Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Bard college, Red Hook, Tivoli, Germantown–Rambles in and around Dutchess County

Salt point scene

Salt point scene

 


Sadly, I am a little early for the mutsu Apple crop here (due the first week of October) but I did get some good honeycrisps at a roadside stand near where I am staying Salt Point. And we have had gorgeous weather – 70s and sunny with a slight breeze.

imageWe drove past the frank Gehry-designed theatre on The Bard College campus, which looked like his building on the U of Minnesota campus.Then we drove through the nearby towns of Red Hook and Tivoli, which were sleepier than usual because, we learned, places tend to close on Wednesday. We got sandwiches at Otto’s, an old timey grocery store in Germantown where we ordered at the meat counter.

Otto's in Germantown

Otto’s in Germantown

Now sitting on the slate patio with my friends of almost 40 years, enjoying the late afternoon at this beautiful place on Allen Road that I’ve been visiting for, um, 31 years. (Some of which is soon to be available via Airbnb…)

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The new Whitney Museum — NYC

On a Whitney terrace

On a Whitney terrace with One World Trade Center in the distance

Finally made it to the new location of the Whitney Museum and loved everything about it – the architecture  (Renzo Piano building with great open terraces on the upper floors with dazzling views of the Hudson River, the downtown skyscrapers and the High Line right below the museum), the neighborhood (bustling art and commerce of Chelsea and the meat packing district with designer shops and old crumbling brick streets) and of course the art. The Whitney is big on figurative contemporary art, which happens to be among my favorite.

Inside the Whitney

Inside the Whitney

We saw a really interesting retrospective of photographer Danny Lyons work and thoroughly enjoyed the 7th floor exhibit from the museums’ portrait collection. We ran out of time so couldn’t see the 6th floor of portraits (which oddly wasn’t open because they were rehanging some work). NExt trip! Also enjoyed a light lunch in the top floor cafe, a Danny Meyer restaurant.

Robert Bechtle, 61' Pontiac, 1968-69 oil on canvas

Robert Bechtle, 61′ Pontiac, 1968-69 oil on canvas

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Good bagels in Des Moines area!

I confess: I’m a bagel snob. But the new  5 Borough Bagels in Clive is the real deal (“New York-style” although I’ve never seen a “French Toast” bagel in NYC. It’s not bad.)

Just hoping Iowans appreciate and keep these young bagel entrepreneurs in business! They even offer onion bialys, which are heavier than I’m used to but delicious.

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING

Unexpected Ride along the Wapsi-Great Western Line Trail  – Northeast Iowa

imageThe weather didn’t cooperate on Labor Day — it rained in the morning in Lanesboro – so we scrapped our original plan to ride a third leg of the Root River Trail (from Lanesboro to Fountain , or another option – Lanesboro to Preston or Harmony) and drove south to sunnier skies and another bike trail in Iowa. We found both – sort of (there was sun but also thunder, lightening and clouds in the distance that fortunately didn’t result in rain) – in Riceville, Ia, where we hopped on the very pleasant Wapsi-Great Western Line Trail, riding through forested corridors lining corn fields and then through open cornfields, past Amish farms. There was scenery to delight both me as a Michigan native (a rare, for Iowa, strand of Birch trees) and Dirck, as a native Kansan (prairie, with yellow and purple flowers.)

prairie grass!

prairie grass!

To do a loop, we did have to ride on a country road but noticed that some Amish cyclists we passed were taking the same approach as us – riding in the oncoming traffic lane so we could see the rare car coming our way and get out of the way. It seemed safer than having the traffic to our back, even if it may have taken the oncoming driver by surprise.

Birch trees!

Birch trees!

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Iowa

Airbnb/Java Johns/Oneota Coop in Decorah

We made a quick stop in Decorah during our Lanesboro, MN trip. Not long enough unfortunately to visit the Agora Arts gallery. BUt we did find a good Airbnb just south of town that was very easy Ina no out, clean and affordable $56. And we found one coffee house (among several) open on Sunday morning — thank you Java John’s. The Oneota Co-op also was open at 10 am so we lingered long enough to get picnic supplies there.

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Root River Trail, Pedal Pusher Cafe in Lanesboro, MN  Burdy’s Cafe nearby and Decorah, IA (Topping Goliath)

Peterson, MN

WE finally made it to southeast Minnesota to ride our bikes along the much-touted Root River Trail and it was as lovely (and easy to ride) as advertised– at least the 15 mile stretch from Lanesboro east through the tiny town of Whalan (with its famous pie shop) and the slightly less tiny town of Peterson, where we had excellent pie at Burdy’s Cafe, an unassuming little place with cheerful teenage girls as our servers. The trail was largely flat but not dull. It follows the wide,often fast moving river for the most part, through woods and fields, past picture perfect old farmsteads, tidy towns and wooded stone bluffs.  We also lucked out with the weather, low 70s, sun but cloud cover.

