Category Archives: New York

Taughanock Falls, Ithaca Commons, Cornell, Forest Home, Aurora— exploring old Ithaca haunts

Late post: I set out on a gorgeous morning for the gorges…where else? They have always been my favorite landscape feature here. After a short drive down around the lake past downtown Ithaca, I was at the grand daddy of falls, high-falling Taughanock. It was an easy 20 minute there and 20 minutes back walk on the wide dirt path through the woods lining the flat rocks of the gorge, lined by high canyon walls. Lots of water crashing down on them there falls. I noticed that the beautiful old Taughanock Farms Inn, which I used to go to for a splurge dinner with my parents as a kid, is now the Inn at Taughanock. Still there, as is the Glenwood Pines, an old roadhouse along Route 89. Last time we went there about 20 years ago, the restaurant review I did of the Pines in 1980 was still tacked up on the knotty pine wall.

Nut ridge road (to the cottage @ the lake❤️)

As forewarned, the Ithaca Commons is rapidly being dwarfed by modern high-rise apartments which I gather are designed for wealthy foreign students and remote-location tech workers. Not good. There are still some old brick buildings along what was once a street, some with good little shops, including an excellent craft gallery with some very good local ceramics. Just south of the commons, I chanced upon an amazing shop that sells “not quite perfect” (NQP) Eileen Fisher clothing for a fraction of the original cost. We are talking dresses and jackets for $29, shirts and pants for $19. I cleaned up!

Myra at their cottage!

I did a quick drive through Collegetown, at the foot of the Cornell campus and saw that our old house at the bottom of steep Williams street is still standing, still beating the odds (and gravity). The suspension bridge over the gorge was closed (boo) so went onto the little hidden hamlet of Forest Home north of North Campus and sat on a flat rock, dipping my feet in the surprisingly warm water and watched somewhat wistfully the young kids riding the gently rushing water over the slippery flat rocks. Those days are over for me. Don’t need a third broken arm. I stopped briefly for a late light lunch (chicken soup) at the new general store in an old building in King Ferry and then drove a little further past lovely old white farmhouses and dairy farms high above Cayuga’s waters to check out Aurora, a sweet little town with some well-maintained old buildings (thanks to a philanthropist who went to Wells College there). Some businesses have closed sadly but still a pretty place. Didn’t make it to Mackenzie Child’s, the pricey home goods company based a mile north of Aurora.

Forest Home

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Robert Treman State Park, Ithaca Bakery, Bright Leaf Vineyard – Ithaca

Upper Treman gorge trail ❤️

(Late post…)

Fortunately I had my friend Tom to lend a hand, literally, when the gorge trail along the rushing waters between Upper and Lower Treman State Park got a little scary. After tripping on a tree root during a hike in the woods a year ago in Norway and breaking my arm, it is taking awhile to regain my confidence as a hiker.

Ithaca Bakery downtown

After our two-mile hike, we plunged into the ice cold water of the swimming hole at the base of a waterfall with white water crashing down the mossy rocks. So many memories of this place from childhood summers and college summers and summers with our kids. We almost didn’t get to swim because of inhospitable water conditions that closed the swimming area yesterday.

Blue green algae is the scare de jour on Cayuga Lake but no one has been able to adequately explain what the health risks are. And I have thoroughly enjoyed my late afternoons swimming in the lake which is warmer than the gorge pools but still very refreshing. Tonight myra and I went to a wine tasting at a new winery, Bright Leaf, just up the road. We listened to live music, sipped wine, nibbled on crostini and couscous,and admired the sunset over the lake, an orange fireball slowing dropping into the pale blue water.

