Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

More on Decorah, Iowa

Just for the record, we tried a few other restaurants along Water Street in Decorah – good sandwiches (although not the swiftest service) at Ede’s Gourmet and the Angry Pickle Deli (although I didn’t get an pickle, angry or not); and potent wake-me-up coffee and light not-too-sweet lemon poppy muffin tops at Java John’s, a welcoming,  bright and cheerful coffee house (vs. a dark, smokey,  grumpy, surly or hipper-than-thou coffee house, I’ve been to them all.)

Would have tried the sophisticated Rubaiyat:Food for Thought restaurant again (I had a great hamburger at the bar there last year) if it had been open Sunday night. We also dropped by the lovely Hotel Winneshiek which seems to be holding its own. (I always worry about these beautifully restored luxury boutique hotels in small towns after watching the exceptional Hotel Pattee in Perry, Ia. struggle.)

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Filed under DINING, Iowa, LODGING

Canoeing on the Upper Iowa River

Just back from northeast Iowa where my daughter, a friend and her teen-age son, rented a small cabin and two canoes at Chimney Rock Campgrounds near Cresco and Bluffton, Ia.  We requested a two-hour canoe ride but it was a lot less – largely I think because the river was so full and the current fast. We barely had to paddle – just steer every once in a while to keep from banging into a low-hanging tree along the shore. We stopped at a sandbar/rock-bar and body-surfed a patch of the river, allowing ourselves to get caught up and swept by the current which was fun albeit a tad scary since we had to land and stand against the same said current but no problems – two of us were/are lifeguards (I’m a little rusty but my friends 17-year-old son is a newbie.) The water was refreshing, not too cold. Paddling past the high stone bluffs rimmed with lush green trees was lovely.

Decorah is definitely in the running for Iowa’s pretty small-town college town – full of Queen Anne homes and interesting shops and restaurants along Water Street (the main street – not “Main Street” one street to the west). It was quiet on a Sunday night – except inside Mabe’s Pizza where half the town seemed to be eating – big families, little families, young kids, older folks. Nothing fancy but decent pizza with an interesting thin crust that bordered on a cracker in parts (and the 17-year-old teen in our group ate a cheeseburger served with a dollop of peanut butter. Sounds disgusting but he said it wasn’t bad. My daughter and I had the minipizzas and two drinks – $14 for dinner. not bad.

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Filed under Adventure travel, Iowa

Dreaming of: Northern Michigan

With two weeks to go before our vacation on Big Glen Lake near Glen Arbor, Mi., we’re starting to line up some things – including a restaurant to meet our relatives (who are staying at the Sylvan Inn) at on Saturday night. Trattoria Funistrada http://www.trattoriafunistrada.com/ comes well recommended so will try to book there – it’s only 9 minutes from our cottage.

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Filed under DINING, LODGING, Michigan

the best b&b around Traverse City

We’re vacationing in Glen Arbor, Mi. in August and renting a cottage on Big Glen Lake that, alas, is not big enough to include relatives from suburban Detroit who we hope are meeting up with us.  So I’ve been looking online at the lodgings around the area, trying to find a nice b&b or inn that’s affordable, not too far from us, and has decor that’s not too goopy. My favorites so far – although some are too far  – (and this is just judging from website pix) are:

www.tesoroinn.com/ (too far, alas)
www.kornerkottage.com (recommended by NYT ; also too far)
http://www.windinthepinesbb.com/

Other options: The Homestead, The Sylvan Inn and Glen Arbor   Bed & Breakfast

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Filed under LODGING, Michigan

Social B&B networks – the ultimate test:Iowa

Granted, my criteria for the usefulness of Social B&B networks is a bit Iowa-centric – but be that as it may, the only network I could find that included listings for places like Des Moines or Lawrence Kansas is…..airb&B.com

So good for them – and me. Interestingly, since the NYTimes story on these sites ran last Sunday, the number of Iowa options has grown from about 7 to 12. Not all have what I consider to be all-important photos of the lodging – and at least one of the photos was off-putting (two women standing in a worn and cluttered living room with a sagging couch draped in an old quilt. No thank you.)

But there are some great-looking options – a farm house in Cumming outside Des Moines ($30 a night); a beautiful cottage with a front porch overlooking the Mississippi in Dubuque ($100), a 19th-century restored cabin in Decorah ($100), some intriguing vintage trailers ($75) in the woods outside Sioux City owned by some artists and a pretty “historic home” in Iowa City ($55). There’s also an odd Quonset hut dwelling in Dickens, Ia  (in northwest Iowa near Spencer) that apparently doubles as an artists’ studio/gallery space. ($50)

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Filed under b&b, Des Moines, Iowa, LODGING

frustrating search for cabin/canoe in northeast Iowa

I’ve been trying for two days to reach a cabin/canoe rental place near Decorah in beautiful northeast Iowa to see if it has anything available on Aug. 1 for four people (me, a friend and our two teens visiting a nearby college) but it’s been frustrating. I’ve left emails and phone messages and heard nothing back. I did check with the tourism office and the place is still open but sparsely staffed (they’re probably all out canoeing.)

I can’t understand why businesses like this offer ways to communicate then don’t respond. The email address is particularly frustrating because when you try to use it up pops a message saying you need to go through a screening in order to use the email.  Huh?

