Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Can-u Canoe? A free canoe float down the Des Moines River

Free 30-minute canoe floats are being offered to Des Moines residents (don’t know if non-Des Moines residents can join the fun) on June 17, July 15 and August 19 from 12-4 p.m., starting at Prospect Park and ending in Birdland Marina. I don’t get exactly how this works but sounds promising, especially for novices and families with little kids.  For more info: call 515-248-6314 or email tasmith@dmgov.org

Also available are basic canoeing classes (maybe I should sign my husband up….ha!) at Gray’s Lake that cost $25 as well as River Canoeing classes at “an undetermined river area.” hmmm….for more info, see www. dmced.org

 

 

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Edinburgh: “scottish hog roast rolls” (no haggis), Stockbridge, Portobello, Dean Village, Water of Leith

A storefront in Stockbridge

Friends are visiting Edinburgh this summer so here’s some finds, as requested, from my trip to Scotland in 2009:

–  My English pals and I  stayed with friends in their 1820 stone house  overlooking the sea in the pretty suburb of Portobello  – a town where Findlay’s butcher shop boasts that it has  world’s best haggis. We didn’t try it.

– Not far from the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle is a great take-away pork sandwich place called Oink (“delicious scottish hog roast  rolls”) that vegetarians will NOT enjoy since the pork is carved from a pig laid out in the front window. OINK is on Victoria Street in the old Grassmarket area http://www.grassmarket.net/grassmarkethistory.asp which is worth a wander.

–  There’s a  good pub, the Bailie, that we went to for lunch (good mussels in a whiskey/bacon sauce  and sticky toffee pudding) in an off-the-beaten track neighborhood with nice little boutiques and galleries called Stockbridge.

– From Stockbridge we stumbled upon a pretty country walkway along a small river  – right in the city – the Water of Leith that led to lovely old Dean Village and then to the Museum of Modern Art. (photo: Dean Village seen from the East side of the Water of Leith)

One of many Signposts

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Not quite as easy taking train back to Newark airport from manhattan

Not surprisingly, it was a little trickier finding the train back to Newark Airport from Manhattan because you have to figure out grubby subterranean Penn Station, which is one of my least favorite places in NYC (unlike the elegant airy Grand Central Station which is among my favorites.) When I got off the subway at 34th street and wandered into the station I had to figure out where the NJ Transit trains and then which ones go to the airport. I knew enough not to go to the LIRR (Long Island Railroad) which I’ve taken to the Hamptons many a time but wasn’t clear on whether my airport train was Amtrak or NJ Transit (fortunately I checked ahead on-line.) I ended up going to the ticket booth for NJ Transit to make sure I bought a ticket for the right train – then waited briefly with a clump of commuters staring at the departure screen to find out the gate for my train. It wasn’t that big a deal – once I found the right place to find the right train. There was no line at the ticket booth and the gate popped up quickly on the departure screen – it just wasn’t as obvious or easy as when you leave Newark Airport and take the internal airport monorail, the AirTrain, right to the station platform for the train to Manhattan. The trip including the subway from the upper upper west side took about 1.15 tops.  I also appreciated the announcement that airport passengers should NOT get off the train at the Newark Penn Station stop (which is one stop before the airport stop – and not to be confused with New York City’s Penn station.)  And one tip: hold onto your NJtransit ticket after the train ride when you arrive at the AirTrain, where you’re supposed to use it to get onto the AirTrain. (I couldn’t find mine but a nice guy at the tollbooth waved me through – and of course a few minutes later I did find the ticket  which I forgot I’d jammed in a pocket of my purse.)  I’d definitely fly into Newark again – especially given the fantastic direct flight from Des Moines.

