Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Eating and drinking our way around Seneca And Cayuga Lakes

Gorgeous weather, perfect for a Finger Lakes food and drink crawl, starting with Apples and Moore which was as miserly as I remembered, with no samples to determine if you wanted to buy a huge bag of apples – the only option available in the shop. (Also, dog-unfriendly. Theyallowed out of the car despite the ample grounds.)

But we learned that if we picked our own, we could sample a few varieties. Our favorites weren’t readily available. (It’s too early for the fabulous snapdragon apple I discovered two years ago. It’s available in late September.) We did enjoy some delicous apple cider donuts and the glorious view of orchards dotted with red apples and the lake valley in the distance.

Finger Lakes Cider House

Next stop: Two Goats Brewery, on the east side Seneca Lake, which has a phenomenal view of the lake and valley beyond. We had roast beef sandwiches with mayo and horseradish on a chewy roll, and Golden Crush hazy IPA. then onto my favorite spot – Finger Lakes Cider House which is between the two lakes in another gorgeous spot, with a cut flower operation, a good gift shop, excellent food, friendly and dog-welcoming staff. We had a house flight cider, with our favs: honeyoye and fruit of the bloom.And a cheese board of Lively Run Cheeses, also local (and a place we’ve visited on the crawl in the past.)

At Two Goats

Last stop, Trumansburg, a quick stop at our favorite shop Sundrees and then on to the Wednesday night farmers market, which is refreshingly low-key and counter culture.(Word has it the Ithaca Farmers Market has become too popular, leading to weekend traffic jams.) In T-burg, a bluegrass band played inside a red-topped wooden gazebo, while a food truck sold mean-looking fried chicken, and other vendors sold exotic garlic varieties, fancy slices of cake, excellent focaccia, late season tomatoes and basil.

Trumansburg farmers market

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New Paltz, Mohonk, Catskills, Roscoe Diner (Liberty) – road to Ithaca

We took a roundabout way to Ithaca so we could drive through the college town of New Paltz, which still has the alternative and outdoorsy vibe I remember, then on through the mountains past the grounds of the Mohonk resort, and into the Catskills where the big Borscht Belt resorts have been replaced by small orthodox Jewish temples, businesses, a camp.

Breakfast at the lake

For old times sake, we stopped for lunch at the Roscoe Dinner, getting a tuna on rye and Greek salad with anchovies, good Greek olives and grape leaves, which we ate at a picnic table at an adjacent ice cream shop (owned by the diner) that had a dog treat for Millie. The drive here was beautiful especially as we got closer to Lansing, NY and Cayuga Lake where our friends Myra and Mike’s little slice of heaven is located, a sweet cottage high above Cayuga’s waters. We arrived just in time for a late afternoon swim and happy hour on the dock. Oh happy day.

Roscoe Diner

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Our friends little slice of heaven (Salt point), Bread alone and Jane’s Ice cream (Rhinebeck

Playing catch up with the blogging because we’ve been so busy enjoying the gorgeous weather. We spent much of our time in the hamlet of Salt Point, walking out onto the pastures to the pond (where Millie can’t resist jumping into the pond) and the gazebo, visiting the cows, looking out over the valley at the stunning views.

We dropped in at a private party at a small old house in the hamlet of Rhinebeck to briefly see my cousin and her family who just moved there. The village reminded me a bit of Sag Harbor, increasing chic. Which has its pros (good bakeries) and cons (overpriced home goods shops.) we split an excellent chicken salad sandwich on delicious focaccia at Bread Alone and ice cream (killer chocolate) at Jane’s, a local dairy.)

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Wilkes-Barre PA, mist in the Poconos, Poughkeepsie Walkway over the Hudson

There was rain and mist in the mountains as we left our unlovely motel and drove further north and east, stopping for coffee in what turned out to be the interesting city of Wilkes-Barre. It reminded me a little of Easton, my mom’s hometown with old redbrick row houses with white wood railing. But Wilkes-Barre had surprisingly grand old buildings, some banks or fraternal organizations, and two small colleges with pretty old buildings. A bridge over the river with eagle sculptured pediments, worthy of Europe. A memorial to fallen coal miners. Seemed a faded, once mighty industrial city on the rebound.

The most spectacular and unexpected building was a mosque with four minerets that could have been in Istanbul. Apparently it was a Shriners temple, built in the early 1900s. Abandoned, with some busted windows but perhaps slated for restoration.

