Category Archives: THE MIDWEST

Great recommendations for next trip to St. Louis!!

My stepdaughter E had a great time recently in St. Louis. Here are her recommendations/impressions!

  • – a stay at the Renaissance, formerly the Statler, which is the oldest hotel in downtown St. Louis.
  • – Downtown St. Louis is beautiful with 200 year old buildings that looked like they haven’t been touched.  We walked into the train station, an Art Nouveau masterpiece, and I was astounded at how well it had been preserved.
  • – Drive around the Soulard,  the old French district.  It is extremely similar to New Orleans and in fact, we just missed the big Mardi Gras celebration going on this weekend.  Soulard has lots of cute blues and jazz bars.
  • – We went to a great Thai restaurant, The King and I in the Tower Grove neighborhood.  Grand in Tower Grove seems to have a long strip of ethnic restaurants, Ethopian, Middle Eastern, Korean, etc, all in a row.  After dinner we went to the Gelateria del Leone where they had homemade gelato and coffee. It was outstanding.
  •  -On Monday, we tried to go to a cafe in Lafayette Square, but unfortunately it was closed.  Lafeyette Square has big beautiful houses that are probably from around the late 19th century.
  • –  lunch at Pappy’s Smokehouse, in Midtown, near SLU, known for the brisket.  It was some solid BBQ, but the best thing was probably the fried corn on the cob.  It tasted like popcorn.
  • – We drove around the Central West End, near Forest Park, where private gated drives were filled with century old mansions.  We stopped in a mystery book store called the Big Sleep.
  • – We finished the day in a new trendy area called Cherokee.  We had some serious mochas ( a hot chocolate drink) at the Mudd Cafe on Cherokee street (the food looked really good too).  The  street was lined with vintage shops and serious taco stands that I definitely want to hit up when I go back.

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a few St. Louis ideas

A few St. Louis ideas, by request:

– The last two times I went, we spent most of our time around Wash U. and went to a Cardinals game.

– I went to the old garden district one very hot sweltering day for lunch.

– then there’s the arch of course. and a new-ish downtown sculpture garden near by.

–  The beer garden (Busch beer) we went to was at Grant’s Farm but doesn’t appear to be open until april: http://www.grantsfarm.com/TheBauernhof.htm

– fun fact re The Hill neighborhood (italian) in St. Louis (which I haven’t been to):
“It’s so crowded nobody goes there anymore.” This was said by Yogi Berra about Ruggeri’s (a Hill neighborhood restaurant) where he and Joe Garagiola had worked as waiters, which had become so popular that his old friends couldn’t get in anymore.

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unexpected trip to dodge city kansas and the cowtown for steak.

We made an unexpected trip to western Kansas for my father-in-law’s funeral, sadly, and I haven’t made it out of the small town of Wright Kansas, where he lived, much. we did have dinner last night at “the Cowtown” – a popular steak house that didn’t disappoint (although next time I’ll have the t-bone instead of the nystrip and I’ll ask for it rare rather than rare/medium rare.) If only our father-in-law could have been with us – a man who sold and bought many a cow, he loved a good steak. And, of course, his family. We miss him.

I’ve left the house for a little fresh air today and may drive over to see the new casino that everyone is talking about here in Dodge. There’s also a vietnamese restaurant called Saigon Cafe that my niece tells me is good.

 

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Mexican food in Dodge City, Middle Eastern in Wichita

Just back from western Kansas after a nine hour drive. We didn’t get out much in Dodge City but did make a quick trip to Tacos Jalisco, our favorite fast food Mexican joint on Wyatt Earp Blvd. (great name I know) in Dodge. Also found out there is one in Salina. (good to know). We usually have the carne asada platter. Nothing fancy but does the trick and the free salsa and chips well worth it. Stopped today for lunch in Wichita at N&J Bakery for middle eastern food. Best hummus anywhere. And great homemade pita chips and fresh pita bread.

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The annual Xmas drive to western Kansas – dodging blizzards.

 I have been driving to western Kansas (Dodge City and environs) for over 20 years to celebrate Christmas with my in-laws and it seems like every other year, we are driving into a blizzard or have narrowly missed one before or after. So news of the Great Plains blizzard that hit several of the very places we’ll be driving through (Wichita on Thursday, Dodge City on Friday) isn’t a surprise. But a tad unnerving just the same. Also nerve-wracking for my sister-in-law and her family, who make the drive to western Kansas from Albuquerque, N.M.
Two things I  learned in, oh, 1990 I think, after getting stuck in a blinding snowstorm in the Raton Pass on the Colorado-New Mexico border (not during a Xmas trip.)  1) Let my husband do the driving. 2) stop driving as soon as possible and wait out the storm.
December 20, 2011 4:58 AM

Deadly blizzard paralyzes Great Plains

Longmont police respond to three separate weather-related accidents as snow falls on Colo. Hwy. 66 at Francis Street in Longmont, Colo., Dec. 19, 2001. (AP/Longmont Times-Call)

(AP)

WICHITA, Kan. – Fierce winds and snow that caused fatal road accidents and shuttered highways in five states, crawled deeper into the Great Plains early Tuesday, with forecasters warning that pre-holiday travel would be difficult if not impossible across the region.

Hotels were filling up quickly along major roadways from eastern New Mexico to Kansas, and nearly 100 rescue calls came in from motorists in the Texas Panhandle as blizzard conditions forced closed part of Interstate 40, a major east-west route, Monday night.

About 10 inches of snow had fallen in western Kansas before dawn Tuesday and several more inches along with strong wind gusts were expected, National Weather Service meteorologist Marc Russell said.

“We’re talking about whiteout conditions,” he said.

Heather Haltli, 29, and her husband were traveling from their home at Hill Air Force Base in Utah to attend a family funeral in Abilene, Texas, but the storm slowed them down so badly that they had to take refuge at the Comfort Inn in Garden City, Kan.

“We’ve been traveling about 20 miles per hour all the way from Denver,” Haltli said Tuesday. She said they had passed up to 15 wrecks including rollovers, upside down cars and jackknifed trucks as they drove through Colorado.

“I don’t think we’ll be able to make the funeral, but we’ll keep going,” she said.

Colorado Highway Patrol trooper Nate Reid said the freezing rain and fog came in so fast on Monday that it caught a lot of drivers unaware.

“I can’t even count how many rollovers we had,” Reid said.

Snowpack and icy conditions forced the closure of roadways across western and southwestern Kansas, including a western section of the I-70, the main thoroughfare that traverses the state.

“Southwest Kansas is pretty much shut down completely,” Derek Latham, a dispatcher for the Kansas Highway Patrol in Salina said early Tuesday. “I have one trooper who almost went into a ditch this morning, and he came across four other cars that went into a ditch. That was just this morning.”

The storm was blamed for at least six deaths Monday, authorities said. Four people were killed when their vehicle collided with a pickup truck in part of eastern New Mexico where blizzard-like conditions are rare, and a prison guard and inmate died when a prison van crashed along an icy roadway in eastern Colorado.

The late-autumn snowstorm lumbered into the region Monday, turning roads to ice and reducing visibility to zero. The conditions put state road crews on alert and had motorists taking refuge and early exits off major roads across the region.

In northern New Mexico, snow and ice shuttered all roads from Raton to the Texas and Oklahoma borders about 90 miles away. Hotels in Clayton, N.M., just east of where the three states touch, were nearly full. Multiple highways remained closed early Tuesday.

Linda Pape, general manager of the Clayton Super 8 motel said it was packed with unhappy skiers who had been headed to lodges in Colorado and elsewhere in New Mexico.

“They lost a day or two of skiing, and they had budgeted an amount of money they were going to spend, and now they have to spend more staying somewhere else,” she said.

Pape said it’s not uncommon for skiers to get stuck in Clayton during the winter, and she keeps two freezers and a refrigerator stocked in case roads are closed.

“They are not happy, but we are not letting them go hungry,” she said.

The storm came after much of the country had a relatively mild fall. With the exception of the October snowstorm blamed for 29 deaths on the East Coast, there’s been little rain or snow. Many of the areas hit Monday enjoyed relatively balmy 60-degree temperatures just 24 hours earlier.

Snowfall tapered off early Tuesday in the Oklahoma Panhandle, although the weather service warned of blowing snow and single digit temperatures later after dark. Up to a foot of snow fell in Boise City, Okla.

On Monday, mail carrier Vicki Roberts said she could no longer see the nearby 4,973-foot-tall Black Mesa, the highest point in Oklahoma, from the window of her home in Kenton.

“I have a mail route and I’m not going,” Roberts said. “You just don’t get out in this. We’ll be socked in here. If we lose power, we’ll just read a book in front of the fireplace.”

Travel throughout the region was difficult. New Mexico shut down a portion of Interstate 25, the major route heading northeast of Santa Fe into Colorado, and Clayton police dispatcher Cindy Blackwell said her phones were “ringing off the hook” with calls from numerous motorists stuck on rural roads.

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minneapolis – top bike-friendly city

When we were in Minneapolis last month – we wished we had our bikes as we watched people gliding along beautiful bike paths along the Mississippi. So no big surprise that it’s at the top of this mag’s bike-friendly cities – although it can get awfully chilly  for bike riding up there.
Minneapolis, the largest city in the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” is adding 57 new miles of bikeways this year, with plans to add another 183 miles during the next 20 years. With these efforts, Minneapolis nabbed the top spot in Bicycling magazine’s Top 50 list of bike-friendly cities and was designated a Gold-level bicycle-friendly community by the League of American Bicyclists. To learn more about the city’s trails, visit TrailLink.com.

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Revisting old Twin Cities favorites – Lucia’s, Walker Art Center, U of M Gehry Museum

We did visit some old favorites last weekend in the Twin Cities that didn’t disappoint. They include:

Lucia’s, the venerable Uptown restaurant, was packed on a Saturday night, as expected so we were glad to have booked a table well in advance. It’s a cozy unpretentious place that prides itself in a constantly changing seasonal menu using fresh local ingredients whenever possible. One mild complaint – both our soup and a main course arrived luke-warm bordering on cold. They were quickly warmed up. And the desert – an updated version of German Sweet Chocolate cake – was too sweet and heavy. (The cake was more like chewy macaroon and the frosting more like denser chocolate.) But the appetizers and main courses were beautifully done. We had a cup of a white bean soup with vegetables and chorizo; an amazing ravioli filled with caramelized cauliflower with thick bits of bacon on a bed of arugula, a very tasty baked chicken dish served with perfectly cooked brussel sprouts, chewy mushrooms and a bread pudding; and a leg of lamb in calvados with sliced apples and braised vegetables.

– I’ve never really gotten used to the Walker Art Center’s new building – feels sort of disjointed and without a center and the graphics show left me cold. But always good to check in there – and at the sculpture garden across teh street.

– The University of Minnesota’s Art Museum has a new wing also designed by Frank Gehry, who designed the rest of the place. It’s a crazy shiny steel-clad building (although there is some rust…) that looks a bit like a crumpled up beer can. Inside the space is light and airy and all the better for displaying an eclectic collection of contemporary art.

– We took the drive along the river from U of M to St. Paul – absolutely gorgeous on a crisp fall day with blazing autumn leaves. Wished we were riding our bikes!

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Twin Cities bakeries/sandwich shops – the good and not as good

We did the grand tour of quirky independent bakeries and sandwich shops in the Twin Cities last weekend and here’s how they stack up:

Cheeky Monkey, a sandwich shop on Selby Avenue in the Cathedral Hill neighborhood of St. Paul (i.e. just west of the Cathedral downtown) –  This is a keeper. Lively vibe, good service, tasty food, interesting neighborhood – just down the street from Garrison Keillor’s fantastic Common Good Books. We shared a Muffaletta which was perhaps not the most authentic but still substantial sandwich with a zing served with very good homemade potato chips.

Patisserie 46, (46th and Grand, a bakery in southwest Minneapolis’ “emerging Kingfield neighborhood” (according to the NYTimes.) We should have eaten lunch here. The sandwiches looked great – one I spotted was thick slabs of real-meat turkey served inside a hearty baguette. Next time. The pastries also fancy and delicate. We got some croissants and a very good olive sourdough bread to go.

Be’wiched, in the warehouse district of Minneapolis on Washington Ave., this sandwich shop and deli didn’t have the warm funky environment of Cheeky Monkey. It had more of a sleek, clean vibe which wasn’t as welcoming. The sandwiches – allegedly among the nation’s best according to a prominent food mag – were a little too strange for us.  The Roast Beef (on ciabatta served with horseradish, havarti and onion jam) was better than the tuna confit (real pieces of fish/not tuna from a can served with black olives, cucumber, aioli, preserved lemon on Focaccia), a good idea but strange tasting and pricey at $9.50. Four tiny containers with different side salads came with our sandwiches and we tried but didn’t finish any of them. Oh well.

Bars Bakery – This place, down the street from the Cheeky Monkey on Selby was closed, but sounds like it’s worth a visit. It specializes in the classic dessert bar, which is apparently a Minnesota staple (our b&b served some at breakfast come to think of it, one made of lingonberries.)

Evelo’s B&B – Come to think of it, some of the best pastries we had were at this Lowry Hill B&B near Uptown, the Lake of the Isles, the Walker Art Center and downtown where we like to stay. I don’t know which they made and which they bought but we had wonderful brioche (soft, sugar-dusted muffin-shaped pastry with dollop of vanilla custard inside), kringle (I think), and lefse  (a Norwegian pastry that’s a piece of dough/flatbread slathered with butter, honey and cinnamon then rolled and cut into bite-size pieces. Tasty. Fortunately it wasn’t served with that other Norwegian specialty, lutefisk.)

Also on my list which we didn’t try:

Sweets Bakeshop near Patisserie 46 and the Salty Tart Bakery in Minneapolis.

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Amazing views and vertigo at Guthrie Theater in Minneapolis

We finally visited the new (okay five-year-old) Guthrie Theater last weekend during a visit to the Twin Cities. What an astonishing place. Designed by Frenchman Jean Nouvel’s (2008 winner of the Pritzker Prize)  its odd-looking exterior is a  rounded cobalt highrise (echoing the nearby historic flour mills downtown) with a protruding platform that sticks out towards the Mississippi River like a bridge lopped off in mid stride.  As suggested, we took the very narrow steep elevator that reminded me of an elevator in the London Tube system to the fifth floor and walked out on the platform which we had all to ourselves on a quiet Saturday morning in late October.  Astonishing views of the River,  St. Anthony Falls and the Stone Arch Bridge, bright sunshine bouncing off the blue glass, and I felt like an ant whose antenna had been ripped off. Dizzy. Disoriented. Dazzled.

Inside, the strange interior – soaring spaces with cut out windows offer very precise views of the river and city and a lovely green landscaped park dotted with fiery red-leafed trees – also had me feeling woozy. We rode the elevator up to the ninth floor for another dazzling view, this time through huge panes of yellow-green tinted windows. Interesting how the glass totally changed the view we’d seen several floors below. We also walked around the curving space lining one of the theaters and through the sleek darkened bars on the fifth floor.

Building tours are available the first Saturday of the month. Next time, we’ll go to a performance there at one of the complex’s three stages (the “thrust stage” and Shakespeare seems good idea.)

for photos and more info: see http://www.guthrietheater.org/about_guthrie/our_spaces

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New places to check out in Minneapolis this weekend


We are off to Minneapolis this weekend and here is what’s on my list to check out:

The new wing of the Frank Gehry-designed art museum of the U of Minnesota campus. (Gehry also designed the new wing.) One complication – the U of Iowa/U of Minnesota football game at 2:30. Guess we’ll try to go to the museum after the game starts.

– The graphic arts show at the Walker Art Center (and as always, we’ll revisit the sculpture garden across the street.)

–  A reportedly great new bakery in an “emerging” Kingfield neighborhood: Patisserie 46 4552 Grand Ave. S. Maybe check out Cafe Ena, 4601 Grand Avenue South, a Latin fusion restaurant, or Saffron Restaurant and Lounge, 123 N. 3rd street for some Middle Eastern grub. See review (below)that accompanied it’s “Best Middle Eastern Food” award from a local magazine:

And we’ll do some of our old standbys in the Uptown area around Hennepin Ave. where we usually base ourselves:

– Stay at Evelo’s  Evelo’s Bed & Breakfast 2301 Bryant Avenue South in the Lowery Hill East Neighborhood. From the outside, this 1897 three-story house house is unexceptional. Inside, it’s remarkable – a well-preserved Victorian home with original woodwork, period furnishings including lots of Tiffany stained glass lamps and lovely dining room with reproduction wall paper designed or inspired by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the famous Scottish architect and designer.

– Dinner at Lucia’s, 1432 W. 31st Street. (Apparently it now has a Dog Bar…not sure what that’s all about.) We m

Most Americans think of Middle Eastern food as hummus and shish kebab. But Middle Eastern countries such as Syria, Iran, Israel, Iraq, Egypt, and Turkey have their own distinctive cuisines, a blend of culinary traditions that evolved over centuries of migration and war. Saffron is a fitting place to savor the diversity of the Middle East, as the restaurant features flavors of northern Africa, the Persian Gulf, and the Arabian Peninsula. Everything on the menu, from the giant beans laced with dill and olive oil to the sweet and savory chicken bisteeya in flaky phyllo dough, is carefully prepared and faithful to the ingredients’ flavors. Take the lamb brain with tomato confit. The savory richness of the brain, which is accompanied by a whiff of organ-meat fragrance reminiscent of foie gras, is balanced by the sweet preserved tomato and garlic. A touch of parsley elevates the flavor and rounds out the dish to perfection. Saffron has a fantastic cocktail program, featuring original drinks made with infused liquors: Spices such as white and Szechuan peppers, mejdool dates, and chamomile transform familiar spirits like gin, whiskey, and brandy into veritable elixirs. They say the history of a land is written in its food. Saffron is a reminder of how complex the Middle East can be.

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