Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Coronado Island, Balboa Park, Blue Water SeAfood and Gelato velo: viva la San Diego

hotel del coronado

hotel del coronado

balboa park museums

balboa park museums

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Fun day. And what a difference a good walking tour can make! I visited The famous Victorian resort Hotel del Coronado last time I was in San Diego some 30 years ago but didn’t remember much except that it was charming. This time I decided to take a 90 minute walking tour of the area around the Hotel, led by a woman in her 60s who has lived on the Island (or isthmus) for decades. She was terrific. (Coronadowalkingtour.com) Granted she has a lot of good material to work with but her presentation was great too. She was enthusiastic but also funny and offered lots of interesting insights.

We started at the pretty Glorietta Bay Inn, across the street from the hotel, which turned out to be the former home of John Spreckels, a sugar magnate who bought up just about everything on the island including the hotel by the turn of the century. Gorgeous place with a lot of original elements still in place (light fixtures, marble kitchen, brass and marble staircase.) The tour went around (not in) the hotel and then over a few of the huge mansions on Ocean Blvd. and to a pretty side street, Loma Avenue.
I had breakfast at the counter of Clayton’s, a popular unpretentious coffee shop on the main drag, Orange Avenue, and picked up some takeout fare from the Bayside Market, an excellent store on the bay side of the island that our guide Jerry steered us too.

It was a surprisingly quick drive to North Park and South Park, both neighborhoods with lots of interesting independent shops and galleries and restaurants, plus small well tended or revived craftsman bungalows. It’s the neighborhood I could see myself living in…Did a quick tour of Balboa Park and was particularly impressed with the lovely Spanish style buildings housing the various art museums. must remember to visit the international art museum next time. it looked really interesting. (Also next time, I will pay the $5 and hike the trail at Cabrillo national monument!)

For dinner we had excellent fish tacos, grilled Ahi tuna and lobster bisque at the Blue Water Grill on India street (a two block restaurant row with ethnic places but none Indian.) It’s a casual order-at-the-counter place. Nothing fancy but fresh fish and cheerful service.  Gelato Vero happened to be a block away. Oh happy day!

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Filed under California, San Diego

Exploring in and around San Diego: Leucadia, la Jolla, Ocean beach, carnitas snack shack

I drove myself silly today, heading north to La Jolla for breakfast at The Cottage (soy chorizo with scrambled eggs) then north to Leucadia where I found Beacon’s Beach, a near empty stretch of beach except for several surfers. perfect for a stroll once you wind Your way down a packed sand trail Carved  into the high sandy bluff. The bluff looked like

Sunset Ocean Beach Pier

Sunset Ocean Beach Pier

a giant version of a kids dripped sand castle and residents clearly were trying to shore up the bluff in spots. I had iced coffee at the charmingly funky Pannikin cafe on 101 Highway, then followed the scenic highway signs as often as I could find

Military cemetery, Point Lomo

Military cemetery, Point Lomo

them, all the way down to the Cabrillo National Monument, which offers a stunning view of the city. I was too cheap to pay the $5 fee to go to the end of the monument but I did linger nearby at a mesmerizing military graveyard, rows and rows of white tombstones on a bright green grassy slope leading down to the ocean.

I ended up at somewhat seedy Ocean Beach near sunset so I parked the car and walked down the very long concrete pier along with others. Tonight we had a terrific meal at the carnitas snack shack, which seems to be on everyone’s list of where to eat. It’s a little boxy building with a window where a very friendly guy took our order which was delivered to our table in the open air dining courtyard

pannekin coffee house, Leucadia

pannekin coffee house, Leucadia

behind the shack. The braised Duroc pork belly was a stand out!

 

 

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Filed under California, San Diego

Rainy drive to San Diego with stop in Rancho Santa Fe and Solana Beach

Oddly, the last time I drove from LA to San Diego, about 30 years ago, it was also raining as it was today. But California needs the rain (and hey, California rain bests Iowa deep freeze.) The drive was easy from Burbank to SD on Highway 5, with a detour to drive along historic 101 highway south from Oceanside to del Mar. I stopped in Rancho Sante Fe, an elegant area east of the coast at a spectacular private home filled with contemporary art where the owners were hosting a soirée. In Solana Beach I stopped to catch the last minutes of the Farmers Market in the design district (raspberries! Satsumas!) and caught a good sale at a nearby boutique.

Next stop the Marriott Marquis & Marina where I am in a room high over the water. The sun is coming out. Must get crackin.

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Filed under California, San Diego

rainy day in LA : Daichan Japanese Restaurant, Theodore Payne Foundation

Theodore Payne foundation

Theodore Payne foundation

Lucy eats Japanese food

Lucy eats Japanese food

Rainy damp day here so we hibernated a bit then went out on the drizzle to so terrific Japanese restaurant in a nondescript Studio City strip center called Daichan which was packed with people warming up with miso soup and udon noodles with tempura. I had an excellent bowl of mixed poki, the Hawaiian raw fish dish I feel for on the Big Island. Other highlights were the seaweed wrapped quick fried tofu which was soft and fresh inside, lightly crispy on the outside with the slightly salty flavor of the seaweed.

Later Heather and I drove to Sunland, a suddenly rural area with horse ranches and old farmhouses and a nonprofit called Theodore Payne Foundation dedicated to native vegetation, perfect for the drought resistant front garden H is designing, after tearing up a suffering grass lawn.

