We’ve cycled along the Des Moines River Trail from downtown at Mullets southeast to the Cownie Soccer fields but yesterday we discovered the trail has recently been extended about six more miles to Easter Lake and it’s a glorious ride that is surprisingly rural in parts (for a city trail). (Turns out this leg of the trail is named after an old friend and now city councilman Carl Voss!)
We passed a lush soybean field and rode through the woods along the river to Easter Park, which we’ve also spent little time at. The Park has a wonderful six-mile trail looping around it and through it with nice playgrounds, cool bridges (including a red covered bridge — shades of the Bridges of Madison County). We found a perfect picnic spot on one bring crossing the late — a stylish high-top circular table with two high-top metal seats, where we ate as a few canoeists paddle below us and some pimply teens goofed around and played Lynyrd Skynrd louder than we’d like but hey, it’s a public park.
Within walking distance of the trendy Los Angeles neighborhood of Los Feliz, this tiny park normally draws crowds for art classes and Friday wine tastings. But now visitors come for ambles around the landscape and architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s first and only L.A. opus, Hollyhock House, commissioned in the 1920s by oil heiress Aline Barnsdall. In 2019 the home and seven other Wright-designed buildings in the United States were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Step into history and nature on these surprising summertime strolls in Los Angeles, Chicago, and Washington, D.C.
IN A SPRING and summer of coronavirus lockdowns and travel slowdowns, our usual modes of escape—planes, trains, cruise ships—have become fraught with health, ethical, and even legal perils. Suddenly, flying to see relatives in Arizona or Amsterdam or hopping a train to New York City for the weekend have become major life choices instead of simple vacation whims. And many types of trips (cruises, vacations to Europe for Americans) aren’t even possible during this Summer of Corona.
It’s no wonder that people from Paris to Pittsburgh have turned to their own two feet—and places in their own backyards—to get out and see the world. In the U.S., depending on where you live, that might mean hiking in a nearby state park, running on a local beach, or just strolling through deserted downtowns.
Still, with so many people getting outdoors, many popular paths and parks are overrun. These writers, in three cities across America, found unusual, less-traveled places to walk. Here’s how they got out of the house—and out of their heads.
Steep, secret staircases in Los Angeles
An introvert, I welcomed the stillness of quarantine. Yet, after months of being homebound with my sweet-tempered cat in Long Beach, California, I missed the outdoors. Apparently, so did thousands of equally stir-crazy Angelenos who, once spring stay-at-home orders lifted, poured out onto beach paths and hiking trails.
It was hard to avoid crowds, but I had an ace up my sweatshirt sleeves. All over Los Angeles, cement or wood outdoor stairways are sandwiched between apartment complexes and tucked away in unassuming neighborhoods. Dating back to the 1920s and 1930s, these pedestrian byways were incorporated into new residential developments built around light-rail lines and trolley systems.
“The stairs were erected when the city started expanding into the hilly neighborhoods of Echo Park, Silver Lake, Mount Washington, and Highland Park,” says Charles Fleming, who wrote the book Secret Stairs: A Walking Guide to the Historic Staircases of Los Angeles. “People moving into the hills often didn’t have cars, so, they needed an efficient way to get down to the Pacific Electric Railway trolley system, the markets, and the schools.”
A man runs up a set of stairs in the Silver Lake neighborhood of Los Angeles.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JONATHAN ALCORN, ZUMA PRESS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
While the trolleys were dismantled in the ’40s and ’50s, the stairs remained. Fleming’s book documents more than 275 of them, each with distinct views and quirks. In hip Silver Lake, where street art flourishes, the Murray Stairway is painted to resemble piano keys and the Micheltorena Stairs bear rainbow stripes. Nearby, The Music Box Stairs and Three Stooges Stairs have silver-screen pasts: starring roles in Laurel and Hardy’s 1932 Music Box and the Stooges’ 1941 An Ache in Every Stake, respectively. Both movies feature the hijinks of delivering heavy objects—a piano and blocks of ice—up the outlandishly steep steps.
One morning during quarantine, I headed to one of the oldest—and most challenging—set of stairs in the city. The view from the bottom of the Eldred Street Stairs alarmed me with its 33.3 grade, which rises and dips like a roller-coaster track. Located in Los Angeles’s Mount Washington neighborhood, it’s the steepest street in California, beating San Francisco’s famed Filbert Street by 1.8 percent.