I also stopped for late lunch at the Ithaca Bakery downtown – the T-burg twist rules! (Tuna with avocado on brown bread,)

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sapsucker Woods/Ithaca and Francesca’s/Syracuse”

Maybe it’s because I am old enough to aspire to be a birder or maybe it’s that I never realized what a cool place an ornithology lab can be, but I was pleasantly surprised by my visit yesterday to The Cornell Ornithology lab at Sapsucker Woods. I arrived as a free lab tour was starting and it was great, about 18 visitors from all over (including a guy from Wales who mentioned living for a few years in Ottumwa, Iowa and loving it) and a very engaging guide who led us into the areas normally off bounds for visitors. We saw some very interesting stuffed birds, bird feet and bird wings in the specimens lab (or some such) and learned all kinds of interesting tidbits about the life and study of birds. (See Notes below) I also walked on one of the sawdust paths in the woods around the attractive modern lab building with a borrowed pair of binoculars (which an 8 year old girl tried to show me how to use) to try to find some noteworthy birds. Next trip I’d like to go on one of their early morning free guided bird walks on Saturday or Sunday.

Sapsucker Woods birding

We had another nice late afternoon by the lake, dinner at the picnic table and a last trip to Cream at the Top for Ice cream (bittersweet symphony and dark chocolate chip!) . Myra and I took a last (for me, this year) morning walk along the lake with her nice neighbor Heather and then it was time to say goodbye. No tears this time. Loved being with some of my favorite people in one of my favorite places and I’ll be back!

My friend Tom picked me up for a pleasant 1 hour 10 minute drive to a good restaurant in Syracuse called Francesca’s where I had lunch with my friend Cynthia. Great time catching up after two years of not seeing each other and good food too (antipasto salad, Italian wedding soup). Now at the Syracuse airport with what I hope is only a briefly delayed flight to DC.

Notes from Lab Tour:
ebirds, merlyn bird id
How to draw blood of a bird- from under wing
How to trap raptors (put live prey in trap)
If you heard the bird you saw it (ID by song/sound)
Mallard duck teeth (skull) to tear meat
Red tail hawk foot. Intense grip.
Grey hound hawk eats 30 rodents/rabbits per night…more during mating season?
Owls fly silently so rodent prey can’t hear them.
Other birds have amazing eyes to detect fish in water.
Sheer water hawk spends 90 percent of Time soaring in air. Land to eat and sit on water. Migrating birds sleep while flying.
Reynolds game farm In Ithaca breeds pheasants (game farm rd)
Can bring bird found hit by car on road to lab.
Bird net app to try to Id sounds. In beta. Hear bird sounds in wild and Id by phone. Swift recording box and record sounds and then grad students ID.
Ebird to crowd source population studies.
Technology to record bird sounds. First done at Stewart park. Hollywood. Macaulay library – crazy equipment to record rare bird songs and old field journals
Humans can make Pshishimg noise to communicate and lure curious birds 
lab motto: keep common birds common
Bird of prey movie

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Cascadilla Gorge, Fall Creek neighborhood, Gimme Coffee, collegetown bagels, cream at the top (again) — Ithaca

Continuing my Golden Oldies tour, I drove on another spectacular weather day to Ithaca’s Fall Creek neighborhood, with pretty old wooden houses sporting open porches, riotous gardens and shades of a hippie past. After a cuppa at Gimme Coffee (a visit to the bathroom to read the flyers tacked on the burlap covered bulletin board is a must) I walked up the stone path and steps lining the water falls and rushing water over flat rocks of Casadilla Gorge from downtown to Collegetown, where I stopped for lunch at the venerable (and still hopping) Collegetown Bagels for lunch and then next door Bear Necessities which sells Cornell and Ithaca gear.

I walked the trail further than I have in the past, into the woods behind the Engineering college. Less spectacular water features but more relaxing too. (No steep winding stone staircase.) I did notice nets under some gorge bridges, presumably to catch jumpers.

On the way back to the lake, I stopped at the Ithaca Bakery outpost in the odd Triphammer mall for bread for dinner. Nice to have. And I drove through the hidden hamlet of Ludlowville to see if anything was going on and was pleased to see that nothing was.

With my GPS turned off, yes off, I drove a lovely backroad north, over a few one lane metal bridges spanning creeks (salmon creek rd) and then west (the aptly named Hill Road, that turned into the now-familiar Atwater Road, just north of “the cottage.”)

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Ithaca, my Ithaca

I am so thrilled to be back in my favorite place in the world, certainly my sentimental favorite. Ithaca is so full of memories that go back to my childhood when my parents– who met in Ithaca in college and loved this place — took my siblings and me here as kids to Cornell alumni university for a week each summer during the 1970s.

