One more reason to visit Dubuque

Downtown Dubuque, Iowa, Oct 2008.

Dubuque has been high on my list for a return visit lately and here is one reason, (see below) mentioned by Lynn Hicks in the DMRegister yesterday. Last I heard, there wasn’t much in the Millwork District yet but that can and will change – certainly if Des Moines’ East Village is any indication. Dubuque has long been one of my favorite Iowa cities to visit – as I noted in my latest travel story on Iowa…for Delta Sky magazine, in which I recommended: the National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium; Fenelon Place Elevator, a funicular built by a banker in 1882 to travel from his office downtown to his house atop a bluff; The Redstone Inn, among several inns located in elegant Victorian mansions; the 170-year-old  Hotel Julien Dubuque, now a boutique hotel after a $30 million renovation; contemporary Main Street restaurants like L. May Eatery; and the   old school beer-and-burger joint, Paul’s Tavern, where stuffed  Big Game animal heads are mounted on the wall.

Here’s Lynn’s blurb:

Is Dubuque hipster heaven? MSN.com has named the city’s historic Millwork District one of 10 industrial neighborhoods that are becoming “hip hangouts.”

Other neighborhoods mentioned included the Warehouse District in Cleveland, Brooklyn’s Red Hook area, Manhattan’s Meatpacking District and Dogpatch in San Francisco.

MSN.com called the Millwork District “a work in progress.” The area was once the nation’s largest manufacturing district for windows and doors, the website said. It now has about a million square feet of vacant warehouse space. City leaders have tapped into federal and state money to develop a sustainable neighborhood, creating bicycle and pedestrian-friendly streets and attracting housing, art galleries and venues and community gardens.

One of the projects under way in the district is a $29 million rehabilitation of the CARADCO building, a 186,000-square-foot millwork factory that will contain 72 residential units, commercial and retail space and room for nonprofits and arts and culture initiatives.

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Nashville – the new “it” city. Who knew?

Can’t say that I knew Nashville was such a hip place when I signed on a few months ago to tag along when my husband goes there this weekend for a conference. But it did seem like an interesting place when I visited for a half day some 25 years ago and it seems like I’ve been reading a lot about it lately, in part due to the new TV show “Nashville.” But here comes the NYTimes pronoucing Nashville as the latest “it” city – following on the heels of Austin, Portland, Seattle etc. see below!

I also found a list of restaurant recommendations for East Nashville that I wish I’d seen earlier….(also see below)
One year in, still worth the weight.

BOLTON’S SPICY CHICKEN AND FISH 624 Main Street, (615) 254-8015.

THE CAT BIRD SEAT 1711 Division Street, thecatbirdseatrestaurant.com.

CITY HOUSE 1222 Fourth Avenue North, (615) 736-5838, cityhousenashville.com.

LAS PALETAS GOURMET POPSICLES 2905 12th Avenue South, (615) 386-2101.

MARGOT CAFé 1017 Woodland Street, (615) 227-4668, margotcafe.com.

MAS TACOS POR FAVOR 732 McFerrin Avenue, (615) 543-6271 myspace.,com/mastacos, @mastacos on Twitter.

NASHVILLE FARMERS’ MARKET 900 Rosa Parks Boulevard, (615) 880-2001, nashvillefarmersmarket.org, @nashfarmmarket on Twitter.

January 8, 2013

Nashville’s Latest Big Hit Could Be the City Itself

By

NASHVILLE — Portland knows the feeling. Austin had it once, too. So did Dallas. Even Las Vegas enjoyed a brief moment as the nation’s “it” city.

Now, it’s Nashville’s turn.

Here in a city once embarrassed by its Grand Ole Opry roots, a place that sat on the sidelines while its Southern sisters boomed economically, it is hard to find a resident who does not break into the goofy grin of the newly popular when the subject of Nashville’s status comes up.

Mayor Karl Dean, a Democrat in his second term, is the head cheerleader.

“It’s good to be Nashville right now,” he said during a recent tour of his favorite civic sites, the biggest of which is a publicly financed gamble: a new $623 million downtown convention center complex that is the one of the most expensive public projects in Tennessee history.

The city remains traditionally Southern in its sensibility, but it has taken on the luster of the current. On a Venn diagram, the place where conservative Christians and hipsters overlap would be today’s Nashville.

Flush with young new residents and alive with immigrants, tourists and music, the city made its way to the top of all kinds of lists in 2012.

A Gallup poll ranked it in the top five regions for job growth. A national entrepreneurs’ group called it one of the best places to begin a technology start-up. Critics admire its growing food scene. GQ magazine declared it simply “Nowville.”

