Category Archives: 3) DESTINATIONS — in the U.S.

Thank you Hotel San Jose — Austin, Texas

In the “it pays to ask category” I give you this short tale. After one night in a room overlooking busy South Congress street and the immortal Continental Club across the street (which I would rather visit than sleep, or try to sleep, across the street from) I politely inquired if there was a quieter room available tonight. and here I am in a beautiful quiet suite at the rear of this super stylish rehabbed motor court, upgraded to boot with no additional cost. Thank you!! After a long work day here, this is a very nice place to land. Only problem is I may not want to leave. And I have plans with an old friend tonight.
I haven’t had much time to explore but did enjoy a BBQ pork sandwich at Jo’s Good Food, next door and dinner with some work colleagues at Vespaio, a welcoming Italian restaurant also on South Congrss. Also fun to browse in a few of the vintage shops and boutiques and cowboy boots stores here, although most seem pretty pricey. look forward to exploring a bit more tomorrow before my flight home.

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Where to eat in Philly – Zahav!

I’ve been recommending this restaurant for about five years, ever since my son and I ate there during a college visit trip (and my son has since graduated from college) but I can never remember the name. So I’m posting it here for safekeeping (and because my stepdaughter, who is going on a weekend trip to Philly, asked for specifics.)

The restaurant is Zahav, serving Israeli/Middle Eastern fare, somewhat expensive as I recall but it looks like there’s some offshoots that may be less pricy.
See http://www.zahavrestaurant.com/ and for the interesting backstory about back story about how the chef had a drug issue see:  http://articles.philly.com/2014-08-13/news/52732976_1_zahav-philly-chef-chef-michael-solomonov

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Finding my way around a place I used to live: Stamford

Stew's

Stew’s

New England scene, Trumbull

New England scene, Trumbull

I easily found the house I lived in some 28 years ago, although it has clearly been restored to its former glory (before five 20-somethings, including me, rented it). There it was, all tarted up on Interlaken Road, just off High ridge Road and exit 35 of the Merritt Parkway. But I was soon lost in downtown Stamford, whose skyline has radically changed since my days as a reporter there. I never did find the Stamford Advocate. I am pretty sure it is not where it once was. Oh well. I moved onto to SoNo (south Norwalk) and it took me awhile to get my gap bearings there too although I finally remembered Washington street was the old heart of the renovated area! which has now spread beyond to several other blocks.

Fortunately Stew Leonard’s, the mega supermarket/ kids funhouse is much the same and the place still makes me smile with its kitschy Chuckie Cheese-like figures dotting the food displays. fortunately the food looks as good as ever and my suitcase is full of bagels, bialys and a Cronut or two (part croissant, part donut). oh and two cans of bumblebee tuna, which I can’t seem to find anymore in Iowa. Myra and I had a good lunch at Valencia lucheria, a taqueria  in Norwalk…I had an arepa with pork (sort of a deep I ate is called. it’s Venezuelan.

Ye olde house...Stamford

Ye olde house…Stamford

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Good eats in New Britain, Fairfield, Monroe Connecticut

Fairfield beach with Myra

Fairfield beach with Myra

Work brought me to the central Connecticut city of New Britain but I arrived hungry and in a hurry after an early morning flight from Iowa. Looking for a place to grab a quick bite before a 2:30 pm meeting, I was prepared for something like Subway. Instead I got lucky and stumbled upon a terrific homey deli called Angelo’s where I had an excellent tuna sub, a safe and dull option given all the other good options (Stromboli sandwiches, loaves of bread slathered with pesto etc) but it did the trick.

In Monroe last night with BFF Myra and her lovely daughter Emma (shout out to Shane, are you reading?) We had a delicious meal on the patio of Tula...good sandwiches, pasta, salads, flat breads.) I had bucatini alla amitriana (sort of a red sauce version of carbonara with out the cream but with the bacon.)

The next night we picked up salads at Chefs Table in Fairfield and had primo seats, on the beach in Fairfield. Perfect night with old friends.

Beach picnic with Myra and David, Fairfield.

Beach picnic with Myra and David, Fairfield.

