Oregon greatest hits (from our 2010 trip there)

My sister-in-law and brother-in-law are going to Portland, Oregon and driving down to Sonoma, Ca. Don’t know their route but here are some greatest hits from our visit there two years ago. For more details, click on the “Portland” and “Oregon” categories on my blog:

Portland:

We stayed at Cafe Deluxe (fun, funky, reasonably priced).  Cafe Lucia is sister hotel, more centrally located, place where masseuse accused poor Al Gore of groping her awhile back. Or some such.

Columbia River Gorge: well worth the drive. Columbia River gorge, old observatory, Multnomah (sp?) Falls, crossing the bridge to Stevenson, WA.

Restaurants, starting with the best on down (all good): Pok Pok (strange Thai place – book way ahead); Kenny and Zuke’s deli; Clyde Commons, Portland Farmer’s Market.

Oregon coast:

Newport:  Sylvia Beach Hotel (homage to writers, quirky place) and Saffron Salmon (probably our best meal in Oregon and we wouldn’t have found it without strong recommendation from locals) Check out nearby Salishan Lodge and Yakina Head Lighthouse

Manzanita: pretty beach; stayed at good place

Cannon Beach: too manicured

Astoria: didn’t get there. next time!

Jacksonville: Rouge River Valley wine tasting, beautiful area near Medford

Ashland: Again near Medford – excellent Shakespeare, shopping, restaurants.

Crater Lake: gorgeous

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Edinburgh: “scottish hog roast rolls” (no haggis), Stockbridge, Portobello, Dean Village, Water of Leith

A storefront in Stockbridge

Friends are visiting Edinburgh this summer so here’s some finds, as requested, from my trip to Scotland in 2009:

–  My English pals and I  stayed with friends in their 1820 stone house  overlooking the sea in the pretty suburb of Portobello  – a town where Findlay’s butcher shop boasts that it has  world’s best haggis. We didn’t try it.

– Not far from the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle is a great take-away pork sandwich place called Oink (“delicious scottish hog roast  rolls”) that vegetarians will NOT enjoy since the pork is carved from a pig laid out in the front window. OINK is on Victoria Street in the old Grassmarket area http://www.grassmarket.net/grassmarkethistory.asp which is worth a wander.

–  There’s a  good pub, the Bailie, that we went to for lunch (good mussels in a whiskey/bacon sauce  and sticky toffee pudding) in an off-the-beaten track neighborhood with nice little boutiques and galleries called Stockbridge.

– From Stockbridge we stumbled upon a pretty country walkway along a small river  – right in the city – the Water of Leith that led to lovely old Dean Village and then to the Museum of Modern Art. (photo: Dean Village seen from the East side of the Water of Leith)

One of many Signposts

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Gathering string for our eventual trip to Peru – Lima, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Amazon!

Our son is studying in Peru this summer and fall so we’re gathering some string in plan for a trip to see him, perhaps in November. Below are suggestions from my  aunt in NYC who was there last December, my friend S. who went there on her honeymoon 12 years ago and some info from Fodor’s and other websites:

Lima – famous Peruvian restaurant ASTRID Y GASTON. This is the flagship restaurant of Peru’s most famous chefs – Gaston Acurio and Astrid Gutsche) Peruvian food is supposed to be among the world’s best. They offer a culinary tour of Peru that looks fantastic: http://taste-of-peru.com/culinary_programs/programs.php;

Frommer’s Review

Hidden discreetly behind a nonchalant facade (though one of an antique colonial house), on a busy side street leading to Parque Central, is this warm and chic modern colonial dining room and cozy bar. It continues to be my favorite restaurant in Peru. Gastón Acurio is the celebrity chef of the moment, with a burgeoning empire of fine-dining restaurants not only in Lima but also a handful of other cities on the continent (one opened in San Francisco in spring 2008) and a cooking show on TV. His signature restaurant in the capital is warm and elegant, with high white peaked ceilings and orange walls decorated with colorful modern art. In back is an open kitchen, where Gastón can be seen cooking with his staff, and a secluded wine-salon dining room. The place is sophisticated and hip but low-key, a description that could fit most of its clients, who all seem to be regulars. The menu might be called criollo-Mediterranean: Peruvian with a light touch. Try spicy roasted kid or the excellent fish called noble robado, served in miso sauce with crunchy oysters. The list of desserts — the work of Astrid, the other half of the husband-wife team — is nearly as long as the main course menu, and they are spectacular.

They are featured in the 2011 documentary about Peruvian food/chefs/farmers and the September gastronomic fair in Lima – Mistura: the power of food.

Mistura: The Power of Food Poster

– for Lima lodging: Second Home Peru in Barranco neighborhood looks like good place to stay, judging from Fodor’s. http://www.secondhomeperu.com/location-second-home-peru.html

Frommer’s Review

Lilian Delfín runs this extraordinary, and unique, small inn in the longtime, coast-hugging home of her father, the well-known Peruvian painter and sculptor Victor Delfín. The place is perfect for the relaxed and still slightly bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. This is no bland B&B; the idiosyncratic 1913 home is replete with artistic flavor — and multiple works by Delfín, who recently turned 80 and continues to paint every day (the artist’s studio and living quarters are apart from the main house, tumbling down the cliff). Though the house overlooks the ocean and the rooms are exceedingly spacious and elegant, the rambling two-story house — something like a Tudor-Craftsman — is probably not for everyone. But many, especially those interested in the arts or spending a few days in town, will find it a magical home away from home in Lima. To my mind, it’s one of the coolest and best-value places to stay in all of Peru. My large room had a beautiful wood floor and beams, a huge picture window framing the misty gray Pacific, deep claw-foot tub, and what felt like the most luxurious linens in Lima. If you ask politely, Lilian may take you to visit her father’s fascinating studio, where a giant puma-head fountain spouts water into the swimming pool (open to guests). But at a minimum, you’ll get to have breakfast at Delfín’s funky, Gaudí-style, neo-medieval kitchen.


Cusco – spend at least two days there, first night that arrive stay in Sacred Valley which is lower altitude (to avoid altitude sickness; My aunt stayed at  Sol and Luna Hotel and ate at Hacienda Huayoccari. Also visited the salt mines?

HACIENDA HUAYOCCARI
While a large part of this valuable cultural legacy is to be found at museums in the City of Cusco, the mansion today houses a vast collection of folk art, with pieces dating back to the seventeenth century. Colonial paintings, ceremonial goblets known as keros, pottery, porcelain, and Huamanga stone relics are just part of what you will discover during your visit. A blend of Spanish traditions with indigenous customs inherited since the dawn of time, this plantation manor is a perfect spot to sample life in the country, learn about typical locally harvested products and admire the colourful flora. This visit culminates with a superb meal prepared with fresh produce of the plantation. The current inhabitants of the house, the Lambarri-Orihuela family, will be your hosts

Hacienda Huayoccari ***

Urubamba Sacred Valley icon, Peru Luxury Tours, Peru luxury travel Homestay / Best available

There are two double bedrooms available in this lovely secluded Hacienda, built in the Fifties by one of the most prestigious families in Cuzco: landowners and art collectors. It is located 2km uphill from the main Cuzco Urubamba road, very near the village of Calca, approximately 1 hour drive from Cuzco.

Huayo Ccari is a private home. The price reflects the privilege of staying in a private home and not the hotel-type facilities of lodging in this category. It provides beautiful surroundings, amazing garden and views, antiques and folk art throughout and delicious food. Electricity goes out when the last person retires and there is no television or international direct dialing. Hot water and electricity 24 hours.

The house is lived-in by its owners and receives guests to private luncheons by appointment only. One of our favourite spots in Peru.

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They hired driver to get to ruins. Fantastic huge market in Cusco. Spend more time here than Macchu Picchu. They stayed at Hotel Monasterio in Cusco. (beautiful, pricey – gets high praise in fodor’s. Another option: La Casona. I like the idea of the Ninos Hotel – not only cheap but proceeds from our stay  at this “children’s hotel” provides medical and dental care, food, etc. for 250 disadvantaged chidlren who attend day care on the premises. Very popular. Need to reserve way ahead. http://www.ninoshotel.com

There’s also a Second Home Cusco: a a Bed and Breakfast located in the historic district of San Blas. Second Home Cusco offers 21St-century comfort in a Colonial house conveniently situated. Second Home Cusco features three junior suites, furnished in an eclectic style. Each Suite has a private bathroom, queen-sized –bed, cable TV, telephone and other amenities to ensure an enjoyable stay. A continental Breakfast is served each morning in the sunny patio.

We also have two sisters locations:
www.laposadadelabuelocusco.com
www.secondhomeperu.com
stay in Ollantaytambo/Cusco: www.elalbergue.com

Macchu Picchu – can do day trip, don’t need to stay overnight.It’s a lower altitude. My friend S. was in Aguas Calientes.

Amazon – Everyone seems to leave from  Iquitos, historic Amazon port city in northeastern corner of Peru.  from Lima spent three nights on a boat. limited hotels.(Fodor’s recomends three-day cruise to Pacaya Samiria Reserve.)

Here’s my friend S’s account: In the rainforest, took  a boat along the Amazon and then the River Napu to some jungle lodges.  We had our own guide there, hiking every day and enjoying really great meals. No hot water, outdoor showers, cots with mosquito netting, a great adventure . The highlight of the rainforest part of the trip was the ability to go up to the canopy on catwalks that ran from platform built around a tree to another. We were quite high, and the catwalks were quite scary  at first.  We launched our trip to the rainforest from Iquitos. At that time, you could only arrive by air or by boat (no roads into the place).

 

Lake Titicata – my cousins went there. lots of birds, big canyon. Aqua something. Fodor’s says the lake is the highest navigable lake in the world.

– My aunt  mentioned pills you can take three days in advance to ward off altitude sickness.

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Not quite as easy taking train back to Newark airport from manhattan

Not surprisingly, it was a little trickier finding the train back to Newark Airport from Manhattan because you have to figure out grubby subterranean Penn Station, which is one of my least favorite places in NYC (unlike the elegant airy Grand Central Station which is among my favorites.) When I got off the subway at 34th street and wandered into the station I had to figure out where the NJ Transit trains and then which ones go to the airport. I knew enough not to go to the LIRR (Long Island Railroad) which I’ve taken to the Hamptons many a time but wasn’t clear on whether my airport train was Amtrak or NJ Transit (fortunately I checked ahead on-line.) I ended up going to the ticket booth for NJ Transit to make sure I bought a ticket for the right train – then waited briefly with a clump of commuters staring at the departure screen to find out the gate for my train. It wasn’t that big a deal – once I found the right place to find the right train. There was no line at the ticket booth and the gate popped up quickly on the departure screen – it just wasn’t as obvious or easy as when you leave Newark Airport and take the internal airport monorail, the AirTrain, right to the station platform for the train to Manhattan. The trip including the subway from the upper upper west side took about 1.15 tops.  I also appreciated the announcement that airport passengers should NOT get off the train at the Newark Penn Station stop (which is one stop before the airport stop – and not to be confused with New York City’s Penn station.)  And one tip: hold onto your NJtransit ticket after the train ride when you arrive at the AirTrain, where you’re supposed to use it to get onto the AirTrain. (I couldn’t find mine but a nice guy at the tollbooth waved me through – and of course a few minutes later I did find the ticket  which I forgot I’d jammed in a pocket of my purse.)  I’d definitely fly into Newark again – especially given the fantastic direct flight from Des Moines.

 

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The Met’s Madame X, nearby Mad Men fav – William Greenberg Bakery (schnecken!) in NYC

What better place to spend a cold overcast day in New York City than the Metropolitan Museum of Art? I wasn’t the only one with this brilliant idea – the museum was packed last Tuesday, which is part of the fun of going to the museum (I spend as much time looking at the people as I do looking at the art.) I started in the revamped Arab Lands exhibit where I saw the new courtyard installed by artisans from the Middle East and admired the illustrated pages of the Qur’an, then just wandered through one exotic land after another thinking about my favorite book as a kid, From the Mixed Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler, by E.L. Konigsberg, where two kids ran away from home and lived in the Met, having a grand old time.  I ended up in the American wing – after a brief wander through the Modern Art area and the Medieval art area – and happily toured the historic rooms full of period decorative art from the Shakers through to Frank Lloyd Wright. I was particularly captivated this time by the Tiffany windows and blown glass bowls and vases. (Next time I’ll try to follow the tour in sequence so I can see the “progression” of style more clearly.)  Also enjoyed the room full of John Singer Sargent portraits including the one of the captivating  Madame X portrait. And I also happened upon Washington Crossing the Delaware.

Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau), 1883–84
John Singer Sargent (American, 1856–1925)
Oil on canvas

I ate a light lunch downstairs in the basement cafeteria, where I ended up talking with a woman from “rural” Long Island (Orient Point, which we passed through last summer when we took the ferry from Connecticut to Long Island) who “LOVES” Iowa and specifically Iowa City where she attended a U of Iowa Writers Workshop seminar.  (She even loved it after being evacuated from the campus – she was there during the horrific 2008 flood.)

After the museum, I wandered on Madison Avenue until I  found William Greenberg Desserts ( 1100 Madison Avenue.
btw 82nd and 83 Street ), a famous Jewish bakery with a delicacy from my childhood: schnecken, (featured in the photo above!) a sticky bun that’s sort of the Jewish version of a cinnamon role but crispier and with more cinnamon, pecans, and raisins. Fun Fact: on a recent episode of Mad Men,  Don’s new wife Megan gives Trudy a red tin full of Greenberg brownies as a hostess gift before an  awkward dinner party in Cos Cob. Trudy is most impressed!(“Our special sour cream yeast dough, rolled up with raisins, pecans, brown sugar and cinnamon. Our customers’ favorite for 50 years!” reports the handy Greenberg website where you can order gift tins – hint, hint family!) The bakery is also famous for its black and white cookies and rugalah.

Less impressive was the too-hard, too-expensive raisin and nut roll I picked up at E.A.T.

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The Beach Cafe- Don Antonio – French Roast – MOMA’s Cindy Sherman

Before the torrential downpour on Sunday, I went to brunch on the upper west side and brought bagels from my new favorite bagel shop in NYC, Absolute Bagels, which were a big hit with my relative – no easy feat.  Walked across Central Park in the drizzle, browsed through Peru guidebooks at Shakespeare and Co. books on Lexington and 69th before visiting my aunt. we went to dinner nearby at the Beach Cafe (69th and Second Avenue)- good spagbol and chicken pot pie, comfortable neighborhood spot. Tried to take a bus back to the upper west side but the nor’easter had begun and I was soaked and buffeted by the wind within 10 minutes so managed to find a cab. best $14 I’ve spent lately.

Monday, met my college friend C. for breakfast at French Roast on 85th and Broadway. Nice easy going place. good coffee and oatmeal. Then onto MOMA which was packed with people on a rainy Monday. Was glad I had gotten a tix in advance – there was a huge long line. I also see that there’s a slight discount if you buy the ticket online (maybe $22 vs. $25 per ticket). The Cindy Sherman show was fascinating – and enjoyed the Diego Rivera Murals exhibit. also really like the free audio tour.

Met my brother for a very good lunch at Don Antonio, a gourmet pizza place with reasonable prices and nice ambiance, on w. 50th near 8th Avenue. Then walked up Fifth – didn’t get the madhouse scene in front of Abercrombie and Fitch. I’m told people are standing in line to see the shirtless buff guys who wander around the store. I’ll pass.

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M4 bus – UNI QLO – Craft in NYC

Yesterday on a bright sunny day (again!) was baby shower day (the ostensible reason I came to NYC) so I took a very long but scenic bus ride on the M4 bus from 110th and Broadway east across the northern edge of Central Park, then south on Fifth Avenue, hugging the eastern edge of the park, then onto dense midtown where I got off at 34th and walked several blocks further east to 33rd and 1st for the shower. Afterwards, my sisters and I walked along 34th street, stopping at UNI QLO, the Japanese H&M I’m told, which had lots of casual cheap cotton and linen cloths and tons of trendy young shoppers. I bought two t-shirts for $19 each and therefore earned a free ticket to MOMA (which I was planning to go to anyway.) How’s that for a good deal – and an unusual promotion? The ticket is worth $25 so no small giveaway.

