Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Eagle Rock Hike, Inspiration Point drive, Taylor Creek Visitor center (spawning salmon) – Tahoe city and south; Halloween parade, Cottonwood restaurant in Truckee

Eagle rock view of Lake Tahoe

We had gorgeous weather again, although chilly temps in the morning (30s, 40s) so we took a short steep hike (as advertised) up eagle rock for a spectacular panoramic view of Lake Tahoe. I think the anxiety of the hike, especially the short last part where the trail disappeared and we had to figure out how to get up the last rocky incline, was worth the view. I’ve never quite recovered psychologically from my fall at the end of a hike in Norway in 2018, when I tripped on a tree route and broke my arm (the second break for that arm.)

We tried to find a few other nearby hikes but couldn’t find the trailheads so we kept driving past emerald bay along a steep road carved into the mountain with hairpin curses and some but not all sections with guard rails. Again, the views at Inspiration Point of the emerald-colored bay and the navy water beyond were worth the anxiety of contemplating driving off the cliff.

Inspiration point

Taylor creek visitor center was closed for the season but we walked on the interpretative nature trail (the rainbow trail) to a clear broom and stream where salmon were spawning. Apparently this happened sometime between October and February for about a month so lots of people, some with huge cameras and tripods were on hand. In the clear water we could see red salmon darting around and several dead silver salmon.

Spawning salmon info

We learned that when Pacific salmon are ready to spawn (have offspring via eggs) they turn red to attract a mate. But after they lay eggs they turn back to silver and die because the whole process is so exhausting. (Atlantic salmon don’t die after spawning.)

Picnic on the deck

For sandwich fixings, we stopped at Tahoma country Market and then returned to our chalet in alpine meadows for a lovely lunch outside on the deck with a pine tree covered mountain in the distance.

Tonight we went to the charming town of Truckee where the annual Halloween parade was on tap. Dozens of children and their parents dressed in very creative costumes and walked behind a fire down Donner Pass road, the main drag lined with old Victorian buildings with shops for well-to-do visitors. Before the parade, the kids trooped through various boutiques, outdoor stores, art galleries and bars lining the street to collect candy from shopkeepers.

Truckee Halloween parade

Dinner was at the cottonwood restaurant, which has a great view from on high of downtown Truckee, a fun, lively bar and so-so food and service. We dropped into Moodys bistro in the old fashioned Truckee hotel, which has live music and a busy bar. It looked like fun but was packed.

Truckee Halloween parade

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Alpine Meadows, “the Lake,” emerald Bay, bridgetender – in and around Tahoe City

This is definitely the most scenic location I’ve phonebanked for Kamala from! Amazing that I can sit in a sweet chalet in the wooded Sierra Nevada mountains of Tahoe and call prospective voters in Michigan.

We have done other more Tahoe activities since arriving at my cousin’s spacious second home in Alpine Meadows, just north of Tahoe City (and the spectacular lake) and 13 miles south of the hip western town of Truckee. I’ve wanted to visit this area ever since the 1990s when we turned down a last minute invite (from Scott’s parents) to stay at a borrowed palatial home on the Nevada side of the lake in Incline Village. This home, which has four bedrooms and can sleep around 9 (it’s available for vacation rental) is palatial enough!

Emerald Bat (and the sole island in Lake Tahoe)

We’ve enjoyed sitting on the back deck, eating lunch with a Mountain View, surrounded by pine trees.

The pier in Tahoe city

The helpful woman at the tourist office in Tahoe City sent us off with a map of the city and a short walk along the water and a bigger map of the entire lake. She sent us to Emerald Bay, near sunset, where the water is indeed emerald green, in contrast to the stunning blues of the rest of the lake.

The view from on high at Inspiration Point

There’s a good scenic overlook where we looked out at the small island in the bay , the lanes only island, word has it..

Dinner was an excellent cheese and bacon burger cooked just as requested, at Bridgetender, a rustic tavern full of wood tables and countertops and woodsy art. We’re told it’s a favorite of locals and so it seemed, which worked for us! We also stopped at the West Shore market, a little bougie place but decided we could get what we needed at the local Safeway in Tahoe City.