 

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The Met’s Madame X, nearby Mad Men fav – William Greenberg Bakery (schnecken!) in NYC

What better place to spend a cold overcast day in New York City than the Metropolitan Museum of Art? I wasn’t the only one with this brilliant idea – the museum was packed last Tuesday, which is part of the fun of going to the museum (I spend as much time looking at the people as I do looking at the art.) I started in the revamped Arab Lands exhibit where I saw the new courtyard installed by artisans from the Middle East and admired the illustrated pages of the Qur’an, then just wandered through one exotic land after another thinking about my favorite book as a kid, From the Mixed Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler, by E.L. Konigsberg, where two kids ran away from home and lived in the Met, having a grand old time.  I ended up in the American wing – after a brief wander through the Modern Art area and the Medieval art area – and happily toured the historic rooms full of period decorative art from the Shakers through to Frank Lloyd Wright. I was particularly captivated this time by the Tiffany windows and blown glass bowls and vases. (Next time I’ll try to follow the tour in sequence so I can see the “progression” of style more clearly.)  Also enjoyed the room full of John Singer Sargent portraits including the one of the captivating  Madame X portrait. And I also happened upon Washington Crossing the Delaware.

Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau), 1883–84
John Singer Sargent (American, 1856–1925)
Oil on canvas

I ate a light lunch downstairs in the basement cafeteria, where I ended up talking with a woman from “rural” Long Island (Orient Point, which we passed through last summer when we took the ferry from Connecticut to Long Island) who “LOVES” Iowa and specifically Iowa City where she attended a U of Iowa Writers Workshop seminar.  (She even loved it after being evacuated from the campus – she was there during the horrific 2008 flood.)

After the museum, I wandered on Madison Avenue until I  found William Greenberg Desserts ( 1100 Madison Avenue.
btw 82nd and 83 Street ), a famous Jewish bakery with a delicacy from my childhood: schnecken, (featured in the photo above!) a sticky bun that’s sort of the Jewish version of a cinnamon role but crispier and with more cinnamon, pecans, and raisins. Fun Fact: on a recent episode of Mad Men,  Don’s new wife Megan gives Trudy a red tin full of Greenberg brownies as a hostess gift before an  awkward dinner party in Cos Cob. Trudy is most impressed!(“Our special sour cream yeast dough, rolled up with raisins, pecans, brown sugar and cinnamon. Our customers’ favorite for 50 years!” reports the handy Greenberg website where you can order gift tins – hint, hint family!) The bakery is also famous for its black and white cookies and rugalah.

Less impressive was the too-hard, too-expensive raisin and nut roll I picked up at E.A.T.

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The Beach Cafe- Don Antonio – French Roast – MOMA’s Cindy Sherman

Before the torrential downpour on Sunday, I went to brunch on the upper west side and brought bagels from my new favorite bagel shop in NYC, Absolute Bagels, which were a big hit with my relative – no easy feat.  Walked across Central Park in the drizzle, browsed through Peru guidebooks at Shakespeare and Co. books on Lexington and 69th before visiting my aunt. we went to dinner nearby at the Beach Cafe (69th and Second Avenue)- good spagbol and chicken pot pie, comfortable neighborhood spot. Tried to take a bus back to the upper west side but the nor’easter had begun and I was soaked and buffeted by the wind within 10 minutes so managed to find a cab. best $14 I’ve spent lately.

Monday, met my college friend C. for breakfast at French Roast on 85th and Broadway. Nice easy going place. good coffee and oatmeal. Then onto MOMA which was packed with people on a rainy Monday. Was glad I had gotten a tix in advance – there was a huge long line. I also see that there’s a slight discount if you buy the ticket online (maybe $22 vs. $25 per ticket). The Cindy Sherman show was fascinating – and enjoyed the Diego Rivera Murals exhibit. also really like the free audio tour.

Met my brother for a very good lunch at Don Antonio, a gourmet pizza place with reasonable prices and nice ambiance, on w. 50th near 8th Avenue. Then walked up Fifth – didn’t get the madhouse scene in front of Abercrombie and Fitch. I’m told people are standing in line to see the shirtless buff guys who wander around the store. I’ll pass.

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cafe habana, Tacombi, Zucco , Duane Street Patisserie – from soho to lower east side to tribeca in nyc

On another gorgeous day, I met my old friend M at Grand Central station where she arrived from Connecticut and we took off for five hours of walking and talking. Glorious. We started in Soho or near taking the #6 train to the Spring Street stop and from there somehow found our way past Lombardi’s pizza (have you noticed almost all of my visual landmarks are restaurants or food shops?) and a small outdoor crafts display (where I yet again bought a pair of earrings for one of my daughters) to Cafe Habana. We just missed rush hour and ordered at the counter, then ate outside on a red bench in the sunshine – cuban sandwich, grilled corn on the cob rolled in white stuff (queso?) and a jicama salad (too much food so M took the salad back to Connecticut.) A few doors down we spotted Tacombi, an airy garage with various stations serving tacos and beer – one station was an old VW bus selling tacos. Clever idea.

