Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Hoq Restaurant in DSM not so Hot

I’m beginning to sound like the town sourpuss but yet another meh meal at one of Des Moines’ up-and-coming (or maybe not) restaurant. Hoq promises farm-to-table ingredients which this time of year apparently means that almost everything was made with asparagus, which fortunately is a vegetable we like but not in excess. My major complaint is that the food is overpriced. I had two tiny lambchops with asparagus and little cubes of potatoes for $36 (good flavor but grassfed so tough and not cooked medium rare as requested – one of mine was fine, the other well-done; one of our companions got two very rare chops and complained sufficiently to get his order knocked off the bill). D’s steak was a better entree – a big hunk of meat also served with asparagus (this time bacon-wrapped) and what looked like the same potato cubes that came with the lamb. N’s salmon looked good and she had no complaints. I think though there’s a reason the place was mostly empty on a Friday night. The food should be exceptional for the prices charged and it wasn’t.

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING

Great decor – meh food…Des Moines

I hope this isn’t a trend but yet again, we’ve gone to a new restaurant in Des Moines hopeful and left disappointed. Great decor in a cool old building downtown. Very unexceptional food. We probably won’t return. In the case of last night, we thought +39, an Italian restaurant in a beautifully renovated old building across from the sculpture garden would be interesting contemporary Italian  – which sadly we haven’t found in Des Moines to date – because the owner is from Italy and allegedly had a restaurant in Sardinia (as well as Ames, Ia.) But nothing we had was interesting or even particularly good – and in many cases it wasn’t even hot (cold pizza, cold pasta, even cold cappuccino) which was disappointing on a surprisingly wet cold May evening.  The raspberry gelato was indeed cold but it had the texture of ice cream. Good ice cream but not gelato.  This is the third restaurant we’ve been to lately in downtown Des Moines that looked great but tasted bland. I’d rather have bland decor and great food. Or better yet – great decor and food!

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Des Moines – East Village’s Iowa Tap Room and more Cedar Rapids restaurants

iowataproomWe continue to be amazed and appreciative of the new restaurants and bars opening up in Des Moines, especially along our favorite bike route through the ever-growing East Village. Yesterday we stopped at the Iowa Tap Room which opened about two months ago in what would have been an anonymous building in a remote location just a few years ago.  It’s a beer drinkers mecca with a giant Sukup metal grain bin in the center of the room’s wood, brick and metal furnishings that sprouts taps from about a 100 Iowa beers and ciders.  There were plenty of tables (it’s got a roomy dance-hall feel) but we enjoyed sitting at the bar in from of the metal grain bin, sampling some Back Pocket Gold Coin (from Coralville,Ia) for dirck and Wilson Orchard Cider (from Iowa City). The onion rings were quite good – the rest of the menu didn’t particularly interest us, lots of fancy burgers, sandwiches, heavy stuff. But we’ll definitely visit again!

The DSM Register followed in our footsteps from last weekend, visiting Cedar Rapids restaurants  (http://www.desmoinesregister.com/story/entertainment/dining/2016/04/20/cedar-rapids-restaurants-dining-tour/82907664/) and featuring two of the ones we visited – Cobble Hill and NewBo Market. Here are a few other places they mentioned.

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING, Iowa

Exploring in and around Cedar Rapids: NewBo market, Cobble Hill restaurant, Anamosa, Stone city

cedarapidspix3I’ve been curious for awhile to visit the NewBo market area of Cedar Rapids and so we finally did yesterday. I would have to say that it’s not quite there yet but that’s fine – Des Moines’ East Village wasn’t quite there for several years and then suddenly it is is very much there. The Market – inside a cavernous metal building has food stalls and a few food-related or home-stuffs stores, none that knocked my socks off (but then D. kind of ruined it by reminding me of the truly awesome market we went to in Lisbon – yes, Lisbon, Portugal, last fall…) D.  had some okay mexican food. I had okay Korean dumplings. We walkeded past some of the cool old rehabbed buildings near the market in NewBo (New Bohemia) – not much there yet. There’s several restaurants (we’d already eaten) and a few shops (DSM’s Raygun just opened, which should be  a draw – except for people in Des Moines and Iowa City who already have their own; there’s a small well-cultivated book store.) There was an antique shop (of sorts) closed on Saturdays at 3 p.m. (Really??)cedarrapidspix1

We wandered over to the neighboring Czech Village – which is sort of like DSM’s Valley Junction area with antique and junk shops, plus a famous old Czech bakery. Didn’t find that much of interest.