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Biking in Golden Gate, uncle Benny’s donuts and the dumpling king in the sunset – San Francisco (and a little Oakland)

What a treat to have an expert on Golden Gate Park (see Susan’s Goldengatepark.substack.com) show us around, on borrowed bikes no less. We entered the park around 30th Ave and Lincoln and rode to the recently revamped middle Lake and then to the golden gate angling and casting club where practicing fly fishers cast their lines and try to hit various target hoops in the aqua-colored pool. A nice guy who works at the club’s lodge, a rustic WPA cabin, showed us around the place which has high narrow wood lockers for rods, old photos of champion anglers, and various trophies on display.

Hitching a ride

From there we peddled to jfKennedy drive which became car-free during the pandemic and has stayed that way, with sculptures dotting the wide road. We passed by a white botanical building that looked like a mini-Kew Gardens (of London fame) and so it was, with colorful landscaped gardens and a guy playing impressive classical music on a public piano.

Mini-Kew

We had coffee and a donut at uncle Benny’s donuts on Irving, which was hopping on a Wednesday morning and a late lunch on Taraval Street at Kingdom of Dumpling, a hole in the wall serving excellent steamed and pan fried dumplings, pork & spinach; shrimp and chives.

For dinner we picked up pizza on 9th Avenue and took it to Oakland where Susan and Eric’s charming “boys” live. This morning, we squeezed in one more visit to the park on another spectacular day, walking around the polo field with Susan’s sweet pup Juniper who leapt up on all fours at the sight of a dog friend approaching.

Oakland crew

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Burbank airport confiscation, San Francisco – Fort Funston and Mandalay Burmese in the Richmond, Tartine/sunset, Golden Gate and Dogtown

Alas my cheese spreaders didn’t make it through security at the Burbank airport, unlike at O’Hare, where they barely got through. So I arrived without a gift for our friends here in Sam Francisco. Next time, I’ll stick with tea towels.

Fort Funston

Other than that our short flight on Alaska airlines from Burbank to San Francisco went well. Safely ensconced in SF’s Sunset neighborhood, we took Susan’s dog on a walk at scenic Fort Funston, overlooking the Pacific and had a terrific Burmese meal in the Richmond at Mandalay, which as it happens won a James beard award this year. I can see why.

We sat outside in a heated area and had delicious food. Highlights: tea leaf salad (crunchy mix of nuts and leaves), samusa soup, naked eggplant, pork with green beans, chicken lettuce cups, balata /crispy pancakes.

This morning, Dirck and I had breakfast at Tartine, the famous SF bakery in the Mission that now has an outpost in the Sunset on 9th Avenue. We had an excellent morning bun (although the one at The commissary in burbank was mighty good too). Also amazing – the enormous country loaf and ham and cheese croissant. Oddly, we sat next to a guy I realized I knew from Chicago… after he left Tartine. So I emailed him to confirm it was him and he was still nearby so he returned to say hi. We walked back to Susan and Erica through glorious golden gate park, taking a few wrong turns, without complaint. Must look up Susan’s piece on substack about “desire lines” – off the beaten paths that develop in places both planned and wild like golden gate.

Fort Funston

Susan drive us to a gentrifying area in the south park of the city near the ballpark called Dogtown which amazing views of the east bay looking out at Oakland. The view was particularly astonishing from the rooftop of RH. An opulent furniture store in an old Bethlehem Steel Building. Breakfast in Sunset was coffee and a glazed donut at Uncle Benny’s on Irving.

Golden gate
RH bay view in Dogpatch

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Looking for distinctive LA and Pasadena places – Salazar in frogtown; Wanderlust in Atwater village; Daisy Mint (Thai) and Huntington gardens

We have mostly gone to old favorites during our visit to Burbank (high horse/base camp cafe; the commissary, Porto’s) and environs but last night my brother showed us some new (or new to us) spots including Salazar, in a neighborhood near Silver Lake called Frogtown (was told once that realtors come up with these neighborhood names, at least in Chicago) and Wanderlust, an ice cream shop in Atwater Village, run by south Asian entrepreneurs that has concocted exotic flavors, some with south Asian sounding names (Vietnamese rocky road, sticky rice and mango).

