Tag Archives: New York City

The Met’s Madame X, nearby Mad Men fav – William Greenberg Bakery (schnecken!) in NYC

What better place to spend a cold overcast day in New York City than the Metropolitan Museum of Art? I wasn’t the only one with this brilliant idea – the museum was packed last Tuesday, which is part of the fun of going to the museum (I spend as much time looking at the people as I do looking at the art.) I started in the revamped Arab Lands exhibit where I saw the new courtyard installed by artisans from the Middle East and admired the illustrated pages of the Qur’an, then just wandered through one exotic land after another thinking about my favorite book as a kid, From the Mixed Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler, by E.L. Konigsberg, where two kids ran away from home and lived in the Met, having a grand old time.  I ended up in the American wing – after a brief wander through the Modern Art area and the Medieval art area – and happily toured the historic rooms full of period decorative art from the Shakers through to Frank Lloyd Wright. I was particularly captivated this time by the Tiffany windows and blown glass bowls and vases. (Next time I’ll try to follow the tour in sequence so I can see the “progression” of style more clearly.)  Also enjoyed the room full of John Singer Sargent portraits including the one of the captivating  Madame X portrait. And I also happened upon Washington Crossing the Delaware.

Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau), 1883–84
John Singer Sargent (American, 1856–1925)
Oil on canvas

I ate a light lunch downstairs in the basement cafeteria, where I ended up talking with a woman from “rural” Long Island (Orient Point, which we passed through last summer when we took the ferry from Connecticut to Long Island) who “LOVES” Iowa and specifically Iowa City where she attended a U of Iowa Writers Workshop seminar.  (She even loved it after being evacuated from the campus – she was there during the horrific 2008 flood.)

After the museum, I wandered on Madison Avenue until I  found William Greenberg Desserts ( 1100 Madison Avenue.
btw 82nd and 83 Street ), a famous Jewish bakery with a delicacy from my childhood: schnecken, (featured in the photo above!) a sticky bun that’s sort of the Jewish version of a cinnamon role but crispier and with more cinnamon, pecans, and raisins. Fun Fact: on a recent episode of Mad Men,  Don’s new wife Megan gives Trudy a red tin full of Greenberg brownies as a hostess gift before an  awkward dinner party in Cos Cob. Trudy is most impressed!(“Our special sour cream yeast dough, rolled up with raisins, pecans, brown sugar and cinnamon. Our customers’ favorite for 50 years!” reports the handy Greenberg website where you can order gift tins – hint, hint family!) The bakery is also famous for its black and white cookies and rugalah.

Less impressive was the too-hard, too-expensive raisin and nut roll I picked up at E.A.T.

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cafe habana, Tacombi, Zucco , Duane Street Patisserie – from soho to lower east side to tribeca in nyc

On another gorgeous day, I met my old friend M at Grand Central station where she arrived from Connecticut and we took off for five hours of walking and talking. Glorious. We started in Soho or near taking the #6 train to the Spring Street stop and from there somehow found our way past Lombardi’s pizza (have you noticed almost all of my visual landmarks are restaurants or food shops?) and a small outdoor crafts display (where I yet again bought a pair of earrings for one of my daughters) to Cafe Habana. We just missed rush hour and ordered at the counter, then ate outside on a red bench in the sunshine – cuban sandwich, grilled corn on the cob rolled in white stuff (queso?) and a jicama salad (too much food so M took the salad back to Connecticut.) A few doors down we spotted Tacombi, an airy garage with various stations serving tacos and beer – one station was an old VW bus selling tacos. Clever idea.

On the Lower East Side, we walked past the knish store on Houston, then quickly toured Russ and Daughters appetizers (just to look at the smoked fish, white fish salad and rugalah  so my pal M – who grew up in Forest Hills – could get a taste of home). We walked past a crowded tiny french diner called Zucco on Orchard Street that I’m listing here for future reference. Then we just kept walking through one vibrant neighborhood after another, tons of people walking around, sitting at outdoor cafes, the city never looked better. We passed through Chinatown, Little Italy, City Hall area (and before that a park full of Chinese people playing board games akin to checkers)while people gathered in a dense crowd around them watching intently. We ended up in Tribeca on Duane Street, which I finally found after several missteps – and we had cold drinks and two, only two, delicate chocolate-dipped leaf-shaped sugar cookies,  at the Duane Street Patisserie, popped into Lucca, the amazing furniture store, across the street, and at the little british store nearby (working class).  After  goodbye beers  at Cafe Centro on the east side of Grand Central, M left for home and I walked to have dinner with friends at a penthouse apartment on 1st and 33rd street across from NYU medical center with a beautiful view of the East River. Then back on the 34 bus to the #1 train to the opposite side of the city and the other river –  my friend’s apartment on Riverside drive overlooking the Hudson. Loved it all!

