About that Sufi sheikh I met in Istanbul…

About that sheikh I met in Istanbul – he was a Sufi Dervish (not exactly a whirling dervish but related, I think). Here’s some info I found when I googled him, including  a 1982 NYTimes story (It also refers to his followers’ mosque in Soho, which I visited. Wonder if it’s still there…).

The wikipedia entry even mentions his book store in Istanbul! And I found several photos  and an interview with him on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAyD9awfQjY. (The internet is an amazing thing…)

wikipedia

Muzaffer Ozak (1916 – February 12, 1985) was one of the head sheikhs of the HalvetiJerrahi order of Dervishes, a traditional muslim Sufi order (tarika) from Istanbul (Turkey). In western countries he is well known because of his visits to Europe and the United States of America where he celebrated public dhikrs (Remembrance of God; in Turkish “zikrullah”) with his dervishes. He is also well known in Turkey for his “ilahis,” religious Sufi hymns. The Halveti-Jerrahi Sufi Order is named for him. Ozak also ran a bookstore in the Sahaflar Çarşısı in Istanbul.

MUSIC: THE SUFI DERVISHES

By JOHN ROCKWELL
Published: April 28, 1982

ANNUALLY since 1978 the priests, chanters, musicians and dancers of the Sufi dervishes of the Halveti-Jerrahi order from Istanbul have presented their communal ceremony of the ”dhikr” at the Cathedral of St. John the Divine. So popular have these admission-free mystical Islamic cermonies become, and so magnetic seems the order’s leader, al-Hajj Sheikh Muzaffereddin Halveti al-Jerrahi, that a mosque for the order has been established in SoHo, reflecting the strong appeal that this particular sect has for the city’s artists.

This spring’s visit – another tour is planned for October – was confined to one local performance. Despite a rainy night, several hundred people turned up Monday at the cathedral, and their participation was so eager that one wondered if the spacious floor of the cathedral could have comfortably accommodated many more.

The dhikr lasted two hours. There was some 45 minutes of music – a chanted prelude, the formal entrance of the main body of the dervishes, then chanting by the sheikh and solo cantors with communal responses from the 40 male dervishes (24 women huddled subserviently at the side). Gradually the music built in intensity and evolved into dance, with instrumental and chanted accompaniment, and finally members of the audience were invited to join, too, forming concentric circles around the sheikh and the dervishes, everyone spinning and swaying and chanting.

For veterans of participatory art events of the 1960’s, all of this seemed familiar. But it must be remembered that the 60’s communalists were inspired by ceremonies of this sort, rather than the other way around. On a purely esthetic level, the echoic vastness of the cathedral made an impressive setting for the ceremony. But this was a ritual that transcended pure art, or more properly restored to art its functional links to the spiritual life of the ”artists” involved, which in turn may explain this order’s appeal to artists, shaken in their faith in their own usefulness.

Perhaps that restoration is more imagined than real: the dhikr is a ”ritual of remembrance,” ostensibly of God but maybe also of the lost power of art literally to transform souls. Looked at this way, through secularized Western eyes, it takes on an unintended poignance. But poignance, too, can be the stuff of meaningful art.

Leave a comment

Filed under Turkey

a few St. Louis ideas

A few St. Louis ideas, by request:

– The last two times I went, we spent most of our time around Wash U. and went to a Cardinals game.

– I went to the old garden district one very hot sweltering day for lunch.

– then there’s the arch of course. and a new-ish downtown sculpture garden near by.

–  The beer garden (Busch beer) we went to was at Grant’s Farm but doesn’t appear to be open until april: http://www.grantsfarm.com/TheBauernhof.htm

– fun fact re The Hill neighborhood (italian) in St. Louis (which I haven’t been to):
“It’s so crowded nobody goes there anymore.” This was said by Yogi Berra about Ruggeri’s (a Hill neighborhood restaurant) where he and Joe Garagiola had worked as waiters, which had become so popular that his old friends couldn’t get in anymore.

Leave a comment

Filed under Missouri, Uncategorized

A NYC restaurant that warms my Azkenazi heart!

When I used to work in a newsroom, once a year – right around Passover – I’d issue a blanket warning to my non-Jewish podmates: I will be eating something that looks really disgusting. But I like it – in small portions and only this time of year – so deal with it. It’s called (you guessed it) gefilte fish.

So news of a new restaurant in NYC, Kutsher’s, that makes its own gefilte fish automatically caught my attention (especially since I eat the non-homemade fish that’s packed in a jar, entombed in a grey-yellowish  jellied consume.) The NYTimes reviewer didn’t particularly like the restaurant’s gefilte fish but he gave a thumbs up to other eastern European Jewish favorites of mine like Kreplach soup and matzoh ball soup…so next time I’m in Tribeca (I was there last in September) I’ll try to find the restaurant – Kutsher’s (the owner is connected to the  famous faded Kutsher’s resort in the Catskills.) To see what I”m talking about check out:


Leave a comment

Filed under New York City

Austin suggestions

My stepdaughter is looking for suggestions for a trip to Austin, Tx. I only spent a day there a few years ago but here’s what I’ve got:

– the funky old Hotel San Jose – right across from The Continental, a great music club we did manage to visit during our 5 hours in Austin.  Another one of her hotels that sounds fun is the Hotel Saint Cecilia. This is all along South Congress, I think, which is a fun area.

