June 26, 2018 · 4:50 pm

More biking, a canal tour, changing of the guard (who knew?), The Standard, Danish Design Museum, Baest – Copenhagen

Searching for Noma. (Never did find…not that we were going to eat there…..)

We are really sad to give up our bikes tomorrow. Today, we rode much more confidently, comfortably and competently, with one day of experience under our belts. I read in a guide book today that the bridge road we ride to get to Nørrebro is the most heavily traveled bike road in the world. I believe it. We road directly to Nyhavn in about 12 minutes (much faster than expected) and hoped on a one hour guided canal tour (We took the cheaper one that starts with an “n” — it was good.) The tour especially was helpful  since we rode our bikes past many impressive buildings and statues we were wondering about. We found out what several of them are.

Herring for lunch…in honor of dad!

We also realized that there was a posh neighborhood to explore east of Nyhavn canal so we rode up and down various long straight streets with imposing stone mansions. We also rode into the royal palace square just in time for the changing of the guard. — much more accessible than the one at Buckingham Palace. We also rode along Gammel Stan, a pretty, narrow street lining a canal (unfortunately under construction) and in the narrow cobblestone streets with smaller very old houses (dodging a tour group or two).

Chairs from my childhood (Danish modern!) at the Danish Design Museum

Chairs from our kids childhood!

The weather was sunny again and hotter than yesterday– unusually hot (it got up to 79) we are told and the city is talking about being too dry (meanwhile we heard there is rain and flooding back home in Iowa). Both dirck and I didn’t think to use sunscreen and are looking a bit tomato-ish.

We ate well again but had some customer service issues, which was a change from yesterday when the servers were so on top of things and personable at Pate, Pate. At the fashionable Almanak, in the cool green painted Art Deco building called the Standard, near Nyhavn, we had slow and confused service…so confused that we were half way through our meal when we realized it wasn’t what we ordered. It was the order of the table next to us . We ended up getting our original order as well — basically two entrees each and the guys next to us appeared to be investment bankers on an expense account who ordered the most expensive entrees. Thank you very much.

The rose shrimp in particular was the most flavorful cold boiled shrimp I have ever tasted. The shrimp were big with the heads on and the guts, I gotta say, were delicious (akin to the creamy stuff in lobster). It came served simply with a couple dabs of mayonaise and two beautifully toasted small crispy bread chunks. The  entree I ordered was far more modest but also good — an open faced sandwich with tiny little shrimp and hard boiled eggs with rich yellow yokes.

In my dad’s honor we tried herring (my mom noted in her 1972 travelogue about her Copenhagen trip that “Allen loves the herring.”) Still not my thing but better than the yucky pickled herring in white cream sauce that dad loves. We got to try it two ways, thanks to the order mixup and the fried kind was my favorite (not exactly sure what the other herring was…)

We loved the Danish Design Museum despite the persnickety staff and their rules. Our favorite part was toward the end of the loop we all had to follow — with all the Danish modern furniture and especially the Danish chairs, several of which I grew up with in my ancestral home in Huntington Woods. It was really interesting to see the roots of some of those designs in earlier furniture and chairs. I also liked the temporary exhibit we were required to visit first — showing the confluence of Japanese and Danish modern design, which was new to me. And the clothing design exhibit was fun. But I would have preferred to visit the permanent exhibit first, when I had the most energy and before I started to get thirsty (from all that herring and shrimp.) By the time we got to the museum’s cafe, I was so thirsty but for the first time we encountered flat out rude servers. We waited for awhile at the counter, only to be finally acknowledged and told we needed to sit at a table and be served. Which we did for way too long, watching the one server nearby clean table after table instead of acknowledging the few of us sitting and waiting in the sun. We finally gave up and I drank some warm water out of the bathroom faucet. Grrr.

We had a much better experience at Emmery, a little bakery around the corner from our Airbnb where a sweet young woman not only swiftly served us an incredibly delicious Danish version of a cinnamon roll (with gobs of chocolate in the hollow Center) but added a piece of a chocolate rum ball — another Danish speciality she said we needed to try. (But not called “a Danish” and not really resembling the American one.)

