oh happy day, the sun finally came out on this, our fifth day in London. And it does make a difference, especially after so many gloomy overcast days. We took full advantage of the moment by walking to nearby Kew Gardens, which was full of sweeping green lawns, ancient trees with yellow and red and orange leaves, the occasional sculpture, pagoda with ornamental animals, squirrel, Egyptian geese, and whatnot.
We walked through Temperance House, a glass building that resembles the Palm House, with big leafed palm trees inside, the Japanese garden, the Chinese gardens.No visit is complete without a stop at the giftshop, especially when your friend can share her 20 percent discount! We also picked up sandwiches at the Kew greenhouse cafe and ate them on park benches in the gardens.
I’ve always gladly accepted Francine’s invitations in London because I inevitably see something most visitors don’t. True to form we went to the lovely Garden Museum in an old decommissioned church next to Lambeth Palace.
Mortlake Tapestry
The museum just purchased a Mortlake Tapestry from the 1630s, believed to be the earliest depiction of a female gardener. Mortlake, where we are staying with our friends, was home to a famous tapestry works. Very cool to see the tapestry, which Francine helped raise money for to pay for conservation of the tapestry.
We walked along the south bank along with a mass of texting, photo- taking international tourists, past my former office (the House of Commons) all the way to the Tate Modern, with a quick look at a cool ghostly installation in the turbine hall and a gift shop visit.
New friends from Sri Lanka and Canada
Then we walked across the wobbly bridge to St. Paul’s where we learned that the #11 bus and any other vehicles were not running due to the Lord Mayors parade. We skipped the parade and walked down Fleet Street past my second former London office (the nytimes London bureau’s former shoe lane office.) Tired and hungry, we stumbled into an ancient Dickensian pub, Ye olde Cheshire Cheese (rebuilt 1667, similar era as the mortlake tapestry), where we found a table way at the bottom of the rabbit warren of a pub, in a cellar-like room with a low barreled ceiling. We shared a table with a couple from Sri Lanka and a couple from Halifax, formerly from Toronto. We ended up chatting and sharing food (a ploughmans at last!) for over an hour. So interesting, fun and unexpected! Also near Samuel Johnson’s house.
Inside ye olde
Next stop Richmond where we walked across the green in the late afternoon to another cool old pub called the White Swan, a perfect place to catch up with my old friend/colleague (from a Connecticut paper during the mid-1980s) Bennett and his wife Kim. Then the four of us met Francine and Russ for excellent “new wave” Indian food at Cinnamon Bazaar, near Richmond Station, specializing in inventive Indian railway food (chaats) prepared and served quickly, plus fusion dishes like Rogan josh shepherds pie. Great day!
On Sunday, we got a little slice of America in general and Iowa in particular with our friend Una at Pickle & Rye, a cafe specializing In breakfast and burgers in Mortlake. We were lucky to catch the co-owner Val there, who is an Iowan. This new location doesn’t have as many Iowa nicknacks as the previous one but there is a photo of the Louis Sullivan “jewel box” bank in Grinnell where Val grew up and a Taylor’s Maid-rite mug from Marshalltown Iowa. The entire cafe went silent for two minutes at 11:11 to mark remembrance sunDay, silently watching the wreath laying ceremony in central London at the cenotaph.
With Val at Pickle & RyeWith Mima and Harriet, Clapham Junction
The family sitting at the table with the mug seemed intrigued that I was taking a photo of it so I explained that this was a famous Iowa delicacy, not one I’m particularly fond of but still…a loose meat sandwich. Dinner tonight was at my friend Jemima’s daughter and son-in-law’s flat in claphamjunction, a 10 minute train ride from Mortlake. Lovely to see Jemima’s kids, now in their 30s.
Last seen when they were maybe 4 and 5. They were keen to discuss the election results and of course dismayed by the result…and surprisingly well-versed on US politics.
On Telly: Remembrance Sunday day ceremony with Princess Kate
This trip is really about visiting people, not places as much so a better headline would be Marion at Stratton’ Tower in Potter’s bar and MB in a Mortlake. But along the way we visited a few places new and old, starting with Marion’s amazing home in a 18th century brick tower (built 1789) we once called “the folly.” It’s in the rolling green Hertfordshire countryside a short train ride from Kings cross to Potter’s Bar. Marion zipped us around in her little car expertly navigating a winding assortment of very narrow lanes lined with hedges, first to a restaurant in the local garden center, which was very busy, with nary a free table in sight (and the credit card machine was down. who has cash these days.?) So we ended up at a pub-looking restaurant the cock o’ the north, where we lingered for hours talking.
