Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Touring Iowa’s beautiful barns

The NYTimes travel section had a good story with great photos last week of barn touring in northeast Iowa around Decorah, one of my favorite Iowa cities. Here’s some tips on how/where to do it:

– The annual Iowa Barn Foundation All-State Barn Tour is scheduled this year for Sept. 22 and 23. (see: iowabarnfoundation.org)

– There’s also a barn tour in the Johnson county-Iowa City area on June 23 and 24.

– Stone-Haus Farm, a 165-year-old Norwegian farmstead in northeast iowa near Waukon, will soon be available for vacation rentals. (stonehausfarm.com) Photos below!

StoneHaus Farm

The NYTimes travel section had a good story with great photos last week of barn touring in northeast Iowa around Decorah, one of my favorite Iowa cities. Here’s some tips on how/where to do it:

– The annual Iowa Barn Foundation All-State Barn Tour is scheduled this year for Sept. 22 and 23. (see: iowabarnfoundation.org)

– There’s also a barn tour in the Johnson county-Iowa City area on June 23 and 24.

– Stone-Haus Farm, a 165-year-old Norwegian farmstead in northeast iowa near Waukon, will soon be available for vacation rentals. (stonehausfarm.com)

Leave a comment

Filed under Agritourism, Iowa, Iowa City

For future reference: the Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn

I do my best to avoid staying at a hotel when I’m in New York, and have been successful at that thanks to various friends and relatives with spare beds there. But should I have to book a hotel, The new Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn’s Williamburg are ,( my brother lives in Park Slope) looks like an interesting and surprisingly affordable option – starting at $179 a night according to a recent NYTimes T magazine spotlight story – the mini-bar, word has it, stocks house-made ice cream. Can’t beat that. And it’s farm-to-table restaurant Reynards  has a “staff butcher” who apparently butchers “locally raised animals.” How Brooklyn is that? The hotel partners include the operator of the “hipster (Brooklyn) canteens Marlow & Sons, Roman’s and Diner.”

Leave a comment

Filed under New York City

Pok Pok and Barbuto in NYC; Frontera Grill in Chicago

Thought of  recent dining adventures in  NYC, Chicago, and Portland, Oregon,  the other day when I read a NYTimes story about where top chefs go on the rare occasion when they don’t eat at their own restaurant.  Chef Daniel Boulud goes to Barbuto for Chef Jonathan Waxman’s roasted chicken, which my brother also has discovered. I had a good meal there with my brother and his wife in 2011. Ike's Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings

Also on the dining front, is Pok Pok NY in Brooklyn and Pok Pok Wing (see photo above of Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings)  on the Lower East Side.  My husband and I ate at the  original Pok Pok in Portland in 2010. (The chef Andy Ricker was named the Northwest’s best by the James Beard Foundation in 2011 so I bet it’s even harder to get a reservation now.) I see from the NYTimes that the two NYC-based Pok Poks have since opened. (Alas, we didn’t have the chicken wings when we went to Pok Pok in Portland. They look incredible! But it was very good Thai food by a non-Thai guy, which was the gist of the Times story. It also mentioned Rick Bayless and Frontera Grill/Xoco et. al.  in Chicago which I’ve been to many times over the years.)

Leave a comment

Filed under Chicago, New York City, Portland

Trying some new Des Moines restaurants – Host, Tartine, Zombie Burger

Sitting inside Host, a new restaurant in downtown Des Moines near the public library, is a bit like being inside a Meredith magazine shoot – as the friend I was eating with, a former Meredith employee, remarked. Clean, open, space, cute mismatched white shabby chic wooden chairs at metal tables, pretty little mural of birds and the phrase  “Excuse me while I kiss the sky” (a lyric to the Jimi Hendrix song Purple Haze,  that’s been misheard by many a listener as “excuse me while I kiss this guy”).  It’s a nice addition to the downtown dining scene, albeit a bit pricey (even if it offers locally-sourced fresh ingredients) – $10 for sandwich and a side. I had the excellent KPLT  Rye Panini with (Iowa producer)  La Quercia’s Tamworth  prosciutto, leeks, tomatoes & Gruyere on excellent hearty wheat bread toast. My friend had a very tasty curried-chicken salad made with big chunks of real chicken, yellow raisins and nuts served on a brioche which she was pleased to find wasn’t sweet.

 La Quercia Logo

I finally tried Zombie Burger, eating on the carry-out side of the outdoor patio and I thought the place was fun and the food okay. I had the Zombie Burger – just a basic cheeseburger with the American cheese (not my fav) and zombie sauce (spruced-up Russian Dressing from what I could tell.) My husband had a double patty burger with blue cheese and carmelized onion. Even better. It’s basically a fast food burger in a less fast-food setting. (For a great burger – and one that’s prepared to my specifications, i.e. rare – I’ll still go to Star Bar on Ingersoll Ave. in Des Moines.) I had heard some rumblings about the bad fries at Zombie Burger. Not true – in my view. The fries were great – too great, actually.