–  one-of-a-kind bbq restaurant,  Kreuz market in Lockhart, Tx., aka the self-anointed BBQ capital of texas, (a short drive from Austin…but there are plenty of places in Austin too. http://www.kreuzmarket.com. You order the BBQ by the pound in a room so smokey it made my eyes burn, then take your brown paper-wrapped meat into a much less smokey room where you eat it – without sauce or a fork, as I recall. And you’re supposed to eat it with crackers (we chose bread) and red cherry pop.

– The original Whole Foods downtown. Supposed to be amazing.

Leave a comment

Filed under Texas

unexpected trip to dodge city kansas and the cowtown for steak.

We made an unexpected trip to western Kansas for my father-in-law’s funeral, sadly, and I haven’t made it out of the small town of Wright Kansas, where he lived, much. we did have dinner last night at “the Cowtown” – a popular steak house that didn’t disappoint (although next time I’ll have the t-bone instead of the nystrip and I’ll ask for it rare rather than rare/medium rare.) If only our father-in-law could have been with us – a man who sold and bought many a cow, he loved a good steak. And, of course, his family. We miss him.

I’ve left the house for a little fresh air today and may drive over to see the new casino that everyone is talking about here in Dodge. There’s also a vietnamese restaurant called Saigon Cafe that my niece tells me is good.

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Dodge City

2012 hot spots: Bocas del Toro and Dominican Republic’s Samana Pennisula

I was surprised to see two fairly obscure places we’ve visited on the NYTimes Travel sections list of 45 places to go in 2012. But I have to agree with them:

#1 was Panama including Panama City and Bocas del Toro. Lower down the list was  Las Terrenas, a village on the Samaná Peninsula, Dominican Republic (although no mention of the cool, low-key place where we stayed in 1990 or thereabouts: “The Hotel Tropic Banana” in Las Terrenas, which I gather from my googling is still there – although place seems more built up than when we visited.) 

Below are the details.

1. Panama
Go for the canal. Stay for everything else.

 It’s been 12 years since Panama regained control of its canal, and the country’s economy is booming. Cranes stalk the skyline of the capital, Panama City, where high-rises sprout one after the next and immigrants arrive daily from around the world. Among those who have landed en masse in recent years are American expatriates and investors, who have banked on Panamanian real estate by building hotels and buying retirement homes. The passage of the United States-Panama free trade agreement in October is expected to accelerate this international exchange of people and dollars (the countries use the same currency).

Among the notable development projects is the Panama Canal itself, which is in the early stages of a multibillion-dollar expansion. The project will widen and deepen the existing canal and add two locks, doubling the canal’s cargo capacity. For those who want to see the waterway as it was originally designed, now is the time. The expansion is expected to be completed by 2014, the canal’s 100-year anniversary.

Other high-profile projects include the construction of three firsts: The Panamera, the first Waldorf Astoria hotel in Latin America (set to open in June 2012); the Trump Ocean Club, the region’s tallest building, which opened last summer; and Frank Gehry’s first Latin American design, the BioMuseo, a natural history museum scheduled to open in early 2013. Even Panama City’s famously dilapidated historic quarter, Casco Viejo, has been transformed. The neighborhood, a tangle of narrow streets, centuries-old houses and neo-colonial government buildings, was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 1997 and is now a trendy arts district with galleries, coffeehouses, street musicians and some of the city’s most stylish restaurants and boutique hotels.

Across the isthmus, on Panama’s Caribbean coast, the Bocas del Toro archipelago has become a popular stop on the backpacker circuit, with snorkeling and zip lining by day and raucous night life after dark. FREDA MOON

2) Samaná Peninsula, Dominican Republic (although no mention of the cool, low-key place where we stayed in 1990 or thereabouts: “The Hotel Tropic Banana” in Las Terrenas.)


Unspoiled beaches, but not for long.

For years, the Samaná Peninsula on the northeast coast of the Dominican Republic was one of the Caribbean’s remaining natural holdouts, largely untouched because of its remote location. But an international airport, El Catey, built near the peninsula’s base a few years ago and, more recently, a highway that shortened the drive from Santo Domingo to two hours from five, are bringing new development.