I took a deep breath and started climbing, my movements comically slow as I steadily gained 219 feet in elevation during the short 0.1-mile hike to the top. Sweat trickled down my forehead, and I had to take frequent breaks to catch my breath. I spied 1920s Craftsman bungalows, preposterously built along the hill. How did early inhabitants drive up to their garages, presumably in Model Ts? The street felt nearly vertical.
The Baxter Stairs cross through the Echo Park neighborhood in Los Angeles.
PHOTOGRAPH BY RACHEL NG
The journey was likely even more arduous for residents on Cross Avenue, who had to scale an additional 196 steps up a wooden staircase past the peak of Eldred Street to get home. At the bottom of the Eldred Stairs, legs quivering, I considered turning back. But the mystery of the foliage-shrouded climb ahead beckoned.
Ascending the deserted stairs felt like stepping into the past. I imagined some silent film hero tipping his straw boater hat as I passed. But I was alone, joined only by Monarch butterflies and playful sparrows who darted among the blue morning glories and overgrown weeds peeking through the stair railings.
I finally reached the top, popping out onto a narrow residential street with a scenic overlook. I soaked in the cool breeze, plus spectacular views of craggy Mount Baldy and the San Gabriel Mountains. I was done for the day, but that first outing inspired me to conquer other climbs: the Mattachine Steps in Silver Lake, dedicated to Harry Hay, founder of the Mattachine Society, one of the earliest LGBTQ rights group in the U.S. Next on my list: an Echo Park trek that leads to Angelino Heights, a late 19th-century neighborhood dotted with Victorian and Queen Anne mansions that seem popped out of a storybook.
During the pandemic, I’ve dreamt of time traveling to life after the crisis or to the glorious before times. Venturing up these old stairways is, in a way, like journeying into a bygone Los Angeles. It’s been just the escape I needed. —Rachel Ng
Down by the river in Chicago
Ordinarily, the glassy expanse of Chicago’s Lake Michigan attracts both photo ops and crowds of people who walk, bike, run, or sun themselves along the shore. But when this spring’s COVID-19 shutdowns closed the lakefront, I found a different watery escape: strolling the connected parks and paths along the North Branch of the Chicago River.
The multi-forked, 156-mile river winds from Lake Michigan through a series of other waterways that finally connect with the Mississippi River. Historically, the Chicago River has been a route for both indigenous people and European settlers, allowing Chicago to flourish as a major industrial city. But for me, during this pandemic, trails along the river have transformed into a secret world where I can get my nose out of my phone and into nature. Well, at least for a couple of miles a couple of times a week.
Measuring 1,000 feet long, the new Riverview Bridge on the North Branch of the Chicago River is the longest pedestrian bridge over water in the city.
PHOTOGRAPH BY TODD BANNOR, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
All it takes to get to my hideaway? A quick turn into what I think of as my personal portal: a cut in the railing of the Belmont Avenue Bridge near my home in the Avondale neighborhood. Just west of Western Avenue, I leave the busy road and zigzag down a concrete ramp to the meandering asphalt trail along the river.
The murky green water to my left, I walk through a thicket of trees and step inside a corner of Richard Clark Park called The Garden. Even during the pandemic, this hidden dirt-bike park was semi full of excited kids whooping and whipping their wheels over multiple mounds of soil, twisting and turning in an exhilarating escape from confinement. My 12-year-old nephew was often among them.
In the Garden, happy screams echo through the trees, a diversion from my doomscrolling on Twitter before I continue on my walks. And the land the bikes roll on has a long history of fun: it’s the site of the former Riverview Park. The legendary amusement park operated wooden roller coasters and toboggan rides from 1904 to 1967 under the slogan “laugh your troubles away.”
As I walk north on the trail, a contemporary grey stone building rises like a series of undulating waves. It’s the WMS Boathouse, designed by local architectural star Jeanne Gang, opened in 2013 as part of the city’s ongoing efforts to revitalize the riverfront. Gang used her trademark crisp engineering and green infrastructure elements (rain gardens, porous concrete that helps store and filter river water) to make a structure that’s both a design and environmental win.
RELATED: GARDEN CEMETERIES WERE AMONG AMERICA’S FIRST URBAN PARKS
1/10
VIEW SLIDESHOW
GREEN-WOOD, NEW YORK CITY
Founded in 1838 as one of America’s first garden cemeteries, Green-Wood later inspired the creation of Central and Prospect Parks. In its early days, it was a major national tourist attraction
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY TODD HEISLER, THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX
SPRING GROVE CEMETERY, CINCINNATI
A recurrent cholera epidemic motivated the Cincinnati Horticultural Society to create Spring Grove Cemetery in 1844. Inspired by garden cemeteries both in Paris and along the East
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY MEDLEY OF PHOTOGRAPHY, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
EVERGREEN CEMETERY, PORTLAND (ME)
One of Portland’s largest publicly owned open spaces, the 239-acre Evergreen Cemetery is renowned for its wooded hiking trails and peaceful ponds. Points of interest include an Egyptian revival–style tomb, a mausoleum styled after a Greek temple, and an English Gothic revival chapel.
PHOTOGRAPH BY DANITA DELIMONT, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
LAUREL HILL CEMETERY, PHILADELPHIA
Fed up with the crowded state of Philadelphia’s church graveyards, a Quaker helped establish Laurel Hill on a former estate north of the city. With scenic views of the Schuylkill River and
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY LITTLE NY, GETTY IMAGES
MOUNTAIN VIEW CEMETERY, OAKLAND
Renowned landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted drew inspiration from Parisian monuments, English gardens, and American Transcendentalism when designing this 223-acre
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY DBIMAGES, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
BONAVENTURE CEMETERY, SAVANNAH
With its centuries-old gravestones tucked beneath live oaks dripping with Spanish moss, it’s no wonder Bonaventure is hailed as one of Savannah’s highlights. Made more famous by
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY TAYLOR GLENN, REDUX
CONGRESSIONAL CEMETERY, WASHINGTON, D.C.
Fifty years before Arlington National Cemetery was created, Congressional Cemetery became America’s first national burial ground. Situated in Capitol Hill, it was the chosen resting
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY DARREN S. HIGGINS, REDUX
HOLLYWOOD FOREVER CEMETERY, LOS ANGELES
Home to Hollywood luminaries including Judy Garland, Mickey Rooney, and Douglas Fairbanks, Hollywood Forever has been a cultural center in Los Angeles since its gates opened in
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY ALIZADA STUDIOS, GETTY IMAGES
GLENWOOD CEMETERY, HOUSTON
Designed around several ravines leading to Buffalo Bayou, Glenwood Cemetery offers a unique, rolling landscape in the midst of sprawling Houston. Though built in a rural section of the city in 1872, it now sits in the heart of Houston with impressive vistas of the skyline.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JON SHAPLEY, HOUSTON CHRONICLE/AP IMAGES
OAKLAND CEMETERY, ATLANTA
What began in 1850 as a modest, six-acre burial ground for the young town of Atlanta has grown into a 48-acre historical highlight in the city. Oakland fell into a period of disrepair in
… Read MorePHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE ALLEN, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
In other summers, I’d rent a canoe outside the boathouse, or peek inside at the rowers who train here. Though the building is quiet this year (rentals and programs are on hold for now), the structure’s serene, zigzaggy roof still soothes me, a reminder that tough times, like flowing water, eventually move on.
Just beyond, my running shoes hit Riverview Bridge, a new concrete path that gently climbs 18 feet above the river. The slither of concrete with rusty steel tooth-like railings is popular with runners and bikers. Me, I slow down to a saunter high above the water, surveying the tops of surrounding trees, imagining I’m far from home before I turn around.
The bridge connects to an old path in California Park, where it ends. For now, at least. Work is underway for more legs of what urban planners aim to make one contiguous river trail. In these long, repetitive days, even small developments—like an extension of my secret world—feel like hope. —Kate Silver
Graveyard rambles in Washington, D.C.
During the pandemic, I‘ve been strolling amid hundreds of people, none of them wearing masks. But don’t COVID shame me: they’re all buried six feet under in historic Washington, D.C. cemeteries, so I’m not worried about social distancing.
My adopted hometown is famously rich in green spaces—Rock Creek Park, a ribbon of grass, trees, and water; the monument- and museum-studded National Mall. But during months of lockdown, my usual paths were jammed with runners and walkers, many unmasked and going about their sweaty, potentially germ-spreading business like it was 2019.
So my husband Callan and I retreated to cemeteries for walks that were often, well, deathly quiet. Our ambles started in March in Glenwood Cemetery, a still-active burial ground in the northeast quadrant of the city near Catholic University.
Built in 1859, the chapel at Oak Hill Cemetery in Washington, D.C.’s Georgetown neighborhood was designed by James Renwick Jr., also the architect of the Smithsonian Institute’s “Castle” on the National Mall.
PHOTOGRAPH BY B. CHRISTOPHER, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
We came seeking exercise and a look at the grave of Reginald Wycliffe Geare, an early 20th-century architect infamous locally for designing D.C.’s Knickerbocker Theatre. It collapsed in a blizzard in 1922, killing 98 people. Geare also drew up the plans for our 1920 townhouse, which seems to weather storms OK, so we wanted to pay tribute.
On laps around Glenwood’s rolling acerage, Callan and I discovered more than Geare’s simple, flat stone. In spring, cotton candy-pink cherry blossoms backdropped weathered, grouchy stone cherubs. On Memorial Day, we witnessed a funeral procession where brightly dressed mourners on motorcycles provided a bittersweet foil to the dark hearse they followed.
Each time we dropped by, greeted by a swarm of life-sized, trumpet-playing stone angels, we’d discover more evidence of life and death’s rich pageant: a clutch of early 20th-century Greek immigrants in a family plot; recent, silk flower-decked tombstones engraved with Ethiopian surnames, a sign of D.C.’s large immigrant population. And just last week, my genealogist husband discovered two distant relatives were interred there under an expansive elm, an Ancestry.com data point made real.
A weathered stone cherub tops a gravestone at Glenwood Cemetery in Washington, D.C.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JENNIFER BARGER, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
I cop to morbidly scanning headstones for 1918 or 1919 passings (Spanish flu?). But I mostly consider these strolls a pleasant revival of the 19th-century cemetery movement holding that graveyards should be like public parks, gathering places where well-dressed Victorian crowds held picnics, concerts, or even horse races.
“Back then, if you had distinguished out-of-town guests, you’d take them to see the gravesites of local worthies and show off the sculptures,” says Keith Eggener, a graveyard historian, architecture professor at the University of Oregon, and author of the book Cemeteries. “They became so popular, people started to lead tours of them and write guidebooks.”
Those boneyard guides would’ve had a lot to talk about at the Georgetown nabe’s shaded, creek-side Oak Hill Cemetery, which I turned to for one-on-one, six-feet-apart strolls with girlfriends as D.C. rolled from crisp spring to boggy, hot summer. Amid tombs dating back to the 1850s, the steep stone steps and winding paths worked out both my calves and sense of mortality.
Civil war officers, sea captains, and other notables are buried amid the towering oaks. Abraham Lincoln’s son Willie’s body was temporarily interred here in a cliffside masoleum in 1862, inspiring George Saunders’ recent graveyard novel, Lincoln in the Bardo. And legendary Washington Post editor Ben Bradlee’s remains are entombed here behind a metal sculpture of a tree.
One June day, as I turned to leave the graveyard, I saw a spotted baby deer peeking out from behind a grizzled Victorian gravestone, all bright eyes and shaky legs. The lush, secluded surroundings seemed to make Bambi—like me—feel very alive indeed. —Jennifer Barger
Los Angeles-based writer Rachel Ng hopes to be fit enough to walk the Great Wall of China someday. Follow her on Instagram.
Kate Silver is a Chicago-based travel, business, and health writer—and walking enthusiast. Follow her on Instagram.
If you discover that the airline’s refund is less than you paid for your ticket — as I did, specifically $68 less for my ticket, $50 less for my husband’s ticket – here are words to the wise: Call again and ask what’s up. I did and found out that the shortfall equaled the cost of choosing seats, which is deemed “an additional purchase.” It is also refundable but the refund must be done separately from the rest of the ticket. It’s not clear if an additional refund REQUEST is required, i.e. if I would have been refunded for this additional purchase had I NOT called the airline.
My advice: Call the airline (if you booked via the airline) and make your case. Don’t do via an emailed refund request. (My request was denied via the United website ) But when I called the airline, I was granted a refund surprisingly quickly.
More details: we bought direct tickets from United last April for an early September flight from Chicago to Paris for $450 each — knowing we might not be able to go due to the coronavirus situation – a situation we had no idea would get THIS BAD). We bought the tickets because they were ridiculously cheap, we had long-established plans (a house booked with friends in Burgundy, sigh) and we could cancel or change with no fee and get compensation, whether a credit or refund.
Our flights were soon changed by United from direct to connecting via Newark and our outbound flight leaving at 2 p.m. rather than the original 6 p.m. — both grounds, I thought, for a refund. (We also assume the flights will eventually be cancelled.) We prefer a refund rather than credit, which according to United must be used to book a new flight “within a year of the original ticket issue date.” I think that means we have to book the flight by April 2021 but we don’t have to fly by April 2021. Also I’m assuming we can fly anywhere and are not locked into our original destination. Regardless, we now question whether we’ll be able to fly at all next year – and if so, when. So just give us our money back, please! e
United’s “Cancel Bot” informed me I could ‘submit a request” for a refund if my flight “wasn’t rebooked within two hours of (the) original departure time.” But I learned that “submit a request” doesn’t automatically mean “receive a request.” Two weeks later, an email from the “refund desk” denied my submitted request. But when I called United ( 1-800-UNITED1 ), I barely had to make my case. The agent said I was eligible for a refund for the reasons I presented in the email request. Of course ,I’m sad we can’t go….but relieved to get the refund. We’ll go as soon as we can…and maybe even fly United, since it was reasonable, after all, about all this.
Sad to say goodbye to Door County but we enjoyed the pretty backroads-drive to Chicago, starting with County Road B from Egg Harbor to Sturgeon Bay (a tip from Torch, the name of the fish boil master in Ephraim.) As promised we passed by pretty dairy farms and big waterside mansions that we caught a fleeting glimpse of through the woods.
Kopp’s Custard, pandemic-style
Onto Algoma on Highway 42, another scenic alternative to the highway (43) that took us along the water and through small rural towns (Alaska, wi.). We also drove into Kohler, to see the famous American Inn Spa and the Kohler Design Center. Shortly after we took 43 to Milwaukee stopping at the famous Kopps Custard in Glendale, just off the highway, for excellent burgers, with grilled onions, and super rich butter pecan custard. We drove through the elegant suburbs north of downtown (Shorewood, Whitefish Bay) with streets lined with old gated brick mansions that reminded us of Evanston and a drive-by the distinctive Art museum designed by Santiago Calatrava.
In Chicago, we laid low, visiting family. We did ride our bikes along the lakeshore trail from Edgewater to Astor, which wasn’t as fun as it should be, thanks to too many bikes and walkers. I felt like the bike proctor, scolding various cyclists doing stupid things (reading their cellphones, riding two abreast, peddling furiously in tour de France mode.) We saw a bad accident — a crowd around a young kid laying on the pavement, someone else cradling his head. Sadly, I wasn’t surprising to see.
D. has a family call right now so I am sitting solo at a picnic table in the park overlooking the water in Sister Bay at 8 p.m. I wasn’t going to miss our last sunset, which turns out to be the major evening activity in Door County (and I don’t think it’s just a Covid-19 thing).
We had another spectacular day of weather, low 70s, sunshine, blue sky so we set off again on our bikes, this time driving them over to Bailey’s Harbor where we set off on County RoadD from the parking lot of the Ridges Sanctuary. We had an easy flat ride on a largely un-trafficked road lined with trees and a smattering of cabins. We ended up taking an even prettier, narrower “rustic road” (a Door County designation that infers “beauty”) through the woods and along a bay to a clearing where we were met by a John Deere tractor rumbling through three feet of Lake Michigan water between the shore and Cana Island. The tractor was our unusual ride to the island, sitting in a wooden carriage pulled by the farm vehicle. That was a first. The island is tiny and home to an old lighthouse and former living quarters for the lighthouse keeper. Lovely spot even if we couldn’t climb the tower due to the coronavirus.
We drove south to whitefish dunes state park but left when we discovered it cost $38 to park our car and enter. The adjacent caves county park is free but it located high on bluffs, with daredevil kids jumping from them. Fun to watch (reminded us of similar scenes along Lake Superior north of Duluth) but not my thing, now or ever ,so we happily returned to our now-favorite beach, Pebble Beach in Little Sister Bay. Hated to leave that perfect blue green water and even fell asleep atop the beach’s hot flat stones.
Little Sister bay and Baileys Harbor, maybe Ephraim, are my picks for places to stay next summer with our kids. (The Inn at Little Sister Bay looks promising.) Here’s hoping. Loved this much-needed get away. Hoping next time we won’t all be wearing masks and social distancing. Or worrying about sickness and death and the economic gloom and racial justice and a crazy disaster of a president.
So glad we ditched our car and brought our bikes to Washington Island. There’s not much to see as far as attractions (a lavender farm, a fiber craft center, Schoolhouse Beach, a large white-pebbled beach) but the appeal is the isolated island feel, perfectly captured on a bike whizzing along largely flat empty well-paved roads with sun streaming through the forest and occasional glimpses of the shimmering blue lake. We took the Island Crossing ferry driven by a weather-worn guy named Charlie who also makes some mean smoked whitefish, which I bought at his smokehouse next to the ferry. This ferry is passenger only, bikes travel free, so preferable to the other ferry which takes cars and charges for bikes. It was an easy and pleasant 30-minute ride, during which we learned about far more terrifying ship passages that ended as shipwrecks. (This once-hazardous passageway was dubbed Devil’s Door — hence the name Door County.) Unfortunately several places to eat were closed on the Island because it was a Wednesday (so no Jackson Harbor Soup) and there’s a pandemic (so limited offerings at Island Cafe and Bakery.) We found decent sandwiches at the lavender farm and lavender flavored chocolate-covered caramels.