Wilkes-Barre

We found good coffee and pastries at Abide, which welcomed Millie, our dog, inside. Another nearby coffeehouse, Pour, looked like a good option too.

Confirming Pennsylvania’s swing state status in the upcoming presidential election, we saw a Harris Walz sign near the Jewish center of King’s College and a nasty “ F—k Biden” sign in the window of a faded apartment building. Another window in the building had a “Catholics for Trump” sign.

The sky began to clear as we drove though the Poconos to the Hudson River, crossing into Poughkeepsie, enough so we could sit outside at the Palace diner, old school with shiny aluminum siding, and eat brunch while passing customers made a fuss over Millie. We had one mishap. Millie balked at climbing the metal grated steps leading up to the dramatic walkway over the Hudson, fashioned from a former rail bridge. We found a hill she could walk up to get on the bridge and walked about half the bridge span, soaking in the spectacular river views, and then took the handy elevator down and walked uphill the to our car.

Walkway over the Hudson

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Filed under New York, Pennsylvania, Pennsylvania2, Uncategorized

Roots cafe (fennville) and Judith Racht gallery and upcoming outsider art fair (Harbert) – southwest Michigan

Finally made it to southwest Michigan on a day when the Judith Racht gallery in Harbert was open. (i.e. long weekends) And so glad to finally visit! terrific collection of contemporary artwork, some from local artists, as well as grassroots/folk/outsider art, and eclectic antiques. Sorry to miss the gallery’s Outsiders Outside Art Fair over Labor Day weekend.

For more details see: https://newbuffaloexplored.com/events/outsiders-outside-art-fair/

Judith Racht Gallery in an old school house

We also stopped at an old favorite a little north in Fennville at The Roots Cafe. Not sure the b&b burger (blue cheese and bacon) was best item to share. Delicious and a mess. The onion rings and fresh lemonade were less messy and also delicious.

Gallery basement treasures

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Good Harbor Gallery, Leland overrun, Northport still pretty, Port Oneida Fair – touring M-22, and Rabbinical ancestors in Traverse City

The weather turned oddly cold and moody, but thankfully no rain. Still, not a beach day so we drive along scenic M22, stopping at a small gallery with ceramics, Good Harbor Gallery, at a rural intersection north of Maple City where I found a wedding gift! we drive through traffic and tourist clogged Leland and it’s famous fishtown to the pretty village of Northport, where a farmers market along the lake was concluding.

Back south, we met up with the grandsons and parents for the annual port Oneida fair at six historic farms, offering lots of old timey kid friendly farm and craft activities, although the kids favorite was an earlier outing to feed alpacas in Frankfurt. In one farmhouse, the 70s cult novel Jonathan Livingston seagull was allegedly written. (I thought it was an east coast ocean seagull.)

Also happened to learn from an old friend about my family’s rabbinical and yenta roots in Traverse City!

Historic farm

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Filed under Michigan, Uncategorized, up north

Elberta beach and Mount Baldy hike, Icehouse Ice cream, pretty town, watervale Inn (Arcadia) and Glen arbor friends!

We finally made an effort to find the Elberta Beach, which is a keeper…a perfect stretch of sand that you reach by walking along a path in the dune grass. nice view of the Frankfort light house and dock inn the distance.

Elberta Beach

In Arcadia, we hiked through the woods a half mile to yet another gorgeous dune bluff view. After visiting the local old-fashioned ice cream shoppe, we drove into the town which turned out to be lovely with a pristine 19th century Lutheran church and several lovely white wood frame 19th century houses with tidy gardens and, I was pleased to see, pro-choice signs. No Trump signs like elsewhere up here, especially around Maple city. We saw two Robert F. Kennedy Jr, signs on the bike trail leading into Frankfort. go figure. Near Arcadia, we checked out the Watervale Inn, an old fashioned resort with summer cottages and a little beach. Unfortunately no dogs allowed, last I checked.

Arcadia house

Dinner into evening was at the perfect beach house of my friend from age 13, PJWK, in Glen Arbor, with a gorgeous view of a Manitou island in the distance and another mainland point. The old tiny Glen Haven. The night sky was full of stars.

