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More good things in Des Moines – Akebono (sushi), new Farmers Market vendors, spiffed up Graziano Mkt, new East Village places

New improved Graziano’s meat counter, DSM

Good stuff keeps coming to Des Moines and this longtime resident remains thankful. Even Graziano’s, the old Italian specialty store on the south side has spiffed up with some major remodeling – and is now surrounded by new apartment complexes.

I didn’t think we’d have many people to watch as we ate on the patio at Akebono, a Japanese restaurant with good sushi, in downtown Des Moines last Saturday night but the streets were hopping. Part of it had to do with a food truck event  nearby at the Des Moines Social Club, some Kentucky Derby partygoers, some Prom kids and a crowd at the restaurant Malo but it still amazes me to see so much happening in a once obscure corner of downtown. We enjoyed Akebono’s food and service too (although the poke didn’t resemble the kind I’ve enjoyed in places like Hawaii and LA.)

The farmers market opened to a huge crowd (the weather was gorgeous) and I was pleased to see new vendors such as 5 Borough Bagels from Clive and Scenic Route Bakery from the East Village. The new HyVee also  fit right in, which is a relief. People on the HyVee patio were eating what looked like good brunch entrees including French Toast.

We stopped at Zombie Burger during a bike ride and were a bit disappointed by their new recipe for fries and the cranberry-Gorgonzola salad. We preferred the less crunchy fries and the salad with a less sweet dressing and bacon (although Zombie kindly added bacon to our salad anyway). Sitting on the patio, we took note of all the new buildings surrounding us, which makes the place feel more urban and busy, including the AC Hotel which has what we’ve been told is a great rooftop bar.

On the Great Western Trail, we were relieved to see that the changes in the trail to accommodate the Microsoft server plant and a highway near Orilla have not messed up our favorite trail. Also pleased to see that the pub Outskirtz looked more open for passing bikers on a Sunday than I’ve seen in the past.

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“Bad” (Malo) restaurant opening in Des Moines

Chef George Formaro is opening new reaturant Malo

Pleased to read that restauranteur extraordinaire George Formaro (Zombie Burger, Centro, Django, Gateway et. al) is opening yet another restaurant in Des Moines, this one serving nuevo Latina” fare and called Malo, the Spanish word for “Bad” (but more bad-cool then bad-bad). “It’s going to be at the greatl old former firehouse downtown that’s becoming the new home base for the Des Moines Social Club.
He’ll be offering two things I used to think I’d find in Des Moines – a Pisco Sour (which we grew fond of last November during a trip to, where else, Peru) and “a late night menu.” (When I first moved here in 1990, it used to depress the heck out of me that I couldn’t find a decent place to eat on a Saturday night at 9 p.m. after a movie – I’ll be forever indebted to Chat Noir, now closed alas, for changing that!) The menu will reportedly include nachos mac and cheese (which doesn’t appeal to me) but also carnitas (which I happened to serve tonight to my family, using a fantastic NYTimes recipe I found years ago).
The pork carnitas torta is a sandwich of carnitas, cheese, refried beans and onions in a red chile sauce, served on South Union torta bread.
The fried shrimp tacos are served with shredded cabbage, pico de gallo, avocado and lime.

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How good bread and coffee revived Des Moines’ food scene!!

Des Moines restaurateur/entrepreneur George Formaro samples a challah loaf as he displays the many types of artisan breads that are made at his South Union Bakery, which is located in the basement of the Gateway Market, 2002 Woodland Ave.

Interesting story today by Jennifer Miller, who has been doing a terrific job of covering the burgeoning food and dining scene in Des Moines and Iowa, about the advent and progress of artisanal bread making in Des Moines since the 1990’s.

My theory – – not yet substantiated but that hasn’t stopped me from sharing it with many a visitor and newcomer to DSM  — is  that finally getting excellent bread and coffee ushered good food/dining into Des Moines. The restaurant/grocery store scene was pretty dismal when my husband (then boyfriend, I guess)  arrived here in 1990 but the emergence of not only decent bread (Pain Pane) but later terrific bread (South Union), as well as good coffee/coffee houses (even before Starbucks) gradually led to better places to eat and shop and finally find things like a good cheese selection.

George Formaro (the South Union guy)  first made sandwiches and soup to sell with his bread at little shop behind the Register (that I visited almost daily when I was a Register reporter during the 1990s) and then onto pizza and one restaurant after another and, of course, Gateway Market. It was interesting to learn from Jennifer’s story that George’s quest to perfect the burger bun  led to George’s latest successful restaurant, Zombie Burger in Des Moines’s East Village. (I rest my case.)  I’ve watched the Logsdons’ progress (most recently with the terrific La Mie Restaurant in the Roosevelt Shopping Center) in a somewhat similar fashion.