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Car-less in Colorado

Today’s guest blog is from Francine, my London chum, who had a fabulous trip in Boulder. Her precise prose will put mine to shame!

 

 

This summer, Russell and I  decided to spend our annual holiday in the USA and take up Betsy’s challenge to come to Iowa and ride Ragbrai 2014 with her and Dirck. That is another blog. This one is about going Green and why you don’t need to rent a car to have a fabulous time in Colorado.

Before plopping down in Des Moines, to prepare ourselves for the insanity of cycling 418 miles across Iowa, we decided to go to Boulder, Colorado.   Betsy recommended that we stay in a wonderful place called Chautauqua on the outskirts of Boulder. As anybody knows who reads her blogs regularly, Betsy’s picks are the best. However, how on earth were we going to get there once we had landed in Denver?  Betsy automatically assumed we would rent a car as did everybody else we knew. We thought we would too. After all, we needed to get to Boulder which is about an hour away from Denver International Airport (DIA). We had a lot of luggage which included amongst other things, our cycling gear, my beloved sheepskin saddle cover and gifts from London. To cap it all, we were arriving late into the evening. We wanted to go to the Rocky Mountains National Park. A car was essential right? Well actually no. Boulder is one of the greenest cities in the USA we had heard. Practically everyone has a bicycle. There had to be a way to do this without emitting more carbon into the atmosphere.  So we thought we would give it a go.

We arrived at DIA at about 11.30pm, after our flight had been delayed for nearly 3 hours at London Heathrow airport. So it was just as well, I had booked a budget hotel on the perimeter of the airport overnight. We were too knackered to push a luggage trolley, let alone drive a car in a strange city on the wrong side of the road. Our hotel had a free courtesy bus immediately outside the terminal which ran every half hour. We could have also taken a taxi at around $25 but there were long queues. As Betsy would say, the airport was a bit “zooey” despite the lateness of the hour. Within 20 minutes of taking the bus, we had checked in, showered and collapsed into bed.

On the porch at the cottage in Chautauqua

On the porch at the cottage in Chautauqua

The next morning, we hopped on the courtesy bus back to the airport and picked up a small shuttle van to take us to Boulder. The shuttle is operated by Green Ride www.greenrideboulder.com  a company, based in Boulder We were dropped in Chautauqua, a fascinating historical district of Boulder, in just over an hour. On the way, we delivered a fellow passenger to Eldorado Springs, giving us our first close up view of the wonderful Flatiron Mountains.

Once we got settled in to our delightful cottage, built in the 1920s and managed by the Colorado Chautauqua Association www.chautauqua.com  we decided to explore Boulder. We asked the pleasant young woman in the Accommodation Office how to get into town and she started to give us driving directions. She was rather surprised and then thrilled when we said we did not have a car and intended to walk or get a bus downtown. She told us the best way to get to the center of Boulder was to walk down 9th  Street opposite the main entrance to the Chautauqua Park. This would take us to the famous Pearl Street Mall where we would find shops, bars and restaurants galore.   The walk is a brisk 20-25 minutes downhill and takes you through a leafy residential area, past a well maintained cemetery and then over a bridge across Boulder Creek.  The walk is approximately 1.5 miles but is slightly more strenuous on the way back as it’s up hill. There is a circular bus  about halfway down 9th Street at College Avenue. It goes clockwise and anti-clockwise as far as Twenty Ninth Street Mall. The bus goes through downtown, past the RDT bus terminal and appears to continue until quite late into the evening. We jumped on it once and ended up going the wrong direction. We didn’t mind. It gave us an opportunity to see the huge campus of the University of Colorado. The bus turns round at the newish looking  Mall which looks as if it has been sympathetically designed to meet the sensibilities of the good people of Boulder.