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Filed under Michigan, up north

Farmers Market (Honor), Betsie Valley Trail (Beulah), L’chaim (Frankfort), grocer’s daughter gelato and windy Esch beach (Empire) – Up North

Morning at the cottage

When the young baker at the farmer’s market in the tiny village of Honor told me she was returning to school soon, I almost asked which college. Turns out she’s a first grade teacher…who makes a mean cinnamon roll. She was one of the few food vendors at the Tuesday market. The rest were selling low key crafts. We did buy some red haven peaches and tomatoes from what appeared to be native Americans.

Henna vendor at Honor farmers market

We rode our bikes twice on the Betsie River trail along Crystal Lake, which was a different series of colors each day, ranging from coral blue to navy blue.

The trail is about 18 miles round trip and very pleasant, mostly flat with a variety of surfaces and terrains, starting with crunchy crushed gravel as we peddled past waterfront cottages with pretty gardens and the lake, then pavement through the woods, dotted with the occasional white birch (my favorite), then through a marsh wetlands/Betsey Lake past Elberta into the tourist town of Frankfort, with its restaurants, T-shirt shops, and occasional classy decor/gift shops. There is also a L’chaim sandwich shop in Frankfort, where we shared a hearty Ruben sandwich.

Frankfort

In Empire, we made an obligatory stop at the Grocers Daughter for gelato. Esch beach was calm and packed, with warm water and sunshine on our first outing, then windy and less packed, with frigid water and white caps after a stormy night.

Cottage view, Crystal Lake
The sleeping porch in the afternoon
Cottage at night

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Filed under Michigan, Uncategorized, up north

Pyramid Point, cherry Republic (Glen Arbor), Benzie County Democrats (Beulah) and Port City Smokehouse (Frankfort) — old favs Up North

We’ve been here enough that we know the lay of the land, and have our old favorites. While the younger gens did the dune climb at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park, we did a short, more sedate hike north of the village of Empire that landed us at Pyramid Point dune with yet another dazzling view of the lake and manitou island in the distance. We drove a little further on M-22 to near Maple City, which was a reminder of how pretty that area is and might be worth planting ourselves during future visits. Bucolic farmland, historic farmsteads and pretty old country homes.

Glen Arbor was packed with tourists, as was Cherry Republic but it’s got good food (cherry chicken) and good service so worth the one hour wait? The kids played cornhole and other games available on sight while the adults shopped for cherry everything and anything in the shop.

Pyramid Point

We are near the Benzie County Democrats so Noah and I dropped by to see where volunteers are most needed in this battleground state during the upcoming presidential race. The office had just closed but we met a funny and engaging democrat (the lone one on the county commission, she told us). Benzie has a surprisingly robust democratic presence she told us, and is purple. So help is needed. Grand Rapids also needs help from democrat volunteers. She wasn’t sure about the New Buffalo area, which is most convenient to Chicago.

On to Port City Smokehouse for some fresh whitefish and smoked whitefish spread. Nice helpful staff.

At Fred’s view

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The farmhouse (Douglas), empire bluffs trail, l’chaim Deli, Papano’s Pizza (Beulah), Esch Beach – Up North, Michigan

We are back in Beulah after a three year hiatus and fortunately our Airbnb (Fred’s view on Crystal drive) is better than the last one. It’s farther from downtown Beulah, high on a ridge overlooking Crystal Lake, but a much less creepy and decrepit cottage. We claimed the sleeping porch, which has a lovely view of the lake in the distance, although we hear the cars from nearby highway 31. So not as serene as the sleeping porch from our early Ithaca stays on Cayuga Lake. But atmospheric with scuffed white wood siding and planked ceiling, a mishmash of wicker furniture and lake kitsch.

Farmhouse

Lunch en route was in Douglas at the farmhouse bakery, which contrary to its website doesn’t let you order online or by phone. We waited a half hour for very good sandwiches (mufaletta, tuna,), excellent carrot cake and perfect sourdough bread. Good dog-friendly sitting at wood tables outside in the back.

Today we did the easy hike on Empire bluffs Trail for spectacular views of the lake and sleeping Bear dunes, then onto L’chaim deli In beaulah – excellent Rubens, roast beef with Stilton, loaded bagels.

In the later afternoon we went to our favorite dog-friendly, townie beach, Esch Beach, which has soft sandy bottom with a few patches of rocks. Dinner was takeout pizza from very nearby Papano’s. Not bad.

Empire Bluffs Trail

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Filed under Michigan, Uncategorized, up north