I also tried Tartine in Clive again – was impressed again but still wish it was in a different location, with less of a suburban strip-mall vibe, and was open past 8 p.m. for dinner (so I could try the burgers and frites, which look really good).  I had a very rich spinach and bacon quiche (which I could eat only half of) and my friend had what looked like a light fluffy “Garden omelet” with arugula, portobello mushrooms and chevre. Both entrees came with a choice of side for $8. A small selection of elegant baked goods for dessert looked delicious.

Leave a comment

Filed under Des Moines

Trying a new (new to us) trail in Des Moines

One effect of the new signs posted along the many miles of trails in Des Moines, for us, is that it has tempted us to go in new directions. So yesterday, we rode  along the Waveland Trail  from the Franklin Library south toward the Walnut Creek Trail  (Am I the only one who can’t keep track of the names of theses trails?)  to a point just south of 63rd Street and Grand, where we decided to go west instead of our usual east and see if we could connect to the Jordan Creek Trail we’ve tried off and on in the past.

We were able to go further than we remembered on a trail, crossing busy 63rd Street just north of the river and riding on a levee. But not too scenic. Very industrial with a gravel pit. After awhile we ended up coasting along E.P. True Parkway – a little too suburban and close to traffic for our tastes. We ended up in a pleasant pocket park near Fairmeadows School where we had a picnic, then wound our way back east through Valley Junction (stopping briefly at an art fair there) then got back on the trail at 63rd and Grand and headed our usual direction – East.  Which we enjoyed even more after our ride west. We also stopped for the first time at Mullet’s – just south of Principal Park where we had a drink on the top deck with a superb view to the north of the big city.

I did find a map today of Jordan Creek Trail http://www.wdm-ia.com/Modules/ShowDocument.aspx?documentid=297 and next time, it looks like we should head west from Fairmeadows School. And we should check out the new trail extension circles the 230-acre lake in Raccoon River Park.

 

 

Leave a comment

Filed under bike trails, Des Moines

Grab that pitchfork for an “American Gothic” photo op in Eldon, Iowa

A long time ago, I visited the sweet little house in Eldon, Iowa that Grant Wood based his iconic “American Gothic” portrait on – but now apparently you can borrow a pitchfork, overalls and glasses when you pose in front of the house, as we all tend to do there. The house is now owned by the Iowa State Historical Society. Other Grant Wood sight-seeing options, according to Iowa Farm Bureau’s Family Living (full disclosure: my husband edits it) include:

– The Grant Wood Studio and Armstrong Visitor Center in Cedar Rapids, open for tours on weekend afternoons.

– The Cedar Rapids Museum of Art which has the world’s largest collection of Grant Wood paintings (but if you want to see “American Gothic” you’ll have to visit the Chicago Art Institute.)

– I didn’t know that Wood designed a  sun porch  at the Brucemore estate in Cedar Rapids.

– Anamosa has the Grant Wood Art Gallery and Riverside Cemetery where Grant is buried. The 40th Annual Grant Wood Art Festival will be held there on Sunday, June 10, 2012 from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm. (I thought it was held in Stone City, where Wood ran a summer art school in the early 1930s.)

– For more info on the Grant Wood Trail,  which includes 19 sites across Iowa, most free, see: http://www.crma.org (and click on the “Grant Wood” tab.)

Leave a comment

Filed under Iowa

Can-u Canoe? A free canoe float down the Des Moines River

Free 30-minute canoe floats are being offered to Des Moines residents (don’t know if non-Des Moines residents can join the fun) on June 17, July 15 and August 19 from 12-4 p.m., starting at Prospect Park and ending in Birdland Marina. I don’t get exactly how this works but sounds promising, especially for novices and families with little kids.  For more info: call 515-248-6314 or email tasmith@dmgov.org

Also available are basic canoeing classes (maybe I should sign my husband up….ha!) at Gray’s Lake that cost $25 as well as River Canoeing classes at “an undetermined river area.” hmmm….for more info, see www. dmced.org

 

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Des Moines

Edinburgh: “scottish hog roast rolls” (no haggis), Stockbridge, Portobello, Dean Village, Water of Leith

A storefront in Stockbridge

Friends are visiting Edinburgh this summer so here’s some finds, as requested, from my trip to Scotland in 2009:

–  My English pals and I  stayed with friends in their 1820 stone house  overlooking the sea in the pretty suburb of Portobello  – a town where Findlay’s butcher shop boasts that it has  world’s best haggis. We didn’t try it.

– Not far from the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle is a great take-away pork sandwich place called Oink (“delicious scottish hog roast  rolls”) that vegetarians will NOT enjoy since the pork is carved from a pig laid out in the front window. OINK is on Victoria Street in the old Grassmarket area http://www.grassmarket.net/grassmarkethistory.asp which is worth a wander.

