Here’s a story I wrote about Stockholm’s Sodermalm District!

Off the beaten path in Stockholm: the city’s best urban island

For an authentic Swedish experience, head to Stockholm’s Södermalm district. (Click here for more)

Amid a sea of Swedes watching the World Cup quarterfinal match, my friend Francine jumped up and down, cheering wildly when England scored the winning goal against Sweden. Disappointed locals — many wearing yellow Sweden jerseys, some with the national flag painted on their faces — watched her silently. Some seemed amused. Or curious.

So much for blending into the crowd.

We were in Stockholm’s Södermalm district, decidedly off the beaten tourist track, yet we were exposed as outsiders. Francine and her husband, Russ, are from London; my husband, Dirck, and I are from Des Moines. No one appeared to mind. Some even shook Francine’s hand and offered congratulations. One requested a photo with her.

Swedes, we learned that July day at a packed Södermalm bar, are tolerant, polite, avid fans and good sports.

For our first visit to Stockholm, we stayed in Södermalm primarily because it is not a major tourist hot spot. When I travel, I’m often torn between visiting the must-see sights and hanging out in real neighborhoods that offer glimpses of how life is lived. Södermalm, also known as “Söder,” proved to be a great home base to do both.

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Primo and Claws/Rockland, walk from Camden to Rockport, Belfast shopping

Rockport

We have eaten very well in Rockland at two very different places. Last night we went to the well known farm-to-table Restaurant Primo, run by chef Melissa Kelly. Very good thing we booked ahead because every room in the old house that the restaurant is located in was full of diners.

Children’s chapel

We soon found out why. I didn’t think I liked raw oysters until we mistakenly ordered them at Primo. Three were in a light sauce made with wild blueberries. Not sweet or heavy. The second three were fried in a crunchy corn meal (I think) batter, also delicious. We also had cheese-stuffed zucchini blossoms and two very different but equally delicious entrees – Saltimbocca

Dirck and chef

(pork pounded thin, cooked and served atop mashed potatoes and cooked greens in a delicious brown sauce) and seared local tuna served with two sauces, a green pesto and red sauce. (Red pepper?) Dessert was a float with espresso poured atop vanilla and chocolate gelato served with homemade light and sugared donuts. Too delicious. Excellent service, homey ambiance and we went to say hi to the chef in the kitchen (she’s a friend of Dirck’s sister, a Boston food writer.) Next time we will book a little earlier than 8 pm so we can tour the farm and gardens behind the restaurant in the day light.

Dinner tonight was totally different, at Claws, a popular (for good reason) lobster shack where we ordered at the window and got a goofy plastic lobster with our order number on it. We ate a tray full of seafood – lobster bisque, lobster roll, drunken mussels in a garlicky broth – all excellent and fresh tasting, eaten on a deck with picnic tables and portable heaters. And a lovely view of the harbor.

Rockport scenes

This morning, we followed our Airbnb hosts recommendation and drove to Latte Beach in Camden and then walked the back way to Rockport and back. Turned out to be six miles. Lovely scenery, walking on Bay View Road past gorgeous old and new mansions set on the water, then past an old farm with white-belted cattle and then to a pretty “children’s” open air chapel.

Belfast

Rockport was very quiet and pretty. After a picnic of Maine blue cheese and bread, we drove to Belfast and walked down the Main Street with old red brick buildings, popping into cute little shops. Very fun day.

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Road trip to Waterville – Colby college art museum, Lebanese cuisine, Johns ice cream, lost kitchen, driveby, wander around Camden town (not the London one) Long grain/Camden

I am glad it rained this morning because it led us to drive backroads through the wood about an hour west to Waterville where we thoroughly enjoyed the Colby College Art Museum, Maine’s largest art museum with a really nice collection of American art from flat folk art portraits to abstract Jackson Pollack, plus rooms full of giant portraits by Alex Katz (who lives in nearby Lincolnville, I happened to read last week in a New Yorker profile.)

It was fun to ride on narrow winding roads thru the wood past the occasional shingled farmhouse, organic farm stand, brightly painted hippie VW van, charming general store and world famous restaurant (The virtually hidden Lost Kitchen in the out-of-the-way village of Freedom, Me.)

Camden harbor

We also made sure to stop 15 miles south in the little town of Liberty, Me.  at John’s Ice cream, which was as good as we’d heard. Nearby, the fog and mist from the rain was rising above Lake George and the surrounding hills, making the place look like a Hudson River School painting or one like we saw at the Colby museum…

We ate a light lunch earlier at a tiny Lebanese place in downtown Waterville, a town with that quixotic feel of a faded factory town with a fancy private college. Back in Camden, we finally walked around the town which has lots of interesting shops and boutiques in well-tended old buildings. The harbor is full of boats, from small pleasure boats to tall schooners. We learned that our Airbnb hosts used to make their living taking tourists out into Penobscot Bay on their 50 foot sailboat (which they also sailed to the Caribbean). I am so glad we came to Camden in particular and mid coast Maine in general.

Dinner was at a superb Thai place in Camden called Long Grain. Imagine your typical Thai dishes, then think of  those dishes made with the best ingredients possible – the best meat, vegetables, homemade noodles, rice: that was what this place managed to do.

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Camden cottage, Rockport photography, Rockland harbor

Mystery solved. I think. The picturesque seaside town in Maine that was known for its photography program -that we stumbled upon some 35 years ago – appears to be Rockport. It definitely wasn’t Rockland, which is bigger. We had an easy drive up the coast from Boston. About 3.5 hours to Camden but we stopped en route, first in Freeport where we dodged the hordes of shoppers at LL Bean and a whole lot more and got a takeaway lamb deli sandwich at Bow Street Market (which our Maine transplant friend Lisa recommended) then onto Brunswick where we did a quick drive by Bowdoin College and a cool old building downtown that’s used as an arts center.

In Rockland, we parked near the harbor at a long breakwater with gorgeous views of the bay and a white sailboat out in the blue water. But it is made of slabs of granite with large deep gaps in between and after a short distance, I chickened out and we walked back. I am still a little shaky walking with my recovering broken arm and last thing I need is to fall. We took a lovely back way to Rockport where I had my ah ha! Moment and then another back road through the woods past gorgeous houses overlooking the water and fields with “white-belted” black cows (that have a white band around their middles). Downtown Camden looks charming — our Airbnb definitely is.

We found our host tending to spectacular dahlias (my favorite) in the little garden in front of our sweet one room wood cottage (the birds nest). Inside it’s decorated with nice little touches, a pretty quilt and curtains and little tasteful prints. I am sitting on a cushioned Glider on our red brick patio with table. It’s chilly but clear skies (for now) and I definitely need to get a sweater or sweatshirt. So happy to be here.

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Return to Somerville, tatte & blue bottle coffee/Harvard square, wedding at habitat wildlife sanctuary/Belmont and party bus to Lilypad in Cambridge 

Alex and RoseI think I found the triple decker house (#30?) I lived in for a year in the early 1980s in Somerville. Avon Street is only one block long but my memory is rusty. The street didn’t look much different than when I lived there. A mix of tarted up and faded houses.

Meeting Harris, age 2

Onto Harvard Square where we walked past Widener Library, where I used to do my freelance pieces, using a borrowed library card from a friend who was a real Harvard student. We stopped for coffee at the pristine Blue Bottle Cafe and a delicious tuna sandwich and flat bread at the very busy Tatte cafe/bakery.

Return to Somerville

Alex and Rose’s wedding was on the lovely landscaped grounds of the Habitat Wildlife Sanctuary near a swanky wooded residential area in Belmont. Old mansion, lovely patio and grounds. The weather held and the newlyweds are so happy and adorable. We piled into a bus with younger and older guests for an after party at lilypad, a small funky club in Cambridge’s Inman square. Great music by a DJ who was also a great dancer. I danced a little but was nervous about overdoing it with my still-recovering broken arm. Returned to the Homestead suites Hilton in Arlington around 1 am. Hotel was nice but a pricey $250 a night and hardly needed the living room with the fake fireplace (turned on with a light switch) that came with our bedroom. But it was convenient to the wedding and good to stay in the same place as other family members.

Harvard Yard

Now driving thru EZpass lane in  New Hampshire on I-95. We had to pay $59 for the pass from dollar rental because the unavoidable toll roads in Boston no longer accept any other payment, if you don’t have an EZ pass you don’t pay and you get fined…

Lilypad, Cambridge

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Taranta/Boston and O’Hare dining/Chicago 

I returned to the terrific peruvian/Italian restaurant in Boston’s north end last night for a happy occasion- our nephew Alex’s rehearsal dinner, a day before his wedding. The food was delicious – most noteably melt in your mouth steak in Skewers (even the Nebraskans in attendance – Alex’s bride is from Lincoln – were impressed) and a killer pisco sour ($16 splurge).

Our long wait to transfer planes in rainy Chicago was brightened by the nearness of our fav o’hare ding spot, torte, where we shared a spicy Cubano sandwich. I noticed one of the “local” food suppliers is kalona organic in Iowa. Also found an interesting looking vending machine option.

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Garden of Eden/Grassroots art – Lucas, Kansas

Here’s a story I wrote about the Grassroots art Capital of Kansas for the Minneapolis Star Tribune.

Midwest Traveler: Kansas boasts quirky ‘grass-roots art’ capital

Small-town Lucas attracts artists from way, way off the beaten path.

“Thanks for being interested,” he said. “I’ve got to go to work now.” Off he drove, onto the empty blacktop and into open ranch land.

It was a fitting start to my latest exploration in and around the town of Lucas, pop. about 400, the state’s capital of “grass-roots art.” Also known as “outsider art,” this is the creative outpouring of self-taught artists located far from the mainstream art world (geographically, commercially, aesthetically), using unconventional materials and techniques.

They are often retired farmers, mechanics, newspaper editors, funeral home directors (you name it) making stuff with whatever’s around — car bumpers, light bulbs, barbed wire, gum, horseshoes, tree trunks (you name it). Prolific (some might say compulsive), they might not call themselves artists or even seek viewers for their work, which is typically found on their property.

In Lucas, it all started with Samuel Perry “S.P.” Dinsmoor, an eccentric Civil War veteran, farmer and teacher who in the early 1900s, at age 64, began building a fantastical sculpture garden in the backyard of his cabin home, located on an otherwise ordinary small-town residential block — which is part of its charm and shock value. The sculpture garden took 22 years, 113 tons of cement and many tons of native rust-stained golden limestone.

Now known as the Garden of Eden and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it includes the unique cabin — also made by Dinsmoor, out of limestone “logs” — and the garden, with sculptures representing biblical figures (most notably Adam and Eve) and populist themes (most memorably, labor being crucified by the lawyer, doctor, preacher and banker).

A macabre highlight is the 40-foot ziggurat-shaped mausoleum that Dinsmoor built, also with limestone. Inside, as Dinsmoor wished, visitors on a tour can see what remains of his face — he died in 1932 at age 89 — through a glass-lidded coffin. Nearby, unseen, is his first wife. At age 81, Dinsmoor married his second wife — his 20-year-old housekeeper. They had two children.

Since Dinsmoor’s day, locals and transplants — including grass-roots artists and aficionados — have helped cement Lucas’ claim to fame. It now attracts more than 10,000 visitors a year. I’ve visited several times since the late 1980s and each time, I’ve found more to see in an area that still feels refreshingly off-the-beaten-path, making it a perfect outsider art outpost.

Post Rock Country

Returning this spring with my Kansas-born husband, eight years after our last visit, we found more art dotting the highways, near where the art was made, offering fresh views and insights.

In addition to Jim Dickerman’s metal and bones work found along Hwy. 14 (mile markers 181 and 182), California artist and retired dentist Fred Whitman’s facial portraits of local residents are carved into limestone posts along Hwy. 232 (mile markers 12 and 13, east side; 14 and 15, west side; and 16 and 17, east side).

In Lucas, along the sleepy, two-block downtown bordered by a water tower and a grain elevator, we found a spectacular public bathroom/art installation. Opened in 2012, “Bowl Plaza” is shaped like a giant toilet tank with a raised lid and adorned with mosaics made with repurposed bottles, license plates, pottery and more. (Don’t miss the toy cars in the men’s room.)

Joining several others on a guided tour of the Grassroots Art Center, opened in 1995, we marveled at painstaking work of Kansans, including Herman Divers’ full-size car made from vintage soda can pulltabs and John Woods’ elaborate collages made from toys, keys and even handguns found in the muck of a drained lake.

In the outdoor courtyard, an exhibit opened in 2002 showcases the region’s “post rock” limestone masonry. Lucas is Post Rock Country, where stone masons during the turn of the 20th century made fence posts — and many buildings — out of the limestone because the treeless prairie ruled out wooden posts.

As for the Garden of Eden, it looks better than ever, thanks to a major 2012 restoration of the garden and cabin supported by the Wisconsin-based Kohler Foundation. Sculptures once darkened by age are now cement-colored, with dabs of pink that even some tour guides didn’t know were there.

Getting there

From the Twin Cities, Lucas, Kan., is 672 miles southwest, via Interstates 35 and 70 to Exit 206 and Kansas Hwy. 232.

Other attractions

Florence Deeble Rock Garden/The Garden of Isis: The rock garden is the handiwork of a Lucas teacher, inspired by S.P. Dinsmoor to create her own backyard masterwork in the 1930s, using colored concrete to fashion “postcard scenes” from her travels. In 2002, Lucas artist Mri-Pilar transformed the 1906 Deeble House into a recycled art installation, lining the walls with foil, salvaged dolls and toy slinkys.