We were lucky to be in Chautauqua in the summer which meant that there are usually nightly concerts in the Association’s splendid old Auditorium throughout July and August. The city of Boulder provides a free shuttle bus (The Hop) from Pearl Street Mall starting in the late afternoon so people can get a ride up the hill to Chautauqua, have a drink or meal on the verandah of the Dining Hall or picnic on the grass before the concert. The buses take people back to Pearl Street after the concert is over.  We took this free bus a couple of times when we found ourselves in town. We also went to excellent concert. I can recommend the Carolina Chocolate Drops www.carolinachocolatedrops.com  an eclectic band from North Carolina who entertained the audience with variety of folk songs, jigs and jazzy blues.

But if you come to this part of the world, you have to get on a bike at some point. We also needed to get some training in before Ragbrai. There are some great bicycle shops in Boulder where you can buy the latest tight fitting jersey or bike shorts.  We rented bikes for two days from Full Cycle www.fullcyclebikes.com at a cost of $45 dollars each. The staff were very helpful and the bikes were well maintained. We cycled west along the Boulder Creek bike path towards the mountains and then east across the city to Valmont Park, scattering manic prairie dogs in our wake. The next day we headed north to Wonderland Lake Park where we were greeted with warning signs about rattle-snakes although we didn’t see any!  On the way back, we stopped at an unpretentious vegan café, Julia’s Kitchen, 3980 Broadway http://juliaskitchenboulder.wordpress.com/  and enjoyed a plate of delicious hummus and crackers. Boulder has an incredible network of car-free bike paths and designated routes to explore. Pick up a free bicycle path map from the tourist information booth in Pearl Street Mall.

We were worried that our desire to go car-less  would be defeated by our determination to also  visit the spectacular Rocky Mountains National Park which is about 50 or so miles away from Boulder. There is no public bus from Boulder and the private charter sightseeing tours are expensive.  We discovered a company that shuttles between Denver International Airport, Boulder and Estes Park www.estesparkshuttle.com   which picked us up outside the RDT bus terminal in Boulder in the morning and deposited us back in the evening. The cost was $85 round trip per person. The journey takes about an hour and we travelled along a now repaired highway which had been virtually destroyed by serious flooding in 2013. Most houses along the road have been rebuilt but huge trees remain upturned and some homes are sadly abandoned.

The shuttle drops  people  off either in the town of Estes Park or  in the park itself. We got off at Beaver Meadows Visitors Centre, which is in the park and transferred to a free “Hikers Shuttle”. This took us to a Park and Ride car park where we found yet another free shuttle bus service going to either Bear Lake or Moraine Park. Both spots offer a number of spectacular trails. Although, we returned to Boulder on the same day, avid hikers could decide to stay in Estes Park for longer and use the town’s network of no less than 5 free shuttle buses to explore the Rocky Mountains National Park and surrounding area more thoroughly.

We spent the last couple of days in in what Mike, the Estes Park shuttle bus driver, dubbed “The People’s Republic of Boulder” using the best form of transport at our disposal, our legs!  Following clearly marked trails, we walked into the mountains relishing the pure air and wild flowers of the Flatirons. At the end of our 6 day stay, Green Ride shuttled us back to Denver airport. We were sad to leave but also delighted to have minimized our carbon footprint, saved money, upped our fitness levels and supported the community.  The best bit was meeting local people on buses, shuttles and bike shops, all of whom were very pleased that we were making such an effort to use their services. Going Car-less in Colorado is not only possible, it’s also great fun.  I think  we did Betsy proud!

Francine and Russell Selfie

Francine and Russell Selfie

 

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Good news and not for our Brits vacationing in Boulder this week

 

 

 

Two items about Boulder/thereabouts in the paper today

1) 2nd day in a row lighting has been blamed in the death of a visitor at Rocky Mountain National park – parks’ first lightning fatalities since 2000. ( Didn’t even know this could happen)
 2) on a more cheerful note: Boulder cited as “best bike-friendly city”  “from family friendly paths to leg-searing climbs, Boulder has more than 200 miles of bike paths, lanes and roads with shoulders. The Boulder Creek Path (which we went on…) meanders 5 miles along scenic Boulder Creek (and ends up not far from the veggie burger I mentioned in an earlier email – or at least I think it did.). The reportedly largest free urban bike park in the U.S. is the 40 -acre Valmont Bike Park.”
xox,b

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Travel tips for Boulder – a bit old but better than nothing….

