Dangerous toll station on 294 in Chicago

What is it with Illinois and their highway toll areas? The state seems to have sacrificed safety, among other things, in its quest to, of course, save money. Yesterday as I entered the outskirts of Chicago at rush hour on Interstate 55, I took the exit onto 294 north and as I was barreling towards a bank of toll booths with a few dollars ready I found that there were no booths or toll takers, just a bunch of automatic toll areas, either exact change or I pass. I had neither and was not about to start fumbling around to find change with cars barreling behind me. So I drove through an I pass without paying. Why risk my life for 60 cents? or any amount actually? A few miles later, at another toll area, this one with a real live toll taker, I mentioned my previous experience and the toll taker said there is are rear end accidents all the time at the previous toll area due to the poor options.

Sadly it reminded me of stories I did at a Connecticut newspaper in the 1980s on highway safety after a number of bad crashes at toll areas on Interstate 95. And to think that I came to Chicago to write about a then-state-of-the art safely designed highway (the Edens expressway, as I recall.) Not too impressed now!

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Meeting an old friend on our Des Moines bike ride: Sister Vicious Power-Hungry Bitch (no joke!)

Meeting up with an old friend at DSM Pride Fest - Sister Vicious Power Hungry Bitch and another Sister of Perpetual Indulgence!

Meeting up with an old friend at DSM Pride Fest – Sister Vicious Power Hungry Bitch and another Sister of Perpetual Indulgence!

I didn’t expect to bump into an old friend on our weekly Sunday bike ride in Des Moines but as we rode into the East Village, the scene was livelier than usual – much livelier thanks to the annual PrideFest. And amidst the rainbow clad revelers I saw a bunch of white-faced nuns and realized they must be the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence – a famous group of gay activists from San Francisco. About 14 years ago, I wrote a profile for the Des Moines Register of one of the leading sisters who just happened to be from Des Moines: Sister Vicious Power-Hungry Bitch.Here’s Sister Vicious’ story about how it all began in the 1970s at the University of Iowa! He/she was charming and it was one of my favorite stories ever – and there she was (she’s the sister in red) back in Des Moines where apparently she spends every summer (She lives most of the year in San Francisco’s Castro district.) We had a nice catch little chat! Can’t recall the name of the other sister in the pix but good to see them.It all began with four gay nuns in Iowa!!

That wasn’t the only excitement on our 32-mile ride  – we left and returned under cloudy skies which briefly turned into a downpour near the Saylorville Dam on the Neal Smith trail. We waited it out then rode through another brief shower but it could have been worse – and certainly looked worse than it was. The weather has been so lousy, especially during these “June” weekends that us bicyclist are resigned to riding in the rain if need be, especially to get in our RAGBRAI training hours. Gnats were omnipresent (I got some in my mouth and ears.) And we even came across some Bow-fishers – yes, guys fishing with giant bows near McHenry Park and North High on the trail. (I thought they were bow-hunting deer at first).

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More excitement for the real Madison County (Iowa) – book, film, now Broadway musical!

Outside the revamped Northside Cafe in Winterset, Iowa

Outside the revamped Northside Cafe in Winterset, Iowa

Madison County Iowa and it’s famous covered bridges may soon see a resurgence of tourists thanks to the soon to be Broadway Musical based on Robert James Waller’s “Bridges of Madison County” novel.  The musical is debuting this summer at the famous theater festival in beautiful Williamstown, Massachusetts.

After the novel and then the movie came out in 1995 – which was filmed on location in Iowa with Clint Eastwood and Meryl Streep, no less – people flocked to the area to visit the bridges. I took at least one English friend besotted with the novel to tour the area back in the mid 1990’s. If and when visitors return, they’ll find some added attractions and improvements in the county seat of Winterset – including the Northside Cafe, the old small town cafe that was used as a film location for the movie and is under new ownership with the same charm but much better food! There’s also some nice shops around the square and an English-style maze in the local park. And there’s a big move afoot to revamp the John Wayne Birthplace/museum  – a humble little white house (see photo below)- into a mega-John Wayne Museum.NYTimes story on Bridges of Madison County on Broadway!

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Filed under DINING, Iowa, Massachusetts, music, theater

Earth-shaking art with Artquake at the Firehouse, courtesy of the DSM Social Club

We will be out of town for this event but it sounds like fun – and a good way to get a look at the new headquarters of the Des Moines Social club in the way cool old Art Deco firehouse downtown. Artquake is June 27 “featuring an explosion of local art and music.” Better than an earthquake! More details below and on the…Des Moines Social Club website

Des Moines Social Club announces Artquake, June 27 at the Firehouse

DES MOINES (June 4, 2013) – Art. Music. Illumination. Party. The Des Moines Social Club (DMSC) is proud to present Artquake, a party featuring an explosion of local art and music at the Firehouse, on Thursday, June 27 from 6-10pm. For one night, DMSC will transform the courtyard of their new home at the Firehouse into an interactive gallery to illuminate the artists and musicians creating right here in Des Moines.

Artquake will feature performances by Satellite State, D*ckweed and Tires, plus installations and live art by Van Holmgren, Asphate Woodhavet (Maxilla Blue), Body by Svec, Rachel Buse, Joe Crimmings, Lucas Moser, and Mickey Davis. Attendees will also have the opportunity to interact and participate in light painting, screen printing, stenciling and painting a collaborative mural. An extravagant illuminated light art show will accompany the music performances, setting the stage of a truly unique experience.

About the Music

Tires will headline Artquake with their energetic, danceable electronic/instrumental rock. The band has consisted of Phillip Young on guitar and electronic sound manipulations and Jordan Mayland on drums and synthesizers since its formation in 2011. Chris Marshall joined the fray as a full time member in 2012, freeing the band to round out Tires’ massive wall of sound with more deliberate focus.

D*ckweed, a new Des Moines alt-country band, will make their debut performance at Artquake. This “supergroup” features a strong lineup of Des Moines talent including Bob Nastonavich, (Pavement), Patrick Tape Fleming (Poison Control Center, Gloom Balloon), Eric Moffitt (Wolves in the Attic, Mantis Pincers), and Trent Derby (Wolves in the Attic, Volcano Boys).

Satellite State, a rock group featuring local high school students that are most well known for playing in Poison Control Center, will round out the Artquake music lineup. With influences of Wavves, Quasi, and WAXEATER, Satellite State make a rock band what it is: distorted guitar and bass, lyrics about girl(s), dorky drunk fills, and hot men!

About the Art

Local artists will showcase the process of creation to Artquake featuring:

– Van Holmgren – live painting of 3D wood piece

– Asphate Woodhavet (Maxilla Blue) – live graffiti

– Joe Crimmings and Lucas Moser – interactive light painting installation

– Mickey Davis – interactive video installaion

– Emily Svec – live Body By Svec body painting

– More to be announced

Artquake

Thursday, June 27

Doors: 6:00pm, Show: 7:00pm-10:00pm

6-10pm

$5 at the door

All Ages

http://desmoinessocialclub.org/artquake
About the Des Moines Social Club

The Des Moines Social Club is a non-profit organization that provides thought-provoking theater, classes for people of all ages, promotion for local artists, and a recruiting tool for the many businesses in Downtown Des Moines. The organization’s vision is to build premier arts institutions that foster social change and revitalize cities. The Des Moines Social Club formed in 2007 and is currently located at 400 Walnut Street. Learn more athttp://desmoinessocialclub.org.

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More Central Iowa cycling news: gnats on Neal Smith trail, BRAMCO ride Sat. in Madison County

So the good news is the Neal Smith trail from downtown toward Saylorville is largely open and not flooded (although word has it the area around the Saylorville marina is closed due to flooding). But my husband, who rode it yesterday, reports there are  lots of gnats. So ride with your mouth shut and wear glasses or goggles.  Meanwhile, there’s a good training ride for RAGBRAI riders (and anyone else) this weekend just southwest of Des Moines – – The 17th annual BRAMCO Ride (Bicycle Ride Across Madison County) is on Saturday. The weather forecast – of great pertinence especially this rainy spring/summer – is for temps in the 70s and a 20 percent chance of rain. Registration starts at 8 a.m. at the North shelter in Winterset. (Not sure where that is.) The ride starts at 9 a.m. and costs $30. Riders have a choice of two loops – the 45 mile and 60 mile. All paved. Promises to be hilly!Snack and sag wagon provided.  For more info see: the Madison County Cycle Club website Madison County Cycle Club website.

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TripAdvisor’s “Top travel destinations” – a few surprises….

Lists are dubious but oh so easy to read – and so I sometimes do.  TripAdvisor’s “Winners 25 Best Destinations” (no word on how the “winners” were chosen) includes many obvious places  and I was pleased to see I’d been to the “top eight” (Paris, New York, London, Rome, Barcelona, Venice, San Francisco,  Florence yadah yadah yadah) but some places that we’re visiting soon also made the list. No – not Kiev (see scenes above) or Bucharest (see below) or Moldova (the world’s most unhappy place if you believe this report http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENK4rS7Y02U), where my husband is going. But Prague squeaked into the top 10 at  #9; Berlin was #11 and Chicago  #14.

Bucharest City Hall

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Weekend away: Farm bounty in southwest Iowa

The Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center includes a community-supported agriculture garden, managed by Sarah Costa, above. Great photo by my friend Gary Fandel at the Iowa Farm Bureau!

Check out the story I wrote that appears in tomorrow’s Minneapolis Star Tribune Travel section on what to do and see in beautiful Adair Count, Iowa – including a pristine old farmstead and good farm-to-table restaurant at the Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center, historically preserved buildings in Greenfield Iowa, a way cool museum with lots of vintage airplanes and a big rock along a country road painted each year with a new memorial honoring U.S. military vets. Star Tribune story on Greenfield Iowa

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Iowa hinterland food scene on the move! latest Iowa Best Bite winner in Oskaloosa.

Chef Pam Oldes plates salads for the 2012 Best Bite Restaurant Challenge in Grinnell.
Chef Pam Oldes plates salads for the 2012 Best Bite Restaurant Challenge in Grinnell. / David Purdy/The Register

For those of us looking for good places to eat in the Iowa hinterland, there’s more good news from the organizers of the Iowa Best Bite contest – the winner of the second contest was chosen and will open a new restaurant in Oskaloosa called On the Green. DMRegister article about On The Green in Oskaloosa The first winner opened her restaurant Prairie Canary in Grinnell last fall and it’s a great addition to the restaurant scene not only in Grinnell but Iowa. I like that both winning chefs are women – although this appears to be just a coincidence.

One of the firms that organizes these contests told me that other Iowa cities are now lining up to host the third contest, two cities – as yet named – in particular are eager. Bring it on!

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In Kansas, thinking of Pennsylvania

Morning in a small town in western Kansas, the wind whipping across endless green and tawny fields beyond the big bay window where my mother-in-law’s red geraniums thrive in intense sunlight. Even from inside the house, you hear the wind, thick and muffled, as it bashes into the walls and windows; and see the wind, in mighty gusts, as it buffets every which way the branches of the few trees out here.

This sprawling split-level, 1960’s tan-brick ranch house in an unincorporated Kansas town, pop. about 100, could not be more different from the upright two-story, early 1900’s red-brick row house in Easton, Pennsylvania, pop. 26,800 today (probably more when I was a kid in the 1960s) where my grandmother lived and I spent many a summer and holiday, visiting from Michigan.

But as I got up today and padded into this big empty home on the range in my bare feet, I felt like I was back in Grama Betty’s small house on the East Coast. Both were once so full of people and life, our lives, and now they’re not. Gradually they filled up and just as gradually, they emptied out, the shift going unnoticed at first and then suddenly painfully obvious.

Both remain so full of memories at every turn, memories big and small, of celebrations and gatherings and laughing fits and hurt feelings and big moments but even more, of commonplace, everyday events, the minor moments, I guess, but not so minor since, combined, they became the stuff of our lives. This is where we once were all together.

In the struggling industrial city along the Delaware River where my Grandma lived (once the proud home of Dixie Cup and Crayola, who needs the neighbors’ steel!), her three-bedroom house at the corner of 8th and Spring Garden Streets had small well-defined spaces, each with a clear, distinct purpose. Her house, our house, was one of many packed closely together on a narrow street, each with its front porch and tiny yard out back. My grandma’s block was toward the top of a steep hill and from a second story bedroom, I loved looking south down to town, at the fraying city way below. And that’s where the view ended. It was a vertical view, all up and down, top to bottom, so unlike the view from this big rambling house in a speck of a town surrounded by wheat, cattle, corn and the occasional feedlot, kill plant, wind turbine farm and nitrogen fertilizer factory (owned by the infamous Koch Brothers, no less).

Here outside Dodge City (which has about as many residents as Easton), the house’s main room is a high-ceilinged, open plan affair where the kitchen flows into the dining area which flows into the living room, shades of The Brady Bunch house, a precursor of today’s pompously-named Great Room. A smattering of other homes, tiny battered bungalows and more spacious, contemporary ranches, form a loose cluster around the tall, humming grain elevator, the town’s focal point. The houses seem to have sprouted up willy-nilly, as need be, with plenty of space between them and wide front lawns and oddly configured backyards, sitting along dirt roads only recently named (so ambulances and fire trucks can find them, if need be).