Salazar is in a dark quasi-industrial area near a highway but has a hip yet welcoming vibe, with a spacious concrete outdoor eating space with trees and tarps. (we never saw an indoor space).

The food is affordable, moderately inventive tacos and family style sides of roasted spicy corn, black beans, guacamole, and an assortment of margaritas. Wanderlust doles out small scoops of its ice cream with exotic names and tastes.

These places struck me as distinctly LA, which was refreshing after a visit to upscale “Old Pasadena” area where the old Spanish-style buildings are distinctly Pasadena (although not quite nlike the plaza in n Kansas City) yet house many of the same shops in our new hometown of Chicago,

some in our Lincoln Park neighborhood. That’s one difference about living in Chicago, vs. Des Moines where we had fewer of the lifestyle chain brands and big box shops that homogenize many major cities now. In Pasadena, we did find a few small and quirky independently owned shops selling Kamala election gear and vintage Chanel (north of Colorado blvd, the main drag on Holly near Raymond) and a flea market in more funky south Pasadena, on Mission Street near the train station, with its the small charming bungalows. And Pasadena’s long straight fancier residential streets lined with Spanish style houses with red stucco tile roofs, towering palms, bright red Bougainville, and lush green lawns scream California.

On a busy Sunday we returned to Pasadena for distinctly Pasadena experiences – lunch at the charming Thai restaurant Daisy Mint (sautéed eggplant, string beans with crispy tofu, large pieces of chicken satee) and the glorious Huntington Gardens (especially the Chinese and Japanese gardens).

At the Huntington

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Return to Burbank – Açaí jungle, magnolia Park vintage, Porto’s, Skyline Drive home and country club canyon road

Glad to be back to Burbank visiting my brother and family after too long. Last time I was here in early 2020, the pandemic was just starting. We still wore masks on our flight to LAX but are less worried about Covid. (Knock wood).

Skyline trail

We tried to take the flyaway bus from the airport but there wasn’t one readily available (40 minute wait) so we took an Uber. $86 and 1.5 hours since we arrived during rush hour. (thanks to a one hour flight delay.) unfortunately we didn’t have the Lyft app downloaded, which were told could have saved us $20 or so. (It’s now downloaded.)

At The Commissary, a beautiful server we guessed is an aspiring actor served us coffee and a delicious morning bun, a curly mound of croissant dough with a crispy cinnamon sugar crust. Lunch was excellent salads at açaí jungle. Then we visited the resale shop It’s a wrap (which sells clothing worn on various shows that film in the area) and nearby vintage and interesting gift shops in what’s know as Magnolia Park.

Last stop, the famous Cuban bakery Porto’s where several staff told me “ I like your shirt!” ( I was wearing my cheerful Harris-Walz tee) and a woman visiting from Arizona asked if she could give me a hug. She and her party are also Harris-Walz supporters. They are cautiously optimistic about the tickets chances in Arizona.

Porto’s

We were the only hikers and on a narrow trail high above Burbank, where we could see the silhouette of downtown LA in the distance, a little further off than the downtown Chicago silhouette from our apartment. Although the mountain bikers were in on the secret, which wasn’t that big a deal. (It’s off skyline drive.) we also drove on a narrow canyon road past a lovely pink Spanish style stucco house with terraced gardens that was the club house of a long gone country club.

Açaí jungle

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We’re not on RAGBRAI any more – the Apple Cider Century (ACC) ride in southwest Michigan

First, we did not ride a century (100 Miles). Fortunately this celebrated annual bike ride in southwest Michigan offered plenty of route options (15, 25, 37, 50, 100) and there was no shaming. We all rode the same last stretch into Three Oaks, Mi. there was no way necessarily to know who rode 15 miles or 100. Dirck and I contemplated chatting loudly as we rode into Three Oaks about how “the first 75 miles were a breeze, but those last 25, man they were tough.”

