Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Traverse City, MI – one of best beach towns

More accolades for the area we’re visiting in northern Michigan. In June, AOl.com named Traverse City one of the best beach towns. Does “up north” usually get this good press or am I just noticing it because we’re going there or is there a move afoot to help Michigan’s battered economy through increased tourism? Or all of the above?

8. Traverse City, Michigan
Traverse City’s tawny beaches and towering dunes merit the moniker Malibu of Michigan. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore features wilderness islands, trails through diverse ecosystems, and preserved historic farmsteads. This part of Michigan has a deep history and South Manitou Island, reachable by ferry, recreates pioneer days from old schoolhouse to 1871 lighthouse while area museums celebrate everything from steam railroads to Scandinavian heritage. Traverse City’s Victorian downtown boasts hundreds of galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Foodies should pick up a Tasty Traverse guide if they want to chat with brewers and bakers, fromageres and fishermen. There are also those great American summer activities like mini-golf, bumper boats, go karts, and video arcades. Early July brings the famous National Cherry Festival with arts-and-crafts fairs, air shows, and cherries baked, pressed, and jammed in every way possible.

Tip:
The picturesque Old Mission and Leelanau Peninsulas north of town proved surprisingly conducive to grape-growing, notable for Rieslings, Pinot Noirs, and ice wines (try Chateau Grand Traverse).

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Leland, Mi – one of 10 best summer lake towns!

More good press about the area we’re visiting in northern Michigan in August! Budget Travel named the town of Leland as one of the 10 best summer lake towns. We’ll be staying nearby in Glen Arbor, Mi – which I picked in part because it’s near Leland (and the Leelanau Pennisula) and cheaper to stay than Leland.

Here’s the blurb:

America’s 10 best summer lake towns

by Beth Collins
updated 7/10/2010 1:02:22 AM ET

Leland, Mich., on Lake Michigan and Lake Leelanau
Leland rests on a peninsula between Lake Michigan and petite Lake Leelanau. Families who’ve been spending the summer here for generations often arrive by boat and never set foot in a car during their stay. The town’s roots as a fishing village aren’t hard to spot — the main attraction here is Fishtown, a cluster of old shanties converted into shops and restaurants, now a lakeside historic district. Locals love the pretzel-bread sandwiches at the Village Cheese Shanty (199 E. River Rd., villagecheeseshanty.com), and kids never let parents walk by the Dam Candy Store without stopping for an ice cream cone or chocolate-covered cherries (197 W. River Rd.). The 107-year-old Riverside Inn and Restaurant, one block from downtown, has a homey feel but is classy enough to offer an extensive international wine list and dining on the deck with views of the Leland River (302 River St., theriverside-inn.com, 231-256-9971, from $100). If you do bring a car, make time to explore the wineries of northern Michigan. The pinot noir from Chateau Fontaine, just three miles outside Leland, has a vibrant berry flavor — it’s the perfect summer wine (2290 S. French Rd., 231-256-0000, chateaufontaine.com).

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The High Trestle Trail – central Iowa

We have now ridden the entire 20 miles of the High Trestle trail – and it’s a nice addition to the trail offerings in this area. Earlier we did the Ankeny to Slater portion. Yesterday we did the Slater to just past Madrid bit – and it was a pleasant trail through wide open cornfields, with a few portions canopied by trees. Just past Madrid the smooth concrete trail goes native – becoming a bumpy gravel trail that leads for about a mile to the Des Moines River and the new High Trestle Trail bridge which is really great. It’s not done yet but we were surprised that we could walk – and even ride if we want – across it. We parked our bikes at the edge and walked onto the bridge to catch the glorious view of the broad river and tree-covered banks, with the occasional motorboat speeding underneath the bridge. A young couple rode their bikes east across the bridge and reported that there was a gravel trail/road on the other side, to date. How great it will be when the bridge opens and the trail going further west is paved!

We had a nice picnic in a pretty little town park in Madrid, near the public library. No one there, just us and the flies.

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Iowa City restaurant recommendation

The new Motley Cow in Iowa City – in a modern building with a plate glass front – didn’t look as interesting as the old funky Motley Cow in Iowa City but we tried it last week for lunch (when Devotay, a favorite tapas place across the street, was, alas, closing by 2 p.m.  – close to when we arrived) and it was still very good. I had a beautifully cooked piece of salmon (moist on the inside but not raw, crisp on the outside but not dry) atop a bed of spring greens with a light cumin-buttermilk dressing and capers. My daughter’s dish escapes me but was good too. So thumbs up.

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Paris restaurant recommendation

Our friends A & N are just back from Paris where they enjoyed eating at Le Bistrot Du 7Eme, located at 56 Boulevard de La Tour Maubourg.  They both loved the Trout Meuniere, the scallop pate and the 25 Euros fixed price menu.

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Transporation between Chicago and Traverse City, Mi.

I’m trying to find an economical (as always) way to get my son from Traverse City, Mi. to chicago (and ultimately Des Moines) in mid-August. He can take the megabus from Chicago to Des Moines for $10 (I LOVE that bus!) but the first leg of his trip is problematic. No bus service of any kind, as far as I can tell. A one way plane tix is over $600. Another option is for him and his older sister (who is 25 so she can rent a car) to rent a car at the traverse city airport for $115 and drive back to Chicago. Then he’ll catch the bus from there. Wish there was a megabus between Traverse City and Chicago!