Of course, work remains – DSM still needs a decent bagel!

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James Beard semi-finalists in Des Moines: from Baru 66, Gateway/Zombie, etc, Proof

The James Beard Foundation knowns how to pick’em based on the chefs chosen as Midwest semi-finalists in a contest some say is akin to the Oscars (not so sure about that…):

They are: David Baruthio of Baru 66 in Windsor Heights (which I consider our area’s best restaurant) for outstanding chef – along with Sean Wilson at Proof (which I haven’t visited since it changed owners); and George Formaro in the Best Restauranteur category for his groundbreaking (for Des Moines) restaurants/food – Centro, Gateway Market, Zombie Burger, Django.

George, in my view, deserves a medal for making Des Moines a place worth eating in – by bringing in a succession of crucial things that were sadly missing when I arrived here 23 years ago 1) outstanding bread (ciabatta! focaccia!) 2) one of the first good new happening restaurants in the new revived downtown, which  paved the way for others 3) a world class cheese selection in the city’s first real gourmet market 4) a fun, affordable hipster burger joint 5) a lively french restaurant.

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Power dining in Des Moines – really? If Time – Lifers insist…..

http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2013-02-15/where-to-power-lunch-in-des-moines#r=hpt-ls

I have friends who work at Time Life publications in NYC who are no doubt very excited at the prospect of moving to Des Moines if there is some sort of merger with Des Moines-based Meredith Corp. NOT. But should it come to that – and it’s not clear that it will – Business week has an amusing story about where to power dine in Des Moines. Frankly I think that’s an oxymoron. People don’t power dine here – that I’m aware of – which is one of the city’s many charms. I could add a few other places to their list…if people just want a good lunch rather than face time.

For what it’s worth – here’s the story below. I disagree on a few points: (although I don’t power dine, especially at lunch. I have been to most of these places, most often for dinner. And I’m not a power broker…)

– Zombie Burger is a fun Hipster burger joint – and almost anti-power dining. Unless you consider pink-haired tattooed boys and girls to be power brokers.

– Alba’s waitstaff is not surly – in my limited experience. Try the guiness shortribs (at dinner at least).

– The Centro and Embassy Club write-ups are the most dead-on

–  For power brokers, I’d add 801 Grand Steakhouse – has that stuffy clubby old white guys with cigars feel, not exactly the hip magazine crowd.

New York’s publishing industry has dined out on lavish expense accounts across Midtown Manhattan for decades. But for the legions of workers at Time Inc., the largest magazine publisher in America, the institution of the “power lunch” may soon experience a stark change of scenery, should Meredith Corp. (MDP) purchase most of Time Inc.’s magazines from Time Warner (TWX) and relocate the operations to Meredith’s headquarters in Des Moines.

For those new to Des Moines’s dining scene, here’s a handy guide.

1. Centro

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: Three dishes with “New York” in the name

Funky Decor: A former Masonic Temple

Liquid Lunch: $2 up-charge for hard liquor served “neat.” Where have we heard this before?

Sample Menu Item: Buttermilk Fried Chicken Salad, $15.50

Diner Online Review: “The waiter dude definitely showed some professionalism.”

Power Table: “Undoubtedly table 49,” says Centro co-founder and partner Paul Rottenberg. The corner four-top banquette “provides equal parts privacy and an ideal vantage point to scan the main dining room.” The table’s prime location makes it “enviable for any mover and shaker.”Courtesy Centro

2. Des Moines Embassy Club

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: Must be a member to dine here

Funky Decor: 101-year-old chandeliers

Liquid Lunch: Martinis made with fresh ingredients from herb gardens surrounding the restaurant

Sample Menu Item: Lobster Spaghetti, $17

Diner Online Review: The first rule of Embassy Club is that nobody talks (online) about Embassy Club

Power Table: Three “Say Yes” tables, which according to culinary director Michael LaValle are usually occupied by “the president of the bank downstairs, the lead counsel at a local law firm, and the retired head of an insurance company.”

3. Alba Restaurant

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: Notoriously slow and surly waitstaff

Funky Decor: Doors suspended from the ceiling

Sample Menu Item: Duck Terrine & Fried Egg sandwich, $7.50

Diner Online Review: “Salt is not a flavor like everywhere else we ate.”

Power Table: “Um … I guess you could sit near the window,” says owner Jason Simon. “You can see the Capitol Building. That’s kinda cool.”

