Tag Archives: Pennsylvania

Back to Bloomsburg, PA – same good west end ale house, better motel (quality inn), Fog and flame coffee

Baseball practice outside motel

It’s still a long haul to get here in one day from Chicago, some 600 miles, about 10 hours factoring in a few irritating construction tie-ups on I-80. We had smooth sailing through most of Indiana and Ohio but then a 25 minute delay as the traffic piled up with a lane closure due to construction.

Pennsylvania’s wooded hills and wide river valleys are beautiful but driving up and down the Appalachian mountains, on the highway, sharing the road with big trucks, is a little hairy. Fortunately it wasn’t raining as as in the past and we only drove about a half hour in the dark.

The west end ale house kitchen in downtown Bloomsburg closes at 10 and we pulled in at 9:35. They couldn’t have been nicer, as was the case last year, and the cheeseburger was good. We met four nice young townies sitting outside next to us, thx to Millie dog talk, and they told us a bit about Bloomsburg University, which has 18,000 students and a party school rep, that has gone down a bit in recent years. (They seemed sad about that.) They were alumni in their later 20s. One was a stone mason, another a teacher with job corps. we drove around the campus which is high on a hill at the end of Main Street and has some pretty old buildings. (Fun fact: the gruff coach for the bad boy 1990s Detroit pistons is an alum. We passed Chuck Daley way on campus… the tip-off!)

Fog and Flame

We stayed at the Quality Inn which was hard to find – at the edge of a nondescript mall. A big bowl of dog biscuits awaited at the front desk and the place already seemed a step up from the Red Roof that we stayed at last year. The place was full of young baseball players (Williamsport, the little league World Series location is nearby). But our room was quiet. Coffee at fog and flame, the local coffeehouse was ok. Cute decor. Pastries lacking.

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Reposting: museum of the American revolution, independence hall,liberty bell, Frieda, Pesto – Philadelphia

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Museum of the American Revolution, Independence Hall, liberty Bell, Frieda — Philly

betsyrubiner

March 14

Indy hall
Revolutionary museum

Beautiful weather at last, the wind and cold is gone, the sun and blue sky remained. Perfect day to be a tourist in this, America’s first capital city. The Brits were particularly keen on visiting the attractions commemorating their country’s historic loss of territory and so we went to the well-done museum of the American Revolution, which has lots of mini-films with re-enactments of battles and other significant moments and hands on stuff for kids.

Frieda’s

Lunch was light, delicious and convenient at Frieda’s (thank you to our favorite Philly public school teacher for that recommendation.) good salads, sandwiches, pastries and rugalach in bright cheerful space. onto independence hall where we missed our timed entrance ny five minutes and fortunately got on a later tour. (Tix were sold out for the day by 3 pm.) The guide was excellent.

The bell

Very dramatic presentation and pretty cool to see the room where it happened with George Washington and Ben Franklin et. al. Across the street we caught the liberty bell in a rare tourist-free moment where we had it all to ourselves..dinner was in south Philly, Italian of course, a red sauce (actually “rose” or creamy red sauce place) called Pesto where our server talked the teacher from south Philly on Abbott Elementary.

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Philly post reposted —-Barnes Foundation, city center, Reading Terminal market, kalaya Thai in Fishtown – Philadelphia

Somehow this post didn’t land on my blog site so reposting it for posterity!

March 12

It’s not everyday that you get to vacation with three of your closest friends who live far away and far from each other but here we are in Philly. How great is that?!

We’re staying in a very old red brick row on a narrow one-block lane in center city, mid-1800s we think. Charming, centrally located Airbnb. With narrow planked wood floors, a tight twisting, low ceiling wood staircase, small pretty rooms, a tiny back yard with a flowering tree of some unknown sort with pink blossoms.

A 25 minute walk in a blustery cold and blindingly bright sunny morning took us through graceful old Rittenhouse Square to the fantastic Barnes Foundation. Fascinating place. I feel like returning today.

The museum is in a very contemporary building with a Japanese feel. The art is uniquely displayed, as prescribed by the original collector. Each room has a mishmash of work carefully arranged (Renoir, cezanne, Monet, among the heavy hitters and lots of unfamiliar names and some no name folk art plus textiles, African sculptures, a micro rug…) symmetry and all, plus interesting metal utilitarian objects that when hung on the wall call attention to their decorative features. Old Pennsylvania Dutch hand painted chests and other antiques are also displayed in each room, just so.

