Category Archives: New York City

PJ Bernstein’s, Pomodoro Rossi, new Q subway, gotham Hall, Central Synagogue– NYC

We love NYC but hope to get home to Des Moines tonight on this dreary rainy day. Our flight is already delayed so we aren’t sure we will make our connection in St. Louis. Other than that, we had a great time. We were surprised to enjoy our two visits to Central Synagogue so much. It turned out to be a spectacular Sephardic temple on 55th and Lexington, run by a smart charismatic group of women rabbis and cantors who we’re warm, friendly, and sing beautifully. The lead rabbi was also Asian. Another surprise.  The party was held at Gotham Hall, an imposing former bank (I’m told) on 36th and Broadway and 6th Avenue, near the original Macy’s. It has a huge domed ceiling below which some 300 or so of us ate, danced and partied until after midnight.

Last night we had good Italian food at Pomorodo Rossi, a neighborhood place on Columbus and 71st or so, can conveniently located near my relatives apart. Good pasta with seafood and a light red sauce, grilled artichoke and an outdoor table where we had a rare and wonderful dinner with our dear friends Myra and mike who won the good friend award for driving in from Connecticut.

Today, we met my brother at The Whitney Museum, our favorite place to hang out on a rainy Monday. This time we saw the Biennial exhibit which had some challenging stuff, as expected. Lunch was lobster bisque and a shared crab cake sandwich at Lobster Place in Chelsea Market.

On the east side, we had corned beef and breakfast at PJ Bernsteins on 3rd, morning pastries on Lexington at Corrado Bakery and coffee served by Aussies at Heavenly Rest Stop at 91st and Fifth, in an alcove of a fancy church by the same name.

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Gansevoort Market, new subway station at northern end of The High Line, Bryant Park holiday fair, subterranean Japanese restaurant

Another cherished post-Thanksgiving adventure with  Myra during which two old friends from college catch up while wandering around a great American city, noshing, window-shopping, people-watching, architecture-admiring, restaurant-searching, laughing, lamenting, reminiscing, dreaming and occasionally searching for a decent public bathroom (Penn Station had to do this time). Among the highlights (beyond the great company):

Gansevoort Market, a “rustic industrial” food court on 14th street, small, manageable, calm, excellent poke at Gotham Pike.

The High Line, which never disappoints, especially on a beautiful afternoon. There are always new art installations when I return, even after just a few months. And more work has been completed since my last visit in September on the retro-looking building with wide oval windows designed by the late Zaha Hadid. This time we found the attractive, European-feeling  new 34 St-Hudson Yards 7 Subway Station, with its cool mosaic tile domed ceiling underground. (Opened in 2015, the station is the first new one in NY in 26 years.)

– The crafts at the holiday fair at Bryant Park were generally less impressive than those at the holiday fair at Grand Central Station, but what a lovely scene with the pretty ice skating rink, holiday lights and wreath-festooned stone lions at the foot of the New York Public Library.  Also appreciated the inventiveness of the food vendors including one cooking unlikely creations with matzoh. Yes matzoh.

Sakagura, a remarkably authentic Japanese restaurant (including classic interactive, water-spraying Japanese toilets) in the basement of a drab building just east of Grand Central. Who knew? Apparently a lot of people, including many people of Japanese descent. The place was packed. I almost felt like I was back in Kyoto, without the around-the-world flight. Instead, we walked down two flights of steps akin to the kind found in an aging middle school basement.

Earlier in the day, my cousin took us on a fascinating tour of the production “commissary” of Juice Press, in a cool Long Island City marketplace.

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Hyde Park diner, walk over the Hudson, train to 125th Street

Walkway over the Hudson

Walkway over the Hudson

Another day of spectacular weather in the Hudson River Valley. After another morning hike around my friend’s beautiful 39-acre spread in Dutchess County, we went for brunch at a classic old diner, the EverReady in Hyde Park (eggs with spinach and feta…my favorite dinner fare, plus delicious grilled potatoes with onions, not your everyday hash browns, and fresh squeezed orange juice.)

I was first introduced to East Coast diners by my college friends, who would take me to their hometown favorites in Forest Hills and Long Island.  And then there is our favorite stop on the way to Ithaca from NYC or Connecticut: the great Roscoe Diner. I love the shiny metal building, the encyclopedic menu, the huge showy cakes on display and all the locals hanging out over endless cups of coffee, not to mention the patient, efficient, seen-it-all waitresses.

imageNear the train station in Poughkeepsie, we walked half way across the footbridge over the Hudson, with spectacular views of bucolic waters in the distance and industrial workaday river scenes just below us. I envied the cyclists biking past us. As promised, the almost 2 hour train ride to 125th street offered great river views most of the way and then boom, I emerged in Harlem. I didn’t have to wait long for the m60 bus to Laguardia, a rare public transportation option to the airport and a much better deal ($2.75) than the ripoff black car I am embarrassed to admit I mistook for an Uber on my arrival at Laguardia. ($71…ouch. Lesson learned. Never get in a car with an uber sign unless you’ve ordered an uber online.)

image

The bus took about an hour but the first stop, surprisingly, was terminal B where my grubby southwest gate was located. Now here I am at the St. Louis  airport with a 2.5 hour late night layover (again, a big change from my mad dash here a week ago with a 50 minute connection cut in half by delays.)