Then there were my own college years here (1977-1981) and then the wonderful summers I spent in the 1990s and early 2000’s with my husband and kids and my dear former college roommates.

After a 10 year absence, I’m back in a sweet cottage high above Cayuga’s waters that our dear friends now own, near the cottages we rented for several summers. Love it! We went to some of my touchstones- the Ithaca Farmers Market, Wegmans (best super market) and cream at the top (best ice cream stand cut into a cornfield: tonight’s flavors White lightening; Guatemalan Ripple).

And I feel particularly fortunate to be here because I almost ended up in Buffalo, a last minute possible diversion after fog hampered our initial landing at Tompkins County airport. our flight almost got diverted to Buffalo at the last minute.

Cayuga Lake sunset

As we were preparing to land the plane suddenly seemed to be on the slowest landing possible . The pilot finally told us the fog had reached a level that did not permit landing so we were circling the airport in hopes it would clear. If it didn’t clear in 15 minutes we would be diverted to buffalo. (Why buffalo and not somewhere closer like Syracuse?) anyway we finally landed in the dark and still foggy night. Couldn’t be happier to see my old pals!!!

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For my next trip to DUMBO (in NYC’s Brooklyn)

I’ve long been curious about Brooklyn’s Dumbo neighborhood but the few times I’ve walked under the Brooklyn Bridge to explore it, I wasn’t sure if I’d really found it. (DUMBO actually stands for down under the Manhattan Bridge overpass.” It’s the area between the two bridges and a few blocks east of the Manhattan Bridge.) So this recent walking tour of Dumbo offered by the NYTimes may some day come in handy. See below:

The Dumbo neighborhood of Brooklyn, once warehouses and longshoremen, is now hot and hip. On an itinerary inspired by The New York Times and conducted by Urban Adventures, discover one of the most fascinating neighborhoods in the city, including some spots off the tourist trail. Catch the ferry from Manhattan and have an experience that combines local sights with hands-on and exclusive access.

New York Times Exclusives:

  • Tour the Smile to Go bakery with a staff member to watch pastries being made and taste them fresh out of the oven.
  • Pour your own beer at Randolph Beer, where the beer is also made.
  • Meet the staff at innovative places like Powerhouse Arena and the Brooklyn Roasting Company.

Trip Highlights:

  • Travel like a local on the commuter ferry from Manhattan to Brooklyn.
  • Visit Brooklyn Bridge Park, built partly on old shipping piers, and get breathtaking views of the Manhattan skyline.
  • Learn the history of Brooklyn’s waterfront and how it has transformed from industrial to recreational.
  • Try the offerings at some of the neighborhood’s favorite local food creators and businesses.
  • Feel the vibe that has attracted artists, innovators and tech companies and revitalized the neighborhood.

Schedule Details

Duration: 3 hours

Meeting point: Entrance of Pier 11 just east of South Street and Gouverneur Lane, underneath the F.D.R. Drive in Manhattan

Starting time: 9:00 a.m.

Ending point: Randolph Beer

RESERVE

Duration

3 hours

Cost

$99 USD

Maximum Group Size

12 people

Activity Level

Easier

Questions?

Terms & Conditions

Terms & Conditions

Days of Departure

Tour operates daily

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Hour 1: Views of Manhattan and Brooklyn

Meet in Manhattan and hop the commuter ferry for a short ride across the East River to Brooklyn, with great views of the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. Land in Dumbo, named not for the elephant, but because it is “down under the Manhattan Bridge overpass.” Long home to shipping piers and industrial warehouses, this charming and historic neighborhood is now one of the most desirable in Brooklyn because of its access to the waterfront, breathtaking views and historic architecture. Walk through Brooklyn Bridge Park, built largely on those old piers, to learn how the waterfront changed from a source of food to a thriving industrial area (where entrepreneurs did everything from process tobacco to create the first cardboard boxes) to an unsafe abandoned slum to what it is today: a beautiful park for recreation and home to modern businesses. Stop at Jane’s Carousel, from a 1920s amusement park. It was purchased by a local artist who restored it, and a glass-enclosed ride offers a view of modern Manhattan from a historic perch.

At the Empire Stores, you’ll see the latest transformation. This brick warehouse block is believed to be the first place coffee was commercially roasted and processed, but was abandoned for many years as shipping moved elsewhere. Now, it has been revived as a community space with shops, cafes and restaurants, rotating art exhibits and an outpost of the Brooklyn Historical Society. Take in the panorama of Manhattan from a secret viewpoint, then head to the Smile to Go, a spinoff of a popular downtown restaurant, the Smile. See where all the pastries are made, watching the bakers at work as you hear about the process. Then sample an array of creative, chef-driven pastries fresh from the oven.

Hour 2: Layers of History

Walk down the old cobblestone streets to see more of the old warehouses and factories that have been converted into lofts, restaurants and art galleries. Stop at Powerhouse Arena. It’s a bookstore specializing in books on art and photography, but is also a space for art exhibitions and literary events, including book readings, launch parties and panel discussions. Meet a manager to talk about the community activities that happen here, and about the literary and art communities that inspire and visit the space.

Pass under the Manhattan Bridge archway and into another part of the neighborhood to visit the Brooklyn Roasting Company. It is housed in an old building that was part of the historic Arbuckle’s Coffee company, whose roasted coffee was a favorite of cowboys for years. Brooklyn Roasting has brought the coffee tradition back to the waterfront. Learn about their history and how it ties into the neighborhood’s past. Of course, sample some of coffee, which is curated and blended from beans from all over the world.

Hour 3: The New Brooklyn

Head farther into Dumbo and learn about the growing start-up and tech world in the neighborhood. Stop for a quick bite at Untamed Sandwiches, which uses sustainable and local food for its braised meat and vegetables. You might stop instead at CUPER, an unassuming cafe inside the Made in NY Media Center, a co-working space and incubator where you can usually find artists discussing projects and business people making deals. Finally, stop at the hidden gem of Randolph Beer. Craft brewing is all the rage, but the Randolph goes it one better and serves its beer where it’s made. Learn about the growing craft beer scene in Brooklyn, and pull your own beer from the tap. (You can’t get much more local than that.) End the tour sipping your beer and reflecting on how far Brooklyn has come, yet how close it remains to its roots.

 

Tour Inclusions: Local English-speaking guide, pastry, coffee, gourmet sandwich, pour your own beer, ferry ticket.

Tour Exclusions: Additional food and drinks, souvenirs and personal shopping, gratuities for your guide.

Children: No age limit. This is a child-friendly tour. Children between the ages of 6 and 11 inclusively are permitted on this tour at the rate listed above. Please select ‘child’ when booking. Children under the age of 6 are permitted to join this tour free of charge. Please inform us at the time of booking if you’ll be bringing a child under the age of 6. You can do so in the special request box on the checkout page.

 

 

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Fluffy pancakes we spotted in Tokyo in 2016 have arrived in the U.S. What next? A new kind of ice coffee maybe?

In July 2016, we were intrigued in an Tokyo coffee cafe to see Japanese people eating fluffy pancakes as an afternoon treat. Now comes work that those pancakes (apparently known as “souffle pancakes”) have come to NYC, Pasadena, LA and London, according to the NYTimes.

What next? I predict a new kind of ice coffee that we also saw in Tokyo circa 2016 — details below!

July 2016: At about 4 pm we stopped at a chic coffee cafe called 24/7 where people we eating stacks of fluffy pancakes. It didn’t occur to us to eat them any time other than for breakfast but must say they looked delicious. My ice coffee was served in a ceramic soup bowl with a giant block of ice and a little pitchers of milk and simple syrup. Made iced coffee quite exotic. Must try that at home.

 

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Wandering downtown – NYC

3E2B0234-9648-432F-9637-74D07EFB5A27I got a chance to do what I love to do most in NYC (besides seeing old friends and family): Wandering around interesting pockets of the city.

One day, I started at the Bleeker Street subway station and stopped for what turned out to be a giant breakfast at Russ & Daughters Cafe. (I took about half of my eggs/onion/lox and salad to go and left it at Union Square, hoping a hungry person would eat it…) D and I then wandered around the Lower East Side up to the East Village and ended up at Union Square and the holiday crafts market, where I also found some mutsu apples at the farmer’s market.

