to have sprouted up willy-nilly, as need be, with plenty of space between them and wide front lawns and oddly configured backyards, sitting along dirt roads only recently named (so ambulances and fire trucks can find them, if need be).

The view from my in-laws’ house, beyond the small graveyard where my father-in-law and my brother-in-law are buried (a brother-in- law I never met; he died at age 19, as a soldier in Vietnam) is never-ending. Land and sky. Land and sky. Land and sky. Sometimes a few cows, a tractor, a pickup whizzing by on the paved two-lane highway. The view is horizontal, all wide and across, all horizon, a view that never stops.

Yet oddly, I feel like I am in Easton today. Or maybe, not so oddly.

My grandma’s house is further along in the inevitable process of acquiring that ghostly aura, that sentimental presence from the past, of becoming what was rather than what is, of attaining family shrine status. It has not been ours, technically, for years. Grandma died in the 1980’s, and grandpa way before that. Years ago, staying in Easton during my 20s, when Grama was in the hospital, I had the same jarring experience that I had here today, of being alone in a house that was always so busy and crowded. Now, on the rare occasion when I pass through Easton I can only lay claim to our house from an awkward perch on the sidewalk, in front of the porch where I spent so many hours as a kid rocking in a big white wooden chair. Someone else owns the house. But it will always belong to me, to us, our family.

My mother-in-law still owns this house but she doesn’t live here anymore. Her husband of 50-some years died last year. Approaching 90 and increasingly frail, my husband’s mother now lives in Dodge, in a nursing home. My husband is picking her up, as I type, to bring her back home so she can go to her beloved Sunday morning church service at the town’s sole church. So this house is still ours, more theirs since I’m an in-law, but very much my Iowa children’s, who will remember it as deeply, in an almost tactile or physical way, not just through their emotions, as I remember my Grandma’s house.

Here, there are still family photos at every turn, familiar furniture and knickknacks and paintings by the family artist, reminders everywhere of the lives led. The scorecard from the family Scrabble game last Christmas (when L. proudly triumphed), the ancient wedding photos and awkward adolescent photos, the souvenirs from family vacations, the unreturned library book from God knows when, the gifts unused but always thoughtfully displayed, the battered, out of tune piano, the McGovern campaign buttons, the South American handicrafts.

There’s still some beer and viable food in the frig, left behind by the last visitor, and viable pots and pans to cook with, once you find them., although I found out the hard way that there was a hole in one plastic bowl, after eggs I’d cracked and set aside to scramble started dripping out from some opening, forming a sticky yellow pool by the time I noticed them. (Here’s an idea for a reality show: Cooking in your mother-in-law’s kitchen! Better yet, cooking with your in-laws for your in-laws in your mother-in-law’s kitchen! Think of the possibilities, the drama, tensions, conflicts, disasters, heartwarming moments. All this and recipes!)

There are some years left to be lived in this house but not as many as there once were. A lot of the clutter is gone, more kitchen shelves are bare, the old cereal boxes and the old wooden bread bin finally thrown out. The commotion is gone too, for now. We will all gather here again, at Christmas at least, and no doubt for other occasions to come. But this morning it is so quiet. Maybe that’s why the wind sounds so loud.

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Filed under Kansas misc, Pennsylvania2

Kansas City and Lawrence dining

We splurged on dinner Friday night in downtown Kansas City at a cool new restaurant that harkens back to the 1920’s mob era and allegedly produced whiskey during prohibition. I have it on good authority that the Rieger Hotel Grill does indeed has in the men’s bathroom reading “Al Capone pissed here.” The food was very good – soft shell crab with lemon aioli and greens; pork cheek with “local polenta” ( according to the menu) and ” some kind of pea and carrot thing” (according to D.). it has a nice vibe, an old fashioned narrow high ceilinged storefront with nice impressionistic paintings of what appeared to be a symphony orchestra (bravo!). Good to see these kinds of places popping up in reclaimed once dying parts of downtown. must check out another newcomer nearby, Anton’s Tap Room.