Lanesboro’s main drag was packed with people, cars and bikes but not awful. It’s lined with wellkept old brick storefronts. It’s not as well heeled as, say, Stockholm, Wisconsin or ticky tacky as, say, places I won’t mention.It has a nice local art gallery, a popular ice cream shop and the Pedal Pusher’s cafe, which has a hearty Minnesota vibe (the Norwegian meatballs were already sold out when we arrived at 6 pm). We picnicked for lunch in the city park, overlooking a little pond where people were fishing and families pitched tents. We particularly appreciated the public bathrooms there, at the library, with pay showers (who knew?), where we changed into our biking gear.

TOnight we are 45 miles south in Decorah, one of our favorite places in Iowa, staying at a pleasant and affordable Airbnb ($53) on a rural highway outside town. We stopped in town for ice cream and beer at Topping Goliath, an award winning local brewery. or so Dirck tells me.

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Iowa, Minnesota

DIA, Chartreuse, exploring Detroit!

We began the morning with the world’s best bagels (sorry NYC)…Detroit bagels, which are smaller and chewier than New York’s,and the onion bagel has the onion bits baked mixed into the batter, not burnt bits on the outside. The egg bagels are superb too.  But irony of  ironies, the bagel store on Woodward Near Ferndale has the unfortunate name, New York Bagels.

We took Noah for his first viewing of the famous Diego Rivera mural at the Detroit Institute of Art (DIA), which was even better than I remembered from years ago. A knowledgeable docent was conveniently stationed in the courtyard and provided all kinds of interesting information, including where to find Diego himself among the workers and the comic book character Dick Tracy. We also saw a really fun photography show on American Road trips.

Dinner was at Chartreuse, a charming place on Woodward near the DIA, with a rustic earthy decor (and lots of chartreuse) and inventive food, using fresh produce and local products. We had delicious ribs (with” togarashi, soy mirin glaze, raw potato and seaweed salad”) and pork (Niman ranch tenderloin, clover fed pork shoulder, salsa verde, cheddar jalapeño grits, black beans, radish), good appetizers and dessert. And I bumped into my high school choral director who I hadn’t seen in years. Another treat!

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Filed under Detroit, Michigan

Back to Royal Oak – Leo’s (Schoop’s in Michigan city)

Well at least we got Leo’s done right away. (Below) My son and dad are fans, especially of the Coney Island. En route to Detroit from Chicago we stopped for a good breakfast at schoopp’s  (way below) imagein Michigan City Indiana, off I 94. (We went there years ago and have never been clear on the right exit.)image

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Hoq Restaurant in DSM not so Hot

I’m beginning to sound like the town sourpuss but yet another meh meal at one of Des Moines’ up-and-coming (or maybe not) restaurant. Hoq promises farm-to-table ingredients which this time of year apparently means that almost everything was made with asparagus, which fortunately is a vegetable we like but not in excess. My major complaint is that the food is overpriced. I had two tiny lambchops with asparagus and little cubes of potatoes for $36 (good flavor but grassfed so tough and not cooked medium rare as requested – one of mine was fine, the other well-done; one of our companions got two very rare chops and complained sufficiently to get his order knocked off the bill). D’s steak was a better entree – a big hunk of meat also served with asparagus (this time bacon-wrapped) and what looked like the same potato cubes that came with the lamb. N’s salmon looked good and she had no complaints. I think though there’s a reason the place was mostly empty on a Friday night. The food should be exceptional for the prices charged and it wasn’t.

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING

Great decor – meh food…Des Moines

I hope this isn’t a trend but yet again, we’ve gone to a new restaurant in Des Moines hopeful and left disappointed. Great decor in a cool old building downtown. Very unexceptional food. We probably won’t return. In the case of last night, we thought +39, an Italian restaurant in a beautifully renovated old building across from the sculpture garden would be interesting contemporary Italian  – which sadly we haven’t found in Des Moines to date – because the owner is from Italy and allegedly had a restaurant in Sardinia (as well as Ames, Ia.) But nothing we had was interesting or even particularly good – and in many cases it wasn’t even hot (cold pizza, cold pasta, even cold cappuccino) which was disappointing on a surprisingly wet cold May evening.  The raspberry gelato was indeed cold but it had the texture of ice cream. Good ice cream but not gelato.  This is the third restaurant we’ve been to lately in downtown Des Moines that looked great but tasted bland. I’d rather have bland decor and great food. Or better yet – great decor and food!

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING