Great new bike trail, in-and-out burger, and tucson food tour

Had an action-packed first day in Tucson, riding bikes with my dad along a bike trail along the Rillito wash which now connects to another trail that ends at Trailways Road (or some such). We started in Oro Valley, just northwest of Tucson, in a trailhead at La Cholla and River Roads and rode north and then back – about 15 miles total. Midway, we stopped at the In-and-Out burger in Marana. Don’t eat that kind of fast food often but heard so much about it (it’s the burger of choice for Hollywood celebs) that had to try. Not bad – liked the grilled onions on the cheese burger and the special sauce. The fries were so-so. The ride takes you through some less than scenic industrial type landscapes and some suburban sprawl but also along a pretty creekbed and a landscaped golf course and of course in the distance are the mountains and the desert foliage. And that brilliant blue Arizona sky. So no complaints. And did I mention the weather was a perfect 80 degrees, with a slight breeze?

Also read today about a new foodie walking tour of downtown Tucson that starts at the Hotel Congress and stops at The Hub, Empire Pizza, El Charro, Monkey Burger, Maynards Kitchen, Bumsted’s and the Chocolate Iguana. Other than El Charro (an old favorite ) and Bumsteads (which I just heard about last night on the plane from a kid who’s a Tucson native) I haven’t heard of any of these places. Find out more from foodtourstucson.com or call 477-7986. (don’t know the area code).

 

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Clarksdale Mississippi – again

Clarksdale Mississippi gets a nod from me for the second day in a row, oddly, after I read this morning that a restaurant there bankrolled by the actor Morgan Freeman, who is a Clarksdale native,   is closing after ten years in operation. My meal there was about seven years ago,come to think of it, while I was doing a writing project in the Mississippi Delta and it was clear that Madidi, the restaurant which specialized in “Americanized French cuisine” (I remember it as Southern fine dining, with prices to match) would never break even in such an impoverished place. It was clearly a labor of love. Guess the cast and crew of “The Help,” which filmed in Clarksdale, also couldn’t save it from extinction. Last I heard Freeman does have another restaurant there – a popular blues bar, pool hall and restaurant called Ground Zero (see photos above).  He opened another branch in Memphis, where my son and I listened to a very good female singer a few years ago.

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Suggestions for a first visit to Tucson from a longtime visitor

My stepdaughter E is going to Tucson for the first time with her siblings, who know the place well, but I’d like to throw in my two cents as well about what to do and see there: (I’m only mentioning things your sibs may not mention.)

Sabino Canyon for classic gorgeous Sonoran scenery and easy hike/walk

Desert Museum – part zoo, part desert gardens, in mountains west of the city by Saguaro National Park (which is good hiking spot). You’ll feel like you’re driving through the set of a old western. (and there’s a famous old film studio nearby.)

Hiking:  A favorite (and easy) hike is at Catalina State Park –  right near my father’s house. There’s another one we’ve had trouble finding again ibut M&H report the trail head is just north of AJs fancy food market on Campbell and East Skyline Drive.

– downtown Tucson – Hotel Congress, great old rock n’ roll hotel with storied history, cool music venue (Club Congress where Thaddeus and his band have played) and fun cafe with great homemade cakes;  The historic district near El Charro (a favorite restaurant of the kids) downtown also worth a look – beautiful old homes.

–  M&H also report finding a new cheap Mexican restaurant – BK’s – downtown – which specializes on Sonora Hot Dogs and Carne Asada

Tohona Chul for lunch and stroll….

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ragbrai 2012 – the 40th great ride across Iowa!

It took me, um, over 20 years to muster up the energy to ride Ragbrai (the Regster’s Annual Great Ride Across Iowa) last year – and even then I did only one day. (And 37 of the days’ 56 miles.)  But what a glorious ride – even if it was sweltering. I loved the scenery, the scene, the camaraderie, the food, the entertainment, even the physical exertion.  I really had fun and wished I could do more. So maybe this summer, the 40th RAGBRAI, I’ll give it a shot (although we have family obligations in Kansas on July 28 – the last day of Ragbrai.)
Here are the overnight spots for the 2012 Ragbrai Route:
  • Sioux Center – Saturday, July 21
  • Cherokee – Sunday, July 22
  • Lake View – Monday, July 23
  • Webster City – Tuesday, July 24
  • Marshalltown – Wednesday, July 25
  • Cedar Rapids – Thursday, July 26
  • Anamosa – Friday, July 27
  • Clinton – Saturday, July 28

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Photos of highlights from our trip to The Big Island of Hawai’i

Fierce waves behind me in Laupahoehoe on the Hamakkua Coast. We learned about this tiny fishing village from a fellow guest at a B&B we stayed at earlier in the week in South Kona. With the strong winds and the crashing waves, it's not hard to imagine the deadly 1946 tsunami that struck at this very spot, killing many people including 23 children and four teachers. A memorial now stands where the school once was.

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Other highlights along Highway 6 east through Grinnell, Brooklyn and Homestead Iowa!

During our next road trip along Highway 6 in central Iowa, I must remember to  check out:

In Grinnell, Relish, an interesting-looking restaurant in a spruced up old Victorian house at 4th and Park.  Apparently it’s brand new and touts its “local foods, global flavors.”  Word has it you can find out the name of the farmer who raised the cow you’re eating… (During our visit last Saturday, we had very good coffee and cappuccino in town at Saints Rest coffee.  Near closing time at 5 p.m. the nice kid working behind the counter offered coffee on the house.)