Dinner at Baest , a two minute bike ride from our Airbnb in Nørrebro (as fate would have it) was an adventure. The casual (but pricey) restaurant prides itself in making/raising almost everything it serves. On its farm outside town….the cheeses, charcuterie, greens, vegetables. Everything tasted vividly fresh and full of flavor. Our  pizza was a little strange…looked more like a salad, with fresh greens, herbs and uncooked mushrooms atop a burrata type cheese (stratatella?) and perfect chewy crust. We had a strange dessert we were told is very Danish and translates into”cold bowl.”It looked more like breakfast, i.e. Breakfast cereal. It was sliced fresh strawberries and bits of biscuit in a soupy yoghurt-like liquid. “You helped us decide what to do on that,” one of the two young British guys sitting next to us joked. They passed.

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June 26, 2018 · 4:36 pm

Biking around Copenhagen

Near Narroport Metro

I haven’t seen this many bikes in motion since RAGBRAI, the annual ride across Iowa that lures about 20,000 riders. The difference here is the riders are sharing a lane along busy city streets, which takes some getting used to, especially since Danes don’t do the courteous Iowans’ heads up (“on your left”) when they pass you. Often the pass very closely on the left or the right, which can be unnerving. We found out that the street we ride from the Norreport station to Nørrebro is the most heavily cycled street in the world. I believe it. Other than the sometimes intimidating volume of bikes, this is a bikers’ city. Everyone is riding everywhere and there are designated lanes and traffic lights for bikers that help set them apart from the walkers and the cars.

Nyhavn canal

The terrain is also flat, although the brick streets along the canals are very rough riding. And the distances from one attraction to the next are easily ride-able. We rode to many of the main tourist spots and neighborhoods –the graffiti and psychedelic murals of the hippie neighborhood Christiana; the cool spiral steepled church in Christianshvan.

Christiana scene

We rode twice over the cool new bridge that connects christianshavn and Nyhavn, the famous canal lined with painted row houses in deep ochre, rouge and blues. We passed a lot of grand buildings we were not familiar with. We rode thru Vesterbro, another neighborhood I considered staying in, Vesterbro, and ate outdoors in the meat packing District at Pate Pate. (Inspired by that name, I had excellent chicken livers. Also lemonade with little bits of freshly ground vanilla bean.)

Tonight we went to Tivoli, which was fun but we don’t do rides and we didn’t get the full effect of the fairytale lights at night because it was still light out when we left at 10:15 p.m., which is amazing. It didn’t get dark until 10:45.

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June 24, 2018 · 8:15 pm

Spreading our wings in Copenhagen

Mural at O’Hare

And so it begins! After a six hour drive from Des Moines to Chicago and a few hours hanging out with emma, we arrived 3 hours ahead of our 9:45pm flight at O’Hare to Copenhagen via London on Norwegian Air. Had lots of time to kill and fortunately our gate was right by a Frontera grill Torta stand so we shared an excellent Cuban sandwich.

Our maiden flight on Norwegian air went well. Nice clean not to bare bones a plane for an economy carrier. No pillows or blankets but not sure we need anyway. Very young chipper English-sounding flight attendants. Not sure we needed the food either although it came when we paid extra for a seat assignment and checked luggage.

9:30 pm outside our Airbnb

We did have a tight connection in Gatwick – 70 minutes – but our flight arrived almost on time. We easily found the metro at the airport and the metro came quickly. E got off at Norreport metro station and walked northwest along frederikborggade and the lively bridge to our Airbnb. We are staying in an elegant turn of the (20th century) yellow brick apartment on the top floor (5 flight) with high ceilings, white walls, crown mounding, contemporary art, carved wood, Danish modern furniture. The owner is a documentary journalist for a local tv station. We are in Nørrebro along the lake (which we thought was a canal). Initial impressions: classy cool city, everyone riding bikes, few wearing helmets, striking blonds and brunettes, more smoking than expected, everyone out til late and still light hours enjoying the cafes and sunshine. We had an excellent fish and chips and salmon burger at a hip little cafe called “Hooked.” On Norrebrogade St.

Too exhausted to write more. Dirck has already conked out on our bed in our high ceilinged room with the glorious view at Sortedam Dossering #27.

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June 22, 2018 · 4:21 pm

Riding a new almost-loop along both sides of the Des Moines River – in DSM

Whether biking, walking or driving, I always prefer going in a loop — returning a different way than the one I just rode, walked or drove.  New scenery, new experiences, new, new, new! But it’s not always easy- – especially on bike trails around Des Moines.

