Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

Trying out Lurra Cocina in downtown Des Moines

We tried out the new Spanish restaurant Lurra Cocina in downtown Des Moines last Saturday night with friends and it’s  off to a good start but could use some refinements. For starters, the “one-person” paella should be considerably bigger. Good flavor and seafood/meat in the dish but surprisingly skimpy portion.  Especially if you’re going to charge $18, there should be more rice at a minimum. I’ve never ordered or made paella that didn’t produce leftovers…But this time, I was almost hungry after I ate it. Others enjoyed their hanger steak and pork dishes.

The appetizers were good – especially the stuffed dates (and I don’t even like dates  much). And I was very impressed with the flan which wasn’t too sweet or too heavy. Crunchy churros with chocolate dipping sauce were delicious too.  Atmosphere was pleasant – a bit loud but not too and fun to have the big picture windows looking out on a suddenly hopping downtown restaurant scene!

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING

Ceviche Bar restaurant in Des Moines – has potential…

Just back from first visit to the new little hole-in-the-wall restaurant Ceviche Bar, in Des Moines’ East Village, and sort of a mixed bag. The meal I had was good – but not what I ordered or even near. (I’ll explain later) The the service was confused at best (which actually is the main reason why I didn’t get the meal I ordered.)

The place just opened and got a good write up in the local paper so that is probably why they seemed completely overwhelmed. I ordered ceviche (which seemed a good bet given the name) but instead was served a plate with chicken and rice smothered in an orange-red sauce. The server explained that they’d run out of ceviche so they brought me the day’s special. Why they didn’t give me the option to order something else, I don’t know. But the chicken looked good – and was good. Delicious in fact – very tender chicken and the sauce’s defining flavor was salt, which might not be very complex but was tasty. I never received my cuban coffee. My companion got part of the meal she ordered (a cuban sandwich that was pretty ordinary – nothing like the amazing one Rick Bayless serves at Torta in Chicago’s O’Hare Airport or Xoco in Chicago), with missing rice that she reordered. Whatever. We shared a small disc of flan – good flavor and texture. Not too sweet and held together well. The place is cheerful and small and I’ll wait awhile before returning so they can iron out some of the kinks. Overall, a nice addition to the dining scene here.

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING

Detroit: Heidelberg Project, Eastern Market, Devries Market, Detroit golf course

1detroitbostonbluvNoah in Det. 2Another busy day exploring Detroit. We went to The Heidelberg Project, a crazy art installation that is located on two blocks of inner city Detroit that looks more rural than urban these days, with many vacant lots full between the occasional inhabited house in various degrees of disrepair. Some of the houses have become canvases outside (the polka dot house was my favorite) and then there are piles of strange objects strewn across he lots — old appliances, lots of stuffed animals, dolls, signs painted as clocks, shoes.

Interesting to see white non detroiters walking around a neighborhood they would ordinarily never feel comfortable walking through.

We went on to Eastern Market, had a coffee at Germack’s and walked though the old Hirt building that is now Devries Market, great old red brick building with wood floors and tons of Detroit Classic foods (vernors, sanders , dried Cherries).

Couldn’t resist driving home along Woodward avenue, stopping around 7 mile to see the fancy houses along the Detroit golf course, then to Sherwood. Forest and Palmer woods. Even stopped at my old pediatricians office which was in a house on seven mile and park side. (That photo is Noah in front of his great-grandparents’ house on Boston Avenue/Blvd. in Detroit.)

We did do a little exploring in ferndale (rust belt market) and Royal oak (atomic coffee, which has very good homemade lemonade and comfortable cheerful white and orang patio furniture.) Also had frozen custard at a stand on Woodward near 14 mile that had sanders hot fudge.) Yes, I am going to roll home.