The view from my in-laws’ house, beyond the small graveyard where my father-in-law and my brother-in-law are buried (a brother-in- law I never met; he died at age 19, as a soldier in Vietnam) is never-ending. Land and sky. Land and sky. Land and sky. Sometimes a few cows, a tractor, a pickup whizzing by on the paved two-lane highway. The view is horizontal, all wide and across, all horizon, a view that never stops.

Yet oddly, I feel like I am in Easton today. Or maybe, not so oddly.

My grandma’s house is further along in the inevitable process of acquiring that ghostly aura, that sentimental presence from the past, of becoming what was rather than what is, of attaining family shrine status. It has not been ours, technically, for years. Grandma died in the 1980’s, and grandpa way before that. Years ago, staying in Easton during my 20s, when Grama was in the hospital, I had the same jarring experience that I had here today, of being alone in a house that was always so busy and crowded. Now, on the rare occasion when I pass through Easton I can only lay claim to our house from an awkward perch on the sidewalk, in front of the porch where I spent so many hours as a kid rocking in a big white wooden chair. Someone else owns the house. But it will always belong to me, to us, our family.

My mother-in-law still owns this house but she doesn’t live here anymore. Her husband of 50-some years died last year. Approaching 90 and increasingly frail, my husband’s mother now lives in Dodge, in a nursing home. My husband is picking her up, as I type, to bring her back home so she can go to her beloved Sunday morning church service at the town’s sole church. So this house is still ours, more theirs since I’m an in-law, but very much my Iowa children’s, who will remember it as deeply, in an almost tactile or physical way, not just through their emotions, as I remember my Grandma’s house.

Here, there are still family photos at every turn, familiar furniture and knickknacks and paintings by the family artist, reminders everywhere of the lives led. The scorecard from the family Scrabble game last Christmas (when L. proudly triumphed), the ancient wedding photos and awkward adolescent photos, the souvenirs from family vacations, the unreturned library book from God knows when, the gifts unused but always thoughtfully displayed, the battered, out of tune piano, the McGovern campaign buttons, the South American handicrafts.

There’s still some beer and viable food in the frig, left behind by the last visitor, and viable pots and pans to cook with, once you find them., although I found out the hard way that there was a hole in one plastic bowl, after eggs I’d cracked and set aside to scramble started dripping out from some opening, forming a sticky yellow pool by the time I noticed them. (Here’s an idea for a reality show: Cooking in your mother-in-law’s kitchen! Better yet, cooking with your in-laws for your in-laws in your mother-in-law’s kitchen! Think of the possibilities, the drama, tensions, conflicts, disasters, heartwarming moments. All this and recipes!)

There are some years left to be lived in this house but not as many as there once were. A lot of the clutter is gone, more kitchen shelves are bare, the old cereal boxes and the old wooden bread bin finally thrown out. The commotion is gone too, for now. We will all gather here again, at Christmas at least, and no doubt for other occasions to come. But this morning it is so quiet. Maybe that’s why the wind sounds so loud.

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Kansas City and Lawrence dining

We splurged on dinner Friday night in downtown Kansas City at a cool new restaurant that harkens back to the 1920’s mob era and allegedly produced whiskey during prohibition. I have it on good authority that the Rieger Hotel Grill does indeed has in the men’s bathroom reading “Al Capone pissed here.” The food was very good – soft shell crab with lemon aioli and greens; pork cheek with “local polenta” ( according to the menu) and ” some kind of pea and carrot thing” (according to D.). it has a nice vibe, an old fashioned narrow high ceilinged storefront with nice impressionistic paintings of what appeared to be a symphony orchestra (bravo!). Good to see these kinds of places popping up in reclaimed once dying parts of downtown. must check out another newcomer nearby, Anton’s Tap Room.

In Lawrence, after staying at a tolerable (and cheap) Quality Inn, we breezed through the farmers market which had several guitar playing folk singers and lots of green onions. We ate breakfast at the brand new location of Milton’s, which moved to a bigger place around the block from its previous spot on Massachusetts Ave. (fun fact: Lawrence is was named after Lawrence, Mass. Outside Boston, which must have been a bigger deal in the 1850s when Lawrence Ks was founded as a Free State bastion…where John Brown hung out.) Good French toast at Milton’s although we were tempted to eat across the street at The Bourgeois Pig, for the name alone! Picked up a bread at Wheatfields Bakery, a couple of Jayhawks Basketball t-shirts ( because the males in this family cannot get enough of them) and hit the road again, heading West.

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