Now we have a new almost-loop that takes us north of our Beaverdale/Drake Neighborhood, on both sides of the Des Moines River, thanks to the new improved bridge on NW 66th Avenue that crosses the river.  It’s all about “connectivity” — in this case connecting the Inter-Urban Trail to the Trestle to Trestle Trail , along the river’s west bank, to the Neal Smith Trail, along the river’s east bank. It’s not perfect — the second connection still requires navigating residential streets — but it’s better than it used to be.

From our house, we ride north to the intersection of  Urbandale Avenue and 34th street, where we hop on the Inter-Urban trail, winding through the woods eastward, across  30th street on Urbandale Avenue, past the HyVee on ML King Blvd and onto the  Trestle to Trestle Trail, riding north to the Des Moines suburb of Johnston.

In the bad old days, we used to turn around when we got to the ice cream shop (Van Dees) in Johnston (where all good trails should lead) and retrace our route. Or we’d dare to wend our way north and east on neighborhood streets (including the once-scary NW 66th Avenue bridge) to connect to the Neal Smith Trail, where we’d ride south on the river’s east bank.

Now, thanks to the new bridge, getting to the river’s east side is a breeze — a pleasant discovery we made last Sunday.

The NW 66th Ave. bridge now has a self-contained bike lane!  On the west side of the bridge, there also is a new section of paved trail that leads briefly into the woods, away from the car traffic.  In the past, we had to ride on a sidewalk along the busy road to the bridge and then share the bridge road (which narrows) with cars.  At least once, we almost got blown over by passing cars while riding on the bridge’s slim and rough shoulder. NOT FUN!

Thanks to the new bridge, we can now ride safely to the east side of the river, head south to the  (Wakonsa) Trestle Bridge and then retrace our route on to the Inter-Urban trail and home.

 

 

 

 

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June 18, 2018 · 2:44 pm

Fake Prince in Des Moines

One of my bigger regrets is not going to see the real Prince when he performed years ago in Ames, Iowa (not far from where we live in Des Moines). So last Friday, we took the best we could get, especially now that Real Prince is, sadly, no longer with us. We went to a tribute band that rumor has it was the only fake that the Real Deal  approved of.

Simon Estes Amphitheater was packed, with a sold-out crowd, and it was a lovely, albeit wickedly hot and humid June night on the river.  “The Prince Experience” wasn’t bad. Fake Prince was a little shorter and thicker around the midriff than Real Prince but he sang well and proudly wore his white ruffled shirt and long purple sparkly duster . Fake Sheila E was working hard too. We didn’t  understand why the keyboard player wore what appeared to be medical scrubs, looking like he just left his shift at Mercy Hospital.  But he proudly announced several times he was a West Des Moines native so we gave him a pass. It was the kind of concert where you had to be prepared to laugh a little — at the band and yourself.

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June 15, 2018 · 6:01 pm

Hot off the Press: story in Minneapolis Star Tribune on Des Moines’ public art.

Here’s a story I wrote (and yes, that’s my son and son-in-law in the photo)…

Midwest Traveler: Des Moines is Iowa’s capital of public art

Des Moines will be busy during next weekend’s annual Arts Festival.

By Betsy Rubiner Special to the Star Tribune

 

JUNE 14, 2018 — 6:25PM

New York artist Keith Haring’s “Untitled (Three Dancing Figures, version C)” is also found in the Des Moines sculpture park.

“A lot of it, I don’t recognize,” said my 26-year-old son, who now lives in Minneapolis, as we walked around his hometown of Des Moines. “Downtown looks pretty good!”

Some of the credit for that goes to public art enthusiasts, who have not only dotted downtown Des Moines with sculpture, installations and murals but have created an Art Route that helps visitors and locals find 87 artworks. A free app also provides the locations, plus details about artists including Claes Oldenberg, Louise Bourgeois, Maya Lin and Joel Shapiro.

The downtown Art Route’s western portion — dominated by the popular John and Mary Pappajohn Sculpture Park — will be particularly busy June 22-24, when it is the site of the Des Moines Arts Festival, which includes a juried exhibition.

 

On a sleepier spring weekend, my husband and I explored the 6.6-mile Art Route DSM (artroutedsm.com) with visiting millennials — our son, as well as our daughter and her husband, who live in Chicago.