I’m sending friends from London to Boulder to stay at the Chatauqua compound there and realized I haven’t offered many suggestions here on what to do. So here’s some suggestions I sent to other friends back in 2011 when they went there (and had a great time!)

INFO: BOULDER

Activities

 

–        Hike Chautauqua grounds (6.9 mile mesa trail, flatirons)

–       Bike on Boulder Creek Path (details below) Good bike rental in town. We biked to the veggie burger place mentioned below.

–         day trip to Rocky Mountain national Park and lodge for lunch/dinner at Grand Lake nearby!

–        Pearl Street (Friday sidewalk sale)

–        Concerts (Shakespeare Tuesday or Friday; music festival m,w, thur; free at couthouse lawn)

–        Celestial seasonings Tea tour. (izee, white wave tofu, moosehead brew)

–        U of Colorado

–        Swim at Scott carpenter pool

–        Tubing at creek downtown (but dangerous, beware)

 Shops:

–        Common threads, 2707 spruce, consignment

–        Pear street: Six persimmisons, face stuff;Two hands papery, Parsec time and distance – runner.

–        Also on pearl: Outdoor divas,Boulder arts and crafts cooperative, tonic

–      Good farmers market downtown

To eat: we went to highlighted ones.

–        Dushanbe Teahouse, 1770 13th st., – curries, tea, sat. brunch,

–        Sherpa’s Adventures Rest. And bar, 825 walnut; veggie, inidan/tebeta, nepl. (lunch 11-3)

–        VG burger, organic burgers (veggie)

–        Burnt toast (1236 penn. Ave) – breakfast (cold coffee/surley servie)

–        Amante coffee, 4580 broadway

–        Mountain Sub Pub/brewery – pearl st., Sunday night rock, Colorado kind ale.

–        West end, pearl street – breakfast etc.

–        Rhumba, pearl street, live reggae/acoustic sun night.

–        Walnut café, 3037 walnut, breakfast, great view

DENVER: redrock,  art museum

Day trips: (from my friend Thea)

http://www.getboulder.com/things_todo/todo_child.html Scott Carpenter Pool

Rocky Mountain National Park is about 45 minutes away by car from Boulder.  It really is stunning and you can drive around a lot of it – Estes Park, the town just outside the park has a lot of great shops – some very touristy – but some good http://www.estes-park.com/

http://www.rockymountainnp.com/

There is the Central City Opera – an old opera house in what used to be a mining town – and is now a big gambling town – but still fun – I’ve never been there – but it’s supposed to be good http://www.centralcityopera.org/index.cgi?CONTENT_ID=3

Dairy Center is the local arts center        http://www.thedairy.org/

Bounder County Fair    http://www.bouldercountyfair.org

Butterly Pavilion    http://www.butterflies.org/

http://www.coloradoshakes.org/  (shakespeare festival )

http://www.schmap.com/boulder/activities_daytrips/

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 Boulder Creek Path Parallels Arapahoe Avenue Boulder, CO 80302 Tel: +1 303 441 3200 Morganka@ci.boulder.co.us

www.ci.boulder.co.us

This paved path, free of motorized vehicles, brings walkers, bikers and inline skaters from the eastern edge of Boulder proper to the mountains. Winding along Boulder Creek, the trail accesses shady, grassy picnic areas and trout ponds. Eventually the pathway meanders through a large park and playground, perfect for kids and dogs. On the trail’s western fringe, just before it wanders into the foothills, kayakers and inner-tubers can negotiate a series of small waterfalls. A section of the path is just a few blocks west of the Pearl Street Mall, and makes for an easy diversion from shopping and a refreshing side trip into nature.

Boulder Falls

Canyon Blvd

Boulder, CO 80302

Fed by mountain snow melt from North Boulder Creek this cascading chute of white water is a true spectacle. Located in a shaded canyon, just minutes west of Boulder, it provides a nice haven from the heat during the height of summer. However, be forewarned that the spot can get crowded. From the intersection of Canyon Boulevard and Ninth Street follow Canyon west for 7.2 miles. The falls are on the right. The site is heavily marked, and there is plenty of parking.

