Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

The real Grant Wood? And another way of looking at his Iowa landscapes…

There’s a new biography out about famous American (and Iowan) painter Grant Wood (R. Tripp Evans’s “Grant Wood: A Life”) and a review in the NYTimes reports it doesn’t paint the typical portrait of Grant as the “simple, homespun, rustic Iowan he may have seemed to be.” And it questions Midwest travel marketing that welcomes people to “Grant Wood Country” and Wood’s vision “of the values that made this country great!”

Instead, the book reportedly argues that Grant and his work have another side – that’s more shall we say eccentric or contrarian even sensual and sly.  Those rolling hills of Anamosa County depicted in his famous painting “Stone City?” – the author says they unmistakably refer to rounded mens’ buttocks (Grant, while married to a woman, was homosexual we’re told) and I won’t even mention what a field of sprouting cornstalks represents.  Go ahead, take a guess.

It does have me wondering more about the Grant Wood poster we have hanging over our bed that shows three dour old Daughters of the American Revolution holding tea cups. I’ve always found it amusing but now could it mean something else? See: http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/04/books/04book.html?scp=1&sq=Grant%20Wood&st=cse

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Three great fall drives – one obvious; two not

Couldn’t help but be amused by three perfect fall drives recommended by People Magazine. I’ve been on all three – which is not what many could claim, I’d guess. The first is a no-brainer: Highway 1, must-see stop: Big Sur. The second isa drive along the Mississippi River, with a must-see stop : Dubuque, Iowa, which is one of my favorite cities in Iowa (and this is a drive I wrote about for the New York Times travel section several years ago.) The third drive was even more of a surprise: Highway 50 through the middle of the country. Must-see stop: Dodge City, Ks.  (With all due respect to my in-laws who live in and around Dodge, I don’t buy this one…)

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Filed under California, Dodge City, Iowa, Kansas misc

cedar rapids eating options

You never know when fate might bring you to Cedar Rapids – and you’re hungry when you arrive – so here are a few restaurant options I found in the latest Edible Iowa magazine:

– La Salsita, 700 1st Ave. 319-365-9733 (Mexican)

– Gyro Hut, 1455 Mount Vernon Rd., 319-364-1959 (fully loaded gyros)

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Wine, beer, hard cider in the Leelanau Pennisula, Mi.

During our visit to the Leelanau Peninsula last month, we visited only one winery (Black Star) and weren’t impressed (although pretty place.)  But my sister J and her husband want to go winery hopping up there this month so here’s one suggestion – based entirely on a knowledgeable friend’s review of the wine, not the winery persay: Forty-five North Vineyard and Winery – which gets its name from being located on the 45th parallel – is good wine, we’re told. So maybe the winery will be worth a visit too. see http://www.fortyfivenorth.com Tasting Room Hours are Mon-Sat, 11-6
Sun, 12-5

Another option: visit a hard cider maker. Tandem Ciders – near Black Star – looked like a neat place but it was closed when we dropped by. The season is more likely to be happening in September. We also found two local beers we liked – North Peak (out of Traverse City) and Bell’s (from Kalamazoo). Bottoms up!


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A good bike ride in Des Moines

We made a nice new loop on our bike ride Monday – starting on the Urbandale trail then heading north on the newly finished trestle-to-trestle trail into Johnston, which  petered out too early at an ice cream stand – but then we cut through some housing developments and rode on too-busy NW 62nd street to hook up to the Neal Smith trail which we took to the Butterfly Garden at Saylorville  Lake (some of it on recently improved trail), then headed back on the Neal Smith trail to the bridge that connects back to MLK Blvd. and the Urbandale trail.

A little improvisational but it worked and was a fun interesting ride.

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Des Moines

The best bike trail in Iowa City – still looking

We tried again last weekend to cobble out a decent bike ride via trail in Iowa City and did only slightly better this time than last time – a few years ago. Part of it has to do with the lingering devastation from the 2008 flood – which wiped out some of the trail along the Iowa River – not to mention several major arts buildings including Hancher Auditorium. (It was sobering to pass by those hollow wrecked buildings.)

Part of it is that Iowa City doesn’t have the trail system of a place like Des Moines to begin with – and no casino revenues like in DM to construct and pave trails. We did begin at the southern end of the Iowa River Corridor trail south of town and it got off to a pleasant enough start – a tree-lined winding trail along the river but then it got diffuse and hard to follow around campus and when we picked it up again at the city park north of Hancher, the trail petered out into  haphazardly marked residential streets and  then it dumped us out with no further explanation – just as happened during our previous ride – on a commercial strip under construction (again still-recovering from the 2008 flood). We ended up taking a sharp right and winding through a very odd housing development – what’s called the Peninsula  Neighborhood – that looked completely out of place with mock-old urban architecture in a rural setting. It felt like a movie set. Granted the brick rowhouses and single-family new-old home cottages and bungalows are  attractive – but looklike they belongin Baltimore or maybe Washington D.C.