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“affordable” NYC hotels – sort of

We’re talking “affordable boutique” hotels in NYC – and the NYTimes ran a list of them last Sunday. Except that they didn’t seem all that affordable, were in sometimes undesireable locations, and several seemed quite claustrophobic and/or sterile. All this for $159 to $269.  The one that sounded most appealing is Eventi in Chelsea ($249 right now; $399 starting next fall – hardly “affordable”).

But after an unpleasant experience at a trendy affordable boutique hotel in San Fransisco – which despite its trendy art and toiletries felt like an insufficiently tarted-up  hotel for transients with still-tiny rooms and still-narrow halls  – I’d prefer for my money an affordable non-boutique hotel –  with less “style,” and more space and comfort.

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A review: the Megabus from Chicago to Des Moines

I planned to blog from the road yesterday – specifically while cruising along Interstate 80 from Chicago to Des Moines in the Megabus but alas, the bus’s much-ballyhooed free WiFi was on the blink.  The driver didn’t know why but said this happens occasionally. Otherwise,  the bus ride was just fine – and for the $10 fare, better than fine. (Some people paid as little as $1 for the ride, a few others got two tix for $8 total. Fare comparisons dominated the chitchat amongst passengers. )

The bus departed on time (5 p.m.) from Chicago at the crowded Megabus stop just south of Union Station and Jackson Street, on Canal Street – and it arrived in Des Moines about 35 minutes late, which was no big deal. The bus was clean, the seats comfortable, the air not too cold or  too hot. The driver was courteous and informative, taking the time to fill us in on bits and bobs, like the one scheduled pit-stop at a small gas station on I-80 near Davenport.

A few minor quibbles, some beyond Megabus’s control, that  have more to do with the nature of cheap bus transportation in general.  The bus stop in Chicago was somewhat chaotic, with a large crowd fanning out across half a block as a succession of buses pulled up – one bus going to St. Louis, another to somewhere-ville Ohio, another to Ann Arbor/Detroit and my bus to Iowa City/Des Moines.  As one of the older passengers correctly noted, this open air bazaar – with no visible crowd control and no benches to sit on or lines to stand in – is relatively OK in pleasant weather, which we had yesterday early evening.  But it might not be so OK when it’s raining or snowing or bitter cold.

Many passengers, as expected, were young people in their late teens and 20s  some tattooed and pierced, some black-clad Goths with dusty white faces, two chic geeks, some inner city kids wearing droopy pants.  Great people watching and reminded me of my lost-youth, riding the Magic Bus in Europe.

But on my bus there was also  a large multi-generation Asian family with a pushy patriarch, a Mennonite woman, some middle-aged couples, a few moms with kids.  I worried at first when the watery-eyed man in front of me took a sip from a liquor bottle inside a brown paper bag but he was well-behaved throughout. So was the little girl who sat on the lap of the teen-ager  beside me. The rowdiest passengers were some  women in their mid-30s who laughed and talked loudly, as if they riding their very own party bus after hitting the bars on Division Street (which come to think of it was probably where they had been.)

There were other annoying sounds and smells but that’s to be expected: a rattle-and-squeak  from  somewhere in the back of the bus near the bathroom, pulsating iPod musak from somewhere in the bus’ mid-section (the Ipod must have been  cranked up to blow-your-eardrums-out volume), smells of fried chicken, McDonalds (from the pitstop in Davenport), a fully-loaded brat, and corned beef (my bad. I  brought the sandwich with me from a Chicago deli.)

Next time, I’ll remember to fire up my Kindle – or at least bring the cord so I can plug it in. (There was an outlet below my window but my cord was in my suitcase in the bowels of the bus.) And I’ll remember to leave my novel out of my suitcase. I’ll also remember to fire up my phone (which was also losing juice.) Thank God my iPod was still working.

All told, it’s great to have a viable and inexpensive new option for getting to Iowa City and Chicago from here.

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Dorset, England – where to go

I was last in Dorset, um, about 30 years ago and what I remember most is standing at the end of the a spit of land jutting into the water (known as “the cobb”)  in Lyme Regis, looking wistfully back toward shore – of course mimicking Meryl Streep in the movie “The French Lieutenant’s Woman” which was set and filmed there.  Should I return, I’ll keep these tips from a recent NYT story in mind:

– Alexandra Hotel in Lyme Regis;

– Hix Oyster and Fish House in Lyme Regis – “arguably the best restaurant” in Dorset. book ahead.

– In the town of Mudeford – The Black house has apartments for rent.

– In Weymouth, Perry’s Restaurant (although I’ll skip the venison in favor of the sea bass)

– Drive to the Isle of Portland and walk along Chesil Beach (I’ve read the novel of the same name by Ian McEwan)

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Santa Fe: our favorite lodging still gets high marks

A recent NYT story on Santa Fe continued to plug the El Rey Inn – a place we’ve stayed at several times (upon the recommendation of the NYTimes.) It’s a retro-motel, located a bit out of the main part of town – which we didn’t mind. It has a lot of character, a nice pool, pretty grounds and best of all is reasonably priced (or relatively, compared to other Santa Fe hotels.) Doubles from $99 according to the NYT.

Other old favorites mentioned include the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market. We also liked exploring the shops in this area, which now apparently includes a new Railyard Park.  (And I didn’t know about the new passenger train from Albuquerque – which is where we fly into New Mexico and visit our relatives there.)

As always, Santa Fe continues to offer more new restaurants and sights. Among the ones that caught my eye: Restaurant Martin; two other restaurants – Vinaigrette and La Boca; a bike trail and bike rental outfit called  Mellow Velo; a flea market called Jackalope and SITE Santa Fe – a modern art space; a housing development with interesting architecture called Zocalo.

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