Meanwhile, I heard about another place and tried to contact it via the Internet but you need a Facebook account to reach them – which I don’t have and don’t want.

Come on people – don’t you want my business?

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Filed under Adventure travel, Iowa, LODGING

Portaging a bike on the Great Western Trail in central Iowa

I’ve portaged  a canoe, hauling it on my shoulders across land between one lake and another, but I never portaged a bicycle until yesterday on the Great Western Trail just north of Martinsdale, Iowa.  Fortunately, we didn’t have to haul our bikes  far – just lift them up and between the branches of a tree that had fallen across the trail, completely blocking it. The trail was  rough in general, with fallen twigs and branches, thanks to a ferocious storm in the wee hours of Sunday morning that downed trees all over the metro and caused power outages.

We should have taken this into consideration when we choose a trail to ride on a few hours later.

The good news is after we portaged our bikes, we encountered a truck on the trail – a rare and jarring sight – that appeared to be public works of some sort.  An hour later, on our ride back to Martinsdale, the fallen tree was gone and we breezed right through – no further portaging required. Impressive service!

All this made me wonder if there is a trail hot line you can call to find out the condition on a trail – or to report a problem like a fallen tree.

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Filed under bike trails, Des Moines, Iowa

Shakespeare – Stratford (Ont), Ashland (OR), Des Moines

Shakespeare is here, there, everywhere and we’ve seen some of it – unfortunately not in Stratford, Ontario for about ten years. I used to go there a lot as a kid growing up in suburban Detroit and judging from a recent NYTimes review of “Stratford’s” latest season it’s as good as ever with Christopher Plummer, at age 80 no less, among the performers. In March we saw a very modern Hamlet at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland

And on Thursday,  we saw a lively production of “The Merry Wives of Windsor” (a rather silly play methinks) performed by the Repertory Theater of Iowa on the lovely grounds of  Salisbury House, an old English stone and brick mansion in, of all places,  Des Moines that provides a perfect backdrop for a Shakespearean play.  A local tycoon built Salisbury House in the 1920s,  inspired by a visit to the King’s House in Salisbury, England, which dates back to the 13th century according to Wikipedia. (And judging from the pix of Kings House, the Des Moines replica is pretty darned close.) Catch the “Merry Wives” while  (and if) you can – performances through this Sunday…

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Filed under Canada, Des Moines, England and U.K., Oregon, theater

Traverse City, MI – one of best beach towns

More accolades for the area we’re visiting in northern Michigan. In June, AOl.com named Traverse City one of the best beach towns. Does “up north” usually get this good press or am I just noticing it because we’re going there or is there a move afoot to help Michigan’s battered economy through increased tourism? Or all of the above?

8. Traverse City, Michigan
Traverse City’s tawny beaches and towering dunes merit the moniker Malibu of Michigan. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore features wilderness islands, trails through diverse ecosystems, and preserved historic farmsteads. This part of Michigan has a deep history and South Manitou Island, reachable by ferry, recreates pioneer days from old schoolhouse to 1871 lighthouse while area museums celebrate everything from steam railroads to Scandinavian heritage. Traverse City’s Victorian downtown boasts hundreds of galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Foodies should pick up a Tasty Traverse guide if they want to chat with brewers and bakers, fromageres and fishermen. There are also those great American summer activities like mini-golf, bumper boats, go karts, and video arcades. Early July brings the famous National Cherry Festival with arts-and-crafts fairs, air shows, and cherries baked, pressed, and jammed in every way possible.

Tip:
The picturesque Old Mission and Leelanau Peninsulas north of town proved surprisingly conducive to grape-growing, notable for Rieslings, Pinot Noirs, and ice wines (try Chateau Grand Traverse).

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Leland, Mi – one of 10 best summer lake towns!

More good press about the area we’re visiting in northern Michigan in August! Budget Travel named the town of Leland as one of the 10 best summer lake towns. We’ll be staying nearby in Glen Arbor, Mi – which I picked in part because it’s near Leland (and the Leelanau Pennisula) and cheaper to stay than Leland.

Here’s the blurb:

America’s 10 best summer lake towns

by Beth Collins
updated 7/10/2010 1:02:22 AM ET

Leland, Mich., on Lake Michigan and Lake Leelanau
Leland rests on a peninsula between Lake Michigan and petite Lake Leelanau. Families who’ve been spending the summer here for generations often arrive by boat and never set foot in a car during their stay. The town’s roots as a fishing village aren’t hard to spot — the main attraction here is Fishtown, a cluster of old shanties converted into shops and restaurants, now a lakeside historic district. Locals love the pretzel-bread sandwiches at the Village Cheese Shanty (199 E. River Rd., villagecheeseshanty.com), and kids never let parents walk by the Dam Candy Store without stopping for an ice cream cone or chocolate-covered cherries (197 W. River Rd.). The 107-year-old Riverside Inn and Restaurant, one block from downtown, has a homey feel but is classy enough to offer an extensive international wine list and dining on the deck with views of the Leland River (302 River St., theriverside-inn.com, 231-256-9971, from $100). If you do bring a car, make time to explore the wineries of northern Michigan. The pinot noir from Chateau Fontaine, just three miles outside Leland, has a vibrant berry flavor — it’s the perfect summer wine (2290 S. French Rd., 231-256-0000, chateaufontaine.com).

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Filed under Michigan