In Brooklyn, (Iowa), the Brooklyn Pharmacy building – which appears to be a good antique shop – and SkyDive Iowa– an outfit just outside town with the catchy phone number 522-JUMP.

In Marengo, we found a new antique shop that was open at 6 p.m. on a Saturday night – it’s called Country Arts and Antiques and had some cool stuff including art by local farmers and an ancient leather steamer trunk.

We also drove along  the quaint main drag of the small village of Homestead, in the Amana Colonies, which had more tourist draws than I remembered from visits long ago, including an inn, b&b, cider mill and restaurant.

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Fabulous signs along Highway 6 in central Iowa (Grinnell, Brooklyn, Ladora…)

What struck me most as we drove east from Grinnell along Highway six through several  small Iowa towns  in central Iowa last Saturday was the remarkable collection of well-preserved old business signs, several neon, adorning store fronts. It felt like we were on the set of “Back to the Future.”  Below is one of my favorites in Brooklyn, Iowa. (You have to drive off the highway and go into town to see it.) It’s a wonderful old creme-colored tile building decorated with vintage letters that spell out: Service Standard Oil Products.

A highlight in Brooklyn, Iowa

Downtown Grinnell also is full of great old signs – the big bright red letters on the curved marquee of the restored Strand Theater which still shows movies; the blue neon sign outside the Danish Maid Bakery on 4th street (opened in 1945 and famous for its “creme-filled coneys”) ;  the glass tile blocks spelling out Grinnell, Iowa on the facade of  an old department store that is now a bike shop, Bikes to You on Broad Street; the plain old-fashioned lettering of the sign outside the local newspaper, the Herald-Register. There’s also an old 1930s brick gas station complete with the old pumps – that now houses a 1950’s style soda fountain called Candyland Station and serves $3 sundaes.  It’s at 831 West Street.  The most remarkable building of all is the famous Jewel-Box Bank, designed by Louis Sullivan.

Past Brooklyn, on two-lane Highway 6 we drove through Ladora, Iowa – and a sign for the amusingly named convenience store, the Ladora Stora. (Geddit?) and then the old neon sign for a garage “York and Sons” that looked like the garage in The Great Gatsby. Also appreciated the neon sign outside the Sudbury Court, lighting up the roadside motel on a dark winter night.

 

Betsy outside Brooklyn (iowa)

 

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off to grinnell and mount vernon iowa!

We are having the most unseasonably warm winter I can recall – which I know is ultimately not a good sign of our environmental health but it’s sure helping my mental health. So we’re off on a road trip, driving about an hour east to Grinnell College to see an exhibit by a guy who’s illustrating an “American Quran.” Afterwards, we’re driving about 45 minutes (I think) further east to Mount Vernon, a pretty little town that’s home to Cornell College and to one of our favorite restaurants in Iowa – the Lincoln Cafe. The cafe doesn’t take reservations – and it’s always busy on Saturday nights but one trick – which we’ll use – is to call at 5 p.m. and put our name on the waiting list.  The nearby winebar is closed for renovations – apparently it’s being spruced up for, among other things, live music.

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great way to find dance performances in chicago!

Whenever I’m contemplating a trip to Chicago, I always look ahead to see if  my two favorite dance companies there – Hubbard Street and the Joffrey – are performing. Short of that, I look to see if any visiting troupes will be in town the same time I’m there. Now I’ve founda  handy website that lists all the dance happenings in one spot! http://seechicagodance.com

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Great recommendations for next trip to St. Louis!!

My stepdaughter E had a great time recently in St. Louis. Here are her recommendations/impressions!

  • – a stay at the Renaissance, formerly the Statler, which is the oldest hotel in downtown St. Louis.
  • – Downtown St. Louis is beautiful with 200 year old buildings that looked like they haven’t been touched.  We walked into the train station, an Art Nouveau masterpiece, and I was astounded at how well it had been preserved.
  • – Drive around the Soulard,  the old French district.  It is extremely similar to New Orleans and in fact, we just missed the big Mardi Gras celebration going on this weekend.  Soulard has lots of cute blues and jazz bars.
  • – We went to a great Thai restaurant, The King and I in the Tower Grove neighborhood.  Grand in Tower Grove seems to have a long strip of ethnic restaurants, Ethopian, Middle Eastern, Korean, etc, all in a row.  After dinner we went to the Gelateria del Leone where they had homemade gelato and coffee. It was outstanding.
  •  -On Monday, we tried to go to a cafe in Lafayette Square, but unfortunately it was closed.  Lafeyette Square has big beautiful houses that are probably from around the late 19th century.
  • –  lunch at Pappy’s Smokehouse, in Midtown, near SLU, known for the brisket.  It was some solid BBQ, but the best thing was probably the fried corn on the cob.  It tasted like popcorn.
  • – We drove around the Central West End, near Forest Park, where private gated drives were filled with century old mansions.  We stopped in a mystery book store called the Big Sleep.
  • – We finished the day in a new trendy area called Cherokee.  We had some serious mochas ( a hot chocolate drink) at the Mudd Cafe on Cherokee street (the food looked really good too).  The  street was lined with vintage shops and serious taco stands that I definitely want to hit up when I go back.

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