 

As a Des Moines transplant, I’ve long admired the art around town. But recently, I started noticing green dots painted on sidewalks and painted street intersections, which, I learned, denote the art route.

On the Greater Des Moines Public Art Foundation’s website (dsmpublicartfoundation.org), I found out that the route stretches primarily around three west-east thoroughfares: Grand Avenue, Locust Street and Walnut Street. (I also learned that a Canadian street artist painted the street intersections/“installations.”)

PHOTOS BY BETSY RUBINER • SPECIAL TO THE STAR TRIBUNE

Danish artist Olafur Eliasson’s “Panoramic Awareness Pavilion,” at left, is a centerpiece of Pappajohn Sculpture Park in Des Moines.

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Much of the art locations/green dots are west of the Des Moines River near the Pappajohn Sculpture Park, where more than two dozen contemporary sculptures sit on an undulating 4.4-acre grassy site divided by curving paths. Some of the route’s artwork is located along the river or east of it, in the burgeoning East Village neighborhood and by the gold-domed State Capitol.

Because the route does not have a designated start or end (or numbered stops), I arrived with a rough DIY plan and two helpful tools from the public art foundation website — a printout of the route map and the Public Art App, which I downloaded on my phone.

The Pappajohn Sculpture Park proved a logical starting point, thanks to its concentration of art. Opened in 2009, the park is an old favorite by now, so we zeroed in on recent additions including Japanese sculptor Yayoi Kusama’s 8-foot-high “Pumpkin Large” and Danish artist Olafur Eliasson’s rainbow-mirrored “Panoramic Awareness Pavilion.”

While visiting a signature park piece — Spanish sculptor Jaume Plensa’s “Nomade,” a 27-foot-tall hollow human form made of a latticework of white steel letters — I stumped the Chicagoans by asking them to guess which sculpture Plensa designed in their city’s Millennium Park. (The surprising answer: “Crown Fountain,” the video sculpture that includes two 50-foot glass towers displaying Chicago residents’ faces, whose mouths spout water.)

As we admired New York graffiti artist Keith Haring’s untitled sculpture of three dancing figures, we used another helpful tool — a free audio podcast walking tour from the Des Moines Art Center. Following posted instructions, we dialed a number on my phone, entered the number on a sign in front of the Haring sculpture and listened to an erudite recording. (An engaging family guide is also available on the Art Center website, des­moinesartcenter.org.)

New architecture

Before leaving the park, we gazed up at the dramatic building under construction nearby, designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano. The five-story Krause Gateway Center — the Kum & Go convenience store chain’s new headquarters — is already a presence, with its massive scale and sculptural look including high glass walls separated by four overhanging white horizontal planes.

“The Piano” is among several architectural gems we passed. Others include the 2006 public library, clad in daylight-permeable copper windows and designed by British architect David Chipperfield; and the recently renovated Catholic Pastoral Center, a 1962 steel and glass modernist building by Mies van der Rohe. Another highlight: two cool contemporary pedestrian bridges over the river — the 2010 Iowa Women of Achievement Bridge, which arches over a dam, and the Red Bridge, an 1891 rail bridge that got a modern makeover in 2005.

Heading northeast, we stopped at the familiar and impressive sculpture park beside the modernist American Republic Insurance building. But we also spotted unfamiliar work, including a colorful mural painted on the back of a building we have driven past for years.

Some of the art turned out to be inside buildings closed on a Sunday, but still visible. We peeked through glass to see Maya Lin’s installation “A Shift in the Stream” inside the Principal Corporate 4 building lobby and Sol Lewitt’s colorful painting “Whirls and Twirls” inside the Pappajohn Education Center.

We also realized that the route is long — especially on foot — so we did only a portion before stopping for a drink in the East Village. Next time, we may try the route via bike.

Where to eat and sleep

West of the river, casual drink and dining options include Exile Brewing Co.(1-515-883-2337; exilebrewing.com) and Americana Restaurant (1-515-283-1212; americanadsm.com). East-of-the-river options include the Republic on Grand (1-515-518-6070; therepublic ongrand.com) atop the six-story AC Hotel (1-515-343-6026), with an open-air bar serving brew, bites and city views. Also convenient to the Art Route is the new Hilton Des Moines Downtown(1-515-241-1456).

More information

Greater Des Moines Convention & Visitors Bureau: 1-800-451-2625; catchdesmoines.com.