In kings cross, we returned to the “Coal Drop” area, stopping for coffee and hot chocolate at Gail’s Bakery (which we discovered has an outpost close,to us in Mortlake) and visiting the artisans at the Canopy Market. This area continues to grow and is full of life.
Dinner was with MB, my sister’s sister-in-law,who happens to live in the same neighborhood as our friends we are staying with. We met at hare and Hounds pub, which we have been to before. It has a long menu. Ingot bangers (sausages) and mash, an upscale version, which was the closest I could find to traditional pub grub. I am forever searching for a ploughman’s. Which is so 1980’s. Lovely to be here and away from the political drama and fear in the states, although the British are also very upset and worried by the election results.
We packed a lot into our last two days here, dividing our time between the California and Nevada sides of the Tahoe Region. Up the road from our Alpine Meadows abode, we spent several hours on the spectacular Five Lakes Trail, a five mile trek that is almost all uphill (or up mountain) outbound, zigging and zagging up a mountain dotted with tall pines below a ski lift at 8,673 feet altitude. I was very happy to finally reach the small clear lakes where we turned around and went downward. I later read the trailwas “strenuous” which was more offputting than the original “moderate” difficulty description.
Five lakes trail (my shirt from the democratic national convention was a hit with women hikers)
Feeling virtuous and achy, we took a drive north along the bay to the Nevada side of the lake on the east. In Incline Village, we drove along Lakeshore Boulevard, aka Billionaires Row, a heavily shaded road with large gated drives on the lake side with mansions, presumably, below. Twenty years ago, I had a chance to stay at one (long story) but balked at the coast of last minute plane tickets from Des Moines.
I’ve wanted to go to Lake Tahoe ever since. Just past Incline Village on highway 28, we found a wonderful trail for biking and walking that hugs the lake. I’ve heard it referred to as the legacy trail, the east shore trail. Whatever the name it was stunning. We parked along the highway (in one of the few spots permitted) rather than paying for lots further way and walked down along the water past Hidden Beach, toward a small visitors stop where you can park for 20 minutes and explore.
The trail continues a short distance to Sand Harbor State Park which looked like it has a great swimming beach. We also drove a little further to Thunderbird Lodge, a historic sight that was closed but looked interesting. Next trip.
The lakes many moods along the east shore trail, near Hidden beach
At Gar Woods, a restaurant and pier overlooking the lake in Carnelian Bay we had drinks (I had the speciality rum slushy, a “wet woody” (a somewhat rude sounding name) made with prickly pair syrup. We shared some steam clams and enjoyed the view from the deck.
Gar woods
In Kings Beach, we stopped at two of the shops lining the highway to get gifts, including the North Shore Art Center.
Gar woods view and pierEast shore trail
Near Tahoe City, we had an excellent Sunday brunch at the Firesign Cafe, another popular spot with locals, for good reason. We sat at the bar because the place was packed. Woodsy rustic decor. Warm and welcoming. We also picked up some goodies nearby at the Tahoe House Bakery, which also has some gourmet cheeses and charcuterie. We bought a huge ginger snap cookie and a slice of carrot cake – that’s dinner! Why not? We’re on vacation (for at least a half day more).
Scenic overlook on east side of lake south of incline village
We had gorgeous weather again, although chilly temps in the morning (30s, 40s) so we took a short steep hike (as advertised) up eagle rock for a spectacular panoramic view of Lake Tahoe. I think the anxiety of the hike, especially the short last part where the trail disappeared and we had to figure out how to get up the last rocky incline, was worth the view. I’ve never quite recovered psychologically from my fall at the end of a hike in Norway in 2018, when I tripped on a tree route and broke my arm (the second break for that arm.)
We tried to find a few other nearby hikes but couldn’t find the trailheads so we kept driving past emerald bay along a steep road carved into the mountain with hairpin curses and some but not all sections with guard rails. Again, the views at Inspiration Point of the emerald-colored bay and the navy water beyond were worth the anxiety of contemplating driving off the cliff.
Inspiration point
Taylor creek visitor center was closed for the season but we walked on the interpretative nature trail (the rainbow trail) to a clear broom and stream where salmon were spawning. Apparently this happened sometime between October and February for about a month so lots of people, some with huge cameras and tripods were on hand. In the clear water we could see red salmon darting around and several dead silver salmon.
Spawning salmon info
We learned that when Pacific salmon are ready to spawn (have offspring via eggs) they turn red to attract a mate. But after they lay eggs they turn back to silver and die because the whole process is so exhausting. (Atlantic salmon don’t die after spawning.)