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Detroit: Motown museum, slow’s BBQ, pewabic pottery, Avalon bakery, shinola,

1detroitmotown 2First stop Shinola, where we admired the sleek decor, the watches and bikes and almost total absence of price tags. next door at willy’s, a high-priced boutique, then to jolly pumpkin  for a light lunch in cool post industrial decor (Korean short rib pizza with arugula; curried potato chips.

we dropped by the Avalon bakery on the Wayne state campus which I’ve heard about for years. Amazing to see all the development going on. And really nice to see people walking around downtown where Hudson’s used to be and eating outside at a cafe.

Next stop: Pewabic pottery, a national historic landmark and a drive down Iriquois Street in Indian village lined with gorgeous well tended homes and gardens and yards and then, a stones throw away on charlevoix, classic urban blight with crumbling old houses and weed strewn empty lots.

onto Hitsville USA: the Motown museum in two of the eight houses where berry Gordy built his empire. A really fun tour full of music and interesting stories and memorabilia. It’s a very low tech exhibit which ai appreciated – you got to stand in the recording studio where many soon to be famous performers created their hits and the old 1960s office and living quarters. Our tour guide was young and enthusiastic and the tour ended with us all winding and dancing a Motown tune. Two Japanese tourists and a Brit among us.

Tonight we went to slow’s BBQ, in the shadow of the former crumbling train station, once a symbol of Detroit decay and now a symbol of its revival, as it is being rebuilt and repurposed.

Forgot to mention that we started by dropping by my great grandfather’s old house on the still elegant Boston Blvd.

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Driving from Chicago to Detroit: decisions

Decision #1: i90 skyway (about $7 tolls total) or i94? My dad suggested the tollway so we tried for the first time. Not the worlds best road (construction) but maybe not as bad as i94 thru Gary.

Decison#2:all important where to eat lunch? We stopped in the pretty lakeside town of st. Joseph and found a good place Cafe Tosi (good tuna melt…tuna with artichokes, feta) and muffuletta.

decision #3: where to stop for fruit. Exit 39 on i94 in Michigan at the stand we think is called fruit acres for good peaches and blueberries. Free samples are not slices of fruit but a whole peach or apple or whatever.

Decidon#4: dinner in Chicago last night. We ate at one of our old favorites…Andy’s Thai kitchen.

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Iowa state fair 2015: heat, prez politics, cattleman’s

As I was adding a kernel of corn to the jar labeled “Clinton” ( as part of a highly unscientific tv station prez politics poll)  some old crank grumbled “She won’t win.” Then he dropped a kernel into the Trump jar, and I couldn’t resist coming right back at him with “he won’t win.” So it goes during this Iowa State Fair during the run-up to the Iowa caucuses.

I was surprised to see how tiny the Des Moines Register’s soapbox is, where presidential candidates can hold court, if they can bear a heckler or two. Sunday’s selection was less than thrilling — Ben Carson (who I’ve already seen twice, without trying at the farmers market downtown) and George Pataki. My husband got to see Marco Rubio, amidst a sea of umbrellas on a very wet Tuesday at the fair.
Other fair impressions:
— we were astonished to see that the top prize is $2000 for the winning “casual appetizer” in the food hall. I am trying to convince my sister in law to enter next year (mums the world that she lives in LA.) another $2000 purse for the top bacon dessert.
– we finally tried the cattleman’s beef quarters for dinner. Good ribeye sandwich but couldn’t bear to try the hot beef sundae on a hot and humid day. next year, must try the lamb again.

– no real birds this year in “the avenue of breeds” due to the avian flu outbreak but the ceramic chickens on display instead was sweet. I did get an egg on a stick in the ag building..
– we seemed to know every other young wholesome kid working the applelicious food booths

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Iowa State Fair (and fair food) here we come!

We are looking forward to some of our fair food favorites for dinner tonight ‘
  •  ice cream at the dairy barn (we love the peppermint squares from Bauders – in photo – but can get those during the year in Des Moines)
  • pork chop (not on a stick) at the pork producers’ spot or lamb (my preference) at the less popular lamb producers’ spot) or ribeye steak sandwich from the Cattleman’s stand (never tried but well-recommended, as is the “”Hot Beef Sundae” which doesn’t sound appetizing in 90-degree weather)
  •  hard-boiled egg on a stick (given out free in the ag hall, even with avian flu jacking up prices)
  • fresh squeezed lemonade.
  • and maybe a cinnamon roll to take home for breakfast tomorrow… at Buni’s.