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The new Whitney Museum — NYC

On a Whitney terrace

On a Whitney terrace with One World Trade Center in the distance

Finally made it to the new location of the Whitney Museum and loved everything about it – the architecture  (Renzo Piano building with great open terraces on the upper floors with dazzling views of the Hudson River, the downtown skyscrapers and the High Line right below the museum), the neighborhood (bustling art and commerce of Chelsea and the meat packing district with designer shops and old crumbling brick streets) and of course the art. The Whitney is big on figurative contemporary art, which happens to be among my favorite.

Inside the Whitney

Inside the Whitney

We saw a really interesting retrospective of photographer Danny Lyons work and thoroughly enjoyed the 7th floor exhibit from the museums’ portrait collection. We ran out of time so couldn’t see the 6th floor of portraits (which oddly wasn’t open because they were rehanging some work). NExt trip! Also enjoyed a light lunch in the top floor cafe, a Danny Meyer restaurant.

Robert Bechtle, 61' Pontiac, 1968-69 oil on canvas

Robert Bechtle, 61′ Pontiac, 1968-69 oil on canvas

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Travel tip for rides in Manhattan and Chicago: VIA

Just when I’ve gotten used to Uber (sort of) my friend Anne raves about her “new favorite NYC find: the VIA app ”  More below:

It’s cheaper than Uber and cabs. I tried it today to get from Upper East side to Penn Station. $3.25. No lie. Talking with the driver who says he used to drive for Uber and switched to Via because the company is better to its drivers. Still, he works really long days to pay his car insurance and make enough money. I tipped him even though you’re not really supposed to because he went out of his way to get me to the right entrance. Quite a contrast to the $70 cab ride from JFK to Manhattan last night! Right now, Via is only in Manhattan and central Chicago.

Here’s a NYTimes story on it: www.nytimes.com/2015/03/15/nyregion/like-taking-a-luxury-bus-via-a-ride-share-app-offers-manhattan-trips.html

 

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A little Hawaii in NYC – Poke!

hawaii-2012-0891I first fell for Poke in – where else – Hawaii and haven’t had it since our trip there several years ago. So I was pleased to see a story this week in the NYTimes about the new Poke places popping up in Manhattan. Some of the Poke is a little too orange and creamy for my taste – k raw salmon slathered with orange midwestern salad dressing (but is actually chile aoili and quite good. spicy too.)

The kind I really fell for in Hawaii is red chunks of raw ahi tuna in a sesame oil/ salty soy sauce (the japanese version, Shoyu) with maybe some shredded carrots or seaweed or avocado.)

I first spotted it in the Big Island (see photo above!) when a hipster surfer guy staying at our bed & breakfast was eating some from a plastic takeaway carton. Had to try it – and it was delicious. Then I found it in odd places, including a little hole-in-the-wall natural foods place (Ruffage) restaurant off Waikiki Beach in Honululu; a very upscale version at the elegant Alan Wong’s (Obama’s favorite Honolulu restaurant)  and then on the side of a two-lane highway, being sold out of the back of a parked white pickup by a guy with two Styrofoam coolers full of the stuff. I lived to tell the tale (I was a little concerned about food poisoning but it was delicious.) Short of another trip to Hawaii (some day, I hope!), I’ll now look for it in NYC. – best spot according to the NYTimes is Sons of Thunder in Murray Hill.

Sons of Thunder

  • American
  • $$
  • 204 East 38th Street, Murray Hill
  • 646-863-2212

Pokéworks

  • American
  • $$
  • 63 West 37th Street, Midtown South
  • 212-575-8881

Wisefish Poké

  • American
  • $$
  • 263 West 19th Street, Chelsea
  • 212-367-7653

East Coast Poké

  • American
  • $$
  • 186 West 4th Street, West Village
  • 718-887-6902

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NYC — the ribbon, Russ and daughters (the restaurant!), grand central holiday market

imagetalk about a good day. On a sunny fall Monday, I got to spend the morning with my son, on his 24th birthday no less (we ate at the deli PJ bernsteins on 3rd avenue, near 69th, then I got to spend the rest of the day with my dear friend Myra (we had a terrific lunch at the new Russ and daughters restaurant on Orchard street, and rambled around the lower east side, NoLIta and outer soho into Greenwich village and bought ourselves “statement necklaces” at the holiday craft market in Grand Central) and at night I got to babysit my sweet 3-year-niece Lucy.