We did have a very good meal at Cobble Hill, in an old brick storefront downtown. It’s named after a Brooklyn neighborhood (which my brother used to live in) and did seem to pull off the Brooklyn hip-rustic-make/it/yourself vibe, combined with friendly unpretentious Midwestern service and fresh Midwestern meat and veg used to produce sophisticated one-of-a-kind entrees that usually worked. The chef hails from a restaurant, the Lincoln Cafe, now closed, that we used to enjoy in Mount Vernon, Ia and was recently a Jame Beard semifinalist. My lamb was delicious – served with a salad that had so many notes, favors, ingredients I can’t begin to pull them all apart. Eating it was a bit like a dissection – is that broccoli? this is a weird little shrimp? is this green soft thing the spietzle? The dessert was truly bizarre – an egg-shaped scoop of what we believe was guava sorbet. Deliciously sour. Then a strange pale triangle take-off on an ice cream dilly bar, but with white chocolate outside and an inside that didn’t quite work – it wasn’t quite ice cream, odd consistency and not much flavor, then there were crunchy bits scattered around the plate that looked and tasted like fancy grapenuts and little dabs of purple stuff that was also sour and tasty. On the flip side, I had a deliciously simple homemade pomegranate limeade. And a plate of house-cured meats and veg was full of interesting flavors – my favorite a duck rillette (sp?) spread that was delicious when spread on top of grilled nutty bread with a dried cherry marinated in balsamic vinegar (my best guess here..)

Anamosa prison

Anamosa prison

There still isn’t much in Stone City (where Grant Wood once painted) – except some very pretty old limestone buildings including an old “General Store” that’s now a very busy bar and restaurant. We sat on the back patio overlooking the Wapsipinicon River on a beautiful afternoon. Lots of bikers were inside the limestone-walled bar and family groups in the restaurant.   We had to stop and visit our favorite state prison/”reformatory” in Amamosa, a bizarrely beautiful old building that, as I recall, was built with the idea that beauty could help reform the worst lawbreakers. The Prison’s museum – another oddity – appears to still be in business although it was closed by the time we arrived.

And who says they don’t have a sense of humor in the small town of Ladora, Iowa: (see below)

As seen in Ladora, Iowa

As seen in Ladora, Iowa

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Where to eat when next in Detroit? Mabel Gray

The NYTimes shines a spotlight on a Detroit-area restaurant Mabel Gray. It’s located in Hazel Park, which I recall less about than Faygo, a Detroit-area pop (aka soda) from my youth that the restaurant reportedly serves. Surely they also serve Vernors!

It’s named after Alice Gray (middle name Mabel) who was known as  Diana of the Dunes – who has a compelling story (see below).

 

Alice Gray was one of the best and brightest. She was born November 25, 1881. She graduated from South Division High School where she and two of her classmates were known as “the college class”. She came to the USNO after completion of her degree in mathematics at the University of Chicago…. She graduated Phi Beta Kappa in 1903 receiving honorable mentions for excellence in astronomy, mathematics, Latin, and Greek… If the monotony of computing was difficult for other bright women, it must have been especially difficult on Alice Gray, she was to say the least, a free spirit. Not much is known of her work here at the Observatory, though she was known to have had an intense interest in astronomy and wanted to pursue her studies in tide research. … Miss Gray was known to wear her hair cut short and also worked in pants!
In 1905 she apparently left Washington for Germany to continue her studies at the Gottingen University. It was in Germany that she became interested in a “walking commune”, which was a movement that encouraged people to give up material possessions and live off the bounty of the land.
Alice Gray returned to the United States and went to work in Chicago as an editorial secretary for the Astrophysical Journal which was published by the University. Miss Grays real fame came later in her life when in 1915 at the age of 35, she gave up on civilization and became a recluse in the Lake Michigan Dunes. “In solitude when we are least alone,” a passage from Byron served as inspiration for Alice Gray when she took over an abandoned shack with little more than a jelly glass, a knife, a spoon, a blanket, and two guns. Alice reported that Lord Byron’s poem provided “my first longings to get away from the conventional world, and I never gave up the idea, although a long time passed before I could fulfill it.” The press dubbed this beautiful and well educated daughter of a Chicago physician “Diana of the Dunes” perhaps in reference to Diana, the goddess of the moon and Miss Grays habit of moonlit skinny-dipping in Lake Michigan.
Alice Gray survived in her ramshackle shack by building driftwood boxes and selling them to buy bread and salt. She ate fish she caught and gathered berries and edible plants from her surroundings. She patronized the local library, and spoke in public about her interest in natural history and Dune lore. In 1916 she told a local reporter that “I wanted to live my own life a free life. The life of a salary earner in the cities is slavery, a constant fight for the means of living.”
In 1920 she met Paul Eisenblatter who went by the name of Paul Wilson, a fellow recluse, and by 1921 they were sharing a shack they called Wren’s Nest. Some accounts report that the couple were married in 1921 but others can not confirm that fact. Alice Gray Wilson never lost her free spirit, and there are several reports of her having fiery confrontations with both the press and the law including one in which she received a fractured skull.
Civilization infringed on the couples privacy and reporters hounded her relentlessly even her manuscripts were taken from their shack. Eventually “Diana of the Dunes” and the “Giant of the Dunes” as Mr. Wilson became to be known because of his towering six foot five inch height, made plans to escape to Texas via raft. These plans were never realized because Mrs. Alice Gray Wilson died of uremic poisoning after many years of kidney trouble on February 8, 1925 at the age of 43. Mrs. Wilson’s last request to be cremated and have her ashes scattered over the dunes was denied possibly because her family would not allow it and Mr. Wilson did not have the money to fulfill her wish. Reporters continued to plague the couple even after her death when the final assault by reporters at Mrs. Wilson’s funeral caused Mr. Wilson to pull out a gun and threaten to kill himself as well as a reporter and Chester Dunn, a nephew of Mrs. Wilson. Nobody was hurt, but Wilson was jailed and Alice Gray Wilson was buried in Oakhill cemetery near Gary Indiana.

