Category Archives: Kansas

Sentimental journey: Overland Park farmers market, cottonwood falls, bazaar cemetery

 

On our drive to Dirck’s childhood home for the last time (it has been sold) we have stopped at some favorite spots during our almost 30 years driving together through Kansas.

The Overland Park Farmers market was overflowing with gorgeous produce but we restrained ourselves since and bought only what we can eat in the next two days away. Peaches, cantelope and a fantastic looking bread from the Ibis bakery stand (our “morning buns” were delicious, a bun made with croissant dough sprinkled with cinnamon sugar.)

On to the flint hills and the old town of Cottonwood Falls with its glorious French revival courthouse. We wandered down the three block brick Main Street, poked around in some antique/junk shops and craft shops, had fantastic sirloin steak sliders in the restaurant At the classy western hotel, The Grand Central Hotel and found a cool old limestone motel at the other end of Main Street along the river that looks like an amazing place to stay, the Millstream Resort Motel.

We drove south along scenic byway 177 through the vast open, gently rolling flint hills, the road almost entirely to ourselves. So much open space, land, sky, road. love that feeling. We stopped briefly at the old Bazaar Cemetery to walk along the old gravestones and hear nothing but the wind blowing through the trees.

Now we are in Wright Kansas, an unincorporated city of less than 100 people, outside Dodge City, packing up the house with some of Dirck’s siblings and their families. Strange. Sad. One of life’s endings.

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Filed under Kansas, Kansas misc

Dodge city dining– tacos Jalisco

imageNo visit to Wright, Kansas is complete without a visit to Tacos Jalisco in nearby Dodge City so we found ourselves here, yet again, on a suddenly snowy bleak day after Xmas. Good nothin fancy soft tacos (fried pork is my new fave) and carne asada and flan in a long open dining room with lots of murals of the old country. We also did a little antiquing at the dodge city antique mall near Hastings dept store and stopped at Dillons grocery for some Art and Mary jalapeño potato chips, a Kansas Classic (it was just arts when we lived in Wichita many years ago.)

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Eating en route to Dodge City: Liberty, Mo (Stroud’s chicken), Lawrence, ks (Wheatfields), Salina (cozy inn)

Fine dining en route to dodge city Kansas from Des Moines for Christmas:

Stroud’s (“we choke our own chickens”) off I 35 north of Kansas City). We didn’t think we’d be able to stop here because there is usually a long wait but we drove right into a prime parking spot on a Tuesday night at 8:15 pm (albeit holiday date) and sat at the small bar rather than waiting  40 minutes for a table. Great pan fried chicken and what everyone needs after a chicken dinner – killer cinnamon rolls, buttery and warm. Perfect stop before picking our son up at the Kansas City airport.

Wheatfields bakery in Lawrence where we learned we could avoid the long line for take out pastries and bread if we ordered breakfast as well at a counter with no line. And good grub too although I just had a small croissant (still recovering from Stroud’s.) Our waitress enthusiastically recommended another old tome bakery in town for its cream cheese donuts. Next time. (And there will be…)

Cozy Inn, we took up three of the six seats at the counter in this shoe box of a burger joint, with a great view of the two tattooed guys cooking sliders on a griddle. Forgot how good those sliders are..small and mighty, slightly rare with grilled onions and pickles (no cheese or fries allowed) on a small moist white bun.

Ad Astra, a hipster coffee shop around the block on Salina’s main drag where I had a good chai latte and found a great used book about Elizabeth “Grandma” Layton, a sweet older lady from small town Kansas who painted brilliantly wicked self portraits. (One of which hangs in our kitchen nook.) We met her in the late 1980’s when some friends and I were playing pool at a bar and met her nephew, or some such, who called her to see if she was receiving visitors. She was . So we went to her house and she served us lemonade and showed us around and let us buy signed posters of her work. Only in Kansas!! She died in 1993 I see from the book (which I had to buy!)

The sun is finally out with endless blue sky, bald brown hills, the occasional wind-whipped tree and lots of gleaming white whirling wind turbines. Life is good.

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Casa Alvarez and Jalisco: good Mexican in dodge city

D and n at Doll ancestral home in Wright, Ks

D and n at Doll ancestral home in Wright, Ks

We had excellent fajitas at Casa Alvarez  in downtown Dodge City – the steak and grilled onions and peppers were packed with flavor. Next time we will stick with just the steak and skip the pork which turned out to be a thin dry slice of meat. Down the street, the pork tacos and flan were a good choice at Jalisco, which has order-at-the-counter service vs. table service at casa Alvarez.

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Shelter from the dirt storms: ad Astra Books and coffee in Salina, ks.

imageYes it really is blowing dirt here in the Smokey Hills of central Kansas,  with brown clouds above the pale green and tan wheat fields, the occasional wind-whipped tree and  wind turbine farm.

But in downtown Salina we stumbled upon a little oasis of alternative-ness, Ad Astra Coffee and books. Cozy wood and stone interior with old sofas and sun drenched plants, Good coffee, not-so-great bagels (but can’t fault them for trying), interesting book selection including tomes by resident world famous (no joke) Agriculture visionary Wes Jackson of the Salina-based Land Institute.  very welcome after a grim night in a musty room at The Days Inn along I-70.imageimageimage

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Go WuShock and the Wichita State Shockers!

WuShock: A True Original

Fun to see WuShock (above) – the world’s weirdest college team mascot – in the news WuShock in the New York Times and even better to see Wichita State in the N.C.A.A. basketball tournament. I know I’m supposed to be rooting for an Iowa team or U of Kansas (this IS a Jayhawks household) but my heart is with underdog Wichita State, which gets scant recognition compared to powerhouses like Kansas and Iowa, and with WuShock (for the record: a shock – or bundled pile – of wheat that looks like, um, a demented version of the Wizard of Oz’s scarecrow (below).

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What to see en route from Ames Iowa to Coffeyville Kansas?

 

Largest Community Rolled Ball of Twine in Cawker City, Kansas

From time to time, I field questions from friends like the one below (a Kansas native, I might add,  who is a longtime Iowa transplant.)

A friend is driving down to Coffeeville, Kansas from Ames and wants to know what weird and wonderful things he should stop and see along the way. So up your alley!
 
Is the biggest ball of string even remotely along the way? He’s willing to go a little off the beaten path, and loves quirky things.
 
What can you recommend?

Wow – that route is a challenge. If he takes 169 south from Kansas city – which appears to be the fastest route – he’ll just miss the Flint Hills, which are one of my favorite Kansas places. If he takes 69 south, another option, he’ll go through some places I remember as interesting – Fort Scott, Baxter Springs and Pittsburg. He should check out this story on southeast Kansas from the NYTimes Frugal Traveler done http://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/07/travel/in-kansas-museums-fried-chicken-and-yes-oz.html last summer.

 As for the aforementioned “biggest ball of string, ” it is actually “the second largest ball of twine” (or sometimes the largest depending on the definition) and it’s in Cawker City – in North Central Kansas so not on your friend’s route, alas.  How weird is it that I know this stuff?

Route 66 Soda Fountain, 2008 in Baxter Springs!

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Tale of 3 restaurants: tres amigos/dodge city; saigon/wichita; & story./prairie village

The “El Capitan” cattle drive monument, Dodge City

Our dinner tonight at story., an upscale new American cuisine restaurant, in a fancy shopping area in the Kansas City suburb of Prairie Village could not have differed more from dinner last night at Tres Amigos, on Wyatt Earp Blvd. in Dodge City. But both were good in their own way. story. Has a clean dramatic decor with dimly lit white walls and large pieces of understated contemporary art. I had a beautifully prepared and presented piece of red snapper, with a slightly crispy crust but light and moist inside, atop a bed of sautéed spinach, salty bits of pancetta and a light lemon wine sauce. another stand out was the braised short rib with gnocchi and onion rings. best of all was the company, a favorite uncle who lives in Kansas City.

Tres Amigos is a much humbler place with somewhat ordinary Mexican fare but it easily accommodated our party of nine on a holiday weekday. Today in Wichita we stopped at our favorite Vietnamese restaurant Saigon, which was even busier than usual. but as usual, the service was brisk and the food (#45, bun with charbroiled pork and egg roll!) was fresh and tasty. Discovered the shrimp chips this time and they are much better than the ones I try to make at home. We also stopped at our favorite middle eastern restaurant in Wichita , N&J market, to pick up some hummus and pitta chips to take home.

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Filed under DINING, Dodge City, Kansas, Kansas City, Kansas misc

Oklahoma joes thumbs up

We are breezing down two lane highway 156 towards Ellsworth Kansas on ChristMas eve. Nary another car or soul in sight. The fields are snowy, the sky is a sunless white-grey, the temperature is up to 25, who hoo! Better than the frigid sunny 9 degree weather that greeted us this morning in the icy parking lot of the Baymont Inn in Lawrence (where I slept fitfully on a too soft mattress.)

Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ was indeed in a gas station in Kansas City, Ks, which added to its street cred and quirky charm. (Pix below) The ribs and brisket were, as reported, excellent. On a Mpnday night, the line to order at the counter was long but moved fairly quickly and everyone was in a cheerful, pre-holiday mood. The ribs were meaty and moist, well seasoned, good sauce on the sweet side, akin to Gates. Also had good sides …spicy coleslaw, beans with chunks of beef in them, seasoned fries. We will be back!

This morning we had an excellent breakfast at Milton’s in Lawrence, stopped to get some goodies at the bakery Wheatfield’s (surprisingly delicious rugelah, a rustic rosemary bread, pecan raisin bread) then hit interstate 70 west. man this road is empty (although behind us somewhere are our kids in another car). This annual road trip to Wright, Kansas, this time of year, always feels like we are driving to the end of the earth.

The sky has just turned hazy and we are not sure if there is fog or blowing snow ahead.

 

 

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Filed under DINING, Kansas, Kansas City, Kansas misc, Uncategorized

New places to visit in Kansas!

Somehow I managed to miss a Kansas travel story by “the frugal traveler”  in the paper version of the New York Times Travel section a few weeks ago but I did spot the ipad version. Frugal Traveler visits Kansas.

I Married Adventure by Osa Johnson

The story includes many places familiar to people like me who are familiar with Kansas (Flint Hills, Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, Strong City, Cottonwood Falls, Council Grove, Pittsburg). But it also mentions several (see below)  that I need to check out during my next visit(s). Curious to see what the frugal traveler makes of my current home state – Iowa (which apparently was his next stop after Kansas.)

Osa with a gibbon in an airplane

In Pittsburg: Gebhardt Chicken Dinners (and the better-advertised Chicken Annie’s and Chicken Mary’s)

In Chanute:  the Martin and Osa Johnson Safari Museum (safarimuseum.com)

In Strong City: Ad Astra, a locavore-ish, vegetarian-friendly restaurant and bar

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