Flagstaff Mountain

Flagstaff Mountain Road

Boulder, CO 80302

Tel: +1 303 441 3408

This meandering mountain road frequented by drivers, bicyclists and ambitious inline skaters offers stunning daytime and nighttime views of Boulder, Denver and the mountains. Attractions include picnic areas, mountain bike trails and the Summit Nature Center, which is open weekends from May to August. The Flagstaff House, one of Boulder’s more romantic dining destinations, is also situated along this scenic road. To get here, follow Baseline Road west; it winds and hairpins more than 1,600 feet to the summit.

               University of Colorado

University Avenue and Broadway

Boulder, CO 80309

Tel: +1 303 492 1411

www.colorado.edu

A visit to Boulder is not complete without a stroll or bike ride through the historic main campus of the University of Colorado. Established in 1876, the year Colorado became a state and Denver became a capital, the university reflects visions of the past while keeping with the growing technological age. The Red Rural Italian Renaissance architecture, implemented on buildings erected after 1912, lush landscaping and gorgeous views of the Flatirons (The) make this one of the most attractive campuses in the nation. Guided tours are available.

Flatirons

3198 Broadway (Parks Department)

Boulder, CO 80302

These giant, Pennsylvanian red sandstone slabs rise as a dramatic backdrop to south Boulder and are the town’s best-known geological landmarks. The alluvial deposits thrust upward into jagged peaks almost 70 million years ago, during the birth of the Rocky Mountains. Today, residents and visitors alike enjoy hiking around the base and climbing the front face of The Flatirons. Towering 1400 feet above Boulder, the Third Flatiron is one of the most popular climbing routes in North America.

 

DAY TRIPS:

–        Peak to peak highway – links estes park with central city – through mountain towns like Meeker Park, allenspark, Raymond and ward (old silver gold camps) and ghost towns like caribou, hiking in Indian peaks area.

–        From Estes Park, the highway climbs into the mountains of southwest Larimer County and skirts the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park, providing the closest vehicle approach to the popular trailhead to the summit of Longs Peak. At the community of Raymond, it turns to the east and follows the St. Vrain River downstream onto the piedmont at Lyons, where it intersects U.S. Highway 36 (the Peak-to-Peak Scenic Byway continues south from Raymond as Colorado State Highway 72). South of Lyons it is concurrent with U.S. 36 along the base of the foothills to Boulder (this section is signed only as U.S. 36).Boulder Falls NEDERLAND!

–        Situated on Colorado’s oldest and one of its most scenic byways, Ward is the ideal Front Range escape. The village is just one highlight along the 55-mile Peak to Peak Byway, just an hour from Denver. Other attractions along the popular circuit include Rocky Mountain National Park, Golden Gate Canyon State Park, Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests, ghost towns, the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area, and Eldora Ski Resort. The historic town of Ward, like many villages in Colorado, was founded on silver. It was once the richest town in the state. When the railroad reached town and the byway grew as a popular tourist route, Ward became a small center of commerce. Ravaged twice by fires, many of the town’s structures were damaged or destroyed. However numerous historic buildings still remain and will make for an interesting self-guided tour.

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Where to stay in the Badlands – Cedar Pass Lodge.

Badlands View 5, SD: ThinkStock
Over the years, people have asked where we stayed during a long ago trip to the Badlands of South Dakota – so I’m posting it here for future reference (and so I don’t have to keep searching for it elsewhere.)
It’s the  Cedar Pass Lodge and it looks like it’s been spruced up since we visited some 8 years ago. I remember individual cabins, that is was  very affordable and a great location, right IN the Badlands so you’d get up in the morning, go out the cabin door and there they were!  I also remember dining was an issue – and we ate at a little cafe right outside the park gates. I think it was the A&M Cafe (in Interior, S.D.) but not sure it’s around anymore. I did find a woodenknife cafe but that appears to have closed too. I recall the Lodge’s cafe didn’t have a good rep but maybe that’s improved too.
I also remember great free guided tours of the Badlands, by day and night (focused on night animals, which I recall was sort of scary sitting in the actual Badlands hearing about all the beasts lurking near by…we did spot a rattlesnake, fortunately during the day.) It rattled! And we were rattled.