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Filed under Detroit, DINING

Travel tip for rides in Manhattan and Chicago: VIA

Just when I’ve gotten used to Uber (sort of) my friend Anne raves about her “new favorite NYC find: the VIA app ”  More below:

It’s cheaper than Uber and cabs. I tried it today to get from Upper East side to Penn Station. $3.25. No lie. Talking with the driver who says he used to drive for Uber and switched to Via because the company is better to its drivers. Still, he works really long days to pay his car insurance and make enough money. I tipped him even though you’re not really supposed to because he went out of his way to get me to the right entrance. Quite a contrast to the $70 cab ride from JFK to Manhattan last night! Right now, Via is only in Manhattan and central Chicago.

Here’s a NYTimes story on it: www.nytimes.com/2015/03/15/nyregion/like-taking-a-luxury-bus-via-a-ride-share-app-offers-manhattan-trips.html

 

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Testimonials from friends using takebetsywith you in Rome and LA: love it!!

At the Farmers market in LA with my sweet niece Lucy 2015

At the Farmers market in LA with my sweet niece Lucy 2015

Always love when friends report that they’re using tips from this blog while they’re on their trip. That’s why I bother to write this darned thing!

Here’s the latest reports:

  • Yesterday a postcard from L.A. arrived from my pal Polly in Michigan, who wrote “We took Betsy with us and had a tasty lunch at the farmer’s market.”(Click here for details on the LA Farmers Market)
  • Today, a Facebook message from Rome arrived from my Iowa pal Anne: “Just bought a purse and a belt at ibiz. However did you find this place? Thanks for telling me about it!” (Click here for Ibiz details!)
  • With my Ibiz shopping bag, Roma 2014

    With my Ibiz shopping bag, Roma 2014

    14.

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Filed under Italy, Los Angeles

My second uber ride (in LA..and A OK)

  My second uber ride – the first was about a year ago in DC – went well and seemed well worth the money. iT cost $44 to go from Burbank to the airport and took about an hour and 10 minutes, as we took alternative routes to avoid traffic on the 405. (I left at 3 pm and arrived at about 4:10 pm, an hour and 10 minutes before my flight.

tHe car was spotless and pleasant. my driver was a nice middle aged Filipino man whose other job is working as a caregiver for four disabled people who live in a group home. he had a hardworking immigrant striver’s tale that would put the leading republican presidential candidate to shame. pAst jobs included working as a baker in Saudi Arabia and then as a baker on a cruise ship operating out of Puerto Rico. He has three grown kids and his daughter has been turned down twice recently for a tourist visa to visit him, so he tries to go Back when he can but it’s expensive and it doesn’t sound like he has much vacation time or disposable income. He managed to buy a house somewhere on the outskirts of LA for $85,ooo that he thinks may fetch $110,000 some day. And all this on a $13 an hour salary plus his uber job. And these are the people we want to keep out of our country? Really? 

noW on a plane flying to Tucson to see my dad after a great visit with my brother and his family.

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Filed under California, Los Angeles

Daisy Mint Thai, cherry froyo, south Pasadena

image imageAnother day, another place to explore. This time Pasadena, which I last visited in sabout 1986. lUcy, mike, Dirck and I met scott tuft for Sunday lunch at Daisy Mint, a very good Thai restaurant and then went to Cherry, for frozen yoghurt.

 

We walked around the expensive shops in the pretty downtown, drove past some gorgeous Spanish style mansions and around the pretty little bungalows and interesting indie shops of south Pasadena (a place I could almost seeing us living in) and then thru the grentrifiying highland park back to Burbank (where we started the day with a steep hike up the hills for a,spectacular view from on high of the city.

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Filed under California, Los Angeles, Uncategorized

gRand central market, the last bookstore, cliftons cafeteria — downtown LA

 I am still not convinced that in a place as sunny, green and vibrantly landscaped as LA, with mountains and the ocean and beaches, it would be wise to live in the faded grandeur of downtown LA.

 bUt it does have its hipster outposts and it was fun to visit them today. First stop the jam packed Grand central Mrket where we had excellent falafel and corned beef sandwiches and of course overpriced espresso in a cavernous old warehouse.

 fRom there we walked past old facades and way too many homeless people along sidewalks with a faint smell of pee to another old cavernous building that houses “the last bookstore” another new hipster hotspot, packed with used and new books and people (mostly used, not new). The craziest place of all was Clifton’s cafeteria, a revived cafeteria style restaurant and bar and handout with three or four meandering floors and crazy western decor, a mock 3 story sequoia, a huge stuffed buffalo encased in glass, and old fashioned selection of cafeteria fare from Tuna salad in a plastic cup to  German sweet chocolate cake. It was a good place to drop,for a bit and sit in stand oversized chairs made of overly shellacked tree bark.

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Filed under California, Los Angeles, Uncategorized