In truth we road about 34 miles, we think, since we shaved off one wee bit of the 37 mile route (that dipped into Indiana). It was a lovely ride. Mostly flat but with a variety of scenery, from farms with old barns, yellowing corn and browning soybeans outside Three Oaks to big mansions and charming small cottages, old inns (Gordon Beach and Lakeside Inn) and camp along Lake Michigan in New Buffalo and Lakeside to exurbia who-knows-where-exactly with the occasional McMansion or Hamptons-like faux chateau or denser communities of luxury houses or mobile homes on the way back through the woods to Three Oaks.

We couldn’t help comparing the ACC experience to RAGRAI, the Des Moines Registers’s annual great ride across Iowa, which I have partially ridden several times (1 to 3 days) and dirck has done in full (seven days). We saw several RAGBRAI bike jerseys and one woman bragged that she’d ridden ragbrai 21 times. Interesting to find out that the ACC ride and Ragbrai are both 51 this year. RAGBRAI is much longer (a week not a day) and much more of a production to ride and organize. It’s also a lot hillier, windier, hotter (in late July) and challenging, often with 70 or more mile days, one day after another.

Our improvised route
Gordon Beach inn

I loved that the ACC was so chill. Much smaller so no lines. I was surprised that there were no vendors along the route – no eating your way across Michigan, as in Iowa. No Mr. Pork Chop or loud hand -cranked ice cream machine or pop-up beer gardens. No beer at all, or circus. No “teams” wearing tutus or tiny port-a-potties on their helmets. Or riders trailing boom boxes blaring music.

Very different scene. The only vendor we encountered was a few girls serving free lemonade outside a contemporary house near Lake Michigan. A pumpkin farm also had free cider. We stopped at Roar, an art gallery in a big red barn in Three Oaks, which kindly laid out candy for riders and had the most immaculate port-a-potty I’ve encountered. I appeared to be the first customer, judging from the toilet paper roll which did not roll. (figuring out where to tear it was a challenge.) the gallery owner, whose work exhibited includes his own, also runs a cool Airbnb in Sawyer called Ozzie’s Place.

Roar Art gallery inside the red barn in Three oaks

We encountered only one official “sag stop” on the grounds of a pretty old yellow house in a clearing in the woods and much appreciated the free cider, apples, bananas, trail mix, cookies. water. At the end of the ride, people piled into a Catholic Church hall in Three Oaks for a free spaghetti dinner (spaghetti never tasted so good) and, shades of RAGBRAI, church women served slices of apple or pumpkin pie. No lines. No crowds. No traffic jams. No exhaustion. No major hills. Some families. Lots of Chicagoans. What looked like a few Detroiters.

I wondered how the five different routes would overlap and be marked. EASY Peasy. There were occasional spray painted apples on the street, each route coded a different color. We mostly followed the blue apple signs for the 37 mile ride. and there was enough overlap that we could edit the route, cutting off a little here (sorry, Indiana, maybe we’ll ride your way next time) and adding a little there (to make sure we rode along the lake, a highlight.) Anyway, totally fun and well run and we hope to return.

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Canvassing for Dems in New Buffalo; apple/pumpkin shopping on Cleveland road thru Galien (Ray and Al’s), Baroda, St. Joseph; wanderlust in St.Joe; Houndstooth in Benton Harbor – Southwest Michigan

Fun with skeletons – wading pool

By the end of this busy day in southwest Michigan, we had a car full of bike shirts, democratic candidate fliers, apples, cider and pumpkins, which reflects the dual nature of the day. We spent much of it canvassing for democratic candidates in New Buffalo, volunteering on behalf of the Michigan Dems – visiting streets completely off the tourist path in New Buffalo, which was interesting. We encountered a mix of friendly Dems and sometimes hostile Trumpers. One woman slammed the door in my face after declaring she’d never vote for “that woman,” i.e. Kamala Harris. Other republicans were more pleasant.