On Tuesday, more cherished Lucy time (and cherished time with her parents) then I schlepped to Chelsea to visit a friend temping at Martha Stewart Living (where I got a short tour.) Then I hopped onto a nearly deserted High Line (it was raining) and walked around Chelsea Market (where I was pleased to find a fat witch brownie store that had gift packages of brownies, perfect for a guest gift when I visited a friend for dinner a day later.) Tuesday night was dinner with a dear “fake” aunt at our usual spot Bella blu on the upper east side.( salad with grilled artichokes and parmesan; pasta with duck ragu and olives!)image

Sunday night after thanksgiving was a family outing to T he Ribbon, a welcoming place on west 72nd that is perfect for families. it was fried chicken night!

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Unexpected ticket to Broadway’s hottest musical: Hamilton

imageI had hopes but no expectations of snagging a ticket to “Hamilton” but on a rainy Wednesday, having found myself near Times Square (while visiting a friend at the Hearst building on 8th avenue) and with a free afternoon until dinner with another friend, I sauntered over to TKTS. No matinee Hamilton tickets, as expected.
Then I remembered reading about a ticket lottery at the theater on 46th where Hamilton is running. At 10:45 am a line was already forming and when I learned the slips for the lottery would be available at 11:30, with the drawing at noon for the 2 pm matinee, I decided “why not?” Very minor time commitment and it was fun talking to other people in line including a couple from the Twin Cities. By 11:30, as promised, the line was now about 300-400 people long and soon after dropping my slip in a bucket, I started making other plans for the day. With 20 tix available, and winners able to claim up to 2 tix each, It was a long shot.

Still, it was great to be in the crowd as a guy drew slips out of the bucket and shouted them out with a bullhorn. Excited winners screamed and the crowd cheered them on. After the first 20 tix ($10 front row seats) were gone, the bullhorn guy announced an unexpected treat…10 standing room tix, $40 each.

For a brief moment, I tried to imagine what it would be like to hear my name through that bullhorn. And then suddenly, I heard “Betsy” and then some variation of my last name. I was stunned. I don’t remember raising my hand (as winners are supposed to do to indicate if they want one or two tix) but the crowd pushed me forward (I was way in the back) and sure enough, there was my scrawl on one of the slips the bullhorn guy held. WOW! About 15 “winners” collected and paid for tickets and then we left to grab a quick lunch before the show. (I found a decent tuna sandwich nearby.) Must admit it was really cool to unexpectedly feel lucky. Kind of felt like Mary Tyler Moore when she throws her hat up in the air.

imageAt 1:30 I was back in line to get into the theater with regular tix holders including three women from Vermont and New Hampshire who bought their tix last May for $190 each. The standing room slots were behind the mezzanine, center aisle, each numbered and assigned by ticket. I stood next to a sweet young woman from Massachusetts who knew the Hamilton score by heart and was thrilled. We were all thrilled. Standing for 3 hours with my iffy back wasn’t a big problem. We could lean into the half wall in front of us. And we had plenty of room to dance to the hip hop score. Kind of like a classy mosh pit. We couldn’t see the upper balcony of the set unless we rushed a few feet to the aisle and bent on our knees, which was a strange way to see a show but seemed sort of right, given how I got my ticket.

I loved loved loved the show, the music ( catchy hip hop and beyond), the dancing, the story, the staging. Who knew Hamilton was so interesting? (This college history major didn’t.) Now I want to read the Hamilton bio and of course, get the Hamilton CD. I also really appreciated the Hamilton folks doing this for us little people. What fun it would be to be the bullhorn guy.

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Thanksgiving in the Hamptons

Off season in the Hamptons is my favorite season. It also helps that the weather was unseasonably glorious for late November. In the 60s and sunny and we had the beach outside my cousin’s house In Southampton almost to our selves. We walked barefoot in the sand, which wasn’t even cold to the touch (although the water was), with beachfront mansions back from the shore and seagulls touching walking ahead of us.

I found little of interest during an hour in downtown Southampton, although Paris and Nikki Hilton sauntered into the ridiculously overpriced store where we were gawking at the prices (a cute pea coat that was 50 percent off…of $1690, I kid you not.) The teens in our group were all a twitter!

Most of our meals have been cooked by my uncle’s talented chef, but we did have basic fare at the Princess Diner, between Watermill and Southampton. And some of us had hearty Italian pasta at La Parmigiana, a surprisingly unpretentious place in Southampton.

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Ebola and the High Line and me

It turns out that I was walking in NYC along the High Line and took the 1 subway line north to 108 street almost exactly 24 hours before the young doctor who is now in a hospital with Ebola. He’s also from my home state of Michigan, in another Detroit suburb near mine…grosse pointe as it turns out. It is strange how close this horrible epidemic is getting to us all and hard to know what to think. I did get a flu shot today. I hope the young doctor is okay. He sounds like an amazing person.

highlinephoto 3 (1)

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