–  There’s a  good pub, the Bailie, that we went to for lunch (good mussels in a whiskey/bacon sauce  and sticky toffee pudding) in an off-the-beaten track neighborhood with nice little boutiques and galleries called Stockbridge.

– From Stockbridge we stumbled upon a pretty country walkway along a small river  – right in the city – the Water of Leith that led to lovely old Dean Village and then to the Museum of Modern Art. (photo: Dean Village seen from the East side of the Water of Leith)

One of many Signposts

–

Leave a comment

Filed under Scotland

Not quite as easy taking train back to Newark airport from manhattan

Not surprisingly, it was a little trickier finding the train back to Newark Airport from Manhattan because you have to figure out grubby subterranean Penn Station, which is one of my least favorite places in NYC (unlike the elegant airy Grand Central Station which is among my favorites.) When I got off the subway at 34th street and wandered into the station I had to figure out where the NJ Transit trains and then which ones go to the airport. I knew enough not to go to the LIRR (Long Island Railroad) which I’ve taken to the Hamptons many a time but wasn’t clear on whether my airport train was Amtrak or NJ Transit (fortunately I checked ahead on-line.) I ended up going to the ticket booth for NJ Transit to make sure I bought a ticket for the right train – then waited briefly with a clump of commuters staring at the departure screen to find out the gate for my train. It wasn’t that big a deal – once I found the right place to find the right train. There was no line at the ticket booth and the gate popped up quickly on the departure screen – it just wasn’t as obvious or easy as when you leave Newark Airport and take the internal airport monorail, the AirTrain, right to the station platform for the train to Manhattan. The trip including the subway from the upper upper west side took about 1.15 tops.  I also appreciated the announcement that airport passengers should NOT get off the train at the Newark Penn Station stop (which is one stop before the airport stop – and not to be confused with New York City’s Penn station.)  And one tip: hold onto your NJtransit ticket after the train ride when you arrive at the AirTrain, where you’re supposed to use it to get onto the AirTrain. (I couldn’t find mine but a nice guy at the tollbooth waved me through – and of course a few minutes later I did find the ticket  which I forgot I’d jammed in a pocket of my purse.)  I’d definitely fly into Newark again – especially given the fantastic direct flight from Des Moines.

 

Leave a comment

Filed under New York City

The Met’s Madame X, nearby Mad Men fav – William Greenberg Bakery (schnecken!) in NYC

What better place to spend a cold overcast day in New York City than the Metropolitan Museum of Art? I wasn’t the only one with this brilliant idea – the museum was packed last Tuesday, which is part of the fun of going to the museum (I spend as much time looking at the people as I do looking at the art.) I started in the revamped Arab Lands exhibit where I saw the new courtyard installed by artisans from the Middle East and admired the illustrated pages of the Qur’an, then just wandered through one exotic land after another thinking about my favorite book as a kid, From the Mixed Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler, by E.L. Konigsberg, where two kids ran away from home and lived in the Met, having a grand old time.  I ended up in the American wing – after a brief wander through the Modern Art area and the Medieval art area – and happily toured the historic rooms full of period decorative art from the Shakers through to Frank Lloyd Wright. I was particularly captivated this time by the Tiffany windows and blown glass bowls and vases. (Next time I’ll try to follow the tour in sequence so I can see the “progression” of style more clearly.)  Also enjoyed the room full of John Singer Sargent portraits including the one of the captivating  Madame X portrait. And I also happened upon Washington Crossing the Delaware.

Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau), 1883–84
John Singer Sargent (American, 1856–1925)
Oil on canvas

I ate a light lunch downstairs in the basement cafeteria, where I ended up talking with a woman from “rural” Long Island (Orient Point, which we passed through last summer when we took the ferry from Connecticut to Long Island) who “LOVES” Iowa and specifically Iowa City where she attended a U of Iowa Writers Workshop seminar.  (She even loved it after being evacuated from the campus – she was there during the horrific 2008 flood.)

After the museum, I wandered on Madison Avenue until I  found William Greenberg Desserts ( 1100 Madison Avenue.
btw 82nd and 83 Street ), a famous Jewish bakery with a delicacy from my childhood: schnecken, (featured in the photo above!) a sticky bun that’s sort of the Jewish version of a cinnamon role but crispier and with more cinnamon, pecans, and raisins. Fun Fact: on a recent episode of Mad Men,  Don’s new wife Megan gives Trudy a red tin full of Greenberg brownies as a hostess gift before an  awkward dinner party in Cos Cob. Trudy is most impressed!(“Our special sour cream yeast dough, rolled up with raisins, pecans, brown sugar and cinnamon. Our customers’ favorite for 50 years!” reports the handy Greenberg website where you can order gift tins – hint, hint family!) The bakery is also famous for its black and white cookies and rugalah.

Less impressive was the too-hard, too-expensive raisin and nut roll I picked up at E.A.T.

Leave a comment

Filed under museum exhibit, New York City