Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

British breakfast (what else? Scottish breakfast?) at The Royal Mile in Des Moines

 

 

On a bike ride Sunday through Des Moines we were looking for a place to stop for brunch downtown after finding Mullet’s  oversubscribed (perhaps it’s because there was a Cubs game happening soon at the stadium across the river from Mullets’s.) We chanced upon The Royal Mile and glad we did – the brunch menu had a wide selection (“American” and “British” breakfast) and the cozy pub interior was busy but not packed so we got a table for five easily. My poached eggs with Guinness roasted potatos and banger sausage was hearty, tasty. The Bloody Mary, a muddy brownish-red was spicey and good – it came with a little chaser of beer (never seen that before) that I gave to my coffee-drinking husband. The corned beef hash came with cubes of corn beef – I prefer shredded bits (aka “hash). The breakfast pastie – sort of cross between a Cornish pastie and an omelet – was heavy but good flavor. So we’ll be back if we’re in need of brunch. We rode an extra 5 miles or so (we’re not exactly sure since our speedometer is broken) on the Great Western Trail south of Cumming (Iowa) to work off, we hope, some of our brunch.

 

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Fairfield Loop Trail, Istanbul Grill, Everybody’s Whole Foods, Snake Alley/ Burlington

On the Fairfield Loop Trail

On the Fairfield Loop Trail

We completed (almost) the other half of the Fairfield Loop Trail heading south to two pretty old 1910 barns and very rural landscape past pastures and farmsteads during our last day in Fairfield, Iowa. Would have been perfect if not for the gravel surface which I find nerve wracking, especially going downhill where at least once we came upon an even thicker pile of gravel, poorly marked with a sun-faded orange flag. It could have been a disaster if we’d been riding fast. The trail to the north also had irritating speed bumps.  (A friend in Des Moines just broke her collarbone riding through a small patch of gravel on an otherwise-paved trail here.)

We ended up taking a “short cut” of sorts through a very wooded trail in Jefferson County Park, riding on red pine needles atop packed earth and hoping we didn’t run into a deer or contract Lyme Diseast. It’s as close as I want to get to mountain biking.

For lunch we split a delicious lamb kebab, hummus and falafal at Istanbul Grill, the first Turkish restaurant I have found in Iowa (although the food seemed more middle eastern than the Turkish food I remember when I was there in, um, 1982.) We stopped again at Everybody’s Whole Foods but no movie star sightings this time!

We also drove east to the old river town of Burlington, which has gorgeous restored brick homes atop a bluff overlooking the Mississippi. We made the obligatory drive down Snake Alley, the crazy curves street that rivals San Francisco’s Lombard Street. we just missed a nutty road race where cyclists bike up the narrow bricked Snake Alley. Yikes!

This morning at breakfast we learned a little more about Maharishi U from several other guests at our inn. One man had just earned his PHD, I think in management, (whatever the Marharishi version is of that) and another man, a police officer  outside Chicago who is involved in community policing was in town for a TM course. Apparently people apply TM to their study of traditional academic subjects and to their everyday careers, as well as other aspects of their lives. (Just fyi: the student center at Maharishi U had some really nice clothes but I discovered after my purchases that they all smell heavily of incense.)

Burlington's Snake Alley

Burlington’s Snake Alley

 

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Going Gothic, meeting a movie star in the grocery store: Southeast Iowa!

imageI knew this trip to southeast Iowa would be interesting but it was even more than expected. We stopped in the tiny town of Eldon Iowa and followed the occasional signs to the American Gothic house, made famous by Grant Wood who painted his famous portrait at this sweet little house with the Gothic window. The visitors center had costumes in all shapes and sizes for people who wanted to recapture the magic, so why not. I tried to produce my most dour face but not before cracking up.

We dutifully stood in line outside the house for some of the famous pile backed fresh by a woman who actually rents the house and decided to make and sell pies. The wait was ridiculously long but the pie was ridiculously good. Warm strawberry crumble pie wrapped for us in a brown paper bag with a pretty blue and white ribbon.