Picnic on the deck
For sandwich fixings, we stopped at Tahoma country Market and then returned to our chalet in alpine meadows for a lovely lunch outside on the deck with a pine tree covered mountain in the distance.
Tonight we went to the charming town of Truckee where the annual Halloween parade was on tap. Dozens of children and their parents dressed in very creative costumes and walked behind a fire down Donner Pass road, the main drag lined with old Victorian buildings with shops for well-to-do visitors. Before the parade, the kids trooped through various boutiques, outdoor stores, art galleries and bars lining the street to collect candy from shopkeepers.
Truckee Halloween parade
Dinner was at the cottonwood restaurant, which has a great view from on high of downtown Truckee, a fun, lively bar and so-so food and service. We dropped into Moodys bistro in the old fashioned Truckee hotel, which has live music and a busy bar. It looked like fun but was packed.
This is definitely the most scenic location I’ve phonebanked for Kamala from! Amazing that I can sit in a sweet chalet in the wooded Sierra Nevada mountains of Tahoe and call prospective voters in Michigan.
We have done other more Tahoe activities since arriving at my cousin’s spacious second home in Alpine Meadows, just north of Tahoe City (and the spectacular lake) and 13 miles south of the hip western town of Truckee. I’ve wanted to visit this area ever since the 1990s when we turned down a last minute invite (from Scott’s parents) to stay at a borrowed palatial home on the Nevada side of the lake in Incline Village. This home, which has four bedrooms and can sleep around 9 (it’s available for vacation rental) is palatial enough!
Emerald Bat (and the sole island in Lake Tahoe)
We’ve enjoyed sitting on the back deck, eating lunch with a Mountain View, surrounded by pine trees.
The pier in Tahoe city
The helpful woman at the tourist office in Tahoe City sent us off with a map of the city and a short walk along the water and a bigger map of the entire lake. She sent us to Emerald Bay, near sunset, where the water is indeed emerald green, in contrast to the stunning blues of the rest of the lake.
The view from on high at Inspiration Point
There’s a good scenic overlook where we looked out at the small island in the bay , the lanes only island, word has it..
Dinner was an excellent cheese and bacon burger cooked just as requested, at Bridgetender, a rustic tavern full of wood tables and countertops and woodsy art. We’re told it’s a favorite of locals and so it seemed, which worked for us! We also stopped at the West Shore market, a little bougie place but decided we could get what we needed at the local Safeway in Tahoe City.
What a treat to have an expert on Golden Gate Park (see Susan’s Goldengatepark.substack.com) show us around, on borrowed bikes no less. We entered the park around 30th Ave and Lincoln and rode to the recently revamped middle Lake and then to the golden gate angling and casting club where practicing fly fishers cast their lines and try to hit various target hoops in the aqua-colored pool. A nice guy who works at the club’s lodge, a rustic WPA cabin, showed us around the place which has high narrow wood lockers for rods, old photos of champion anglers, and various trophies on display.
Hitching a ride
From there we peddled to jfKennedy drive which became car-free during the pandemic and has stayed that way, with sculptures dotting the wide road. We passed by a white botanical building that looked like a mini-Kew Gardens (of London fame) and so it was, with colorful landscaped gardens and a guy playing impressive classical music on a public piano.
Mini-Kew
We had coffee and a donut at uncle Benny’s donuts on Irving, which was hopping on a Wednesday morning and a late lunch on Taraval Street at Kingdom of Dumpling, a hole in the wall serving excellent steamed and pan fried dumplings, pork & spinach; shrimp and chives.
For dinner we picked up pizza on 9th Avenue and took it to Oakland where Susan and Eric’s charming “boys” live. This morning, we squeezed in one more visit to the park on another spectacular day, walking around the polo field with Susan’s sweet pup Juniper who leapt up on all fours at the sight of a dog friend approaching.
Alas my cheese spreaders didn’t make it through security at the Burbank airport, unlike at O’Hare, where they barely got through. So I arrived without a gift for our friends here in Sam Francisco. Next time, I’ll stick with tea towels.
Fort Funston
Other than that our short flight on Alaska airlines from Burbank to San Francisco went well. Safely ensconced in SF’s Sunset neighborhood, we took Susan’s dog on a walk at scenic Fort Funston, overlooking the Pacific and had a terrific Burmese meal in the Richmond at Mandalay, which as it happens won a James beard award this year. I can see why.
We sat outside in a heated area and had delicious food. Highlights: tea leaf salad (crunchy mix of nuts and leaves), samusa soup, naked eggplant, pork with green beans, chicken lettuce cups, balata /crispy pancakes.