It may sound precious but it’s more ingenious and mysterious. After awhile I gave up trying to see everything or trying to figure out the thinking behind the odd juxtapositions and just let my eye wander to whatever caught my eye. Literally. Apparently I am a Rousseau and Modigliani fan. And folk art, which is no surprise. 

To each their own. Myra’s eye for example was caught by completely different work. It was fun to watch docents and teachers in action with young school kids. Oh and there are no informational labels. You can take a photo of a work on your cellphone and a description will pop up. The app also lets you keep a record of the work that most grabbed you. Cool!

Lunch was at very busy Reading terminal food hall. Tons of stalls and a bit overwhelming at first but a great local scene. We planted ourselves at a central food cart table and took turns foraging. The beef brisket sandwich was even better than the sliced pork with broccolini sandwich that was recommended to me by a local. Excellent German sweet chocolate cake.

Dinner was at Kalaya, a lively fun scene-y place in fishtown that is well regarded nationally. I found the Thai food a bit too complicated (and pricey.) I should have learned by now that the NYTimes annual list of innovative American restaurants plucked is not always a sure thing.

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Wilkes-Barre PA, mist in the Poconos, Poughkeepsie Walkway over the Hudson

There was rain and mist in the mountains as we left our unlovely motel and drove further north and east, stopping for coffee in what turned out to be the interesting city of Wilkes-Barre. It reminded me a little of Easton, my mom’s hometown with old redbrick row houses with white wood railing. But Wilkes-Barre had surprisingly grand old buildings, some banks or fraternal organizations, and two small colleges with pretty old buildings. A bridge over the river with eagle sculptured pediments, worthy of Europe. A memorial to fallen coal miners. Seemed a faded, once mighty industrial city on the rebound.

The most spectacular and unexpected building was a mosque with four minerets that could have been in Istanbul. Apparently it was a Shriners temple, built in the early 1900s. Abandoned, with some busted windows but perhaps slated for restoration.

Wilkes-Barre

We found good coffee and pastries at Abide, which welcomed Millie, our dog, inside. Another nearby coffeehouse, Pour, looked like a good option too.

Confirming Pennsylvania’s swing state status in the upcoming presidential election, we saw a Harris Walz sign near the Jewish center of King’s College and a nasty “ F—k Biden” sign in the window of a faded apartment building. Another window in the building had a “Catholics for Trump” sign.

The sky began to clear as we drove though the Poconos to the Hudson River, crossing into Poughkeepsie, enough so we could sit outside at the Palace diner, old school with shiny aluminum siding, and eat brunch while passing customers made a fuss over Millie. We had one mishap. Millie balked at climbing the metal grated steps leading up to the dramatic walkway over the Hudson, fashioned from a former rail bridge. We found a hill she could walk up to get on the bridge and walked about half the bridge span, soaking in the spectacular river views, and then took the handy elevator down and walked uphill the to our car.

Walkway over the Hudson

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Ohio Turnpike, Milan (Ohio) Melon Days, West End Ale Haus (Bloomsburg, PA) – Driving from Chicago to the Hudson Valley (NY)

As a kid driving from suburban Detroit to eastern Pennsylvania with my mom, I was excited when we first crossed the Ohio border into western Pennsylvania, only to soon discover (or remember) how long Pennsylvania is. Still, as we drive on I-80 today, decades later, I’m happy to leave the flat straight Ohio turnpike behind, in favor of a mountainous stretch of I-80 lined with trees (although preferably not driven in the rain).

Great dog-Friendly find

Unlike Iowa I-80 rest stops which have many appealing amenities (trust me), the Ohio turnpike rest-stop west of Cleveland offered no picnic tables or outdoor spaces to eat our picnic fare, let alone with a dog. Grrr. So we ended up taking a brief detour to the small town of Milan, west of Cleveland, which we learned is the home of Thomas Edison. We didn’t see his house, that we know of, but we saw many stately wood Victorian and 19th century red brick homes.