More fun with skeletons

We also were in the area for the annual Apple Cider Bike Ride that happens tomorrow. We went to the registration in a Catholic church in Three Oaks, where there was also a very good sale on bikeshirts in a nearby tent. Later in the day, after canvassing, we returned to Three Oaks for the bike ride’s “ice cream social” which was fun. We lined up for free ice cream (Michigan pothole, my new fav, was an option) and popcorn which we ate in a little park in town where a blues band played in a gazebo.

Apple Cider Ride ice cream social

We took the backroad Cleveland (the name of our street in Chicago) to the Twin Maples apple orchard north of Galien (pronounced Ga-leen, home of Ray and Al’s cafe, which remains on my must-try list). (UPDATE: The cafe opened an offshoot in THREE OAKS — Commune+Market, a new coffee shop and expansive event space, is set to open its doors in the heart of downtown Three Oaks at 105 North Elm St. Source: Harbor Country News
https://search.app/38eUeVg2UJQ85qfp8)

We picked up some Jonathan apples (uncommonly huge and red) for applesauce-making, plus some mutsu apples and honeycrisps for eating and some cider. We had a pretty drive further north (marred only by too many Trump signs) through Baroda, stopping outside st. Joseph at devries farm to pick up some pumpkins and unusual gourds.

Houndstooth fare: poke with avocado in blackberry ponzu sauce and Japanese milk bread with black garlic and chives.

Dinner at Houndstooth in Benton Harbor did not disappoint. It helped that the clerk at an outfitters shop (wanderlust) in St. Joes excitedly recommended what we should order, down to the drink (WaffleHouse, an odd name for what tasted and looked like elegant lemonade). The Japanese milk bread was fabulous (which I would not have thought to order had the clerk not recommended).

Houndstooth neighbor: “Hi-steppin Menswear suits-tuxedos-leisure sets“

She also recommended the passion fruit panne cotta with little pieces of meringue for desert which was as delicious as it was beautiful to look at. Looked like mini birch tree branches in a creamy bright yellow sea. We sat on the patio which fortunately was not deserted but next time I’d like to try the dining room which was hopping. Strange to find such life inside a building on otherwise lifeless streets but I’m guessing affordable rents in this struggling town made it possible for a talented chef to set up shop.

Twin Maple apples

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Indiana wedding at White oak farm, Issa vibe cafe in New Buffalo

We danced the night away at my niece’s wedding, held at White Oak Farm in the countryside near Michigan City, Indiana, only 12 minutes from New Buffalo, Michigan, but one time zone away.The weather was dry (amen) and in the 80s, with some intense sunshine during the early part of the outdoor service on a stone patio between two barns – not the old rustic barns but new fancy barns, one with chandeliers, designed not for livestock but for events including weddings. Great people, service, food, dj, dancing.

The “barn”

The morning after, my sibs and I checked out of our respective airbnbs at 10 am (a bit challenging when you’ve gone to bed at 1:30 am) and met at Issa Vibe Cafe, a cheerful easygoing spot with large breakfast paninis (request mayo/aioli on the side; consider sharing) and coffee drinks. It was a good place to hangout and a perfect way to end our family gathering.

Noah, D and I did stop for some Michigan pothole ice cream at Oinks on the way out of New Buffalo. We’re talking very chocolate ice cream with oreo cookie crumbs and mini-peanut butter cups, so not suitable for our lab Millie, who was with us. Amazingly, another customer came over to our table with a little dish of vanilla ice cream for Millie. How kind was that?

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Good news!! Michigan Central Station to offer guided tours, opening first restaurant in four decades

Michigan Central Station announced it will offer guided tours and open its first restaurant in four decades. Sadly, it wasn’t open when we tried to visit earlier this year…
— for details Read on www.clickondetroit.com/news/local/2024/09/17/michigan-central-station-to-offer-guided-tours-opening-first-restaurant-in-four-decades/

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