On to the villages of van buren county, pretty old tiny towns along the Des Moines river with stately red brick homes and mills, and then to our real destination, Fairfield. I was last here about 23 years ago and meant to return sooner. Interesting things going on here ever since the Maharishi Yogi’s representatives bought a defunct college here and made it into an internationally known center for peoplewho practice   transcendental meditation.  They are called “floaters” because apparently they levitate while doing TM in the golden domes on campus. There is also a Maharishi Business school here so the town’s pretty square is full of entrepreneurial efforts, ethnic restaurants (Indian, Turkish, Thai, etc) and galleries and shops. Plus there are lots of stately homes like the one we are sleeping in tonight, The Seven Roses Inn. We rode the gravel loop trail, which was fun and goes for about 15 miles. Stopped for a drink at funky cafe Paradiso, had so-so Indian food at the India cafe and went to check out the Raj spa and hotel here and the even more fascinating Vedic City, a brand new city built by TM-ers. Surprisingly lovely homes all facing east and with little nipple like ornaments on the roof in keeping with some mystic form off Vedic architecture.

Then I decide to go into the whole food grocery store at 9 pm because I always enjoy a good whole foods grocery store and there wasn’t much else to do and first thing I see: actor Jim Carey getting some of the areas famous Radiance Ice Cream (I think the cows do TM or some such). We heard he was in town today, giving the commencement speech at Maharishi U.  But figured he was jetting back to LA. he couldn’t have been nicer and the day couldn’t have ended with a bigger bang.

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Dining options during evening bike rides in Des Moines

magnolia kitchen & grocery.jpg

Above is a rendering of what the Magnolia Kitchen & Grocery food truck will look like.(Photo: Special to th

In preparation for Ragbrai, we are trying to ride our bikes at least one weekday evening a week – often Tuesdays so we can eat at Tacopocalypse stand outside the Cumming Tap (in the small town of Cumming, Iowa.) But sometimes we ride on Wednesday or Thursday on the Great Western Trail south from Des Moines when tacos aren’t an option at Cumming Tap (Wednesday, we discovered last week, is steak night there, which is a bit heavy for us.)

So I was pleased to see other options available in Jennifer Miller’s latest excellent food column for the Des Moines Register. See below! They’re not in Cumming but they are along our bike route, which includes Gray’s Lake (where Confluence Brewing is located) and the trail at 63rd and Grand (where Pal Joey’s Lounge is).

Here’s the options:

TUESDAY Magnolia Kitchen & Grocery at Pal Joey’s Lounge; Tacopacalypse at Cumming Tap

WEDNESDAY Magnolia Kitchen & Grocery at Confluence Brewing 

THURSDAY  Magnolia Kitchen & Grocery at 515 Brewing on Friday evenings or The Levee, patio on the east end of Court Avenue. Woody’s Smoke Shack food, and Confluence  beers.  open 4 p.m. to midnight Thursday.

FRIDAY  The Levee, patio on the east end of Court Avenue. Woody’s Smoke Shack food, and Confluence  beers.  open 4 p.m. to midnight Thursday.

SATURDAY   The Levee, patio on the east end of Court Avenue. Woody’s Smoke Shack food, and Confluence  beers.  open 9 p.m. to midnight

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Des Moines, DINING

Eatery A – Malo – Des Moines!

seedcornphoto (57)Eatery A was as busy and noisy on a Saturday night as expected last weekend – also fun and good food so that helped. Located in a former Blockbuster video store on Ingersoll Avenue in Des Moines, the restaurant is a mashup of middle eastern and Italian from what I can tell. Lots of lamb, pizza, harissa, figs, dates, feta. We ordered a few too many things with figs – including a pizza with figs and proscuitto and greens and a green salad with figs. But the lamb sliders were excellent as was the “cucumber salad” – although it was more delicate fresh greens, including a free mint leaves, with some cucumber slices, feta, pomegrate seeds and a tangy lemon dressing. The desserts were interesting – we had “donuts” served with lemon curd, which were a bit like beignets, light fried dough dusted with sugar and a cake made with cornmeal or polenta that had an odd but interesting crunchy texture, served with a dollop of very good dark chocolate ice cream. The decor is lots of distressed wood that looks like it’s from an old barn and fun chandeliers. It was a bit too dark to be able to read the menu – especially the red section of the menu. We had to use our cellphone flashlights. We’ll be back.

We also peaked in at Malo, the new Latin restaurant opening this week in the way cool new former 1930’s firehouse location of the Des Moines Social Club – how great to have all these new options in Des Moines. We also wandered over to nearby West End Architectural Salvage, which had some great albeit pricey crafts including some terrific bags made out of old seed corn bags.socialclubphoto (56)

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING

Tacopocalypse, The Cheese Shop, Creme, Trellis – expanding dining scene in Des Moines!

It really struck me last weekend when I celebrated my birthday on several occasions that Des Moines has so many more interesting dining options than it used to have, just a few years ago. Here’s a few:

Tacopocalypse – This hipster taco place in the East Village serves some creative tacos – including Korean versions like bulgogi – in a funky old building just east of the restaurant Alba. It was a little too quiet on a Saturday afternoon – but nice to be able to sail in and out quickly mid-bike ride. (We originally tried Zombie Burger but it was way too packed and the wait way too long.) Our favorite was the lemongrass pork taco but also want to try the sesame pork and one of the bahn mi sandwiches next time.

– The Cheese Shop – I’ve been here for lunch before but not for a pre-theater snack, which it turned out to be perfect for. On a Saturday at 5:30 the little place in the Roosevelt Shopping Center was packed but we still found a table and had a lovely cheese board and some hard cider for me (hazy dazy…good!) and beer for D. Just enough to last through a performance of the fantastic musical “Once” at the Des Moines Civic Center.

– Creme – And then after the theater we went for dessert and a drink (tea for me, wine for D) at this cute little place off of Ingersoll Avenue. I had an over-the-top flourless chocolate torte. Dirck was very happy with his pineapple upside down carrot cake. Cute place and glad to see it busy too at 11 p.m. on a Saturday night.

– Trellis – On Sunday at 11 we met two friends who also have April birthdays for our traditional joint b’day celebration, this time at this lovely  new restaurant (-top photo) at the Des Moine Botanical Center, which is getting a major overhaul and already looks much better. The chef is a friend, the talented Lisa LaValle, who used to work magic at the Des Moines Art Center restaurant and is doing it again at the Botanical Center. I particularly liked my red curry chicken soup – and my bloody Mary – and a superb piece of strawberry rhubarb pie (a b’day treat from Lisa.) There’s a cool exhibit of hanging plants (for lack of a better description) at the Botanical Center right now and I was impressed with the high-quality crafts and toys and garden-related stuff in the gift shop. We’ll be back!

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Kinky Boots and Paul Taylor Dance coming to Des Moines

Kinky Boots (musical poster).jpg

Always look forward this time of year to finding out what shows will be coming to Des Moines during the 2014-2015 season – and as usual there are a few I’m excited about! Paul Taylor Dance comes on Nov. 8 to the Civic Center – following on the heels of the wildly successful visit by Alvin Ailey Dance in March, this is a good sign of more topnotch dance to come, which has been sorely missing in Des Moines and in Iowa City since the demise of Hancher Auditorium (soon to rise again on higher ground!). Also excited to see “Kinky Boots” – the Tony award-winning best musical. Saw the movie – look forward to seeing the show. Feel the same about “Once” which I’ll see next week on my birthday. What a treat!

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When next in L.A….stuff to check out

This from a recent list in the NYTimes T Magazine recommended by Dean Wareham, a singer and guitarist who recently moved to LA after many moons in Brooklyn! (Maybe that’s a trend, seeing as my brother just did the same…Or one more example and we’ve got a “trend”…)

 

Hollywood Farmers Market
“We have an avocado tree in our backyard, but the squirrels get to them before we do. This is one of the only places we can walk to, and we go every Sunday. The produce is amazing. I buy the fruits, Britta buys the vegetables.”
Ivar Avenue and Selma Avenue between Hollywood Boulevard and Sunset Boulevard; Sundays, 8 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Chichen Itza restaurant
“This place is in a kind of cheap mall downtown. Jonathan Gold wrote about it. It’s Yucatan cuisine. I don’t know how it’s different from other Mexican food — I’m not expert enough. But it’s great.”
3655 South Grand Avenue; chichenitzarestaurant.com.