Couldn’t resist taking a photo of the restaurant sign below on Washington Island to share with the two young lawyers in our family…apparently lawyers is also a type of fish.
At night we explored Egg Harbor and didn’t find much there beyond the pretty Harbor Park so we returned to livelier (but still quiet) Fish Creek, where we enjoyed the vivid remnants of the sunset there at a park near the famous and lovely White Gull Inn.
(July 2020) We did a triathlon of sorts at Peninsula State Park, a huge chunk of gorgeous land jutting out into the blue waters of Green Bay. First we hiked the two-mile Eagle Trail, which was difficult as advertised in terms of having a lot of tree roots, rocks and mud to navigate but also stunning, with bits through the forest hugging the bay with giant rugged stone bluffs.
Then we rode bikes on the Sunset Trail about 9 miles which also took us through forest and along the coast. We skipped the beach since it was too crowded for a visit during a pandemic but we did have a picnic from a social distance and then found hidden Pebble Beach which may be our favorite place to swim yet here. It’s hidden in Little Sister Bay at the bottom of a curving road down from Highway 42 through the woods. It seemed a local hangout for very attractive young people. We sat on the area’s signature large white flat stones and swam in water that was shockingly green near the shore and then deep blue. So maybe this is why Green Bay is named Green Bay?
Wildwood Market
We finally got around to having ice cream at the famous Wilson’s in Ephraim, a cheerful red and white building from the early 1900’s. The mini tin roof sundae was excellent, eaten while sitting on a park bench across the street overlooking the harbor.
On the way back to our airbnb, we stopped at what looked like and was indeed a former migrant workers housing north of Sister Bay, a worn wooden very long version of a shotgun shack, tastefully transformed into an earthy farmers market called Door County Wildwood Market, which had good fruit and veg and beautifully dried flowers and pickled vegetables.
At night we went to a traditional Door County fish boil which turned out to be a lot of fun. Who knew that boiled whitefish, red-skinned potatoes and ordinary onions could taste so good but they did. Very fresh and simple, served with melted butter and a shaker of mixed spice. We had a primo seat on the front porch of the Old Post Office Cafe in Ephraim so we watched yet another spectacular sunset. Last stop was Fish Creek which turned out to be a lovely town. We have been visiting these places at night because we don’t have anything else to do and we don’t want to go during the day when there are more people. It’s a coronavirus thing.
(From July 2020…a special hello to one of my favorite readers: Hi Aunt Shelby! x0x)
Spectacular weather. We took a 10 mile round trip bike ride west and north of our Airbnb along lovely shaded Beach Road, lined with trees and driveways cut into the woods that lead down to huge homes with water views. Easy peddling onto Porcupine Road and then Ellison Bay Bluff, where we watched the sunset last night. This time the water looked completely different. dark blue water with crashing waves. We chanced upon a lovely old farm on Beach Road near highway 42 that turned out to be a gathering place for the local folks, with communal gardens, (pick your own free) and old dark wood barns and buildings and a contemporary gathering spot with a big demonstration kitchen.
In Ellison Bay, we stopped at Ellison Bay Pottery where I bought a rustic covered baking dish in Door County colors (blue, green, tan) and we peeked in at the folk arts school, The Clearing, across the street, which was intriguing. We also stopped at Turtle Ridge, an upmarket gallery/clothing shop with lots of cool handmade tooled leather goods. (I got a smock of sorts for $45, marked down from $179.)We also got some excellent cherry apple cider at Island orchard cider …no tastings, due to Covid. I like Ellison Bay a lot, more arty, laidback, rustic with good crafts and the amazing Wickman House restaurant.
Onto Europe Bay, a nice sandy beach, with more rocks than our nearby Sandy Bay beach and more people, plus biting flies. But beautiful. Europe Lake (not the same as Europe Bay) didn’t have a beach so we moved on, stopping in Gills Rock at Charlie’s Smokehouse for whitefish. We cooked in tonight…excellent brats from Waseda Farms, cherry pie from the famous Bea’s Ho-made. (Yes, that’s the name!)