The second day, I started at the Spring Street station and wandered south into Little Italy and Chinatown, then a little west to Soho (western section is still charming, along Thompson and Sullivan/Spring and  Prince Streets) and then up to Greenwich Village/NYC, stopping for a nutritious lunch (not) of a chocolate chip cookie and coffee at the wonderful old Vesuvio bakery storefront on Prince Street (now technically the Birdbath Bakery despite the iconic storefront from the 1920s) and admiring a gated mews lined with pretty old carriage houses, MacDougal Alley,  just north of Washington Square Park. Reminded me, fondly, of London. I lingered in front of 1 Fifth Avenue, an elegant old building where my parents got married (when it was a hotel, I believe). Then I ended up at The Strand bookstore and at Union Square where I caught the #6 subway back to the Upper East Side.

Noshing on the Upper East Side included a delicious perfectly cooked (medium rare) half pound hamburger at EJ’s Luncheonette and kreplach soup and a corned beef sandwich (shared) at P.J. Bernstein’s. 

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Library book sale, Sip n’soda – Southampton,NY/Wainscott Beach

On the Saturday after Thanksgiving in Water Mill, we made our annual visit to the amazing book sale at the Southampton Public Library where often newly released books can be found for a fraction of their original cost.

Then for something new, seven of us crammed into a wooden booth at Sip n’Soda, the local soda fountain (since 1958) for some no frills food that was pretty good including crisp onion rings, good malts and shakes and a decent BLT and burger. We liked the old fashioned no frills vibe, the long counter, the booths.

We also had a lovely walk along the beach in Wainscott, a three minute walk from the sweet cottage where we stayed this year (my favorite of the many borrowed digs we have stayed at out here). The weather finally warmed, the sun was out and we walked to nearby Georgica Pond.

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NYC Restaurant hopping in the Village —Prune, The Spotted Pig, Snack Taverna

Outside Snack Taverna, West Village

I have wanted to eat at the tiny East Village restaurant Prune ever since I read Blood, Bones and Butter, the well-written, compelling memoir by Gabrielle Hamilton, the owner/chef of Prune. Yesterday I finally did and loved it. My pal Myra and I may need to make this the annual dining spot at the end of our much-cherished post-Thanksgiving rendezvous. The food was outstanding — unique and memorable without being fussy or out there — and the service was welcoming, warm and attentive. Did we want bread to sop up the one or two spoonful left of our mussel and leek stew? our server inquired. Yes. Please.

Prune, at last

We arrived when it opened for dinner at 5:30 (Myra had an early train to catch) and the place was empty but it soon started filling up and we were glad we made a last minute reservation. Soon the dozen or so tables were full and single people sat comfortably at the bar.  Several customers seemed to be regulars and were greeted by name or even a kiss by wait staff.  Felt like a neighborhood handout. Myra and I shared everything (except her martini and my beer): creamy white parsley root soup with a flavor-packed piece of crispy chicken skin; fried oysters with a white creamy herb sauce; the light and delicious stew; a side of crispy grilled onions and garlic, and for dessert a rectangular “crouton” topped with a light caramel sauce and a scoop of ricotta ice cream. We will be back.

Earlier during our wander around the West Village, we stopped for a drink at another tiny restaurant, The Spotted Pig, that has long been on my list, run by another female chef, April Bloomfield. At 4 p.m. the bar was full, as were a few tables. Cheerful cozy place. The menu is more English fare, somewhat pricey but hope to return. We ate a light lunch at Snack Taverna, which was surprisingly good considering that we just stumbled in, lured by little beyond an empty table (actually all the tables were empty, which usually is uninviting).  This place seemed to be doing an good take out business.  We had good solid Greek-with-an-earthy-flair food:  a light country Greek salad (no lettuce; a slab of fresh feta) and spinach feta leek triangles.  Myra had a yummy egg atop polenta with a delicious light sauce. Around the block we found Westville, the restaurant I am always looking for but I can never remember the name or street. Glad to try something new.

Spotted pig

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