Balcones del Atláantico, a RockResort that opened last May in the village of Las Terrenas, is the newest luxury resort on the peninsula. Its 86 two- and three-bedroom villas start at $500 a night, supplying a cushy base from which to explore ecotourism. The Peninsula House, a plantation-style estate with just six suites from $580 a night, was named a 2011 Grand Award winner by Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report. And Auberge Resort’s’ Casa Tropicalia , with 44 beachfront suites and an open-air spa on Samaná Bay, is to open in 2014.

There are plenty of off-resort attractions, too. Just last month, Bravaro Runners, an adventure tour operator, opened a new zip-line tour consisting of 20 platforms and 10 zip-lines.

Go now, before the crowds arrive. MICHELLE HIGGINS

Leave a comment

Filed under Dominican Republic, Panama, Uncategorized

Next likely travel adventure: Peru

When we were in Hawaii, a fellow traveler at a b&B asked us what are next trip would be? We told him, wherever our son studies abroad next year, most likely Chile. Now our son says he’s taking his semester abroad this fall – and wants to go to….Peru. So Peru it is.

Yet again, it’s a place I know little about so I’m starting to collect some string – including these bits  culled from VBT’s catalog of walking and biking tours:

– Itinerary: Fly to cusco/transfer to Sacred Valley/Oilantaytambo – Pisac Ruins/Moray Terrarces/Maras/Cuyuni Community/trek Machu Picchu, Cusco, Tambomachay/Puka Pukara/Sacsayhuaman…

– Machu Picchu view from the sun gate. stay at Inkaterra, trek Inca trail or ride Vistadome narrow gauge rail.

– Urubamba Valley

– Sacred Valley/Oilantaytambo (stay at Casa Andina PC Valle sagrado)

– Pisac

– Inca Trail

– Cusco – stay at Casa andina Private Collection Cuso

-Cuyuni market; Colonia Cusco, a UNESCO world Heritage Site, sampling chica (native corn beer) and Andean weaving.

– Lima – Ramada costa Del Sol Lima (day room)

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

southwest airlines comes to Des Moines!!

We interrupt this blog for an exciting long-awaited announcement: Southwest Airlines is coming to Des Moines. So reports Iowa Public Radio. Not many details yet – but Southwest recently purchased Air Tran, which flies from Des Moines to a few places. Now the trick will be getting Southwest to fly here, there and everywhere from Des Moines! And to fly relatively cheaply – in recent years we’ve found that it’s no longer the cheapest option when we’ve tried to fly Southwest from places like Chicago, Kansas City or Omaha.

Leave a comment

Filed under airfare, Des Moines

My first Burmese meal: in San Francisco

What does Burmese food taste like? Judging from the four dishes I had at a superb restaurant in San Francisco called, aptly, Burmese Superstar, it’s a little like Indian and Thai food at times, but at other times, like nothing else I’ve tasted. Which is why my San Francisco friends S and E were so eager to take me to this little but very popular low-key restaurant in the Richmond on Clement Street. (Another outpost is soon opening on Valencia Street – I’m assuming its the foodie neighborhood I was in earlier in the week in the Mission.) There’s also a Burmese Superstar in Oakland and in Alameda.

I loved everything we ate:

  • – Walnut Shrimp – the only non-Burmese dish we ate, I’m told. A lightly battered sweetish fried shrimp served with, yes roasted walnuts and sesame seeds.
  • – Tea Leaf salad – (as “featured on Food Network”) with greens, peanuts, fried garlic,  and what appeared to be fermented tea leaves in a sweetish vinaigrette
  • – A sautéed Eggplant dish (the one that reminded me of an Indian dish) (I’m not sure if it was the eggplant with garlic sauce or the eggplant with red curry sauce.)
  • – A dish with flat noodles, chicken and vegetables (the one that reminded me of a Thai dish). I think it was the dish called Nan Pia Dok*
    –  Coconut rice – jasmine rice made with coconut milk and topped with sautéed onions (again, Indian-esque.)

Leave a comment

Filed under San Francisco

Best of Hawaii – Big Island and Oahu

Woke up to snow on the ground, blowing snow, and cold temps here in Iowa. At least it was sunny. But made me think fondly about our recent trip to Hawaii and what we liked best:

Best Hawaiian specialty food: poke, Lau Lau (Pork Wrapped in Taro or Ti Leaves)  and malasadas.

(Worst Hawaiian specialty food): Loco Moco

Best Meal: Alan Wong’s (Honolulu); Allen’s Table (Waimea, Big Island); Side Street Inn (Honolulu); Char Sui House (Honolulu’s Chinatown)

Best Star Sighting: Elton John and entourage at Alan Wong’s!

Worst meal: Kilauea Lodge dinner (breakfast much better)

Best place for a drink: La Mariana sailing club

Best Beach: 69 Beach near Hapuna Beach on Kona side of big island; Hanauma Bay near Honolulu

Worst beach: wasn’t one

Best Tourist attraction: Doris Duke’s Shangra La (Honolulu)

Best national park/monument: National Volcano Park  and City of Refuge (big island)

Leave a comment

Filed under Hawaii