On the Lower East Side, we walked past the knish store on Houston, then quickly toured Russ and Daughters appetizers (just to look at the smoked fish, white fish salad and rugalah  so my pal M – who grew up in Forest Hills – could get a taste of home). We walked past a crowded tiny french diner called Zucco on Orchard Street that I’m listing here for future reference. Then we just kept walking through one vibrant neighborhood after another, tons of people walking around, sitting at outdoor cafes, the city never looked better. We passed through Chinatown, Little Italy, City Hall area (and before that a park full of Chinese people playing board games akin to checkers)while people gathered in a dense crowd around them watching intently. We ended up in Tribeca on Duane Street, which I finally found after several missteps – and we had cold drinks and two, only two, delicate chocolate-dipped leaf-shaped sugar cookies,  at the Duane Street Patisserie, popped into Lucca, the amazing furniture store, across the street, and at the little british store nearby (working class).  After  goodbye beers  at Cafe Centro on the east side of Grand Central, M left for home and I walked to have dinner with friends at a penthouse apartment on 1st and 33rd street across from NYU medical center with a beautiful view of the East River. Then back on the 34 bus to the #1 train to the opposite side of the city and the other river –  my friend’s apartment on Riverside drive overlooking the Hudson. Loved it all!

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Absolute Bagel-Rita’s frozen custard – Do Hwa korean food in NYC

I’ve been somewhat lost on the bagel front ever since H&M Bagels closed on the upper west side of NYC. But yesterday I stumbled into Absolute Bagels on Broadway near 107th street and was impressed with the bagels, not to mention the lox-cream cheese and bagel sandwich. So all  is not lost. A little further south as I was walking down Broadway on a spectacular spring day, I happened upon  Rita’s frozen custard – and since frozen custard something I rarely find these days, I bought a small cone. Yum. I walked all the way from 108th to Central Park (with a stop at Pinky’s for a splurge mani-pedi because my back was aching and I needed to rest for a bit) then back west to Lincoln Center where I took the #1 train to meet my brother and sister-in-law and her mother for dinner at an excellent Korean restaurant, Do Hwa, at 50  Carmine Street. Now I understand why they like Korean food! (we had very good bbq beef, bimimbob, a pancake with kimchi in it, and beignets, oddly, on the house.)

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Antiques in eastern Iowa!

Squiers Manor Bed & B

Newly married and new to Iowa (way back in 1990), we used some of our wedding gift money to buy some furniture at Banowetz Antiques in Maquoketa, Iowa. We still use the chair, end tables, dresser and dining room dresser, which have not only added character to our home but proved very functional. (They must have made stuff well 100 years or so ago.) So the news that Banowetz is not going out of business – as I’d once heard – is good. They’re having a “grand re-opening sale” at their new location at 123 McKinsey Drive in Maquoketa april 14-29. If you want to stay overnight, check out the Squiers Manor B&B, a gorgeous place the Banowetz family operates in town that,yes, is full of antiques. And it is Squiers (named after J.E. Squiers who built the brick Queen Anne style mansion in 1882.)

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getting from Newark Airport to Manhattan’s upper west side

Time to contemplate for real getting from Newark Airport to Manhattan’s upper west side since I’m going there next Thursday and it still looks like the Air Train is the best bet in terms of speed and price although I’m tempted to try the shuttle bus option on the way back to the airport. No way I’m paying $50-70 for a taxi.

