Category Archives: THE MIDWEST

Hanging out in the Minneapolis airport..great places to eat

We were not looking forward to our three hour layover in the Minneapolis airport en route to Phoenix from Des Moines but it turned out to be better than expected. We found a surprisingly good restaurant and decided to splurge since it was a Saturday night and we were stuck in an airport. And by splurge I mean paying $10 for a fancy sandwich with top-notch ingredients as opposed to $5 at Subway. We ate at a wine bar called Surdyk’s Flight in the “airport mall,”  which  has small plates, sandwiches, salads and paninis served in a sleek alcove with a few booths, each with a flat screen TV showing a movie with the sound off and English subtitles. Our sandwiches were excellent, served on crusty baguettes from what we were told is one of the best bakeries in the twin cities, Rustica. The restaurant itself is an offshoot of a well known wine shop in Minneapolis. (Hence the word “flight” in the restaurant’s name.)

One sandwich was salami with a thick slab of fresh mozzarella, aoili, greens. The other was Applewood turkey with thick slice of Manchego cheese, aoili, quince jam. My husband had one of his favorite beers, Bell’s from Kalamazoo., Michigan. The place even had two of Iowa’s finer products, La Quercia prosciutto and Templeton Rye. We shared a Rustica ginger molasses cookie for dessert and all toll managed to easily kill over an hour at dinner.

On the way back to Des Moines, with another three hours to kill in the Minneapolis airport, we ate at the super sleek Japanese sushi and noodle place Shoyu in Concourse G. The food was really good (and pricey) – we had very crispy chicken and mushroom wontons with cilantro and smoked chili glaze and shared an entree –  Tokyo style pork ramen with hard boiled egg , wakame, memma, and togarashi (none of these items were familiar except the egg) and a Rush River Amber Ale from River Falls, Wisconsin. We ordered on an Ipad (not the one I am typing on now) and watched chefs cook in an open kitchen. Brave new world here. The waiter told us the new restaurants in Concourse G are part of the airport’s overhaul last August and some were conceived with the help of well-known Twin Cities chefs.  Shoyu, for example, was the offspring of Tanpopo noodle house in St. Paul’s warehouse district.

Also in the foodie flyer’s heaven of Concourse G, we  found Mimosa, an upscale French restaurant, and Minnibar, a cafe that looked like a set from the Jetsons (serving “globally inspired sandwiches created by Chef Andrew Zimmern). There also is a new high-design upscale “food hall” in Concourse G (and other mini-halls elsewhere) that is markedly different in appearance and offerings from the old-style “food court” that still exists in the airport (along with fast food chain outposts sprinkled here and there including Starbucks, A&W, Subway, Godfather’s Pizza, Quiznos Sub, DQ, Chick-fil-A, Sharro ).  While the courts have the usual Chinese and Mexican fast food, the halls are sleek and cleanly designed with little areas selling upscale fro yo, lots of fresh fruit, eccentric assortments of candy (goo goo clusters from Nashville but alas no Hi-Chews, from Japan), cleverly packaged travel items, from nausea pills to backpacks.

Of course we were looking for some humble popcorn after sharing our pricy entree and appetizer at Shoyu. No such luck.

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Filed under Minneapolis

To try in Kansas City – Port Fonda for hipster Mexican!

Nice of the NYTimes to offer us another dining option when we pass through Kansas City – which we do at least twice a year en route to Wichita or Dodge City to see my in-laws. Port Fonda is a  hipster Mexican place whose roots – like many good hipster places these days – are in the food truck world. Word has it the place will start serving lunch this month!

This dish sounds great: sopa Port Fonda, inspired by Vietnamese pho,: pork belly, braised pork shoulder, grilled and roasted vegetables, chochoyotes (masa dumplings) and a fried egg — all soaking in a spicy bacon-chile broth.

Port Fonda, 4141 Pennsylvania Avenue, Kansas City, Mo.; (816) 216-6462; portfondakc.com. The average price for dinner for two, not including drinks and tip, is about $35.

 Other items mentioned: lengua tacos and tomato-braised octopus. margaritas flavored with blood orange liqueur and hibiscus syrup. tacos, tortas, chilaquiles, menudo (a traditional soup), tripe is braised until tender and smooth; other pieces are cut into ribbons and fried. Another popular dish, chilaquiles, is topped with house-made mashed green chorizo and a sauce brightened with Dos Equis beer.

Port Fonda, 4141 Pennsylvania Avenue, Kansas City, Mo.; (816) 216-6462; portfondakc.com. The average price for dinner for two, not including drinks and tip, is about $35.

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Filed under DINING, Kansas City

Cool art show alert in Grinnell – art from the grocery aisles

Jonathan Seliger, Seasonal, 2010

September 20, 2013 – December 15, 2013 |

I like contemporary art that rifs off of contemporary life (isn’t that what it should do?) so I’m intrigued by an upcoming show at Grinnell College’s excellent Faulconer Gallery  “Stocked Contemporary Art from the Grocery Aisles” that features art inspired by “shopping carts, candy wrappers, grocery lists, paper bags, milk bottles and cereal boxes – ordinary often overlooked items” that emerge as “objects for artistic investigation. The show runs from Sept. 20 to Dec. 15, 2013 and will give me another excuse to dine at the excellent Prairie Canary restaurant on Main Street. The show also has connections to Wichita, where I lived long ago. It was organized by Wichita State University’s Ulrich Museum.

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Filed under DINING, Iowa, THE ARTS, Wichita

Presidential also-ran museum in Norton Kansas…

Former Massachusetts governor Mitt Romney’s portrait is the most recent addition to the “They Also Ran Gallery,” above a bank lobby in Norton, Kan.

Former Massachusetts governor Mitt Romney’s portrait is the most recent addition to the “They Also Ran Gallery,” above a bank lobby in Norton, Kan.

Now this is my kind of museum – dedicated to losing politicians, people who fought the good fight and lost but lived to see another day with their portraits on the walls of a museum in Norton, Kansas – which I see is in northwest Kansas, not far from the only place I wanted to go to up there, the near ghost town of Nicodemus, where there once was a sizable black community.  Apparently it’s not really a museum, really a portrait gallery in a room at a local bank (The First State Bank.)Here’s info on the museum in Norton (which just hung the photo up of Mitt Romney) and of Nicodemus, billed as the only remaining western town established by African Americans during the post-Civil War Reconstruction. (Last I heard there wasn’t much left there.)

A formal photograph of a stoic Mitt Romney has been hung in a small portrait gallery in Norton, Kan. The 2012 Republican presidential nominee and former Massachusetts governor was not present for the unveiling. His campaign did not even supply the official image. But the community’s enthusiasm was undiminished. Norton is home to what is believed to be the only museum in America dedicated to presidential runners-up. Romney was taking his rightful place in a pantheon of losers. (Boston globe)

Nicodemus National Historic Site, located in Nicodemus, Kansas, United States, preserves, protects and interprets the only remaining western town established by African Americans during the Reconstruction Period following the American Civil War. The town of Nicodemus is symbolic of the pioneer spirit of African Americans who dared to leave the only region they had been familiar with to seek personal freedom and the opportunity to develop their talents and capabilities. The site was named for a legendary African-American slave who purchased his freedom.

Nicodemus in 1885

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Filed under Kansas misc

Dog stops on highway 54 east of dodge city, I-35 north of emporia

We found a good park to walk Ernie on highway 54 in Pratt, Kansas, the halfway point between dodge city and Wichita (roughly.) it’s called Zenger Park, a small patch of yellowed frozen grass with a classic wind whipped Kansas tree and some antiquated playground equipment and an empty concrete wading pool. perfect…

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And then of course there is the rest stop north of Emporia on Interstate 35 just past the Flint Hills…

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The welcoming committee in wright Kansas

The canine welcoming committee was waiting for Ernie, our vizsla, when we took our first walk in the small town of wright, Kansas where my husband grew up. Three dogs were waiting in a pack in the driveway as Ernie came out on her leash, pulling me behind her. Although Ernie seemed game, I wasn’t sure our city dog was ready to roam with these townie scruffs so we stared each other down for a few minutes until they appeared to lose interest and trotted off down the dirt road toward the church.

Today it was so cold and windy and snowy that I never made it out the door and Ernie took a few very brief walks with other attending adults. Back to Iowa tomorrow. Below is a photo of my other in law on her 89th birthday (Xmas eve) with some of her grandchildren….

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Nothing like a Kansas sunset/classic scenic overlook dodge city

We drove into a very dramatic sunset yesterday on highway 50 near Spearville and Wright Kansas, with a wide shelf of purple/pink clouds pierced by a bolt of bright blue, all looming above massive whirling turbines of a wind farm and the occasional grain elevator. today we had a clear cold morning and three neighborhood dogs were waiting right outside our door when I took Ernie out to walk. Word travels fast, apparently in a small town when there’s a new dog around. We didn’t trust our city dog to run wild with the neighborhood pack.

We did take in the view – and the pungent smell- at dodge city’s scenic overlook just east of town.

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Filed under Kansas misc

Politically incorrect tank/good stops for dogs in Kansas

Found a good place to walk Ernie near paxico Kansas on interstate 70 west of Topeka in the flint hills (supposedly…doesn’t look much like the flint hills here. It’s a rest area with a strange concrete bunker -like structure built into a hill. There is a nice hilly stretch of land for a dog to do its business. None back on the road. We were not sure how Ernie would do hanging out in the car by herself so we ate in shifts at the chipotle in Topeka. If the weather was warmer we might have been able to sit with ernie on the outdoor patio. Are there any chain restaurants that permit dogs? I know this is Kansas not France but maybe there are.

And for those few of you driving further west, there is a dandy little rural park off highway 156/96 just before Great Bend, kansas where we had the good sense to stop and let Ernie out to stretch and, as fate would have it, throw up. One more hour in the car and then we are in…Wright, Kansas. our destination.

Hours later and we just had to stop with Ernie at one of highway 50’s highlights in the small town of Offerle…the tank in the local park, a memorial to Vietnam vets. With Santa aboard. And a politically incorrect name painted on the barrel. We are not in Iowa any more.

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Filed under interstates, Kansas misc

where to stay along the Mississippi in Iowa, Wisconsin and Minnesota

One of the worst nights we’ve had was staying aboard a boat that doubles as a hotel of sorts along the Mississippi River in Dubuque Iowa. It seemed like a good idea but the quarters were cramped and strange; the boat was docked beside not only a busy road but a railroad track so it was noisy; and we were the only people aboard. Given that this boat was among the recommendations listed for where to stay along the Mississippi in a 2009 issue of a Minneapolis based mag, I’m not sure how the other recommendations will be. But here they are just in case:

– Golden Lantern Inn, Red Wing, MN

– Tritsch House B&B, Alma, WI (this is a really nice little river town!)

– Alexander Mansion, Winona, Mn.- Wilson Schoolhouse Inn, LaCrosse, WI

– The Hancock House, Dubuque

– Mont Rest, Bellevue, Ia. (long been curious about this place)

– Tatanka Bluffs, Redwood Falls, MN

– Belle Rive, Lanesboro, MN

– Oakenwald Terrace. Chatfield, MN

– Woodland Trails. Hinckley, MN

– Inn at Sacred Clay Farm, Lanesboro, MN

– Solglimit, Duluth, MN

– Blue Heron, Ely, MN

– Loon Song Bed and Breakfast, Park Rapids, MN

– A.G. Tomson House. Duluth, MN

– Covington Inn, St. Paul, MN

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Filed under Iowa, Minnesota, Wisconsin

Stroud’s famous pan fried chicken – good option for near Kansas City Airport

 Stroud’s Oak Ridge Manor: Deluxe Fried ChickenDinners

When we flew back from New Orleans to Kansas City Airport last month we arrived early afternoon – and were hungry, having skipped lunch. We were too early to have dinner at the Justus Drugstore in Smithville, Mo. – a destination-dining spot in an old 1960’s-style pharmacy  which I’ve always wanted to try – north of the airport. But we had perfect timing for Stroud’s in North Kansas City, just off I-35. On a Sunday at 4 p.m. it was relatively easy to get a table before the dinner onslaught and we had a lovely table in the back room in front of big picture windows overlooking a classic autumn scene – swans gliding on a small lake surrounded by trees with yellow and orange leaves. The food was great too – a chicken dinner for two was really two nights of dinners and a breakfast. We had a second helping of fried chicken and mashed potatoes the next night and ate the cinnamon rolls the next morning for breakfast. The chicken was delicious – crisp, flavorful, not greasy and hot; the mashed potatoes and thick gravy good; excellent service- even at the end of the meal our server brought more gravy so we could take it home with our other leftovers. We hadn’t been to this particular Stroud’s – in a pretty 1800’s white farmhouse and log cabin called “Oak Ridge Manor” – for years, preferring instead the old roadhouse Stroud’s further south in Kansas City but that one was closed, sadly, to make way for an expanded highway, so this new one is fine. There’s also a new one in the the K.C. suburb of Fairway and in Wichita. Good to know!

Justus Drugstore

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Filed under DINING, Missouri