stoney Creek, Avelo into Tweed airport in New Haven, Luce Italian restaurant in Middletown – Connecticut with friends

Nell, Laurie and I took a walk in the mist under grey sky though the lovely seaside village of Stoney Creek, past the dock for the ferry to the Thimble Islands that I took years ago when our kids were very little with our Trumbull pals! Stoney Creek has beautiful homes on the water facing a winding two- Lane road.

After picking our friend Holley up at Hartford airport, we had a late lunch at a good Italian place in Middletown called Luce. Hartford airport is way bigger than New Haven’s Tweed which I flew into on Avelo airlines.

It was great flying to New Haven, only 20 minutes from Branford. But note to self: buy seat in future. I had the worst seat – last row, aisle. There were two very large people in my row so I had to shift in my seat to face the aisle and occasionally free my left arm from under my neighbors’s arm. Then no service or drinks, even water without requesting. And people lining up for the bathroom just behind us.

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Pawson Park, owenego beach club/Inn (1847), biking and kayaking – beautiful Branford, Connecticut

Glorious day biking, kayaking, hanging out with old friends from Des Moines and Ithaca. I’ve loved Connecticut since my mid-20s when I worked briefly at the Stamford Advocate (newspaper) in the mid-1980s. (I couldn’t afford to stay, professionally or financially.)

On a muggy morning, we biked around Pawson Park, a pretty, narrow peninsula between the Branford River and Long Island Sound, with the Thimble islands in the distance, with red cedar shingled cottages and bright purple hydrangeas in the foreground. Later, we kayaked in the still water, past large shoreline homes, large rocks in the water, the occasional motorboat, the occasional barge in the distant haze.

Dinner tonight was BLTs from The Shanty, a food truck, eaten overlooking the Sound and The Thimbles at the graceful Owenego Beach club, circa 1847, a lovely sprawling, white wooden building, with a lush green lawn leading down to gardens and a swimming area with white rafts in the seawater. It’s a refreshingly unpretentious and welcoming for a private club. Nonmembers welcome after 5 pm and the Inn offers sweet, affordable rooms for a short stay. see: https://www.google.com/gasearch?q=owenego&source=sh/x/gs/m2/5)

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Michigan Central Station, Avalon Bakery, Bon Bon Bon – Detroit

I was so excited to see the Michigan Central Train Station, once a ruin porn mainstay, newly restored as a hopeful sign. But when we arrived on a Monday morning it looked beautiful from the outside and was unavailable to see inside. Grrr. It’s only open Friday evening and on Saturday. Not as hopeful a sign as expected. No matter, we enjoyed driving downtown to see the latest. Still a mixed bag. Downtown looks great. But plenty of streets look worn out. We walked in the neighborhood around the train station and found Mexican village businesses, derelict buildings, some gentrified spots.

We stopped for lunch at Avalon Bakery near Wayne State, which is part of a block long strip of interesting shops off Cass including City Bird and Bon, Bon, Bon, a Hamtramck maker of complicated little confections.

Around the station

Avalon bakery and neighbors near Wayne State

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Perfect pit stop between Chicago and Detroit- Cravings in Kalamazoo

Thanks to a Chicago friend, formerly of Kalamazoo, Michigan, we had delicious Bahn mi sandwiches at an Asian restaurant and market just off I-94 in Kalamazoo/portage. The restaurant had poke, sushi, ramen, bubble tea and a lot more in a clean well-lit market with a great selection of Asian food. The place looked like a cross between an ethnic market and a high- end grocery store. We’ll be back.

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Freiburg-im-Breisgau —Germany

No, I haven’t made a quick trip to Germany but I was dismayed to discover no blogpost for my visit there a year ago so when I have time, I will try to reconstruct what I did there. I remember it was a very pretty university town in the Black Forest with a medieval square dominated by an enormous gloomy church.there was a great market in the square where I had bratwurst every day for lunch. The narrow streets were lined with tiny water channels and kids pulled little wood boats with a string through the water.

I stayed at a strange old hotel near the square, had obligatory Black Forest cake and a traditional Germany meal that, as usual, was way too heavy. The waitress sneezed and I said Gesundheit…and we both smiled. One of my few German words. I also walked in the drizzle up a steep hill in the park at the edge of town and looked out over the city.

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Italian Market, di Bruno brothers house of cheese, Fante kitchen, Angelo pizza and cheeses take, Bok building, tabachoy, Parc — south Philly

And then came summer. Or close. In the three days we’ve been here the temperature went from blustery 40s to balmy 70s. Today was perfect for a lot of walking south to the Italian market which is actually several blocks along 9th street lined with old food shops and fruit markets.

Italian market

We visited several including di Bruno Brothers house of cheese, whose large selection spanned cheese from Francine and Russ’s London (Neal’s yard) to Myra’s beloved finger lakes (Cayuga blue cheese from Lively Run creamery near Seneca Lake.)

Cheesesteak

We had gooey chewy meaty Philly cheese steaks at Angelo’s. I could eat only half of mine, which in of itself was enormous. We ate outside at a picnic table in an open lot provided by Di Bruno brothers.

Bok building view

The Bok building is an enormous former technical high school, art deco, turned into makers and artists studios and some shops, pricey sandals make out of old Kilims. That sort of thing. There’s a club at the top with an amazing deck overlooking the city. Dinner was Filipino at Tabachoy, which we all decided was a little too odd for our tastes. It makes me question again the NYTimes annual list of innovative restaurants. Maybe a little too innovative for my tastes.

breakfast on out last morning was at the lovely Parc, which resembles a French bistro, overlooking Rittenhouse Square. our London pals checked into the Alexander Inn, an old world, well-located place that was a reasonable $165. Next trip:Washington Square. Elspeth place, walk along the river, old prison. But as is, we feel like we got a good feel for this historic old city that is my grandfathers hometown.

Cheese store

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Pre-Wedding and wedding and post-wedding in DC

We are staying at a great Airbnb on Otis and Holmead in Columbia Heights a few streets north of where Noah lived for several years. The neighborhood is still slowly gentrifying – our snazzy airbnb is one sign, an old brick storefront (we’re guessing) that is now a vertical townhouse with blond wood floors and contemporary furniture and a spacious rooftop deck where I’m lounging on a couch.

The Londoners…and Chicagoan

Dinner was nearby at Trip Khao, a Laotian restaurant. very good. Today Francine and I took the bus to near DuPont circle and the weather was so lovely that we got sandwiches at Call your mother deli and sat in Adirondack chairs around the fountain. perfect dining Al fresco spot.

Going girly

Francine and I got our pre wedding manicure at allure Nails, I lost it briefly at the rehearsal, had excellent pork asada for rehearsal dinner at Mi Cuba and drinks/roast by the couple’s friends at The coupe, where the mashup of people from various chapters of Noah’s life (and mine) was a dizzying treat.

My baby boy is getting married.

We returned to the coupe on a rainy Saturday for brunch and the place was packed. Nice upscale independent market Odd Provisions a few blocks south on 11th for a baguette. The wedding was at the Josephine Butler House, pretty old mansion and worked well for lovely wedding. The day after brush was at the Georgetown Marriott which isn’t really in Georgetown and then a treat – post wedding lunch with the groom/ husband at the duck and the peach in Capitol Hill neighborhood.

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wakodahatchee wetlands and Pineapple arts district – Delray Beach

On a lovely Saturday morning, with bright blue sky, sunshine, temperatures in the low 70s, we visited Wakodahatchee Wetlands, a natural oasis hidden among huge condo developments. We walked along a boardwalk that looped around wetlands with amazing wildlife, lots of birds – storks,egrets, herons ducks – and spooky looking orange iguanas and green iguanas. Saw a few turtles but no alligators. Although we were told they’re around.

In downtown Delray Beach we ate at LuLu’s, a lively spot with a great streetside outdoor patio and good breakfast and lunch fare, browsed at a farmers market and a few galleries, shared some excellent frozen custard at Whits, and now here we are at the Fort Lauderdale airport, which is very quiet on a Saturday night. Heading back to Chicago and winter after a welcome respite. Thanks Aunt Shelb! 😘

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Traffic, upper buena vista, traffic, Wynnwood walls, traffic, smoke &dough, traffic, surfside/hasidic beach, traffic — Miami

Wynwood Walls

Many traffic jams to, across, and from Miami which did not surprise us. First stop, a little hip oasis with shops and restaurants surrounding a huge decorated banyan tree, with a few thatched roof huts to boot, in an otherwise inner city neighborhood. It’s called Upper Buena vista. Good coffee place and Turkish restaurant.

Upper buena vista

On to Wynwood walls, a large urban art installation that seems to have spread out in every direction since we last visited seven years ago. More buildings covered in graffiti, more shops and restaurants, more South American touches. I don’t remember having to pay to see the original murals/walls, which we skipped. But so many old warehouse looking buildings and new sleek modern buildings have graffiti murals.

Smoke & Dough
Wynnwood walls

We drove way west for over an hour in traffic to Smoke & Dough, a bbq place that was one of only three Florida restaurants on a list in the nytimes 53 “exciting” restaurants for 2023. It turned out to be in a nondescript strip mall, which was affordable for the young entrepreneurial couple that opened the place. We tried a little of everything. Excellent – ribs, brisket, pulled pork, sausage made with a cheese, corned bread, fries, coleslaw. No weak item and the flan, with a slightly smoky taste was deliciously rich and creamy. We got a few empanadas from the “dough” part of the little restaurant to take back to aunt Shelby’s. The mushroom one was particularly good. They were also making some sort of Venezuelan (I think) bread pudding that looked interesting. I love the South American vibe in Miami!

Upper buena vista

Our last stop was the Miami beach north of south beach called Surfside. (Yes, it’s the place where there was a tragic collapse of a high rise last year that killed many people.) The beach was gorgeous. And it had a Hasidic crowd, as it turned out.

Surfside Miami Beach

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J. Alexander’s and -Kapow! And Dorsia Italian in Boca Raton, Atlantic Dunes state park- Delray Beach, and DUNE in Fort Lauderdale

As winter weary Chicagoans, we are getting a welcome dose of sunshine, Palm trees, manicured green lawns and golf courses, blue sky, and mild temps (low 70s) here in southern Florida visiting my wonderful self-chosen aunt! Dinner was pleasant at J. Alexander’s, which was packed on Tuesday night at 6:30 p.m. Good grilled artichoke, cheeseburger, salad with crispy chicken, and key lime pie.

Dune patio

Today, we had a lovely lunch on the back patio overlooking the beach and ocean at DUNE in Fort Lauderdale – good poke salad and flat breads and sushi. Good service. I saw another side of the spring break crazy Fort Lauderdale, quiet and classy.

Atlantic Dunes State Park, Delray Beach

This evening we drove along the Oceanside highway A1A past astonishingly nouveau Spanish and Italianate mansions, chockablock, blocking the waterfront view, that looked like knockoffs of the Versace mansion in South Beach but we managed to find a Atlantic dunes state park that offered the rest of us access. We could park on the west side of the highway and then cross the highway and walk through a woods along a boardwalk to a gorgeous stretch of sandy white beach that was largely empty at dusk. The water was surprisingly warm and the waves tame, certainly compared to our last Atlantic visit in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware.

Dinner was fun, sitting at a high top table at Kapow! a design-heavy noodle bar with a fun, funky vibe, lots of colorful graffiti/anime graphics. The food was good inventive and traditional Asian – pad Thai, waygu beef potstickers, charred edamame in a tamari-based sauce. kapow! Its among several restaurants in Mizner Plaza, a high end outdoor shopping mall in downtown Boca Raton. A later dinner at a cozy Italian place called Dorsia was also good.

Tattoos at Kapow!

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