Roy and Clara Miller’s Park: Relocated beside the Garden of Eden, this mid-1900s creation is a miniature town built with rocks, minerals and shells by a local couple in their yard.

World’s Largest Collection of the World’s Smallest Versions of the World’s Largest Things: Artist Erika Nelson’s tiny versions of giant things — including Minnesota’s big lutefisk and ball of twine — are on view, by appointment, at 214 S. Main St. Text ahead of arrival (1-785-760-0826; worldslargest­things.com).

Post Rock Scenic Byway: This 18-mile stretch of Kansas Hwy. 232 connects the towns of Lucas and Wilson, running past Wilson Lake and Wilson State Park, with hiking and mountain bike trails, swimming beaches, boating and camping. Also drive Hwy. 18 east from Lucas to Lincoln and Hwy. 14 south from Lincoln to I-70. Take time to admire the imposing limestone buildings in windswept Lincoln and Wilson.

Where to eat and sleep

Brant’s Market on Main Street in Lucas has made bologna and sausages since 1922.

Garden View Lodge (1-785-658-6607; airbnb.com), across from the Garden of Eden, is run by a Garden tour guide and Dinsmoor descendant.

Midland Railroad Hotel (1-785-658-2284; midlandrailroadhotel.com) in Wilson was a film set for the 1973 movie “Paper Moon.” Open for dinner, the 1899 hotel’s Sample Room Tavern serves regional fare including chicken-fried steak.

More information

garden of Eden : 1-785-525-6395; garden-of-eden-lucas-kansas.com.

Grassroots Art Center1-785-525-6118; grassrootsart.net.

Betsy Rubiner, a Des Moines-based travel writer, writes the travel blog TakeBetsyWithYou.

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Filed under arts festival, Kansas, Uncategorized

Japanese style toilets in Peru, Illinois 

Sapp Brothers might not have the cheapest gas in Peru, Illinois but holy cow, it has the same toilets we grew to like in Japan. They spray water and blow air into your  private parts to clean and even blow dry. Never seen this  at a U.S. rest stop.

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Vegwater community Garden, Metropolis coffee – Chicago’s Edgewater neighborhood 

August is prime harvest season for the Peterson Garden Project, which has community gardens scattered across Chicago’s North Side. Fresh tomatoes grown in the small plot tended by our son-in-law Rocket in the Project’s Vegwater garden in the Edgewater neighborhood were a highlight of a late Sunday lunch that Emma whipped up for us.

Then we went over to check out the garden. The place is bursting with colorful veg and flowers, in over 100 small individually tended plots. Tomatoes, peppers, cubes, herbs, zinnias, gotta love seeing this in the heart of a big city.

We stopped for cold brew and oolong coconut iced tea and a killer brownie at Metropolis, near the Glendale El station before wandering over to Hollywood beach where we could see that the crazy stunt planes we watched on our drive into the city  along lake shore drive were done entertaining as part of the annual air and water show. Dinner was with wonderful aunt MAT at L. May, the ode to Midwestern supper clubs in Lincolnwoid. Excellent fish (trout with capers, grilled white fish and walleye), potatoes (twice-baked, garlic mashed) and bbq ribs. Great service and of course company.

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Filed under Chicago, Detroit, farmers market, Illinois, Michigan

Al-Ameer – dining in Dearborn 

If you want to eat middle eastern food in the Detroit area, why not go to the community with the largest Muslim population in the USA? Which is how we ended up at Al-Ameer in Dearborn, an area I have long wanted to explore.

Some of our party were skeptical but within minutes of sitting down in a booth inside the modern, diner-like restaurant we knew we had found a winner. It didn’t hurt that there was a plaque on the wall suggesting the place was a James beard foundation winner (not sure what for specifically).

The food was fantastic- best tabbouli  I’ve ever had. Very green, Just parsley and chopped tomatoes, no bulgar. Lots of lemon and I’m not sure what else. The babaganouj was also the best I’ve had (I usually don’t like it much). The hummus was rich and creamy, slight tang. Fresh little pita pockets. My dad’s entree was my favorite— sautéed chicken livers, which I’ve never seen at a middle eastern restaurant. Barbara’s garlic chicken shiskabob was also excellent. The service was quick and cheerful. Yes we were Jews in an Arab family restaurant but we felt welcome.

Other options from friend Sarah:  still think the Local places (grape leaves and pita cafe) have great food and on the more costly end, love Phoenicia. Hands down Best lamb chops, Best steamed cabbage, Best merguez, Best rice pudding and on and on. Eli’s is somewhere in between but like it there too

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Filed under Detroit, DINING, Michigan