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Absolute Bagel-Rita’s frozen custard – Do Hwa korean food in NYC

I’ve been somewhat lost on the bagel front ever since H&M Bagels closed on the upper west side of NYC. But yesterday I stumbled into Absolute Bagels on Broadway near 107th street and was impressed with the bagels, not to mention the lox-cream cheese and bagel sandwich. So all  is not lost. A little further south as I was walking down Broadway on a spectacular spring day, I happened upon  Rita’s frozen custard – and since frozen custard something I rarely find these days, I bought a small cone. Yum. I walked all the way from 108th to Central Park (with a stop at Pinky’s for a splurge mani-pedi because my back was aching and I needed to rest for a bit) then back west to Lincoln Center where I took the #1 train to meet my brother and sister-in-law and her mother for dinner at an excellent Korean restaurant, Do Hwa, at 50  Carmine Street. Now I understand why they like Korean food! (we had very good bbq beef, bimimbob, a pancake with kimchi in it, and beignets, oddly, on the house.)

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A Costa Rica transportation tax for a Des Moines to Newark flight – HUH?

I swear, this do-it-yourself online plane-ticket reservations stuff is so confusing. Yesterday, I finally settled on taking a Des Moines to Newark flight on United in April after weighing various other options to get to NYC. (LaGuardia was more expensive; the flight to Newark is direct! etc.)  The ticket was $359 when I first spotted it. (Not cheap, I know.) An hour or so later it was suddenly $396. I wondered why. So I looked at the fine print and saw that the ticket price was still the same ($338) but the additional taxes/fees had increased from $21.60 by $37. So I looked at the breakdown of the taxes/fees and saw that it included a $15.75 “Costa Rica transportation tax.” Say what?

Then all of a sudden the original $359 fare popped up onto my screen so I just grabbed it – no questions asked. Grrrr

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New York City – Japanese noodles, a Fireside chat, drink at doc’s

During our annual whirlwind tour of NYC during thanksgiving we have:

– eaten very good japanese noodle soup at a restaurant that begins with an M on West 55th Street. (I’ll dig up that name when I can.)

– Strolled past the cool Lady Gaga holiday windows at Barney’s on Madison Avenue

– Had a long leisurely lunch with an old friend from London in the “casual elegant” Fireside restaurant of the Omni Berkshire hotel in midtown

– Met an old college friend for a beer at Doc Watson’s on 2nd Avenue between E. 77th and 78th

– Dodged the crowds watching the parade balloons being inflated on the upper west side by ducking into Scaletta for dinner (good bolognese!)

– Dodged the crowds watching the parade on Thanksgiving Day (at one point, I simply joined the tail end of the parade after the crowds along the sidewalks got to large and scary). I was the irritated looking woman in civilian clothes walking along side cheerful yellow and red costumed paraders holding up the Macy’s inflated stars. My expression: don’t dare to stop me.

– Cut through the crowds of people about ready to Occupy Best Buy on the upper west side after Thanksgiving dinner

– Took a glorious late night walk on Thanksgiving from central park west to central park south and then up Lexington Ave. to E. 69th where we stayed

– Joined 10 other relatives at a chaotic Penn Station to take the train to Southampton.

– Bought some last-minute gifts in Southampton – a novel at Book Hampton, an ice cream b’day cake at Carvel, some knickknacks at Home and Nature

 

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NYC here we come

We leave for NYC on this rainy morning in DM and as always, excited to see friends and family but dreading some of the hassle involved in navigating the airports and the city during the Thanksgiving holiday. On tap:

– dinner tonight at Il Corso in midtown with family and friends

– lunch tomorrow with an old friend from London at Fireside in midtown; drink in early eve with old college friend at Doc Watson’s on upper east side; dinner with family at Scaletta’s on upper west side (first I have to figure out if I can get a cross town bus, given the parade set up right – including the balloons that are blown up on 77th, right outside the restaurant.)

