Tag Archives: st. louis

Cardinals, world chess museum, the Kingsbury diner, city foundry, St. Louis Art Museum — St. Louis

Cardinals fans

Not only did we contend with 95 degree weather during our visit to Busch Stadium. The Cardinals and Nationals game lasted 11 innings after they tied in the 9th and then in the 10th. So it was a long hot game, although this didn’t dampen the enthusiasm of our two Cardinals fans (Dirck and Noah). One of the better deals: a free shuttle bus to the stadium from Duke’s, a sports bar in Soulard. Other area bars also offer shuttles. All you do is buy a drink (and only 2 of the 4 of us did). The bus was ready and waiting after the game. Amen! We saved time, money, and aggro.

@ Soulard Airbnb

We wandered around City Foundry, a post-industrial entertainment complex with a food hall, retail shops and entertainment options. The highlight was Golden Gems, a women-owned gift shop with attitude.

Near the World Museum of Chess (home of the world’s largest chess piece), we had brunch at chess-themed Kingsbury Diner. Then onto the imposing and impressive St. Louis Art Museum, in an elegant building built for the famous 1904 World’s Fair. It sits high on a hill overlooking a huge reflecting pool/lake with fountains, and the city fanning out beyond it.

The first thing encountered as we walked in the main entrance: five enormous and spectacular floor-to-ceiling paintings by German painter Anselm Kiefer commissioned by the museum and installed in 2025, inspired by his visit to the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers here and the Rhine from his native land. Rivers flow into and become the sea, hence the name of the installation: Becoming the sea.

We spent time in American Art with familiar regionalism artists from this part of the world including Thomas Hart Benton (of Kansas City) and John Steuart Curry (he painted the famous murals in the Kansas state house in Topeka).

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Heat, Ted Drewes frozen custard, Gian-Tony’s, Beignets and gooey butter cake @Soulard Farmers Market, Bogart’s BBQ — St.Louis

The car weather gauge clocked in at 102 degrees as we drove into St. Louis, over the Mississippi and past the famous arch, reminding me of an earlier trip here with searing heat and humidity.

We’re staying in a beautifully renovated red brick building in historic Soulard, a tight neighborhood of streets lined with w/19th and early 20th century red brick buildings in various stages of restoration.

Central West End (Maryland & Euclid)

We stopped at the famous Ted Drewes along Route 66 for frozen custard (what else!), then has a very old fashioned Sicilian dinner (toasted ravioli, eggplant parm, lots of red sauce) on The Hill at Gian-Tony’s.

Bogarts

Today we walked up the street to the Soulard farmers market in the oppressive heat, trying to stay on the shady side of the red brick streets, where we had some beignets and bought another local delicacy, “gooey yellow butter cake.”

Lunch, Noah’s pick, was very good bbq at Bogart’s (in Soulard (owned by the same folks as Pappy’s BBQ) and pretty good ribs, burnt ends and brisket.

A Soulard street, with golf cart

We attempted to walk around the central west end neighborhood by Maryland and Euclid (home of the world chess hall for fame), past gated streets with elegant mansions (Pershing Street) near the green-tile domed basilica. We also drove down the even fancier Portland place, lined with huge mansions on enormous lots and gated shut at either end (we got in through a side street). Also drove around the beautiful homes adorning Lafayette square.

Soulard Farmers Market

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Great recommendations for next trip to St. Louis!!

My stepdaughter E had a great time recently in St. Louis. Here are her recommendations/impressions!

  • – a stay at the Renaissance, formerly the Statler, which is the oldest hotel in downtown St. Louis.
  • – Downtown St. Louis is beautiful with 200 year old buildings that looked like they haven’t been touched.  We walked into the train station, an Art Nouveau masterpiece, and I was astounded at how well it had been preserved.
  • – Drive around the Soulard,  the old French district.  It is extremely similar to New Orleans and in fact, we just missed the big Mardi Gras celebration going on this weekend.  Soulard has lots of cute blues and jazz bars.
  • – We went to a great Thai restaurant, The King and I in the Tower Grove neighborhood.  Grand in Tower Grove seems to have a long strip of ethnic restaurants, Ethopian, Middle Eastern, Korean, etc, all in a row.  After dinner we went to the Gelateria del Leone where they had homemade gelato and coffee. It was outstanding.
  •  -On Monday, we tried to go to a cafe in Lafayette Square, but unfortunately it was closed.  Lafeyette Square has big beautiful houses that are probably from around the late 19th century.
  • –  lunch at Pappy’s Smokehouse, in Midtown, near SLU, known for the brisket.  It was some solid BBQ, but the best thing was probably the fried corn on the cob.  It tasted like popcorn.
  • – We drove around the Central West End, near Forest Park, where private gated drives were filled with century old mansions.  We stopped in a mystery book store called the Big Sleep.
  • – We finished the day in a new trendy area called Cherokee.  We had some serious mochas ( a hot chocolate drink) at the Mudd Cafe on Cherokee street (the food looked really good too).  The  street was lined with vintage shops and serious taco stands that I definitely want to hit up when I go back.

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a few St. Louis ideas

A few St. Louis ideas, by request:

– The last two times I went, we spent most of our time around Wash U. and went to a Cardinals game.

– I went to the old garden district one very hot sweltering day for lunch.

– then there’s the arch of course. and a new-ish downtown sculpture garden near by.

–  The beer garden (Busch beer) we went to was at Grant’s Farm but doesn’t appear to be open until april: http://www.grantsfarm.com/TheBauernhof.htm

– fun fact re The Hill neighborhood (italian) in St. Louis (which I haven’t been to):
“It’s so crowded nobody goes there anymore.” This was said by Yogi Berra about Ruggeri’s (a Hill neighborhood restaurant) where he and Joe Garagiola had worked as waiters, which had become so popular that his old friends couldn’t get in anymore.

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