 

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Filed under California, Los Angeles

Los Feliz walk, Fred’s 62, Nickelodeon, and Portos…Los Angeles

Very Full day. We followed a walk in the excellent “Walking L.A.” Guide by Erin Mahoney through the Los Feliz neighborhood, walking up narrow winding roads near Griffith Park Observatory, lined with spectacular homes, culls of lush landscaping, amazing on-high views of downtown, with the occasional unfriendly dog, black Bentley, and signs warning of “armed security patrols.” A highlight is the amazing FLWright Ennis–Brown House. We also walked down and up several near-hidden pedestrian walkways that reminded us a bit of the hidden staircases between villages on the Amalfi coast.

We walked south on Vermont to a few interesting shops and restaurants south of Franklin, landing at Fred’s 66, a hipster diner, as advertised, with interesting salads, good burgers and sandwiches and breakfast. we drove awhile more around Laurel Canyon, marveling at yet another pocket of wealth, this one a different vibe than Los Feliz, more

Enjoying FLWright house in Los Feliz neighborhood of LA

Enjoying FLWright house in Los Feliz neighborhood of LA

rock star than studio exec neighborhood.

Next stop a visit to Nickelodeon headquarters in Burbank where my brother works on a new show Loud House (looked for it in about a year!) Cool place and glad my talented brother landed there. last stop a terrific Cuban bakery Portos, where the woman behind the counter didn’t just give us little samples but whole pastries to try. Delicious and it worked. we bought a bunch. We have loved our visit and slowly getting reacquainted with LA.

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LA Farmers Market for tacos, falafel, Brazilian BBQ, crepes and more

Loteria At the LA Farmers marketmakes some mean tacos, among our favs the shrimp and pork, also excellent black beans. My niece had a delicious Nutella crepe at a nearby stall and the Moishe’s falafel. The ambiance alone is great – an old fashioned food hall of sorts (the “farmers market” moniker is a bit misleading) with a series of little stalls around since the 1930s, each with a different ethnic or regional offering. The Brazilian BBQ had a strong following, as did the falafel place. Their is also a best French gourmet food and cooking ware store. All this is surrounded by a very upscale open air mall, sort of Disneyland-esque make believe world with fancy brand mpname outposts like anthropologie and top shop.

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Filed under Los Angeles, Uncategorized

United gets us to LAX via competitor!

we didn’t realize United had fixed us up with an alternative flight to LA on a competing airline until we got to the airport in Des Moines. These airline mergers are hard to keep straight. But United merged with Continental and American with USAIR. We were supposed to fly United to Denver to LA but our flight was two hours late so we would miss our connection. I stayed calm and called United and soon we were flying us air to LA via Phoenix, out of frigid subzero Iowa to sunny warm LA. And here is my sweet breakfast companion in Burbank!

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Dos Rios – I agree with the Datebook Diner’s review today

I had to agree with the Des Moines Register’s  review today about Dos Rios, a restaurant serving modern (aka Rick Bayles- style) Mexican fare on Court Avenue in Des Moines. I hadn’t been there in ages, after a few mediocre overpriced meals but was presently surprised after a recent lunch there (suggested by my friend Anne.) The taco special was good value and good food – I had the pork and steak tacos plus a hearty bowl of spicy tortilla soup with visible bits of chicken (and tortilla strips).

 

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Filed under Chicago, Des Moines, DINING

What our out-of-town guests liked in Des Moines/central Iowa

We had 19 out-of-town guest for Thanksgiving this year (from L.A., Tucson, Chicago, suburban Chicago, Springfield, suburban Detroit, Brooklyn and Washington D.C.) and enjoyed showing them around the new improved Des Moines. Among their favorites:

– La Mie restaurant for lunch

– East Village for shopping – including Raygun, Porch Light, Kitchen Collage, Gong Fu, Eden

– Winterset – lunch at Northside Cafe (complete with a visit from Santa, who inadvertently spooked our 2 1/2-year-old niece), shopping at the Ben Franklin on Shop Small Saturday (as fate would have it), a visit to Roseman Bridge.

– Star Bar for lunch

– Django for dinner

– Raccoon River Brewery for afternoon billards and drinks

– Confluence Brewery, hand-crafted beer served in the taproom and in refillable half-gallon bottles (aka growlers.)

– The Des Moines Art Center’s Halston-Warhol show.

– The downtown Pappajohn Sculpture Park (although it was too nippy when we visited to walk around.)

– Gateway Market for cheese and bread shopping.

– The state historical museum (good places for a little girl to run around…and I need to revisit the Hollywood in the Heartland exhibit)

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Great meal and warmer than expected at Le Jardin in Des Moines

 

To be honest, I wasn’t sure the new location of Le Jardin in beaver dale would be a good place for dinner on an unseasonably cold November eve. It remember the space with full window walls and high ceilings as drafty when it was Flarah’s. But we were pleasantly surprised. Not only was the food terrific but the space was warmer temperature and ambiance-wise than expected, with help from a cool wall mural by a local artist known for his graffiti as I recall. To be honest, when the door opened, the cold wind did blow in but otherwise, we warmed up. it also helped that we had a rear table away from the entrance.

The food was delicious. I had lamb goulash, a surprisingly light but flavorful dish that was served in a shallow bowl, tender pieces of lamb, carrots, and the occasional green olive that offered a little salty jolt, in a light broth/sauce atop little doughy pasta (spaetzle) with a fried egg on top. Perfect meal for a cold night. Also had a very fresh salad with mesclun, cranberries, goat cheese, candied nuts, a light vinaigrette, perfectly dressed. We will be back!

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING