Category Archives: Tennessee

Nashville Cowboy Church, east Nashville shopping, RFD tv, 5 Spot

I had a Nashville day from start to finish and it was so much fun, even if there was torrential rain for much of the day. First stop, some Christian gospel music at the Nashville cowboy church held in a theater in a worn out strip mall near our hotel. Surely I was the only Jew in the room. But some fine music by, among other Johnny cash’s sister Joanne and Ernest Tubb’s nephew. I could have done without the forced prayer and prostelizing at the end but comes with the territory.

From there a completely different Nashville in the emerging east Nashville neighborhood where I had some of the best scrambled eggs ever, made with with gruyere and cream and hand cut bacon, thick slabs. Then I spent maybe two hours I one of the best craft/art galleries I have been to in a long time, art and invention. Fantastic assortment of jewelry, textiles, ceramics,glassware, exquisite little paintings of that when combined looked beautiful).

FROM there I went next door to another row of little shops in houses goodbye girls and hello boys – test vintage clothes and then to a mid century modern vintage/antique stoe next door, Wonders on Woodland. i now I have restocked my Xmas gift closet.

We went to a party at RFD tv (which means rural free delivery…a national AG cable tv station) and toured their studios. Fun. And tonight we ended by listening to great live rockabilly By Heath Haynes at the 5 spot club in east Nashville. Loving this trip.

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Marche artisan foods, opryland hotel, prince’s hot chicken shack, family wash live music. Nashville!

Very full day in Nashville where we arrived at about noon ( we could have arrived about two hours earlier if we had opted for a 45 minute connection at ohare…which we could have made, as it turns out.) we spent much of our time driving around in a light drizzle ( but hey it was almost 70 degrees!) trying to get our earrings. We had an excellent lunch at hipster hangout Marche artisan foods, ( photo below) cheerful, unpretentious, good food in east Nashville. Then we drove around the touristy section of the downtown district but couldn’t find a place to park. So we drove onto the gulch glitzy new lofts, the west side (end?) near vanderbilt university and then to fancy belle Meade (expecting Nicole Kidman to drive out of one of the mansions) and then down to the Loveless Cafe (see photos below), which was as I remembered it from 24 years ago but less remotely located ( alas, development nearby.)

We are in the enormous Gaylord opryland hotel and very pleased to have a room that actually looks out on the real world, not like the countless other rooms looking out at a simulated indoor world of gardens and mock courtyards. Then room is spacious, great beds, linens. No complaints ( though this is never a place I would have picked to stay. We are here because Dirck has a conference.)

Dinner was at prince’s hot chicken shack, a beloved hole in the wall with very spicy chicken (the mild was hot so can’t imagine what the higher levels do to your mouth) and very slow service. But quite a scene and good people watching. A mix of black people presumably locals and a few white college kids and tattooed people and tourists like us. !next stop, live music at the Family Wash, a fun place in east Nashville that I am guessing is a former laundromat. We heard an excellent set by a guy anted Cary Ott who sounded at times like James Taylor, Jeff tweedy, Bruce Hornsby and even boz Skaggs but mostly like himself. The signature shepherds pie looked great but we were too full of hot chicken to try it. But I did have an excellent local beer…chase pale and Dirck had yazoo.

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Off to Nashville…with umbrella

Nashville

Heading to Nashville tomorrow with my umbrella and a variety of clothes since the weather promises to be interesting. The high was 70 today and it’s in the 60s over the weekend but by Monday the high is 38. Go figure.  The lows start at 61 and drop by Monday to 28. There is one consistent feature: rain.

70°F Observed High 1:25 pm

61°F

Cloudy

Chance of rain:
20%
Wind:
S at 12 mph

Sat Jan 12

T-Showers69°61°

T-Showers

Chance of rain:
60%
Wind:
S at 15 mph

Sun Jan 13

Rain / Thunder61°33°

Rain / Thunder

Chance of rain:
80%
Wind:
NW at 12 mph

Mon Jan 14

Showers

38°

28°

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Nashville – the new “it” city. Who knew?

Can’t say that I knew Nashville was such a hip place when I signed on a few months ago to tag along when my husband goes there this weekend for a conference. But it did seem like an interesting place when I visited for a half day some 25 years ago and it seems like I’ve been reading a lot about it lately, in part due to the new TV show “Nashville.” But here comes the NYTimes pronoucing Nashville as the latest “it” city – following on the heels of Austin, Portland, Seattle etc. see below!

I also found a list of restaurant recommendations for East Nashville that I wish I’d seen earlier….(also see below)
One year in, still worth the weight.

BOLTON’S SPICY CHICKEN AND FISH 624 Main Street, (615) 254-8015.

THE CAT BIRD SEAT 1711 Division Street, thecatbirdseatrestaurant.com.

CITY HOUSE 1222 Fourth Avenue North, (615) 736-5838, cityhousenashville.com.

LAS PALETAS GOURMET POPSICLES 2905 12th Avenue South, (615) 386-2101.

MARGOT CAFé 1017 Woodland Street, (615) 227-4668, margotcafe.com.

MAS TACOS POR FAVOR 732 McFerrin Avenue, (615) 543-6271 myspace.,com/mastacos, @mastacos on Twitter.

NASHVILLE FARMERS’ MARKET 900 Rosa Parks Boulevard, (615) 880-2001, nashvillefarmersmarket.org, @nashfarmmarket on Twitter.

January 8, 2013

Nashville’s Latest Big Hit Could Be the City Itself

By

NASHVILLE — Portland knows the feeling. Austin had it once, too. So did Dallas. Even Las Vegas enjoyed a brief moment as the nation’s “it” city.

Now, it’s Nashville’s turn.

Here in a city once embarrassed by its Grand Ole Opry roots, a place that sat on the sidelines while its Southern sisters boomed economically, it is hard to find a resident who does not break into the goofy grin of the newly popular when the subject of Nashville’s status comes up.

Mayor Karl Dean, a Democrat in his second term, is the head cheerleader.

“It’s good to be Nashville right now,” he said during a recent tour of his favorite civic sites, the biggest of which is a publicly financed gamble: a new $623 million downtown convention center complex that is the one of the most expensive public projects in Tennessee history.

The city remains traditionally Southern in its sensibility, but it has taken on the luster of the current. On a Venn diagram, the place where conservative Christians and hipsters overlap would be today’s Nashville.

Flush with young new residents and alive with immigrants, tourists and music, the city made its way to the top of all kinds of lists in 2012.

A Gallup poll ranked it in the top five regions for job growth. A national entrepreneurs’ group called it one of the best places to begin a technology start-up. Critics admire its growing food scene. GQ magazine declared it simply “Nowville.”

And then there is the television show.”Nashville,”a song-filled ABC drama about two warring country divas, had its premiere in October with nine million viewers. It appears to be doing for the city of 610,000 people what the prime-time soap opera”Dallas”did for that Texas city in the ‘80s.

“You can’t buy that,” Mr. Dean said. “The city looks great in it.”

Different regions capture the nation’s fancy for different reasons. Sometimes, as with Silicon Valley, innovation and economic engines drive it. Other times, it’s a bold civic event, like the Olympics, or a cultural wave, like the way grunge music elevated Seattle.

Here in a fast-growing metropolitan region with more than 1.6 million people, the ingredients for Nashville’s rise are as much economic as they are cultural and, critics worry, could be as fleeting as its fame.

“People are too smug about how fortunate we are now,” said the Southern journalist John Egerton, 77, who has lived in Nashville since the 1970s.

“We ought to be paying more attention to how many people we have who are ill-fed and ill-housed and ill-educated,” he said.

Many will argue that the city’s schools need improvement, and although it remains more progressive on social issues than Tennessee as a whole, the city, with its largely white population, still struggles with a legacy of segregation and has had public battles over immigration and sexual orientation.From an economic standpoint, it has been a measured rise. When the housing boom hit the South, Nashville, long a sleepy capital city with a Bible Belt sensibility, did not reap the financial gains seen in cities like Atlanta, whose metropolitan region is more than three times its size.

But Nashville’s modest growth meant a softer fall and a quicker path out of recession. By July 2012, real estate closings were up 28 percent over the previous year. Unemployment in Davidson County, which includes Nashville, is about 5.7 percent, compared with 7.8 percent nationally, and job growth is predicted to rise by 18 percent in next five years, said Garrett Harper, vice president for research with the Nashville Chamber of Commerce.

He and others attribute Nashville’s stability and current economic health to a staid mix of employers in fields like health care management, religious publishing, car manufacturing and higher education, led by Vanderbilt University.

By some estimates, half of the nation’s health care plans are run by companies in the Nashville area.

“Health care is countercyclical,” Mr. Harper said. “It inoculates the city against a lot of the winds that blow.”

But the music industry is the bedrock of Nashville’s economy. In the past two decades, country music has grown into a national darling. The city has attracted musicians and producers whose work moves beyond the twang and heartache.

On a recent evening, Nashville’s once-seedy honky-tonk district was jammed with young hopefuls pulling guitars out of Hondas, a bus from “America’s Got Talent” and Aerosmith fans heading to the Bridgestone Arena.

It is not uncommon to see the power couple Keith Urban andNicole Kidmanshow up at a popular restaurant, or to pass Vince Gill on the street.

Music celebrities are attracted to a state with no income tax and a ready-made talent pool. But they also just like it.

Jennifer Nettles, of the country duo Sugarland, spent 17 years in Atlanta and has been dipping in and out of New York and Nashville for years. She recently bought a farm here, had a baby and is settling in with her husband, Justin Miller.

“Part of what is really attractive about Nashville right now is that it isn’t Atlanta, and I love Atlanta,” she said. “There’s a bit of charm and a richness a city the size of Nashville allows for.”

As if to underscore Nashville’s position in the nation’s musical hierarchy, the city hosted the annual Grammy nomination concert in December. It was the first time the show was not held in Los Angeles.

But to be a truly great city, some skeptics argue, it has to be a place that tends to its residents first and tourists second.

The city’s politicians are banking on the tourists. At the center of the plan is the Music City Center, a huge convention center whose main section is shaped like a giant guitar laid on its back.

It sits on 19 downtown acres and is attached to both the Country Music Hall of Fame and an 800-room, $270 million Omni Hotel, which is expected to open in the fall.

To pay for it all, the city offered generous tax breaks and based public financing on increased hotel and rental car fees and taxes. To lure the hotel, for example, the city discounted property taxes by more than 60 percent for 25 years.

The idea was to help the city land bigger conventions, like the National Rifle Association conference, which will bring 48,000 people to the city in 2015.

But using generous economic incentives and relying on conventions has been called an outdated economic strategy.

“This was probably a good idea in 1985. And probably a good idea in 1995, said Emily Evans, a member of the region’s Metropolitan Council. “But in 2012, the momentum for that kind of economic development has passed.”

She once called the convention center a “riverboat gamble.”

“In giving away your tax base for the purpose of expanding your tax base in the future,” Ms. Evans said, “you make it difficult to deliver on the fundamentals, the things that make your city livable, like parks and roads and schools.”

Mr. Dean, a former city lawyer who became mayor in 2007 and led the city’s recovery from historic floods in 2010, said the project, which got under way during the recession, has been a fight every step of the way.

“The gains for the city are real and tangible,” he said.

The mayor has orchestrated more than a dozen tax incentive deals over the past few years. Most recently, he arranged a $66 million incentive package to help the health care giant HCA Holdings move part of its Nashville operations to new midtown high-rise buildings.

He acknowledges that more needs to be done on transportation and education, but in the meantime, he, like most of Nashville’s residents, is enjoying its ride.

“I love the rhythm of this town and the pace of it and the tone of it,” said Mr. Egerton, the writer. “I think Nashville is a big unfinished song.”

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Bluebird Cafe in Nashville – saturday show sold out fast….but lots of other options!

By the time I remembered to try to reserve a table for this Saturday night’s shows (both the 6:30 and 9:30 p.m. shows)  at the Bluebird Cafe in Nashville (10:40 a.m. on the preceding Monday) the show was already sold out (reservations were accepted as of 8 a.m.). Wow – that was fast. Maybe we’ll try for Sunday or Monday – which don’t have advance tix sales from what I can tell. But other places sound like they have great music – and music that’s probably more my cup of tea (alt-country vs. country) including the 5 Spot in East Nashville. (Other options: Family Wash (alt-country),  Layla’s Blue Grass Inn or Wildhorse Saloon – for line dancing and lessons at 9:30 p.m.

I’m starting to develop a game plan for our visit: we arrive Saturday – and since that’s the one day my husband is conference-free, I figure we’ll do some of the famous country music sights, try to catch some live music Saturday night in East Nashville and eat at Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack (since that’s the only day it’s open that works for my husband’s schedule.) Not sure about dinner. There’s a few places with potential in East Nashville, including a vegetarian restaurant Wild Cow and Marche Artisan Foods. I had hoped to eat at a bunch of down home rib and/or fried chicken southern cooking spots but some are only open for lunch or are closed on Sunday/Monday. And one can only eat fried chicken so many times during one day (or one weekend). Sunday seems like the day to explore the shops and galleries in East Nashville, since they’re closed on Monday. (And I’m hoping to go to the gospel country music service at the Cowboy Church Sunday morning.) Then maybe dinner at the The Loveless Cafe (more fried chicken) or Monell’s (ditto)

Monday seems like the day to go on a tour of Belle Meade Plantation and it’s the only day I can have lunch at Arnold’s Country Kitchen (which is only open on weekdays for lunch). There are live music options Sunday and Monday nights at the 5 Spot (especially it’s Monday night “Movin’ Dance Party”) and the Bluebird Cafe….

This is the blurb to go with the photo above:

GQ Calls The 5 Spot’s Keep on Movin’ Dance Party ‘the Most Stylish Party in America’

Posted by on Mon, Mar 19, 2012 at 5:50 PM

Don’t adjust your monitors: The 5 Spot’s little old Monday night Keep on Movin’ Dance Party — a weekly soiree I once referred to as Nashville’s “Best Hipster Meat Market” — can be found gracing the pages of the April 2012 issue of GQ. A featured called “The GQ 100″ (billed on the cover as “your ultimate source for the best clothes, shops, trends and smart tips on how to pull it all together”) doesn’t appear to be online anywhere, but in the picture you see above, you’ll find that The 5 Spot’s parties landed at No. 92 on the list:

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Choosing down home vs. gourmet food (and music) in Nashville

After several recent trips in major foodie towns (New Orleans, New York, Chicago, Lima, Cusco, Arequipa) where I’ve eaten my share of gourmet meals at upscale, creative restaurants, I’m thinking I’ll stick more with the more down home simple stuff in Nashville. Not that the city doesn’t have its share of upscale creative restaurants but it also seems to have some great bbq and fried chicken joints – and to be honest this simple stuff is often my favorite when we eat out here and there. Even in Peru and New Orleans, I often was just as happy – if not happier – with a cup of gumbo or some chiccarones (fried bits of pork) than I was with the more complicated fancier fare. So here are some of my preliminary picks for Nashville: – Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack – where I’m told the medium spicy fried chicken may be too hot to handle (so maybe I’ll play it safe with the mild.) And the chess pie sounds like a must.

– The Loveless Cafe (because I’m pretty sure this is where I went years ago with my dad) for fried chicken, homemade biscuits etc.