This morning, Dirck and I had breakfast at Tartine, the famous SF bakery in the Mission that now has an outpost in the Sunset on 9th Avenue. We had an excellent morning bun (although the one at The commissary in burbank was mighty good too). Also amazing – the enormous country loaf and ham and cheese croissant. Oddly, we sat next to a guy I realized I knew from Chicago… after he left Tartine. So I emailed him to confirm it was him and he was still nearby so he returned to say hi. We walked back to Susan and Erica through glorious golden gate park, taking a few wrong turns, without complaint. Must look up Susan’s piece on substack about “desire lines” – off the beaten paths that develop in places both planned and wild like golden gate.
Fort Funston
Susan drive us to a gentrifying area in the south park of the city near the ballpark called Dogtown which amazing views of the east bay looking out at Oakland. The view was particularly astonishing from the rooftop of RH. An opulent furniture store in an old Bethlehem Steel Building. Breakfast in Sunset was coffee and a glazed donut at Uncle Benny’s on Irving.
We have mostly gone to old favorites during our visit to Burbank (high horse/base camp cafe; the commissary, Porto’s) and environs but last night my brother showed us some new (or new to us) spots including Salazar, in a neighborhood near Silver Lake called Frogtown (was told once that realtors come up with these neighborhood names, at least in Chicago) and Wanderlust, an ice cream shop in Atwater Village, run by south Asian entrepreneurs that has concocted exotic flavors, some with south Asian sounding names (Vietnamese rocky road, sticky rice and mango).
Salazar is in a dark quasi-industrial area near a highway but has a hip yet welcoming vibe, with a spacious concrete outdoor eating space with trees and tarps. (we never saw an indoor space).
The food is affordable, moderately inventive tacos and family style sides of roasted spicy corn, black beans, guacamole, and an assortment of margaritas. Wanderlust doles out small scoops of its ice cream with exotic names and tastes.
These places struck me as distinctly LA, which was refreshing after a visit to upscale “Old Pasadena” area where the old Spanish-style buildings are distinctly Pasadena (although not quite nlike the plaza in n Kansas City) yet house many of the same shops in our new hometown of Chicago,
some in our Lincoln Park neighborhood. That’s one difference about living in Chicago, vs. Des Moines where we had fewer of the lifestyle chain brands and big box shops that homogenize many major cities now. In Pasadena, we did find a few small and quirky independently owned shops selling Kamala election gear and vintage Chanel (north of Colorado blvd, the main drag on Holly near Raymond) and a flea market in more funky south Pasadena, on Mission Street near the train station, with its the small charming bungalows. And Pasadena’s long straight fancier residential streets lined with Spanish style houses with red stucco tile roofs, towering palms, bright red Bougainville, and lush green lawns scream California.
On a busy Sunday we returned to Pasadena for distinctly Pasadena experiences – lunch at the charming Thai restaurant Daisy Mint (sautéed eggplant, string beans with crispy tofu, large pieces of chicken satee) and the glorious Huntington Gardens (especially the Chinese and Japanese gardens).
Glad to be back to Burbank visiting my brother and family after too long. Last time I was here in early 2020, the pandemic was just starting. We still wore masks on our flight to LAX but are less worried about Covid. (Knock wood).
Skyline trail
We tried to take the flyaway bus from the airport but there wasn’t one readily available (40 minute wait) so we took an Uber. $86 and 1.5 hours since we arrived during rush hour. (thanks to a one hour flight delay.) unfortunately we didn’t have the Lyft app downloaded, which were told could have saved us $20 or so. (It’s now downloaded.)
At The Commissary, a beautiful server we guessed is an aspiring actor served us coffee and a delicious morning bun, a curly mound of croissant dough with a crispy cinnamon sugar crust. Lunch was excellent salads at açaí jungle. Then we visited the resale shop It’s a wrap (which sells clothing worn on various shows that film in the area) and nearby vintage and interesting gift shops in what’s know as Magnolia Park.
Last stop, the famous Cuban bakery Porto’s where several staff told me “ I like your shirt!” ( I was wearing my cheerful Harris-Walz tee) and a woman visiting from Arizona asked if she could give me a hug. She and her party are also Harris-Walz supporters. They are cautiously optimistic about the tickets chances in Arizona.
Porto’s
We were the only hikers and on a narrow trail high above Burbank, where we could see the silhouette of downtown LA in the distance, a little further off than the downtown Chicago silhouette from our apartment. Although the mountain bikers were in on the secret, which wasn’t that big a deal. (It’s off skyline drive.) we also drove on a narrow canyon road past a lovely pink Spanish style stucco house with terraced gardens that was the club house of a long gone country club.