The town was packed with people attending the annual Milan Melon Days (as the street banner we drove under informed us). We found a public park with many picnic tables under a shelter, old playground equipment, and a pleasant view of a grassy slope lined with willow and pine trees. Worked.

Why does it always rain on highway 80 along the scenic but scary stretch through the mountains of western Pennsylvania? At least this trip, the rain was intermittent and Dirck was driving. (I had a much scarier ride years ago while driving solo with the kids in a downpour. Lots of trucks, curving road.)

We got lucky with a terrific dog-friendly pub (thanks Bringfido.com) m, the West End Ale Haus, in the small town of Bloomsburg, where we showed up just before the kitchen closed at 9 p.m. The server couldn’t have been nicer and the cheese burgers were perfect. We were the only diners outside on a Saturday night, with the occasional souped -up car dragging Main Street. Millie enjoyed her strawberry Greek yoghurt frozen treat.

Now we are at a somewhat grim but dog- friendly red roof inn a few miles east (Bloomsburg-Mifflinville).The woman at the front desk looked miserable and when I asked how she was doing, she said she had a headache and no Tylenol so I fished some ibuprofen out of the glove compartment for her.

No breakfast so I won’t get my on-the-road Raisin Bran fix. No carpet in our spacious but spartan room, disabled accessible, which was okay until about 1:45 am when people arrived above us in what I’m guessing was also an uncarpeted room. They sounded like a bunch of elephants dragging roller bags and rearranging the furniture for hours. Who needs sleep?

Milan, Ohio

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Italian Market, di Bruno brothers house of cheese, Fante kitchen, Angelo pizza and cheeses take, Bok building, tabachoy, Parc — south Philly

And then came summer. Or close. In the three days we’ve been here the temperature went from blustery 40s to balmy 70s. Today was perfect for a lot of walking south to the Italian market which is actually several blocks along 9th street lined with old food shops and fruit markets.

Italian market

We visited several including di Bruno Brothers house of cheese, whose large selection spanned cheese from Francine and Russ’s London (Neal’s yard) to Myra’s beloved finger lakes (Cayuga blue cheese from Lively Run creamery near Seneca Lake.)

Cheesesteak

We had gooey chewy meaty Philly cheese steaks at Angelo’s. I could eat only half of mine, which in of itself was enormous. We ate outside at a picnic table in an open lot provided by Di Bruno brothers.

Bok building view

The Bok building is an enormous former technical high school, art deco, turned into makers and artists studios and some shops, pricey sandals make out of old Kilims. That sort of thing. There’s a club at the top with an amazing deck overlooking the city. Dinner was Filipino at Tabachoy, which we all decided was a little too odd for our tastes. It makes me question again the NYTimes annual list of innovative restaurants. Maybe a little too innovative for my tastes.

breakfast on out last morning was at the lovely Parc, which resembles a French bistro, overlooking Rittenhouse Square. our London pals checked into the Alexander Inn, an old world, well-located place that was a reasonable $165. Next trip:Washington Square. Elspeth place, walk along the river, old prison. But as is, we feel like we got a good feel for this historic old city that is my grandfathers hometown.

Cheese store

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flight 93/ Shanksville in the news..

www.nytimes.com/2021/05/10/us/9-11-hero-award.html

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Sobering visit to Shanksville, Pa. – flight 93 National Memorial

About 1.5 hours south of Pittsburgh, we stopped at the site of the flight that crashed into farm land on 9/11/01, averting even more devastation in Washington D.C. (The terrorists were likely targeting the U.S. Capitol, or maybe the White House.)

The weather was fittingly gloomy, cold and rainy. The hardest part of the visit was listening to telephone messages that three passengers made to their families from the plane when they knew they would likely die. The plane had been hijacked by suicide terrorists, other planes had already crashed into the world trade Center Towers and the crew and passengers of flight 93 decided to thwart the hijackers plan to crash into the U.S. Capitol …which is a stone’s throw from where we are sleeping tonight, in an Airbnb carriage house in the Capitol East neighborhood, around the block from our son’s apartment. Flight 93 crashed in the tiny rural hamlet of Shanksville, killing all 40 passengers and crew aboard.

The memorial overlooking the flight 93 crash site.