Betsy Rubiner, a Des Moines-based travel writer, writes the travel blog Take Betsy With You.

 

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May 29, 2018 · 8:27 pm

Mineral Point and Potosi, WI; Eagle Point Park in Dubuque

Potosi, WIIt was still too blazing hot to ride bikes or even hike on Memorial Day so we drove backroads from our lovely airbnb in Mount Horeb through southwest Wisconsin into Dubuque. We arrived in the pretty town of Mineral Point, WI just in time to catch the annual Memorial Day parade marching down High Street, which is lined with beautifully preserved old stone buildings.  Classic Americana.

Mineral Point looked different from when I last visited (about 9 years ago) in part because we went to Cornwall, England last summer — Mineral Point claims to be the most Cornish town in the U.S. — and because the town seems to have spruced up and is now full of more galleries, vintage shops and newcomers (a new shopkeeper said the latest residents include people from Palm Springs, CA and South Africa).  We ended up doing some shopping — at the new shopkeeper’s furniture/housegoods shop (The Board Shoppe) and at a Main Street store that sells “rescued home good from the early 1900s to the 1960s” (Retromantic Emporium).

We drove on to the Mississippi river town of  Potosi, WI (the shopkeeper suggested) which has a popular National Brewery Museum that we didn’t visit but a lot of bikers did. The rest of the town looked pretty worn. We drove  to a lowlying area/boat launch on the Mississippi that is famous for birding. It was very windy. Felt like we were almost in the river.  From there we drove along the Great River Road briefly until crossing over the bridge to Dubuque where we picnicked at Eagle Point State Park — high on a bluff overlooking Dam and Lock #11. Very dramatic scenery and we couldn’t remember if we’d been there before. We also marveled at the Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired park shelters — lots of cool old stone and wood buildings.

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May 29, 2018 · 8:13 pm

Sjolinds, Driftless Historium, Military Ridge State Trail biking, Grumpy troll, Blue Mounds, Stewart Lake, Marcine’s — in and around Mt. Horeb, WI

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Stone House airbnb Mt. Horeb

Playing catch up.  On Sunday, we met our friend Jane for breakfast at Sjolinds (“shoe” linds)  in downtown Mount Horeb – cheerful Scandinavia fare (tried the Scandinavian fruit soup, bit too gelatinous for me and certainly for Dirck). We got a sneak peak at the very impressive Driftless Historium, a new local history museum (that I’m writing a story about) and then attempted to ride bikes in 94 degree heat on the Military Ridge State Trail. The trail is packed dirt and stone but really lovely. But the heat kept us from going far. We went a few miles east, which was all downhill (we barely peddled) but, of course, uphill on the return; Then we went a few more miles west which was more level but less shady and closer to the highway.

Mount Horeb’s Grumpy Troll brewpub was packed with hot sweaty people like us — including several motorcyclists.  We ended up on the second floor, eating newly introduced nachos. Pleasant place. And cool temps! To really cool off, we went to the local swimming hole — Stewart Lake County Park — which reminded me a bit of Ithaca.  Small body of water, murky and warm on top, colder toward the bottom, lined with woods including the occasional white birch (my favorite). Across from the sandy beach, some kids took turns climbing up a sagging pine tree and jumping when they reached the top. Dangerous but looked like fun. We drove to nearby Blue Mounds and spotted people eating ice cream cones on the porch of the local convenience store so we joined them. (The one employee was very busy scooping cones and working the cash register.) Onto Blue Mound State Park where we climbed up a high old wooden observation tower (I got a splinter holding onto the railing) for a stupendous view of rolling green Wisconsin dairyland – with pristine red wood/stone foundation barns, century farms with white farmhouses, the occasional golden limestone house like the stunner we airbnbed in. As our friend Jane suggested, we drove from the park along Ryan Road (near Highway F) for more glorious views from high on a ridge. We also drove past  Campo Di Bella Winery which also offers farm-to-table meals and farm stays. Looks promising!

Dinner was classic townie – Marcine’s, a tavern in the small town of Mount Vernon, that Jane took us to. Fortunately we just missed the band (which could have been very loud) but sat at high top tables and drank beer and ate very good burgers. Place was packed.  Later, we finally could really enjoy the porch at our airbnb (cooler temps, fewer bugs), where we sat on a quiet night and chatted with our airbnb host Nina, a former professional juggler who does various jobs now (including helping out at the famous Bleu Mont Dairy in Blue Mounds).