We did manage to make the ride into a bit of a loop, riding past the housing development and a golf course to the north end of the city park where we rode through downtown and campus to catch the trail back to our car.

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Iowa City

Beau city, beau hotel – Talloires, France

My brother and his wife are going to one of our favorite places in October – the beautiful villages of  Talloires and Annecy in eastern France, south of Geneva.  We haven’t been there since 1989 but glad to see that the hotel we stayed in Talloires is still there – Hotel Beau Site (and it is indeed a beautiful sight/site.) http://www.beausite-talloires.com/index-en.php.

As I recall the hotel is near the French campus of – surprisingly – Tufts University. Now there’s a junior year abroad I’d enjoy.

Good reading while you’re there:  Hotel du Lac a Booker Prize winning novel (1984) by Anita Brookner – set in  Geneva. I think I was reading it at the time.

From my diary: “Talloires is a lovely town – the prettiest on Lac d’Annecy as far as I can tell. There is no or very little modern development. The small village is one curving street with old stone houses and a few cafes and shops. There’s  a small waterfront down the hill, bordered by three or four hotels and five or six stone private homes. Our hotel has a big landscaped garden that leads to a long green lawn that stretches to the water. The lake looks a darker blue than we’ve seen earlier and the mountains are smaller but in some ways more dramatic because they begin as rolling green meadows and forest then end at the top with a jagged sheer rock face jutting out like some dramatic monument set against the sky.”

“We spent the morning walking around the fruit and veg market held each Tuesday in the old city of Annecy. It was lovely- beautiful narrow streets crowded with stalls filled with red tomatoes,  peaches, olives, cheese; two canals lined with flower boxes. We ate lunch at an outdoor cafe alongside one of the canals. Then drove to see Gorge du Fier, a dramatic gorge, (http://www.gorgesdufier.com/en/faq.html)  and a nearby chateau. Pretty drive.”

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One more Northern Michigan tip

A woman who runs a chocolate shop in Empire, Mi. recommended another website for renting places in that area – vrbo.com (which stands for “vacation rentals by owner” – she says it cuts out the middle-man/woman fee. worth a try although i was happy w/our visitupnorth.com rental.

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Filed under LODGING, Michigan

When we next return to Glen Arbor, Mi.

At the end of most vacations, I always have a list of things I wish I’d done and hope to do next time (like the time I went to Spain and skipped Grenada – although I did get to Seville. Someday.)

So here’s my list for the Glen Arbor area:

1) canoe or kayak on the Crystal River. Our tubing on the Platte was a bit of a bust – too slow and sleepy. The Crystal River looks fun – narrower and more winding and mysterious. And we’ll skip the tubes next time.

2) visit the Old Mission Peninsula, especially the general store in an old  wigwam.

3) visit Traverse City – we didn’t even get close to the place.

4) check out the towns of Maple City and Cedar something or other. (uh oh, I’m already forgetting names.)

5) do more hiking on the dunes and the other ride with the ranger on Point Oneida.

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Leaving northern Michigan

A huge storm knocked out the internet access at our cottage on Big Glen Lake so I’m running behind in my blogging. Yesterday we took a very short hike at Empire Bluff for another spectacular view of the lakeshore and dunes, then checked out Esch road Beach – a relatively remote beach known for nude bathers (although we saw none.)

Later D and I rode our bikes from the cottage to Glen Arbor and then to Glen Haven which has a little maritime museum and a couple of old restored buildings, plus a lovely beach. We stopped at Cherry Republic in Glen Arbor for a drink and some free samples of dried cherries in various forms. Kitschy place but fun and generous spirit. Bumped into Ranger Ryan – who we’d gone on a bike tour with the day before – and he seemed a bit taken aback that we spotted him in civilian gear. Also stopped at Becky Thatcher’s Jewelry design which has gorgeous jewelry made with local stones – including Petoskey stones, which I failed to find on my own, and a pretty blue/green stone from Leland that I”m told is not technically a stone.

The huge storm rolled in around dinner time and fortunately we’d already decided NOT to cook out. We went to Art’s Tavern, the local hang out in Glen Arbor which was jammed packed but we managed to cram into a booth after a half hour wait and had the best cheeseburgers of our trip (they made mine rare!). More tomorrow. we’re safely in Chicago now although D is still searching for a parking spot.

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Filed under DINING, Michigan