Category Archives: Detroit

Where to eat when next in Detroit? Mabel Gray

The NYTimes shines a spotlight on a Detroit-area restaurant Mabel Gray. It’s located in Hazel Park, which I recall less about than Faygo, a Detroit-area pop (aka soda) from my youth that the restaurant reportedly serves. Surely they also serve Vernors!

It’s named after Alice Gray (middle name Mabel) who was known as  Diana of the Dunes – who has a compelling story (see below).

 

Alice Gray was one of the best and brightest. She was born November 25, 1881. She graduated from South Division High School where she and two of her classmates were known as “the college class”. She came to the USNO after completion of her degree in mathematics at the University of Chicago…. She graduated Phi Beta Kappa in 1903 receiving honorable mentions for excellence in astronomy, mathematics, Latin, and Greek… If the monotony of computing was difficult for other bright women, it must have been especially difficult on Alice Gray, she was to say the least, a free spirit. Not much is known of her work here at the Observatory, though she was known to have had an intense interest in astronomy and wanted to pursue her studies in tide research. … Miss Gray was known to wear her hair cut short and also worked in pants!
In 1905 she apparently left Washington for Germany to continue her studies at the Gottingen University. It was in Germany that she became interested in a “walking commune”, which was a movement that encouraged people to give up material possessions and live off the bounty of the land.
Alice Gray returned to the United States and went to work in Chicago as an editorial secretary for the Astrophysical Journal which was published by the University. Miss Grays real fame came later in her life when in 1915 at the age of 35, she gave up on civilization and became a recluse in the Lake Michigan Dunes. “In solitude when we are least alone,” a passage from Byron served as inspiration for Alice Gray when she took over an abandoned shack with little more than a jelly glass, a knife, a spoon, a blanket, and two guns. Alice reported that Lord Byron’s poem provided “my first longings to get away from the conventional world, and I never gave up the idea, although a long time passed before I could fulfill it.” The press dubbed this beautiful and well educated daughter of a Chicago physician “Diana of the Dunes” perhaps in reference to Diana, the goddess of the moon and Miss Grays habit of moonlit skinny-dipping in Lake Michigan.
Alice Gray survived in her ramshackle shack by building driftwood boxes and selling them to buy bread and salt. She ate fish she caught and gathered berries and edible plants from her surroundings. She patronized the local library, and spoke in public about her interest in natural history and Dune lore. In 1916 she told a local reporter that “I wanted to live my own life a free life. The life of a salary earner in the cities is slavery, a constant fight for the means of living.”
In 1920 she met Paul Eisenblatter who went by the name of Paul Wilson, a fellow recluse, and by 1921 they were sharing a shack they called Wren’s Nest. Some accounts report that the couple were married in 1921 but others can not confirm that fact. Alice Gray Wilson never lost her free spirit, and there are several reports of her having fiery confrontations with both the press and the law including one in which she received a fractured skull.
Civilization infringed on the couples privacy and reporters hounded her relentlessly even her manuscripts were taken from their shack. Eventually “Diana of the Dunes” and the “Giant of the Dunes” as Mr. Wilson became to be known because of his towering six foot five inch height, made plans to escape to Texas via raft. These plans were never realized because Mrs. Alice Gray Wilson died of uremic poisoning after many years of kidney trouble on February 8, 1925 at the age of 43. Mrs. Wilson’s last request to be cremated and have her ashes scattered over the dunes was denied possibly because her family would not allow it and Mr. Wilson did not have the money to fulfill her wish. Reporters continued to plague the couple even after her death when the final assault by reporters at Mrs. Wilson’s funeral caused Mr. Wilson to pull out a gun and threaten to kill himself as well as a reporter and Chester Dunn, a nephew of Mrs. Wilson. Nobody was hurt, but Wilson was jailed and Alice Gray Wilson was buried in Oakhill cemetery near Gary Indiana.

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Detroit: Heidelberg Project, Eastern Market, Devries Market, Detroit golf course

1detroitbostonbluvNoah in Det. 2Another busy day exploring Detroit. We went to The Heidelberg Project, a crazy art installation that is located on two blocks of inner city Detroit that looks more rural than urban these days, with many vacant lots full between the occasional inhabited house in various degrees of disrepair. Some of the houses have become canvases outside (the polka dot house was my favorite) and then there are piles of strange objects strewn across he lots — old appliances, lots of stuffed animals, dolls, signs painted as clocks, shoes.

Interesting to see white non detroiters walking around a neighborhood they would ordinarily never feel comfortable walking through.

We went on to Eastern Market, had a coffee at Germack’s and walked though the old Hirt building that is now Devries Market, great old red brick building with wood floors and tons of Detroit Classic foods (vernors, sanders , dried Cherries).

Couldn’t resist driving home along Woodward avenue, stopping around 7 mile to see the fancy houses along the Detroit golf course, then to Sherwood. Forest and Palmer woods. Even stopped at my old pediatricians office which was in a house on seven mile and park side. (That photo is Noah in front of his great-grandparents’ house on Boston Avenue/Blvd. in Detroit.)

We did do a little exploring in ferndale (rust belt market) and Royal oak (atomic coffee, which has very good homemade lemonade and comfortable cheerful white and orang patio furniture.) Also had frozen custard at a stand on Woodward near 14 mile that had sanders hot fudge.) Yes, I am going to roll home.