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Vanka Murals, original Oyster House, Mattress Factory – artsy Pittsburgh

Very full and fun day seeing a variety of provoking art on a cool sunny Thursday. We began at a Croatian Catholic Church (St. Nicholas) in Millvale for a docent-led tour of the amazing murals inside painted between the world wars (1938, 1941) by Maxo Vanka, an Austrian painter with ties to Croatia. We were early so we drove up an impossibly steep one-lane road to a handful of houses clinging to the hillside, with spectacular views of the old brick mill, modest homes and river tucked in the valley.

The Vanka Murals are strikingly contemporary, with scenes of modern war, proud socialism and uncharacteristically (for churches we are told) strong females. The murals cover all the walls and high-domed ceiling and are in the process of being restored. Tours are offered on Saturday. We lucked into a Thursday tour, thanks to a bigger group that had booked and came 1/2 hour late.

Our Airbnb street in Lawrenceville
Vanka murals
Vanka murals

Next stop, a fresh fried fish sandwich at the Original Oyster House downtown on Market Square which gave us a chance to admire the interesting architecture, old and new, downtown. The fish tasted very fresh and fun to eat inside (yes, inside…post-vaccines) an old tavern with vintage photos of Miss America pageants and Pirates baseball.

The Mattress Factory is in the lovely Mexican War Streets neighborhood, with gorgeous restored homes lining the streets. Fancier than Lawrenceville, not as fancy as Squirrel Hill. The museum specializes in “immersive” art and that it was, which was a bit challenging to navigate at times with my broken foot because we were sometimes plunged into complete darkness and had to navigate tricky steps and dark narrow passageways. Some artists we recognized – James Turrell and Yayoi Kusama.

Kusama polka dot and mirrors = infinity room

Beyond the four floors of the factory building are two neighborhood houses nearby, also with immersive installations. One installation takes up the entire three floors of the house, with holes cut in the floors so you can look up or down at the adjacent floor. Another had a Small piano hoisted awkwardly in the air on ropes and a song composed for the piece you could play on your phone.

Covid is also inspiring some strange art, this museum suggests.

Covid art
Vanka murals
Mattress factory

We did a little browsing at sweet independent shops along Butler street. (Pastries at la gourmandine, buttercream) Quite a few have limited hours, perhaps due to the pandemic. People are good about wearing masks and/or reminding you to put yours on if you forget. (Mine hangs on a chord around my neck for easy in and off.)

We met old (younger) friends Dan and Elizabeth for dinner in a tented space outside Spirit, a performance space in Lawrenceville located in a former Moose Lodge.

Toasting baby Charlotte, niece of Dan &Elizabeth

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Duquesne Incline, Strip District, church Brew works, Lawrenceville – Pittsburgh

With steep narrow streets lined with narrow row houses and so many iron bridges, hills and valleys, Pittsburgh struck me at first as a giant Easton, as in the river town on the other side of Pennsylvania, where my mother grew up.

We went first to ride the atmospheric funicular that climbs Mount Washington at a steep incline (hence the name, the Duquesne Incline), traveling inside an old wooden cable car. As promised, the view of the city fanning out across the valley below and up the opposite hillsides, at the convergence of three rivers, is spectacular. We returned at night to Grandview Avenue, which is lined with viewing platforms to see the city adorned with lights. Dazzling.

Grand view from the overlook along Grandview Avenue

We finally found the concentration of old warehouses and ethnic food purveyors along Penn Avenue in the Strip District and I hobbled along (my foot is broken) to window shop. (We stopped at a huge candy store, grandpa Joes to pick up some hard-to-find Royal Crown Sours.) Next stop, Squirrel hill, the fancy and yes, hilly, area with non-attached big brick houses and past the various Carnegie Museums.

Beer en masse

Our Airbnb is one of those narrow row houses in Lawrenceville with long caramel-colored wood plank floors and an old red brick fireplace. The street reminds me of my grandmother’s street in Easton (except it has hipster shops and restaurants a block a way on Butler Street). We entered through a little gate on the side of the white wooden row house and walked down a narrow alleyway to the back door. Dinner was good takeout pizza (pandemic style) from Driftwood Oven and then off to church for a beer. No joke. There’s a place called The Church Brew Works in a lovely old high ceilinged Romanesque church in Lawrenceville. Dirck’s brother figured it counts as mass attendance.

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