Here’s what I picked off of, about.com (i think):

  • Air Train: The Air Train offers connecting service to NJ Transit and Amtrak trains which will bring you into Manhattan. Surprisingly, this can actually be much quicker than taking a cab or bus, and it is much more affordable. $11.55 one way will bring you from Newark Airport to Penn Station. AirTrain connects the NJ Transit “Newark Airport Station” to the airport terminals. Consult the schedule to determine the schedule of connecting trains. Service is available from 5 a.m. until 2 a.m.
  • Private Shuttles: Several companies offer shuttles to Manhattan, including:
    • Newark Liberty Airport Express : Available from 4 a.m. – 1 a.m., these shuttles leave every 15-30 minutes for midtown Manhattan and every 2 hours to downtown Manhattan (from 11:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.). One-way fare is $13, but you can save by buying round-trip tickets, as they are $22. One free child under 16 is included in the fare. You can choose to disembark at Grand Central, Port Authority or Penn Station, in addition to midtown hotels. The ride takes about an hour. Return schedules and more information are available on their website.
    • Super Shuttle: Available 24 hours a day, this shuttle provides door to door service for your party. Fares are $15 – $19, depending on destination. No reservations are required to get from the airport to your destination, but they are required for your return trip to the airport. Consult their website or call 1-800-258-3826 for more information. Book your SuperShuttle Transfer through Viator.

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a longtime fan of Iowa’s Loess Hills

While I’m at it, here’s a travel story I wrote about the Loess Hills many years ago for the DMRegister.

Loess Hills Loess Hills, Iowa (Sylvan Runkel Preserve)

A new observation area offers a glorious panoramic view of the short, soft hills.

By BETSY RUBINER
9/4/1997

Moorhead, Ia. – Talk about a deck with a view.

If you’re looking for a new way to take in a beautiful expanse of Iowa’s Loess Hills, check out the huge observation deck recently built near Preparation Canyon State Park, off Highway 183 between the small towns of Pisgah and Moorhead.

Several times the size of your average suburban back-yard number, this simple wooden deck sits on a hilltop overlook long known to locals as “The Spot.”

For good reason.

The spot offers a glorious panoramic view of the short, soft hills that are considered a geographical wonder. A narrow band of mini-mountains stretching from just north of Sioux City south to the Missouri border, the Loess Hills were fashioned from silt deposits or “loess” blown in from the Missouri River floodplain more than 14,000 years ago.

To find another area like it, you’d have to make a much longer trek – to China’s Yellow River.

Before the observation deck was built this spring, locals “used to just crawl up on top of the hill and sit there,” says 41-year Moorhead resident Pat Severson.

For good reason.

The spot marks the convergence of five different ridges. On high, the land seems to stretch forever, free of the stain of civilization. Sure, to the west, farms dot the Missouri Valley flatlands. But it’s still easy to pretend you’re all alone with the birds.

The deck extends outward, offering the kind of aerial view you get flying in a plane over Iowa. Looking down, you see a bumpy quilt, with alternating patches of lush green woods and grassy fields.

Getting to “The Spot” is half the fun. Driving south from Moorhead on Highway 183, you turn right on a road still described by locals as “the second right” even though it now sports a sign designating it as 314th Street (for the edification of the emergency medical service).

At the top of the hill, you jog to the right. (If you go left, you’re in the 344-acre Preparation Canyon State Park, the site of an 19th century Mormon settlement that’s now popular for hiking and picnics.) Soon after, you take another right onto a gravel road marked as Oak Avenue.

This puts you pretty much in the middle of nowhere.

But what ho! It’s a really big deck!

If you’re lucky – and chances are you will be – you’ll be the only one there. It’s so quiet you can hear the wind.

The deck is also wheelchair accessible, thanks to a long wide ramp winding up to it. There are also several benches on the deck from which to contemplate the view.

This spot really isn’t that hard to find but it’s wise to have more than a few gallons of gas in your tank when touring the Loess Hills. You may want to call the visitor’s center in Moorhead, in advance, to get a map of the area or drop by for one.

The map plots out several scenic loops through the Loess Hills; offers tips on highways most suitable for bicycles and cars; and marks Loess Hill attractions, large and small, from the De Soto National Wildlife Refuge to an abandoned country school.

Diligently detailed, the map also comes in handy for the adventurous traveler who likes to get lost. Plenty of remote roads winding through and around the Loess Hills will give you that impression. But just when you think you’re lost, you’ll come to an intersection – complete with street signs – and discover you’re not lost at all.

What ho! You’re at the corner of Olive Avenue and 235th Street. And there it is on the map.

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