Great day. Fantastic breakfast on the third floor terrace of our funky hip hotel, then we took a taxi to the western end of the # 28 tram to secure a seat the entire route though the city. Not to be missed! Great to rumble through the narrow streets and hills past pastel-colored facades and the occasional faded tile facade.
We found a cute cafe Pois Cafe for a light lunch (sardine crumble) near the cathedral, then we wandered up and down the hills of Alfama, the charming 18th century post-earthquake neighborhood with terraces looking out across the red tiled roofs to the river in the distance. A highlight was the Menino Deus church, which we happened upon on the very first day it was open to the public. (It used to be FNO…for nuns only). Didn’t look like much from the outside — a flat stone facade but inside, stunning baroque church with intricate marble and tile and trompe d’oille paint work. We didn’t go onto the castle grounds but walked around the little hillside village beside it and stumbled upon a great little cafe that replicated a tram inside and had surprisingly good pastries, ice cream and quiche.
Another tram ride (our 3 day Lisbon card was a good investment) and another walk near the theater where we sampled some cherry liquor and then walked past the fabulous Art Deco Edens theatre, where people were hanging out on the top near the fantastic glass towers. This city has such charm and verve!