Ellison Place Soda Shop for a chocolate shake. Retro before there was retro (in biz since 1939.)

For music I’m thinking: The Family Wash for alt-everything or the 5 Spot for rockabilly, rock and country; or Ryman Auditorium; or the Bluebird Cafe; or the Wildhorse Saloon (if I can convince my husband to go line dancing…and maybe even if I can’t.) And yes, I’ve been to the newer Grand Ole Opry once – and that was probably enough (although we’re staying in the mega hotel where the theater is located.) I’m also intrigued by the Cowboy Church – which has a gospel show on Sunday mornings. One of the best places I ever heard music was at the Memphis church of Rev. Al Green (yes that Al Green).

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Collecting string – so to speak – on Nashville

It’s looking like I might tag along on my husband’s business trip to Nashville in January so I’m starting to collect some string on the place. I’ve only been there once – very briefly during a road trip with my dad in 1989, although long enough to go to the Grand Ole Opry and to a really cool old roadhouse for dinner. I found two Nashville ideas  in a recent issue of an inflight magazine during our trip to Peru (and since I’m starting to write for inflight magazines I like them more than ever!) Here they are:

– Arnold’s Country Kitchen for roast beef, onion rings and tomatoes…and one of my husband’s favorites, chicken fried steak. also known for fried chicken, fried green tomatoes, cornbread (grilled or baked) and banana pudding. 605 8th Avenue South; 615-256-4455

– Layla’s Blue Grass Inn for live music!

Southern Diner Restaurants: Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville, TN

 

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Clarksdale Mississippi – again

Clarksdale Mississippi gets a nod from me for the second day in a row, oddly, after I read this morning that a restaurant there bankrolled by the actor Morgan Freeman, who is a Clarksdale native,   is closing after ten years in operation. My meal there was about seven years ago,come to think of it, while I was doing a writing project in the Mississippi Delta and it was clear that Madidi, the restaurant which specialized in “Americanized French cuisine” (I remember it as Southern fine dining, with prices to match) would never break even in such an impoverished place. It was clearly a labor of love. Guess the cast and crew of “The Help,” which filmed in Clarksdale, also couldn’t save it from extinction. Last I heard Freeman does have another restaurant there – a popular blues bar, pool hall and restaurant called Ground Zero (see photos above).  He opened another branch in Memphis, where my son and I listened to a very good female singer a few years ago.

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Where to eat in Memphis’ Germantown…

This comes courtesy of my friend Kathy who is on a road trip with her family from Des Moines to Houston via some of my favorite places, including most recently,   Memphis.  Before they left, Kathy’s family got some road food recommendations from a well-known BBQer in Des Moines who owns Woody’s.  Here’s the first restaurant they tried in Memphis’ Germantown area. Can’t go wrong with a place that offers complimentary deviled eggs!!

The Germantown Commissary, 2290 S. Germantown Road in the Germantown area of Memphis. According to the menu, a commissary is another term for a Southern general store. Interesting decor, with twinkle lights, and bleached animal skulls, movie posters and old tin signs on the wood-paneled walls. Great dry-rub ribs and tamales smothered in chili and cheese. Excellent coleslaw. Almost every dish comes with a deviled egg. Homemade lemonade and sweet tea. We didn’t have room for dessert, but they looked great: tall layer cakes and cream pies.

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Lucky in Memphis

Word from my stepdaughter E that she visited Rev. Al Green’s church, the Full Gospel Tabernacle in Memphis, last Sunday morning – and the Reverend (the famous soul-singer/pastor) was in!  Which means that the music his church congregants perform each Sunday was all the more fantastic. My son and I visited the church almost two years ago and had a great time, listening to one terrific gospel singer and musician after another, but Rev. Al  was away on tour, promoting his latest album.  In addition to the sunday morning service, there’s a Thursday night choir rehearsal open to the public – from what I can gather from the church’s website. Good to know.

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