Vermont Canyon Tennis Courts
“It is much easier to exercise out here. And right over here in Griffith Park, it costs five dollars an hour to play tennis, whereas in New York, you’ve got to get a season pass, and it’s a luxury. I go to the courts up Vermont, right by the little golf course. I took my son there three times a week last summer.”
2715 Vermont Canyon Road; laparks.org.

Books on L.A.
“When I got here, the first thing my friend gave me was Reyner Banham’s famous and controversial book, ‘Los Angeles: The Architecture of Four Ecologies.’ I also loved ‘City of Nets,’ by Otto Friedrich. It’s a great look at Hollywood in the ’40s, with a focus on Europeans like Thomas Mann and Stravinsky. Bertolt Brecht lived up Argyle Avenue, right over here. He was the most famous playwright in the world, but he was in Hollywood writing out of his native language, and he was broke.”

Largo at the Coronet
“‘City of Nets’ was recommended to me by Flanny, the owner at Largo, where we’ve played. In fact, he sells copies at the concession stand there. He likes it because his new location (in the old Coronet Theater) is mentioned in the book; it is where Brecht and Charles Laughton staged ‘Life of Galileo.’ Brecht was my hero at age 17, and to perform on the very same stage was cool.”
366 North La Cienega Boulevard; largo-la.com.

Cinefamily
“This is an old silent movie theater. They show movies that don’t get a wide release. I went and saw ‘Once Upon a Time in America,’ the Sergio Leone three-hour epic. And a lot of comedy stuff, too. We’ve played there, and Britta did a reading there once.”
611 North Fairfax Avenue; cinefamily.org.

Acting

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Good food irritating service at the “new” Proof in Des Moines

We finally got around to trying the “new” Proof restaurant in Des Moines which has been under new ownership for some time.  The food was pretty good – especially the meat (pork, steak) which was well-seasoned and presented – but the server was way overbearing, which was irritating.

If you’re truly a sophisticated restaurant, you don’t need to point this out repeatedly to your diners. Nor do you need to repeatedly ask for feedback (i.e. compliments because really, what else will a polite diner say to the server’s question “How was it?” – although after hearing this several times, I was ready to growl.) To make matters worse, the actual serving of the dishes was slow and mismanaged – so the bread came long after the salad (which to my mind didn’t have enough dressing or dressing with flavor, although the greens were good) and the coffee was going to come so long after the excellent desserts that we cancelled it. The menu – which came in three pieces also needed streamlining. We were dining to catch up with old friends, not to do some light or not-so-light reading.

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Joys of the Burbank Airport

Terminal building at Bob Hope Airport

A week ago we were wending our way home from green and sunny Los Angeles (now we’ve got snow again in Iowa grrrr) and appreciating the ease of traveling through the Burbank “Bob Hope” Airport. It cost considerably more to fly home from Burbank rather than LAX but man was it worth it – considering that we had a 3 p.m. flight (rather than the early morning flights available from LAX) and the airport is about 10 minutes from my brother’s house in Burbank. It’s a surprisingly tiny, pokey place – reminds me of Des Moines’ airport before it got bigger and busier. (Oddly our plane from Burbank to Denver was much smaller than the plane from Denver to Des Moines. )

One other tip: it pays to ask when you’re dealing with a tight connection in Denver. We chanced a 35-40 minute connection between United flights in Denver and even though our flight left almost on time from Burbank (10 minutes late technically), making our connecting flight was touch-and-go. The connecting flight was in the same Terminal B but about 60 gates away. I ended up asking an airport employee standing behind a desk with a disabled sign on it how long it would take to get to that far-away gate and without batting an eyelash, he offered to drive us in his cart – which saved the day. We got to the gate as people were boarding. (He did accept a tip – we weren’t sure of the protocol.)

Boarding from Terminal B

 

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Filed under airfare, California, Colorado, Los Angeles