– Parade party at my cousin’s apt on Central Park West (I’ll be walking across the park and hope to arrive when the parade has just passed by – so I can cross the street….), Thanksgiving dinner at other relatives down the street.

And so on….Happy holidays!

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Brooklyn Bridge – Dumbo – World trade Center site – Tribeca – east Village

The view from the Brooklyn Bridge was partly obscured by construction scaffolding but still stunning and a glorious walk on a sunny September morning. Wished I had more time to wander around Brooklyn Heights, didn’t find that much of interest in Dumbo, so I carried on across the bridge (bit tricky to find the pedestrian entrance) and onto Zucker Bagels for bagel-lox-cream cheese (excellent), then went to the old church by the World Trade Center site which has a touching display to mark the 10th anniversary of 9/11. The church was a refuge for first responders and it’s  hard not to get choked up looking at the photos and remnants from that time. On to Tribeca where  I found the lovely little pocket park on  Duane Street – stopped in at the patisserie (of the same name) for lemonade and some cookies to bring to a friend’s kids (with proceeds of cookies going to 9/11 stuff), cute shop with lots of British stuff  called Working Class, cool furniture store using reclaimed this and than called Lucca. Dropped of fatigue on a very comfortable bench by Battery Park (I think) with great river view and perfect breeze. Dinner at Motorino Pizza on E. 12 near 1st in East Village (best bets: meatball appetizer, any pizzas with red sauce, tiramisu. )

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New section of the High Line – Central Park – Madison Ave

What a spectacular day in New York City with perfect weather – warm but not hot, sunshine but breezy. I could have walked forever (if my feet would permit.) One upside of all the rain NYC has gotten this summer (and I know there are major downsides) is that everything is so green and lush – which is very refreshing coming from the parched and browning Midwest. Central Park looked like Ireland this morning as I walked across it at around 72nd street. Took a stroll up Madison Avenue to early 80s to check out the latest completely unaffordable fall fashions, then had lunch w/a dear friend at Bella Blue (great artichoke salad!). We took the subway to 14th and 8th avenue then a short walk to the High Line. It was not only longer than my last visit (thanks to the recent opening of the second section) but the vegetation was higher and dense – sometimes blocking views of the river but still one of the great things to do in this city – great views you’d never see otherwise and fun people watching. Not so sure about the Pineapple-Jalapeno ice bar I ate – good at the time but Jalapeno is not sitting that well with me.

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Brunch on the west side, the Jewish Museum on the east side

Warmer today and just as sunny – we had a very nice brunch at Henry’s, on Broadway near 107th Street. Good service, good food (bacon! eggs! french toast et.al.) and no wait for a table on a Sunday midday. Then to the Jewish Museum on 92nd Street and Fifth Avenue which I’ve never been to and thoroughly enjoyed (sometimes it’s good to be among my own….) The Maira Kalman show was a lot of fun – thoroughly enjoyed. Also liked the gift shop a lot which had fun Passover items, good books, etc. Since we were in the neighborhood, we checked on the 92nd Street Y on Lexington which I’ve long heard about but never been to. Great bastion of culture – a concert and dance performance were going on during our visit.

We walked south along Madison Avenue windowshopping, admiring the lovely formal children’s clothing, the housewares (my friend bought beautiful shower curtain material at a French shop, Madera), the designer boutiques, chocolate shops. We bumped, literally, into large colorfully dressed crowd that had performed in what was apparently a parade celebrating all things Greek. Further south, we dropped in at The Plaza Hotel and walked through the new (or new to me) fancy food court in the basement, tried to get tea in the Palm Court (it was 5 p.m. too late), and paid a visit to the Eloise portrait (a sentimental favorite.) Then taxied back to 108th and Riverside Drive. Nice New York day!

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NYC recommendations from a friend

A friend just returned from a trip to NYC and reports enjoying:  “Bloody, Bloody, Andrew Jackson”, the Stieglitz, Steichen, Strand exhibit at the Met and Upright Citizen’s Brigade.

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