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Detroit: Motown museum, slow’s BBQ, pewabic pottery, Avalon bakery, shinola,

1detroitmotown 2First stop Shinola, where we admired the sleek decor, the watches and bikes and almost total absence of price tags. next door at willy’s, a high-priced boutique, then to jolly pumpkin  for a light lunch in cool post industrial decor (Korean short rib pizza with arugula; curried potato chips.

we dropped by the Avalon bakery on the Wayne state campus which I’ve heard about for years. Amazing to see all the development going on. And really nice to see people walking around downtown where Hudson’s used to be and eating outside at a cafe.

Next stop: Pewabic pottery, a national historic landmark and a drive down Iriquois Street in Indian village lined with gorgeous well tended homes and gardens and yards and then, a stones throw away on charlevoix, classic urban blight with crumbling old houses and weed strewn empty lots.

onto Hitsville USA: the Motown museum in two of the eight houses where berry Gordy built his empire. A really fun tour full of music and interesting stories and memorabilia. It’s a very low tech exhibit which ai appreciated – you got to stand in the recording studio where many soon to be famous performers created their hits and the old 1960s office and living quarters. Our tour guide was young and enthusiastic and the tour ended with us all winding and dancing a Motown tune. Two Japanese tourists and a Brit among us.

Tonight we went to slow’s BBQ, in the shadow of the former crumbling train station, once a symbol of Detroit decay and now a symbol of its revival, as it is being rebuilt and repurposed.

Forgot to mention that we started by dropping by my great grandfather’s old house on the still elegant Boston Blvd.

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Driving from Chicago to Detroit: decisions

Decision #1: i90 skyway (about $7 tolls total) or i94? My dad suggested the tollway so we tried for the first time. Not the worlds best road (construction) but maybe not as bad as i94 thru Gary.

Decison#2:all important where to eat lunch? We stopped in the pretty lakeside town of st. Joseph and found a good place Cafe Tosi (good tuna melt…tuna with artichokes, feta) and muffuletta.

decision #3: where to stop for fruit. Exit 39 on i94 in Michigan at the stand we think is called fruit acres for good peaches and blueberries. Free samples are not slices of fruit but a whole peach or apple or whatever.

Decidon#4: dinner in Chicago last night. We ate at one of our old favorites…Andy’s Thai kitchen.

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Another Detroit is cool/hot story – this one from Architectural Digest

For future reference, when I finally get back home:

Architectural Digest does Detroit

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Dining in Detroit!

 

I  hope to get “home” to suburban Detroit this summer and when I do, I hope to try the hot dining scene downtown. Got this today from my dad there:

 

They forgot to mention Leo’s Coney Island…best egg salad in Pita in USA

Check out this article from The Detroit News:

Zagat names Detroit number 3 on “Hot” list

http://www.detroitnews.com/story/entertainment/2015/04/30/zagat-names-detroit-number/26664085/

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Blockbuster Diego Rivera/Frida Kahlo show in (where else?) Detroit!

 

I’ve been eager to return to my hometown (suburban Detroit) for a visit and here’s one more reason to do so before mid-July: new exhibition at the Detroit Institute of Arts is awe-inspiring, arriving as Detroit attempts to revive itself from financial ruin.

As a kid, I loved visiting the DIA and a highlight was Diego Rivera’s famous murals of industrial Detroit/America. Now the DIA has that and a whole lot more!

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Places to go in detroit when not in a hospital

Somehow forgot to post this — over a year ago. But has lots of good stuff on Detroit!

I have been reading Hour magazines “101 things every detroiters should do” and assume it pertains to former detroiters as well. So here’s some things that made my list:

– Roller Derby Motor City style: see the Motor city disassembly line, the Motown Wreckers, the D-Funk all stars and my fav, the Detroit Pistoffs.
– the Rust Belt Market in Ferdale, where Old Navy used to be. Weekend art fair of sorts.
– Ernie’s sandwich shop, Oak Park
– Ford Rouge Factory tour
– Detroit Mexicantown, churros at Mexicantown bakery
– Inn on Ferry Street
-cliff Bells jazz joint, Bakers Keyboard Lounge

– Detroit soup
– Mon Jin Lau in Troy
– Motor city wine bar, 608 Woodward
– Russell Industrial Center, artist in Albert Kahn former factory
-Funk Night, monthly at the contemporary art institute
– Motown museum
– Yemen Cafe in Dearborn
– :Dorothy turkell house (by FLWright)
– Royal Oak lost and found vintage
– pewabic Pottery,
– cadieux cafe… Mussels and feather bowling
– Arab American National Museum, sole museum in US dedicated to such

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More amazing dining options at Beaumont Hospital. No kidding

So last week we also discovered another corner of the food court at Beaumont Hospital in Royal Oak and darned if it wasn’t an outpost of Papa Joes, the fabulous gourmet market a little further north on Woodward (or Hunter) in Birmingham. Food there and here looks great. Gateway Market in Des Moines listen up….you could do this in Des Moines at Iowa Methodist!! (and maybe you already are)

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Glorious Royal Oak Farmers Market

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