And then there is the television show.”Nashville,”a song-filled ABC drama about two warring country divas, had its premiere in October with nine million viewers. It appears to be doing for the city of 610,000 people what the prime-time soap opera”Dallas”did for that Texas city in the ‘80s.

“You can’t buy that,” Mr. Dean said. “The city looks great in it.”

Different regions capture the nation’s fancy for different reasons. Sometimes, as with Silicon Valley, innovation and economic engines drive it. Other times, it’s a bold civic event, like the Olympics, or a cultural wave, like the way grunge music elevated Seattle.

Here in a fast-growing metropolitan region with more than 1.6 million people, the ingredients for Nashville’s rise are as much economic as they are cultural and, critics worry, could be as fleeting as its fame.

“People are too smug about how fortunate we are now,” said the Southern journalist John Egerton, 77, who has lived in Nashville since the 1970s.

“We ought to be paying more attention to how many people we have who are ill-fed and ill-housed and ill-educated,” he said.

Many will argue that the city’s schools need improvement, and although it remains more progressive on social issues than Tennessee as a whole, the city, with its largely white population, still struggles with a legacy of segregation and has had public battles over immigration and sexual orientation.From an economic standpoint, it has been a measured rise. When the housing boom hit the South, Nashville, long a sleepy capital city with a Bible Belt sensibility, did not reap the financial gains seen in cities like Atlanta, whose metropolitan region is more than three times its size.

But Nashville’s modest growth meant a softer fall and a quicker path out of recession. By July 2012, real estate closings were up 28 percent over the previous year. Unemployment in Davidson County, which includes Nashville, is about 5.7 percent, compared with 7.8 percent nationally, and job growth is predicted to rise by 18 percent in next five years, said Garrett Harper, vice president for research with the Nashville Chamber of Commerce.

He and others attribute Nashville’s stability and current economic health to a staid mix of employers in fields like health care management, religious publishing, car manufacturing and higher education, led by Vanderbilt University.

By some estimates, half of the nation’s health care plans are run by companies in the Nashville area.

“Health care is countercyclical,” Mr. Harper said. “It inoculates the city against a lot of the winds that blow.”

But the music industry is the bedrock of Nashville’s economy. In the past two decades, country music has grown into a national darling. The city has attracted musicians and producers whose work moves beyond the twang and heartache.

On a recent evening, Nashville’s once-seedy honky-tonk district was jammed with young hopefuls pulling guitars out of Hondas, a bus from “America’s Got Talent” and Aerosmith fans heading to the Bridgestone Arena.

It is not uncommon to see the power couple Keith Urban andNicole Kidmanshow up at a popular restaurant, or to pass Vince Gill on the street.

Music celebrities are attracted to a state with no income tax and a ready-made talent pool. But they also just like it.

Jennifer Nettles, of the country duo Sugarland, spent 17 years in Atlanta and has been dipping in and out of New York and Nashville for years. She recently bought a farm here, had a baby and is settling in with her husband, Justin Miller.

“Part of what is really attractive about Nashville right now is that it isn’t Atlanta, and I love Atlanta,” she said. “There’s a bit of charm and a richness a city the size of Nashville allows for.”

As if to underscore Nashville’s position in the nation’s musical hierarchy, the city hosted the annual Grammy nomination concert in December. It was the first time the show was not held in Los Angeles.

But to be a truly great city, some skeptics argue, it has to be a place that tends to its residents first and tourists second.

The city’s politicians are banking on the tourists. At the center of the plan is the Music City Center, a huge convention center whose main section is shaped like a giant guitar laid on its back.

It sits on 19 downtown acres and is attached to both the Country Music Hall of Fame and an 800-room, $270 million Omni Hotel, which is expected to open in the fall.

To pay for it all, the city offered generous tax breaks and based public financing on increased hotel and rental car fees and taxes. To lure the hotel, for example, the city discounted property taxes by more than 60 percent for 25 years.

The idea was to help the city land bigger conventions, like the National Rifle Association conference, which will bring 48,000 people to the city in 2015.

But using generous economic incentives and relying on conventions has been called an outdated economic strategy.

“This was probably a good idea in 1985. And probably a good idea in 1995, said Emily Evans, a member of the region’s Metropolitan Council. “But in 2012, the momentum for that kind of economic development has passed.”

She once called the convention center a “riverboat gamble.”

“In giving away your tax base for the purpose of expanding your tax base in the future,” Ms. Evans said, “you make it difficult to deliver on the fundamentals, the things that make your city livable, like parks and roads and schools.”

Mr. Dean, a former city lawyer who became mayor in 2007 and led the city’s recovery from historic floods in 2010, said the project, which got under way during the recession, has been a fight every step of the way.

“The gains for the city are real and tangible,” he said.

The mayor has orchestrated more than a dozen tax incentive deals over the past few years. Most recently, he arranged a $66 million incentive package to help the health care giant HCA Holdings move part of its Nashville operations to new midtown high-rise buildings.

He acknowledges that more needs to be done on transportation and education, but in the meantime, he, like most of Nashville’s residents, is enjoying its ride.

“I love the rhythm of this town and the pace of it and the tone of it,” said Mr. Egerton, the writer. “I think Nashville is a big unfinished song.”

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Bluebird Cafe in Nashville – saturday show sold out fast….but lots of other options!

By the time I remembered to try to reserve a table for this Saturday night’s shows (both the 6:30 and 9:30 p.m. shows)  at the Bluebird Cafe in Nashville (10:40 a.m. on the preceding Monday) the show was already sold out (reservations were accepted as of 8 a.m.). Wow – that was fast. Maybe we’ll try for Sunday or Monday – which don’t have advance tix sales from what I can tell. But other places sound like they have great music – and music that’s probably more my cup of tea (alt-country vs. country) including the 5 Spot in East Nashville. (Other options: Family Wash (alt-country),  Layla’s Blue Grass Inn or Wildhorse Saloon – for line dancing and lessons at 9:30 p.m.

I’m starting to develop a game plan for our visit: we arrive Saturday – and since that’s the one day my husband is conference-free, I figure we’ll do some of the famous country music sights, try to catch some live music Saturday night in East Nashville and eat at Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack (since that’s the only day it’s open that works for my husband’s schedule.) Not sure about dinner. There’s a few places with potential in East Nashville, including a vegetarian restaurant Wild Cow and Marche Artisan Foods. I had hoped to eat at a bunch of down home rib and/or fried chicken southern cooking spots but some are only open for lunch or are closed on Sunday/Monday. And one can only eat fried chicken so many times during one day (or one weekend). Sunday seems like the day to explore the shops and galleries in East Nashville, since they’re closed on Monday. (And I’m hoping to go to the gospel country music service at the Cowboy Church Sunday morning.) Then maybe dinner at the The Loveless Cafe (more fried chicken) or Monell’s (ditto)

Monday seems like the day to go on a tour of Belle Meade Plantation and it’s the only day I can have lunch at Arnold’s Country Kitchen (which is only open on weekdays for lunch). There are live music options Sunday and Monday nights at the 5 Spot (especially it’s Monday night “Movin’ Dance Party”) and the Bluebird Cafe….

This is the blurb to go with the photo above:

GQ Calls The 5 Spot’s Keep on Movin’ Dance Party ‘the Most Stylish Party in America’

Posted by on Mon, Mar 19, 2012 at 5:50 PM

Don’t adjust your monitors: The 5 Spot’s little old Monday night Keep on Movin’ Dance Party — a weekly soiree I once referred to as Nashville’s “Best Hipster Meat Market” — can be found gracing the pages of the April 2012 issue of GQ. A featured called “The GQ 100″ (billed on the cover as “your ultimate source for the best clothes, shops, trends and smart tips on how to pull it all together”) doesn’t appear to be online anywhere, but in the picture you see above, you’ll find that The 5 Spot’s parties landed at No. 92 on the list:

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Edzo’s Burgers in Evanston, IKEA and cheap gas in Schaumburg; bagels and deli in Skokie

A busy Saturday at Edzo's Burger Shop in Evanston, Illinois

A busy Saturday at Edzo’s Burger Shop in Evanston, Illinois

I didn’t get a chance to see much of Chicago last weekend during my visit there because I was busy helping my son, a junior at Northwestern, move into his first apartment in Evanston. Still,  my son and his friend and I finally made it to Edzo’s – the burger shop in downtown Evanston that lived up to my son’s rare reviews. There was a longish line when we arrived midday (Edzo’s is only open midday – from 10:30 a.m. t0 4 pm. Tuesday through Sunday) but it moved swiftly. I had a rare – yes rare! – 8 oz. Char Burger and it was juicy, fresh, charred on the outside, pink in the inside (in a way I can never manage to do on my own). The boys had the double griddled burger (I pick the charred because it’s the only one where you can really get a rare patty). We also shared a Mexican milk shake (which did indeed have a kick) and “Old fries” – extra brown, extra crunchy. The couple sitting next to us recommended getting the burger with the upgraded meat (not the grass-fed one but some other upscale locally-sourced meat).

Next stop: : IKEA, about a forty minute drive from Evanston, where we made it in-and-out of that cavernous, mobbed world-unto-itself in perhaps record time – an hour – with an SUV filled with a build-it-yourself bed frame and chest of drawers. We found gas for 20 cents less than Evanston nearby (and probably 40 cents less than downtown Chicago) so we filled up and headed back to Evanston on Dempster, which runs conveniently past Kaufman’s Deli, which reopened in a snazzy new building two months ago after a devastating fire a year ago. We picked up take-away dinner – extra lean corned  beef, a little chopped liver, some potato latkes, navy bean soup with big chunks of corned beef, and rugelah. (All hard to find in Des Moines, needless to say – although there is a Jewish deli here, Maccabees.) One more stop at the bagel shop a few blocks further east on Dempster (which also had bialys!) and we were done.  We did eat our first night in Chicago, near my aunt’s apartment, at Carmine’s – traditional Italian and surprisingly easy to find a table on a Friday night (granted it was about 6:15 p.m.)

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The secret to parking on Chicago’s gold coast

One of the downsides of my aunt’s otherwise fantastic gold coast neighborhood in downtown Chicago, the only downside actually, is that it is often hard to find a parking spot. So after a six hour drive from Iowa we can spend another hour driving around and around the same blocks trying to find a spot. Even with overnight parking restricted to cars that show a residents guest pass, the spots can be scarce. But not at 5 pm on a Friday, apparently…tonight there was one spot after another available, I am guessing because it was just before the 6 pm bewitching hour when only cars with passes can park. Good to know….

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2012 in review – Thank you to my most “active commenter”: Dad

Some strange stuff worth reading here – who knew I had readers in Afghanistan? (Although I could have guessed my most “active commenter” was….”Dad.”)  Thanks to one and all!
Happy 2013! Betsy

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2012 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

4,329 films were submitted to the 2012 Cannes Film Festival. This blog had 20,000 views in 2012. If each view were a film, this blog would power 5 Film Festivals

Click here to see the complete report.

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Dog stops on highway 54 east of dodge city, I-35 north of emporia

We found a good park to walk Ernie on highway 54 in Pratt, Kansas, the halfway point between dodge city and Wichita (roughly.) it’s called Zenger Park, a small patch of yellowed frozen grass with a classic wind whipped Kansas tree and some antiquated playground equipment and an empty concrete wading pool. perfect…

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And then of course there is the rest stop north of Emporia on Interstate 35 just past the Flint Hills…

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The welcoming committee in wright Kansas

The canine welcoming committee was waiting for Ernie, our vizsla, when we took our first walk in the small town of wright, Kansas where my husband grew up. Three dogs were waiting in a pack in the driveway as Ernie came out on her leash, pulling me behind her. Although Ernie seemed game, I wasn’t sure our city dog was ready to roam with these townie scruffs so we stared each other down for a few minutes until they appeared to lose interest and trotted off down the dirt road toward the church.

Today it was so cold and windy and snowy that I never made it out the door and Ernie took a few very brief walks with other attending adults. Back to Iowa tomorrow. Below is a photo of my other in law on her 89th birthday (Xmas eve) with some of her grandchildren….

<img src="https://betsyrubiner.blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/20121225-222121.jpg" alt="20121225-222121.jpg" class

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Nothing like a Kansas sunset/classic scenic overlook dodge city

We drove into a very dramatic sunset yesterday on highway 50 near Spearville and Wright Kansas, with a wide shelf of purple/pink clouds pierced by a bolt of bright blue, all looming above massive whirling turbines of a wind farm and the occasional grain elevator. today we had a clear cold morning and three neighborhood dogs were waiting right outside our door when I took Ernie out to walk. Word travels fast, apparently in a small town when there’s a new dog around. We didn’t trust our city dog to run wild with the neighborhood pack.

We did take in the view – and the pungent smell- at dodge city’s scenic overlook just east of town.

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Politically incorrect tank/good stops for dogs in Kansas

Found a good place to walk Ernie near paxico Kansas on interstate 70 west of Topeka in the flint hills (supposedly…doesn’t look much like the flint hills here. It’s a rest area with a strange concrete bunker -like structure built into a hill. There is a nice hilly stretch of land for a dog to do its business. None back on the road. We were not sure how Ernie would do hanging out in the car by herself so we ate in shifts at the chipotle in Topeka. If the weather was warmer we might have been able to sit with ernie on the outdoor patio. Are there any chain restaurants that permit dogs? I know this is Kansas not France but maybe there are.

And for those few of you driving further west, there is a dandy little rural park off highway 156/96 just before Great Bend, kansas where we had the good sense to stop and let Ernie out to stretch and, as fate would have it, throw up. One more hour in the car and then we are in…Wright, Kansas. our destination.

Hours later and we just had to stop with Ernie at one of highway 50’s highlights in the small town of Offerle…the tank in the local park, a memorial to Vietnam vets. With Santa aboard. And a politically incorrect name painted on the barrel. We are not in Iowa any more.

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