 

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May 27, 2018 · 12:16 pm

Farmers market, State street brats, chocolate ice cream at the memorial union, Forequarter—Madison/ also Mount Horeb and Blue Mounds, WI

 

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Stone House airbnb Mt. Horeb

Busy day. On a hot, sunny morning, the farmers market around the state capital building in downtown Madison was packed with people all walking the same direction in a slow circle past asparagus, morels, spinach, cheeses, lots of cheese and bread. We picked up some famous bandaged cheddar at the Bleu Mont Dairy stand and met our Airbnb host there. (She was selling cheeses.) also bought some very solid 8 grain bread at cress spring bakery.

Onto the first place I tried a brat (I think) while visiting my sister who went to U of Wisconsin – State Street Brats. We shared a table on the patio with a nice retired couple who moved from Brooklyn to Madison 30 years ago. After window shopping on State, we walked to the union and ate rapidly melting ice cream bones on the busy patio overlooking the lake. The place was packed with visitors also eating brats and ice cream and looking out at the boaters and sunbathers. Suddenly it is summer.

 

Onto the pretty rural town of Mount Horeb, 30 miles west of Madison where we are staying in a remarkable 1860 stone farmhouse tucked into a lush green valley with horses grazing and a pristine red barn with a cupola in the distance. The house is so hidden from the road that we had to call the owner from a nearby Apple orchard. Our gps said we were there. But there was no house in sight. Turns out we had to drive down an even narrower gravel road, park by the pasture in the woods and walk a few seconds and there was the lovely two story limestone house, with cool contemporary touches – a wood deck and overhang, a copper colored wrought iron railing. Inside the house is fanciful and bohemian, filled with artwork, old photos, big brass horse adornments. Our room on the second floor landing is all Beatles, with aYellow submarine mural covering one wall and photos of John, Paul,George and Ringo on the other. Our host is a former professional juggler who used to perform with her former husband all over, including on Caribbean cruise ships. Than you Airbnb.

In cheerful Mount Horeb, we visited a few shops, most notably the Pop Place, with soda pop from all over (yes, Vernors from Detroit) and Artisan Woods, a gallery with work by 70 wood artists (beautiful inlaid wood paintings, cutting boards, nightlights, wood purses and wood earrings. Nearby, in Blue Mounds, we cooled off in a chilly and very cool Cave of the Mounds. Not too claustrophobia inducing except for a few very narrow low passages where we had to walk single file. And no bats. And awe-inspiring stalagmites and stalactites.

Dinner was at the small and superb Forequarter, which is almost hidden in a quiet residential neighborhood east of the capital, unnamed on the storefront awning. We sat at the bar and promptly received free glasses of sparkling wine, in hour of our 28th anniversary (I don’t remember mentioning this when I made the reservation online but must have.) We had house made charcuterie, some amazing crispy fried mushrooms, herb and ricotta dumplings in a broth with greens, mushrooms and aspagus, rhubarb sorbet with “parsnip crumble” and a very moist and solid lemon marmalade layer cake with lemon frosting and pink peppercorns. (we took most of this home).

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May 26, 2018 · 12:51 pm

Picnic in Steamboat Rock Iowa, Morning In Dubuque

Pretty morning after a big storm in Dubuque, Iowa. Our Airbnb is an old red brick row house in a gentrifying neighborhood downtown. Sitting on the second level wooden back deck, overlooking a narrow brick alley lined with other two story red brick houses and lots of trees, flawless blue sky where last night there were jagged shards and sometimes huge sheets of lightening, listening to the birds, the occasional passing train and cars, watching five Hispanic boys ride by in the alley on bikes, I am reminded of another river town ….Easton, Pennsylvania, except my grandma’s red brick row house was high on a hill and had a big open front porch where we used to sit for hours on old red and white wood rocking chairs.

Last night, during a pause in the storm, we drove under a double rainbow (really) past farm fields bathed in a surreal post-storm yellow light into the tiny north central Iowa town of Steamboat Rock, where we found a perfect picnic table in a small city park (wayside park) by the Iowa River, under an overhang of an old park building that shielded us from the rain still dripping off the trees and provided a lovely view from the glistening grassy river bank of birds dipping into the water. On to Wisconsin!

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