For dinner we went with my uncle to CRAFT, a restaurant I’ve long been curious about and enjoyed the scene and the food. We ate family style but instead of big bowls overflowing with pasta, we had very simply presented well seasoned but lightly prepared meats, fish, and vegetables. Highlights were the mushrooms, the steak, short ribs, green asparagus (I didn’t like the fruity sauce on the white asparagus) bok choy, artichoke hearts and for dessert – the little donuts that arrive warm and with two sauces to dunk in; cheese board, rhubarb strudel.  (No sign of Chef Tom from Top Chef.)  Probably is no wonder I woke up in the middle of the night with acid reflux.

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cafe habana, Tacombi, Zucco , Duane Street Patisserie – from soho to lower east side to tribeca in nyc

On another gorgeous day, I met my old friend M at Grand Central station where she arrived from Connecticut and we took off for five hours of walking and talking. Glorious. We started in Soho or near taking the #6 train to the Spring Street stop and from there somehow found our way past Lombardi’s pizza (have you noticed almost all of my visual landmarks are restaurants or food shops?) and a small outdoor crafts display (where I yet again bought a pair of earrings for one of my daughters) to Cafe Habana. We just missed rush hour and ordered at the counter, then ate outside on a red bench in the sunshine – cuban sandwich, grilled corn on the cob rolled in white stuff (queso?) and a jicama salad (too much food so M took the salad back to Connecticut.) A few doors down we spotted Tacombi, an airy garage with various stations serving tacos and beer – one station was an old VW bus selling tacos. Clever idea.

On the Lower East Side, we walked past the knish store on Houston, then quickly toured Russ and Daughters appetizers (just to look at the smoked fish, white fish salad and rugalah  so my pal M – who grew up in Forest Hills – could get a taste of home). We walked past a crowded tiny french diner called Zucco on Orchard Street that I’m listing here for future reference. Then we just kept walking through one vibrant neighborhood after another, tons of people walking around, sitting at outdoor cafes, the city never looked better. We passed through Chinatown, Little Italy, City Hall area (and before that a park full of Chinese people playing board games akin to checkers)while people gathered in a dense crowd around them watching intently. We ended up in Tribeca on Duane Street, which I finally found after several missteps – and we had cold drinks and two, only two, delicate chocolate-dipped leaf-shaped sugar cookies,  at the Duane Street Patisserie, popped into Lucca, the amazing furniture store, across the street, and at the little british store nearby (working class).  After  goodbye beers  at Cafe Centro on the east side of Grand Central, M left for home and I walked to have dinner with friends at a penthouse apartment on 1st and 33rd street across from NYU medical center with a beautiful view of the East River. Then back on the 34 bus to the #1 train to the opposite side of the city and the other river –  my friend’s apartment on Riverside drive overlooking the Hudson. Loved it all!

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Absolute Bagel-Rita’s frozen custard – Do Hwa korean food in NYC

I’ve been somewhat lost on the bagel front ever since H&M Bagels closed on the upper west side of NYC. But yesterday I stumbled into Absolute Bagels on Broadway near 107th street and was impressed with the bagels, not to mention the lox-cream cheese and bagel sandwich. So all  is not lost. A little further south as I was walking down Broadway on a spectacular spring day, I happened upon  Rita’s frozen custard – and since frozen custard something I rarely find these days, I bought a small cone. Yum. I walked all the way from 108th to Central Park (with a stop at Pinky’s for a splurge mani-pedi because my back was aching and I needed to rest for a bit) then back west to Lincoln Center where I took the #1 train to meet my brother and sister-in-law and her mother for dinner at an excellent Korean restaurant, Do Hwa, at 50  Carmine Street. Now I understand why they like Korean food! (we had very good bbq beef, bimimbob, a pancake with kimchi in it, and beignets, oddly, on the house.)

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Easton’s CarmelCorn Shop lives on!

My friend C. reports that the shop was closed at the time when she visited but otherwise remains in business! phew!

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