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When next in L.A….stuff to check out

This from a recent list in the NYTimes T Magazine recommended by Dean Wareham, a singer and guitarist who recently moved to LA after many moons in Brooklyn! (Maybe that’s a trend, seeing as my brother just did the same…Or one more example and we’ve got a “trend”…)

 

Hollywood Farmers Market
“We have an avocado tree in our backyard, but the squirrels get to them before we do. This is one of the only places we can walk to, and we go every Sunday. The produce is amazing. I buy the fruits, Britta buys the vegetables.”
Ivar Avenue and Selma Avenue between Hollywood Boulevard and Sunset Boulevard; Sundays, 8 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Chichen Itza restaurant
“This place is in a kind of cheap mall downtown. Jonathan Gold wrote about it. It’s Yucatan cuisine. I don’t know how it’s different from other Mexican food — I’m not expert enough. But it’s great.”
3655 South Grand Avenue; chichenitzarestaurant.com.

Vermont Canyon Tennis Courts
“It is much easier to exercise out here. And right over here in Griffith Park, it costs five dollars an hour to play tennis, whereas in New York, you’ve got to get a season pass, and it’s a luxury. I go to the courts up Vermont, right by the little golf course. I took my son there three times a week last summer.”
2715 Vermont Canyon Road; laparks.org.

Books on L.A.
“When I got here, the first thing my friend gave me was Reyner Banham’s famous and controversial book, ‘Los Angeles: The Architecture of Four Ecologies.’ I also loved ‘City of Nets,’ by Otto Friedrich. It’s a great look at Hollywood in the ’40s, with a focus on Europeans like Thomas Mann and Stravinsky. Bertolt Brecht lived up Argyle Avenue, right over here. He was the most famous playwright in the world, but he was in Hollywood writing out of his native language, and he was broke.”

Largo at the Coronet
“‘City of Nets’ was recommended to me by Flanny, the owner at Largo, where we’ve played. In fact, he sells copies at the concession stand there. He likes it because his new location (in the old Coronet Theater) is mentioned in the book; it is where Brecht and Charles Laughton staged ‘Life of Galileo.’ Brecht was my hero at age 17, and to perform on the very same stage was cool.”
366 North La Cienega Boulevard; largo-la.com.

Cinefamily
“This is an old silent movie theater. They show movies that don’t get a wide release. I went and saw ‘Once Upon a Time in America,’ the Sergio Leone three-hour epic. And a lot of comedy stuff, too. We’ve played there, and Britta did a reading there once.”
611 North Fairfax Avenue; cinefamily.org.

Acting

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Joys of the Burbank Airport

Terminal building at Bob Hope Airport

A week ago we were wending our way home from green and sunny Los Angeles (now we’ve got snow again in Iowa grrrr) and appreciating the ease of traveling through the Burbank “Bob Hope” Airport. It cost considerably more to fly home from Burbank rather than LAX but man was it worth it – considering that we had a 3 p.m. flight (rather than the early morning flights available from LAX) and the airport is about 10 minutes from my brother’s house in Burbank. It’s a surprisingly tiny, pokey place – reminds me of Des Moines’ airport before it got bigger and busier. (Oddly our plane from Burbank to Denver was much smaller than the plane from Denver to Des Moines. )

One other tip: it pays to ask when you’re dealing with a tight connection in Denver. We chanced a 35-40 minute connection between United flights in Denver and even though our flight left almost on time from Burbank (10 minutes late technically), making our connecting flight was touch-and-go. The connecting flight was in the same Terminal B but about 60 gates away. I ended up asking an airport employee standing behind a desk with a disabled sign on it how long it would take to get to that far-away gate and without batting an eyelash, he offered to drive us in his cart – which saved the day. We got to the gate as people were boarding. (He did accept a tip – we weren’t sure of the protocol.)

Boarding from Terminal B

 

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