4. Django Restaurant

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: iPad drink menu

Funky Decor: Midwestern French

Liquid Lunch: Absinthe cocktail

Sample Menu Item: “Le Cheeseburger,” $9.99

Diner Online Review: “OMG bacon syrup … you MUST try.”

Power Table: The “Wine Alcove” is a prominent spot, says general manager Mike Crownover. “You’ve got the wine shelving area on one side of your table, and windows on the other. It’s windows and wine. It’s very popular for business lunches.”

5. Zombie Burger

Helping New Yorkers Feel at Home: “Dead Moines” burger a punny reminder that you now live in the middle of nowhere.

Funky Decor: Zombie wall murals

Liquid Lunch: Milkshake spiked with booze

Sample Menu Item: “We’re Coming to Get You Barbara” grilled cheese, $11.79

Diner Online Review: “The staff is pretty hot” (not that it matters or anything).

Power Table: Chef and co-owner George Formaro recommends one of only two communal tables in the center of the dining room. “Their prominent location and bar height makes them the most visible and hard-to-get seats in the restaurant,” he says.

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Talented team to feed masses at DSM’s Riverwalk soon. walking tours too.

Good to hear that the talented Lisa and Michael LaValle will team up with talented George Formaro to run the food stand at the Hub Spot along Des Moines’ Principal Riverwalk , off Court Avenue west of the river, starting this April. The food sounds equally promising – with locally-sourced items like LaQuercia prosciutto, Maytag Cheese and Zanzibar coffee to be sold, not to mention a “Zombie Burger” cart – a spin off of Formaro’s popular East Village restaurant. Lisa has been the longtime chef at the Des Moines Art Center and is an all round nice person. (Our kids went to school together.) Here’s more info from the Des Moines Register! And here’s hoping the Riverwalk becomes as popular as Gray’s Lake with outdoor enthusiasts. We regularly ride our bikes on a trail through both – now we’ll have a new place to get a snack downtown.

The Hub Spot at the Principal Riverwalk, which is nearing completion, is on the west side of the river, near the Polk County office building.

The Hub Spot at the Principal Riverwalk, on the west side of the river, near the Polk County office building.

And what’s this about Carl Voss, another person we’ve known for decade, offering walking tours of downtown Des Moines in the spring? And kayaking on the Raccoon River?

The Des Moines Art Center

 

 

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Trying some new Des Moines restaurants – Host, Tartine, Zombie Burger

Sitting inside Host, a new restaurant in downtown Des Moines near the public library, is a bit like being inside a Meredith magazine shoot – as the friend I was eating with, a former Meredith employee, remarked. Clean, open, space, cute mismatched white shabby chic wooden chairs at metal tables, pretty little mural of birds and the phrase  “Excuse me while I kiss the sky” (a lyric to the Jimi Hendrix song Purple Haze,  that’s been misheard by many a listener as “excuse me while I kiss this guy”).  It’s a nice addition to the downtown dining scene, albeit a bit pricey (even if it offers locally-sourced fresh ingredients) – $10 for sandwich and a side. I had the excellent KPLT  Rye Panini with (Iowa producer)  La Quercia’s Tamworth  prosciutto, leeks, tomatoes & Gruyere on excellent hearty wheat bread toast. My friend had a very tasty curried-chicken salad made with big chunks of real chicken, yellow raisins and nuts served on a brioche which she was pleased to find wasn’t sweet.

 La Quercia Logo

I finally tried Zombie Burger, eating on the carry-out side of the outdoor patio and I thought the place was fun and the food okay. I had the Zombie Burger – just a basic cheeseburger with the American cheese (not my fav) and zombie sauce (spruced-up Russian Dressing from what I could tell.) My husband had a double patty burger with blue cheese and carmelized onion. Even better. It’s basically a fast food burger in a less fast-food setting. (For a great burger – and one that’s prepared to my specifications, i.e. rare – I’ll still go to Star Bar on Ingersoll Ave. in Des Moines.) I had heard some rumblings about the bad fries at Zombie Burger. Not true – in my view. The fries were great – too great, actually.

I also tried Tartine in Clive again – was impressed again but still wish it was in a different location, with less of a suburban strip-mall vibe, and was open past 8 p.m. for dinner (so I could try the burgers and frites, which look really good).  I had a very rich spinach and bacon quiche (which I could eat only half of) and my friend had what looked like a light fluffy “Garden omelet” with arugula, portobello mushrooms and chevre. Both entrees came with a choice of side for $8. A small selection of elegant baked goods for dessert looked delicious.

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