In Lawrence, after staying at a tolerable (and cheap) Quality Inn, we breezed through the farmers market which had several guitar playing folk singers and lots of green onions. We ate breakfast at the brand new location of Milton’s, which moved to a bigger place around the block from its previous spot on Massachusetts Ave. (fun fact: Lawrence is was named after Lawrence, Mass. Outside Boston, which must have been a bigger deal in the 1850s when Lawrence Ks was founded as a Free State bastion…where John Brown hung out.) Good French toast at Milton’s although we were tempted to eat across the street at The Bourgeois Pig, for the name alone! Picked up a bread at Wheatfields Bakery, a couple of Jayhawks Basketball t-shirts ( because the males in this family cannot get enough of them) and hit the road again, heading West.

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Way to go (Wichita State) Shockers! And bring it on WuShock!

WuShock: A True Original

WuShock: A True Original

If the Jayhawks couldn’t be in the Final Four (much to the dismay of the huge Kansas basketball fans in this Iowa household), there is some consolation in seeing the Wichita State Shockers make it to the Final Four  – along with one of the sports world’s stranger mascots WUShock – which for the uninitiated is a figure based on a shock (or bundle) of wheat!! (“What is THAT?” I remember thinking when I first moved to Wichita in the late 1980’s for a job on the local newspaper.)

Go Shockers!

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Presidential also-ran museum in Norton Kansas…

Former Massachusetts governor Mitt Romney’s portrait is the most recent addition to the “They Also Ran Gallery,” above a bank lobby in Norton, Kan.

Former Massachusetts governor Mitt Romney’s portrait is the most recent addition to the “They Also Ran Gallery,” above a bank lobby in Norton, Kan.

Now this is my kind of museum – dedicated to losing politicians, people who fought the good fight and lost but lived to see another day with their portraits on the walls of a museum in Norton, Kansas – which I see is in northwest Kansas, not far from the only place I wanted to go to up there, the near ghost town of Nicodemus, where there once was a sizable black community.  Apparently it’s not really a museum, really a portrait gallery in a room at a local bank (The First State Bank.)Here’s info on the museum in Norton (which just hung the photo up of Mitt Romney) and of Nicodemus, billed as the only remaining western town established by African Americans during the post-Civil War Reconstruction. (Last I heard there wasn’t much left there.)

A formal photograph of a stoic Mitt Romney has been hung in a small portrait gallery in Norton, Kan. The 2012 Republican presidential nominee and former Massachusetts governor was not present for the unveiling. His campaign did not even supply the official image. But the community’s enthusiasm was undiminished. Norton is home to what is believed to be the only museum in America dedicated to presidential runners-up. Romney was taking his rightful place in a pantheon of losers. (Boston globe)

Nicodemus National Historic Site, located in Nicodemus, Kansas, United States, preserves, protects and interprets the only remaining western town established by African Americans during the Reconstruction Period following the American Civil War. The town of Nicodemus is symbolic of the pioneer spirit of African Americans who dared to leave the only region they had been familiar with to seek personal freedom and the opportunity to develop their talents and capabilities. The site was named for a legendary African-American slave who purchased his freedom.

Nicodemus in 1885

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Dog stops on highway 54 east of dodge city, I-35 north of emporia

We found a good park to walk Ernie on highway 54 in Pratt, Kansas, the halfway point between dodge city and Wichita (roughly.) it’s called Zenger Park, a small patch of yellowed frozen grass with a classic wind whipped Kansas tree and some antiquated playground equipment and an empty concrete wading pool. perfect…

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And then of course there is the rest stop north of Emporia on Interstate 35 just past the Flint Hills…

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The welcoming committee in wright Kansas

The canine welcoming committee was waiting for Ernie, our vizsla, when we took our first walk in the small town of wright, Kansas where my husband grew up. Three dogs were waiting in a pack in the driveway as Ernie came out on her leash, pulling me behind her. Although Ernie seemed game, I wasn’t sure our city dog was ready to roam with these townie scruffs so we stared each other down for a few minutes until they appeared to lose interest and trotted off down the dirt road toward the church.

Today it was so cold and windy and snowy that I never made it out the door and Ernie took a few very brief walks with other attending adults. Back to Iowa tomorrow. Below is a photo of my other in law on her 89th birthday (Xmas eve) with some of her grandchildren….

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