Also may try out some new things recommended  this story from the DSM Register on Fair Food.

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Filed under DINING, Iowa

Canoeing on the raccoon river near linden, Iowa

We have been curious about the Raccoon River after riding alongside it on the bike trail between Redfield and Panora, iowa. Today, we finally rented a canoe and tried out a five mile stretch. Nice. The river is fairly narrow and bends gently this way and that, with long stretches of placid waters broken up by short fairly mild rapids. The banks are lined with woods and corn fields, with the occasional muddy sandbar. Much of the time we had the river to ourselves until we neared the end and ran into a half dozen rowdy kayakers. we rented from Linden rentals, a guy with some canoes and kayaks who lives on the tiny Main Street. Worked out well. We stopped on the way back at the busy Dairy Shoppe in Redfield. next time we will are to put out a little further along, at the Redfield dam.

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Ragbrai 2015 – greatest hits….

I rode the last three days (210 miles plus) this year – but my husband and son rode the whole week (500 miles plus)  from Sioux City to Davenport (actually Moline, Illinois, where the Team Skunk bus was parked). Here’s the stuff I (and they) liked the best.

Most charming little overnight town: Eldora – beautiful courthouse and square; Storm Lake close runner up.

Best meal: pulled pork sandwiches at the Masonic Lodge in Wilton, Iowa (Day 7); runner up – Mexican restaurant in Storm Lake (Day 1) and Monica’s for pasta Bolognase in Coralville (Day 6); homemade glazed donuts from Bread Garden in Iowa City; the Skillet where we hunkered down during a rain storm in Mount Vernon (although still miss the Lincoln Cafe there).

Best homemade lemonade: Not the chemical stuff – lemons, sugar, water. outside Moscow, Iowa

Best ice cream: the The Outside Scoop (food truck from Indianola and visits Des Moines weekly!) Best flavor: lemonhead custard.

Best overheard comments:

“I’m kind of leaning towards Walker – he’s the governor of Wisconsin”

“Great shirt – I’m tired of looking at all these bike jerseys” (someone praising my son’s Kafka shirt)

“I used to think this guy I work with from Iowa was such a nice guy. Now I realize after being here he’s not that exceptional.”

Toughest ride/but most gorgeous scenery: Day 5 from Cedar Rapids to Coralville (via Mount Vernon, Lisbon, Coralville Dam.)

Most memorable shower: Cattle wash at the Hardin County Fairgrounds in Eldora.

Awesomely generous overnight hosts: Jim and Myrna in Cedar Rapids (great company, conversation, shower, dinner, bed, tour of revitalized NewBo area and beyond downtown)

Best beer garden: Back Pocket Brewery; runner up: Jackson Street Brewery in Sioux City

Eldora Iowa courthouse

Eldora Iowa courthouse

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Iowa, Iowa City

Casa de Oro/Perry (Iowa) and bike trail from Waukee to Perry

The bike trail between Waukee and Perry in Central Iowa is about 18 miles – long and straight, cutting through classic farm country, fields of rising green corn, the occasional abandoned see-through wooden barn, a smelly hog confinement operation and a smelly fertilizer plant, a pretty farmhouse surrounded by a white picket fence dotted with orange tiger lilies.  We rode in the late afternoon and early evening – returning just before 9 p.m., with the trail and the terrain all to ourselves. Or so it seemed. The light was stunning. A light breeze. Dragon flies whizzing around in front of us, hovering over the pavement. The sound of birds, frogs and crickets.

We stopped for a drink in the small town of Minburn at a depot that’s recently been turned into a little restaurant and then in Perry for dinner at Casa de Oro (after finding our usual Mexican place, Taco Villa, closed). Place was busy and the fajitas good. We’ll be back.

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Filed under Agritourism, bike trails, biking, Iowa